The Vintage DateJust Thread

[aquaterranova666]

I second this. Thanks everyone for being helpful and answering questions

 

[ReflectionEternal]

Yes sir, gen 16030 linen dial.

Gen engine turned bezel
Gen linen dial
Gen hands (I think)
Raffles signed case and jubilee bracelet (haven't sized it yet)
VS3135
Open 6 and 9 date wheel

Love it, what a great build

 

[Yellowhammerwatches]

What’s your go to for 3135 Datejust hands? Spent the better part of the afternoon trying to get hands to align and grip the pinion correctly. I’m over it.

 

[Timmer]

For me, the essential requirement for setting hands (whether using individual hand press tools or the spring plunger thingy) was ample magnification.
Until I began using a 10x loupe, with the movement at eye level, I struggled every time. And since, I no longer dread the the process.

 

[aquaterranova666]

For me, the essential requirement for setting hands (whether using individual hand press tools or the spring plunger thingy) was ample magnification.
Until I began using a 10x loupe, with the movement at eye level, I struggled every time. And since, I no longer dread the the process.

Yeah magnification and proper tools. I use a table mount magnifier and a head mount jewelry loupe. I start them by hand then put them on a watch hand press. I found my hour hand to be a struggle but finally got it on with the press. Also, a bit of rotico on the end of a punch or end link pusher makes the seconds hand loads easier

 

[Yellowhammerwatches]

Alignment on DJ seems to need to be more precise, but my issue isn’t the skill set so much as the hand quality I’m running into. Tolerances seem to vary batch to batch alot of the time

 

[aquaterranova666]

 

[intellects]

It’s finished.

Gen dail
Gen bezel
Gen crown
Aftermarket hands
Open 6 and 9 datewheel
VS3135 engraved
Sternkreutz plexi (looking to upgrade)
Raffles modified case and bracelet with 555 end links

That looks beautiful. Where did you get the hands from?

 

[Rolexmike69]

Can anyone tell me if the raffles 1016 case and the 16200 case the same? Thank you

 

[romito_21]

hey all!
could anyone help with what’s the best option to build an “american psycho” build…
have about a 1k budget roughly

 

[Pyter2]

Hello all,

Seeing all these really nice builds and all the specialists has inspired me to start my first Franken Datejust.

I've ordered a 1601 case, a 16030/1603 gen dial, engine turned bezel, hands and crown. I'm considering using a VS3135 movement with that case, but as a newbie in the Franken world, I'm not entirely sure if the parts are compatible or if there's a better approach.

I've read quite a bit, but I'm still uncertain if the dial will be compatible with the 4-digit case and the movement. Any guidance or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance for your help!

 

[GenuineFool]

I've ordered a 1601 case, a 16030/1603 gen dial, engine turned bezel, hands and crown. I'm considering using a VS3135 movement with that case, but as a newbie in the Franken world, I'm not entirely sure if the parts are compatible or if there's a better approach.

I've read quite a bit, but I'm still uncertain if the dial will be compatible with the 4-digit case and the movement. Any guidance or advice would be greatly appreciated.

The dial in your picture is more recent than a 4-digit dial, so it should be compatible with a VS3135 out of the box. (4-digit dials, which can be recognized by the step-down minute track, have different dial feet position and don't mount to a 3135 without some type of modification to dial or movement.)

I don't know if a VS3135 will fit into a 1601 case, as that case originally housed a 1570 movement. The dimensions, particularly the stem height, might be different.

I also don't know if the dial will fit a 1601 case, but I believe it will fit a Raffles DJ case. Again, others might know.

But I would stick with either only 4-digit parts or only 5-digit parts for the build, 5-digit being easier to find rep parts that work together out of the box.

 

[Pyter2]

The dial in your picture is more recent than a 4-digit dial, so it should be compatible with a VS3135 out of the box. (4-digit dials, which can be recognized by the step-down minute track, have different dial feet position and don't mount to a 3135 without some type of modification to dial or movement.)

I don't know if a VS3135 will fit into a 1601 case, as that case originally housed a 1570 movement. The dimensions, particularly the stem height, might be different.

I also don't know if the dial will fit a 1601 case, but I believe it will fit a Raffles DJ case. Again, others might know.

But I would stick with either only 4-digit parts or only 5-digit parts for the build, 5-digit being easier to find rep parts that work

Thank you very much for taking the time and explaining it.

 

[Rolexmike69]

@GenuineFool do you know if the 1601 raffles case and the 16200 raffles Kase are the same except for different case back engraving? The guy at raffles told me that they’re the same but I’m not so sure.

 

[GenuineFool]

@GenuineFool do you know if the 1601 raffles case and the 16200 raffles Kase are the same except for different case back engraving? The guy at raffles told me that they’re the same but I’m not so sure.

I believe that they are, or at least were in the past. I have ordered both and they had the same markings on the case and seem to have the same dimensions.

 

[Rolexmike69]

I believe that they are, or at least were in the past. I have ordered both and they had the same markings on the case and seem to have the same dimensions.

Thank you!

 

[Rolexmike69]

I believe that they are, or at least were in the past. I have ordered both and they had the same markings on the case and seem to have the same dimensions.

Also, I purchased a Gen ETB from eBay. I tried to fit it over a Gen crystal and it seems fine.
I tried to put it on a Clark’s 25-135 acrylic and I don’t think it will fit.
Do you know if that’s the wrong acrylic crystal? I think the outside diameter of the crystal is 30.5 if I’m not mistaken
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

 

[esquivo]

I have noticed a lot of interest in vintage DateJust builds recently, and I thought it a good time to start a dedicated thread to collect experiences and options... and, of course, to showcase some of the amazing builds on this forum.

To get the ball rolling - this is my recently completed franken, blue dial DateJust 16030:

• Gen dial and bezel
• Raffles case and Jubilee
• SternKreutz XS 307.457
• Raffles "higher" DateJust hands (to clear the indices
• NH35 movement
• Raffles "open 6 and 9" datewheel overlay
• Athaya tube and crown
• Opened lug holes to accept larger gen-spec spring bars

This was a little more challenging than a 1016 build, but not by much. Gen dials and bezels are reasonably affordable and easily sourced.... LET'S SEE WHAT YOU HAVE BUILT - BUILD DETAILS APPRECIATED

Great build!
How much did you enlarge the lug holes?
My raffles case can fit the 0.88 mm gen-spec pivots (or aren’t these the correct dimensions?).

 

[1016_idiot_savant]

Great build!
How much did you enlarge the lug holes?
My raffles case can fit the 0.88 mm gen-spec pivots (or aren’t these the correct dimensions?).

I drilled out the lugs to accept gen-spec 2mm shoulderless spring bars (cousins #S52544), using a cheap hand drill and Ø1.3mm bit (cousins #D49923)

 

[Iksander]

That looks beautiful. Where did you get the hands from?

I thought they were from eBay but not really sure had some hands already for awhile