Unfinished MBW 16610

[d4m.test]

Hi,

I'm still not done with modding my MBW but I can't wait to share some photos so you get more informed about choosing your sub.

The piece is an TTK MBW. The bezel insert is very hard to mod because the bay is shallow so you have to mill the insert very thin and it's very easy to screw up when you have to get it very thin. Here's the list of mods:
- bezel is from an older MBW 16610 which will return back there. The current TTK MBW doesn't have a bezel this nice. Sorry to say that. But it ain't bad. This one's teeth are absolutely gorgeous and so close to gen.
- bezel insert (not glued down yet) is a gen which will be tossed (pearl will be kept) 'cause I accidentally flattened it so it's showing a bit too much crystal. The worst thing is I can't get it to sit recessed in the bezel properly. $100+ for a pearl. Such is life of a modder.
- CGs reshaped. It used to be the top one is longer than the bottom one. CGs didn't use to have a breakline.
- noobmariner dial and movement from a TW Best and therefore a TW Best datewheel. I'm too lazy to put on a noobmariner datewheel overlay which will make it better. The MBW datewheel is a joke.
- longer second hand installed
- dial and hands superlumed by Joe.

The beauty of this watch is the deep and thick rehaut, crystal height and bevel <= current version is lower and bevel less slanted therefore more correct, thick bezel, and sharp long bezel teeth. You are really paying for these things.

Still some ways to go.

-bk

 

[malumouse]

NICE

so far so good..impressive as usual......I like the longer second hand..nice!!!

 

[reeseg]

I'm going to follow you down this road. My MBW 16610 shows up tomorrow (got Boston's on a trade). Would love a parts list (like where you sourced the longer second hand).

One question though which confuses me. You state...one of the things we're paying for is the MBW sharp long bezel teeth. But you replaced your bezel with an older version??? Shouldn't it read... your really paying for rehaut, crystal height and crystal bevel?

Also, you don't mention the mid-link issue with the MBW bracelet.

My parts list for a new MBW looks like this:

1) TW Best - extract movement
2) Noobmariner - extract the dial and date wheel (and I'm going to add ... bracelet)
3) Purchase bezel insert/pearl from Watch Material (I'm thinking about ordering a couple so I can practice thinning the bezel insert) or gen off the bay.
4) Longer second hand (part from unknown doner )

Tools required:

1) Dremel tool for CG shaping (can you add which wheels you used for shaping and polishing?)

Services required:

1) Superlume (can you clarify whether a C1/C3 mix or C1...)



Thanks for this thread. I completely agree that this watch is the ultimate platform to build the perfect sub rep.

 

[Rollex]

Holly Crap what a beauty! well done [smilie=love7.gif]

 

[Rollex]

oh and how is the case back on this bad boy?

 

[007]

BK, how's the coronet on the clasp of these new MBW watches? Can you take a picture?
Well done so far. Congrats.

 

[rckh]

IMHO, I found that the main flaw at this moment are Bezel Insert & the Day-fonts....
Lookinf forward your mod & update!

RCKH

 

[jiro]

looks freaken good to me! awesome work BK!~ :wink:

 

[treeman]

Looks super nice!!

Couple questions...which bracelet did you switch too (the solid midlinks gotta go on mine) and did the bracelet pop right on or need any mods to fit? I ask because I have tried the bracelets from a couple of my other subs and they don't seem to fit.

Also, why are you using the movement from a TW best? I was planning to just grab the whole movement/dial/hands from a noob? Will it not work?

Thanks!!

 

[d4m.test]

@treeman: the bracelet is an old noobmariner bracelet which needs polishing. I haven't fully fitted it in the pics because it's a pain to do it. It'll fit without mod. The springbars need to bend a little but so do the stock bracelet springbars. I use the movement from the TW Best for no particular reason. It's the same 2836. I fitted a noobmariner dial to it earlier and the datewheel is good enough so I just got lazy and of course don't want to risk scratching the beautifully super-lumed dial and hands (by Joe). The datewheel overlay can be better with a noobmariner one. But it's good enough. I'm really not that picky like most people think

Another good news is the cyclop mag on the TTK MBW isn't over or not too much over. I got too used to the GMT2 and EXP2 so I felt it had too much mag. When I checked my coworkers' gens (2 sobs have them at work), the mag on subs is noticeably higher than that on the GMTs and EXP2. I always knew it but now am sure of the magnitude.

On the insert, I received one jewelryoutlet black insert now. It has the correct diameter and slope that match those of the TTK MBW bezel. I will put the gen pearl on it and change this watch back to its stock bezel instead of stealing from the old case MBW. Stay tuned.

-bk

 

[d4m.test]

BK, how's the coronet on the clasp of these new MBW watches? Can you take a picture?
Well done so far. Congrats.

I'm changing to a noobmariner bracelet. I'll take pics of both the noobmariner clasp and stock clasp.

-bk

 

[d4m.test]

I temporarily used the old MBW's bezel because I didn't have a insert that will fit the bezel (I ruined the stock insert and I don't like the high gloss finish on it. It stands out too fake). The current MBW bezel isn't as nice but still beats most other sub's bezels. People dump on this watch's quality. But let me tell you when it comes to what matters, the particular part's quality is very good, e.g. the bezel teeth are all even. You don't get one that is larger than another. About the bracelet (mid-link issue), I'm changing it to a noobmariner bracelet.

My recommend part list:
1. ETA noobmariner dial+hands+movement, take the whole unit <= that takes care of the shorter second hand, bad datewheel overlay and of course the inferior dial
2. noobmariner bracelet
3. jewelryout insert => except the pearl, this insert has the right size, right slope and most of all right finish, not too glossy. The numbers are excellent. Extremely close to gen. You really can't get a better insert (not considering the pearl). You might want to get a couple 'cause like I said it's easy to screw up. Good thing it's only $15 shipped.
4. watchmaterial pearl: just extract the pearl from the insert. People told me there's no pearl listed on the site

Tools:
1. don't use a dremel for the insert. use a flat needle file. takes time but very low risk.
2. don't use a dremel for CGs. again use needle files.
3. 600 grit sand paper and polishing papers (you can get them from OFREI. Call them) from 30 micron, 15, 9, 6, 3, 2, 1 and lastly cape cod to finish the CGs (just the feet, not the portion before the brealine, that should be brushed) to a high mirror polish.
4. masking tape to protect the tube if you don't remove while reshaping CGs. I totally removed the tube because I want to finish the CGs better and also want to move the crown closer to the bezel therefore need to sand the bottom of the U of the CGs down. Take out less than 1mm.

Superlume:
1. Joe used C1. But Kent (I think that's his name) from Everest said C1/C3 in 3:1 raito can give maximum brightness while maintaining the white color in daylight.

-bk

I'm going to follow you down this road. My MBW 16610 shows up tomorrow (got Boston's on a trade). Would love a parts list (like where you sourced the longer second hand).

One question though which confuses me. You state...one of the things we're paying for is the MBW sharp long bezel teeth. But you replaced your bezel with an older version??? Shouldn't it read... your really paying for rehaut, crystal height and crystal bevel?

Also, you don't mention the mid-link issue with the MBW bracelet.

My parts list for a new MBW looks like this:

1) TW Best - extract movement
2) Noobmariner - extract the dial and date wheel (and I'm going to add ... bracelet)
3) Purchase bezel insert/pearl from Watch Material (I'm thinking about ordering a couple so I can practice thinning the bezel insert) or gen off the bay.
4) Longer second hand (part from unknown doner )

Tools required:

1) Dremel tool for CG shaping (can you add which wheels you used for shaping and polishing?)

Services required:

1) Superlume (can you clarify whether a C1/C3 mix or C1...)



Thanks for this thread. I completely agree that this watch is the ultimate platform to build the perfect sub rep.

 

[reeseg]

This is just what I was looking for. Will start putting the parts orders together.

Reese

I temporarily used the old MBW's bezel because I didn't have a insert that will fit the bezel (I ruined the stock insert and I don't like the high gloss finish on it. It stands out too fake). The current MBW bezel isn't as nice but still beats most other sub's bezels. People dump on this watch's quality. But let me tell you when it comes to what matters, the particular part's quality is very good, e.g. the bezel teeth are all even. You don't get one that is larger than another. About the bracelet (mid-link issue), I'm changing it to a noobmariner bracelet.

My recommend part list:
1. ETA noobmariner dial+hands+movement, take the whole unit <= that takes care of the shorter second hand, bad datewheel overlay and of course the inferior dial
2. noobmariner bracelet
3. jewelryout insert => except the pearl, this insert has the right size, right slope and most of all right finish, not too glossy. The numbers are excellent. Extremely close to gen. You really can't get a better insert (not considering the pearl). You might want to get a couple 'cause like I said it's easy to screw up. Good thing it's only $15 shipped.
4. watchmaterial pearl: just extract the pearl from the insert. People told me there's no pearl listed on the site

Tools:
1. don't use a dremel for the insert. use a flat needle file. takes time but very low risk.
2. don't use a dremel for CGs. again use needle files.
3. 600 grit sand paper and polishing papers (you can get them from OFREI. Call them) from 30 micron, 15, 9, 6, 3, 2, 1 and lastly cape cod to finish the CGs (just the feet, not the portion before the brealine, that should be brushed) to a high mirror polish.
4. masking tape to protect the tube if you don't remove while reshaping CGs. I totally removed the tube because I want to finish the CGs better and also want to move the crown closer to the bezel therefore need to sand the bottom of the U of the CGs down. Take out less than 1mm.

Superlume:
1. Joe used C1. But Kent (I think that's his name) from Everest said C1/C3 in 3:1 raito can give maximum brightness while maintaining the white color in daylight.

-bk

I'm going to follow you down this road. My MBW 16610 shows up tomorrow (got Boston's on a trade). Would love a parts list (like where you sourced the longer second hand).

One question though which confuses me. You state...one of the things we're paying for is the MBW sharp long bezel teeth. But you replaced your bezel with an older version??? Shouldn't it read... your really paying for rehaut, crystal height and crystal bevel?

Also, you don't mention the mid-link issue with the MBW bracelet.

My parts list for a new MBW looks like this:

1) TW Best - extract movement
2) Noobmariner - extract the dial and date wheel (and I'm going to add ... bracelet)
3) Purchase bezel insert/pearl from Watch Material (I'm thinking about ordering a couple so I can practice thinning the bezel insert) or gen off the bay.
4) Longer second hand (part from unknown doner )

Tools required:

1) Dremel tool for CG shaping (can you add which wheels you used for shaping and polishing?)

Services required:

1) Superlume (can you clarify whether a C1/C3 mix or C1...)



Thanks for this thread. I completely agree that this watch is the ultimate platform to build the perfect sub rep.

 

[d4m.test]

JewelryOutlet Sub Insert Highly Recommended

I found that the jewelryoutlet insert has a perfect fit to the TTK MBW bezel. I milled the back and the insert just snaps in to the bezel without glue. Perfect. Like I said, the slope is right and size is simply perfect for the TTK MBW bezel. I can get a flush fit. Now I'm gonna see if I can get a recessed fit.

-bk

 

[treeman]

All awesome info bk! Thank You....I plan to do the noob movement/dial/hands and the bracelet for now.

I am very scared to mess with the cg's and to be perfectly honest with you I am pretty darn happy with my ttk mbw right out of the box (mine is LV as you know), I know it has it's faults un-modded but I have put it side by side to my other reps (including a Paul's So Called Perfect and a Josh $188) and there is something about the MBW that beats them all...that rehaut/bezel/crystal...just the overall look of the watch. I am very happy with mine.

The only thing that gets to me is the date wheel and the solid bracelet but that will be solved with the noob. Basically for a grand total of $450 ($350 for MBW & $100 for noob) I end up with two watches. A noob with MBW parts inside and an MBW with noob parts inside that will look awesome! I don't think that's too bad. Thanks again for the info.

 

[d4m.test]

here're some pics of jewelryoutlet insert flush in the bezel. Just snap in, no glue:

Will attempt to make it recessed.

-bk

 

[d4m.test]

All awesome info bk! Thank You....I plan to do the noob movement/dial/hands and the bracelet for now.

I am very scared to mess with the cg's and to be perfectly honest with you I am pretty darn happy with my ttk mbw right out of the box (mine is LV as you know), I know it has it's faults un-modded but I have put it side by side to my other reps (including a Paul's So Called Perfect and a Josh $188) and there is something about the MBW that beats them all...that rehaut/bezel/crystal...just the overall look of the watch. I am very happy with mine.

The only thing that gets to me is the date wheel and the solid bracelet but that will be solved with the noob. Basically for a grand total of $450 ($350 for MBW & $100 for noob) I end up with two watches. A noob with MBW parts inside and an MBW with noob parts inside that will look awesome! I don't think that's too bad. Thanks again for the info.

MBW+noobmariner+jewelryoutlet insert+watchmaterial pearl=perfect sub rep, simpler than e=mc2. Ha ha.
The CGs mod is just icing on the cake. Really not required.

-bk

 

[reeseg]

Other than the simplicity of the swap, is there a reason to use the Noob ETA movement?

Isn't the MBW also ETA?

 

[treeman]

Other than the simplicity of the swap, is there a reason to use the Noob ETA movement?

Isn't the MBW also ETA?

I'm doing the total swap just because it's easier. I mean I will get it all...the dial,hands,movement, datewheel...in one step.

 

[reeseg]

Guess I'll go have to find a Noob ETA at a good price...