The 111G has Panerai written all over the back. The 111h has it once. Different models ... well, the same model from different years.mjkSSub said:
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thinking about the 111
- Thread starter mjkSSub
- Start date
fletch512
Active Member
- 9/5/06
- 234
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mjkSSub said:
There are two different series of the 111 being sold. Both are correct and represent how Panerai has made changes to the watch over time. Panerai made a "G" version of the watch that had "Panerai" written all over the movement. Also, the markings on the dial were painted on. Later, Panerai came out with the "H" series, which changed the "Panerai" markings on the back to a wavy "cotes de geneve" or "cdg" engraving. The dial was also changed so that the markings were cut into the dial rather than painted on (sandwich dial). Hope that helps.
That helps a lot...thanks guys you answered my question.
Is the asian mvmt ok? Also, I know you were talking about the quality of the straps being poor. Is this the case with this watch as well?
Is the asian mvmt ok? Also, I know you were talking about the quality of the straps being poor. Is this the case with this watch as well?
Mine is the Asian. I've never had a problem. Apparently, as long as you wind them up upside down, they're fine.mjkSSub said:
Haha. you just have all the answers to my questions PUG. thanks.....what are your opinions on the strap that comes with josh's 111? The plain black strap that its.
Honestly, never seen one in the flesh, so to speak, but I bet it's rubbish.mjkSSub said:
I mean it will work and all that, but the after-market ones are vastly superior.
Fair enough. I was of the impression that the keyless works [...magic happens here...] face down.enzo said:
I'll let Olde Crow explain his theory then ...
The general rule for replicas:
Whatever the waterproof number on the back, that is the distance you should keep it away from water.
Seriously, unless you are going to have it serviced and water tested, don't get it wet. Some people have talked about their watches getting wet and being ok, but I wouldn't push it.
Whatever the waterproof number on the back, that is the distance you should keep it away from water.
Seriously, unless you are going to have it serviced and water tested, don't get it wet. Some people have talked about their watches getting wet and being ok, but I wouldn't push it.
You know I haddn't considered the obvious... that the spring for the sliding pinion was just weak!
The problem I described I assumed was a manufacturing flaw with the geometry between the winding pinion in the keyless and the crown wheel but it is more likely that its just a weak spring and the winding pinion is just backing away from the crown wheel. I had imagined that the two were slipping past each other because as I mentioned when the watch is face down it appears to slip less... I don't know why it would slip less face down if its just the spring.... maybe just coincidence ?
I guess I need to find a creative way to watch what the keyless works are doing when I wind one of these and they slip just to see what really is happening...
I would add to enzo's comments that if you have a solid caseback model the look of the movement is even less relative!
The problem I described I assumed was a manufacturing flaw with the geometry between the winding pinion in the keyless and the crown wheel but it is more likely that its just a weak spring and the winding pinion is just backing away from the crown wheel. I had imagined that the two were slipping past each other because as I mentioned when the watch is face down it appears to slip less... I don't know why it would slip less face down if its just the spring.... maybe just coincidence ?
I guess I need to find a creative way to watch what the keyless works are doing when I wind one of these and they slip just to see what really is happening...
I would add to enzo's comments that if you have a solid caseback model the look of the movement is even less relative!
Well I went looking for the most complicated mechanical failure I could invent but it sounds like it’s really a materials failure. I’m sure many of the parts are swappable, it’s just a matter of trying them out to see.
So, no design fault at all? Excellent. I've changed my opinion.OldeCrow said:
Enzo, as usual, you educated me. Today I'm a little bit smarter, thanks.
really nice post about the educational stuff on pam...thanks everyone
enzo mate thanks to you too..
enzo mate thanks to you too..
Pugwash said:So, no design fault at all? Excellent. I've changed my opinion.OldeCrow said:
Enzo, as usual, you educated me. Today I'm a little bit smarter, thanks.
hehe me too!
I'll tell ya how I came to the conclusion that it was a design fault of some kind...
I got a Swiss movement pam with the pam style bridges that wouldn't wind properly.
You could wind it untill you got to a certain amount of resistance in the main spring and then something would slip, you could hear it slip and watch the ratchet wheel and crown wheel (the two big gears on the back of the watch) roll back and stop against the click stop when it did this.
I opened the watch and discovered that one of the screws on the barrel bridge( the plate that the two big gears rest in) had come loose so the entire plate along with everything attached to it was lifting away from the front plate of the movement which includes the gear in the keyless works so it was slipping when it seperated. I tightened the screws back down and no more problem, a perfectly running Swiss movement again.
The next movement I got was a CN unitas pam with the pam style bridges and it appeared to have the same problem as the Swiss one I had just fixed. Except when I opened it up the screws were all nice and tight but it was still slipping :shock: Ok if the CN unitas had been the first one I had worked on I probably would have looked at the springs in the keyless works but when I got to the CN unitas second I imagined all the ways that the manufacturing process could get screwed up and create this problem... my bad the simplest explanation is always true.
The good news is if the swiss parts will replace the bad CN parts they are only a dollar or so which is still cheaper than replacing the whole CN movement. By the time you pay someone to fix it a movement swap is probably still cheaper though
Lovin' my 1st PAM...
I wasn't sure if my wrist could accomodate a 44mm watch, so I decided to get the 111H because it would be easier to resell if needed.
After a month now, I cannot stop looking at it! I love it! More PAMs to follow...
I will post pictures soon!
I wasn't sure if my wrist could accomodate a 44mm watch, so I decided to get the 111H because it would be easier to resell if needed.
After a month now, I cannot stop looking at it! I love it! More PAMs to follow...
I will post pictures soon!
so i have yet to recieve my asian movement 111H...If this thing breaks in the future can i take it to a repair shop to get fixed...i no nothing about reapirs or replacements so i would have to rely on a professional?
I have a 111 from River and I absolutely loved it until......
the stem jammed and now I can't adjust the time, when i pull it out it still winds the watch.
Does anyone know if this can be easily fixed? is this a common prob?
Might be sticking to ETA's from now on.
Thanks!
the stem jammed and now I can't adjust the time, when i pull it out it still winds the watch.
Does anyone know if this can be easily fixed? is this a common prob?
Might be sticking to ETA's from now on.
Thanks!
wow, how did this get ressurected? I posted this months ago, because I have had my 111h for quite some time. haha. :lol: