The Vintage DateJust Thread

[xray7]

I'm kinda new to this site, who does make this custom datejust build like this one? And how much is the expected price?

People here tend to build their own, but if you’ve not got the wherewithal, reach out to @pompompurin and discuss the specifications in which you are interested.

 

[clock_licker_lover]

People here tend to build their own, but if you’ve not got the wherewithal, reach out to @pompompurin and discuss the specifications in which you are interested.

Appreciate it Sir! I checked Pomp's profile and the price is not too bad. Sadly, I can't make it my own so I have to rely on modders.

 

[xray7]

Appreciate it Sir! I checked Pomp's profile and the price is not too bad. Sadly, I can't make it my own so I have to rely on modders.

Even I, a man who might vaguely gesture to the engine bay of a car to suggest the spark plug is somewhere in there as an indication of my mechanical ability, have been able to partially assemble a nice Datejust over a couple of Saturday afternoons… it is simply a case of AliExpress tools, the bits and pieces which make your heart sing on your proposed Datejust from wherever, and a whole bunch of time burned learning.

 

[369mafia]

 

[Rolexmike69]

Does anyone know (think I’ve seen this somewhere before on RWI but I can’t find it)
I found that a genuine 603 crown will fit onto a raffles 16200 case pretty well.
My question is, if you’re using a 3 mm crown tube, what size tap do you need and what’s the process to get the new tube to fit that case?
I ruined a 16200 raffles case, trying to drill out the old opening and then re-tap with the 3.0 x 3.5 tap.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

 

[xray7]

I ruined a 16200 raffles case, trying to drill out the old opening and then re-tap with the 3.0 x 3.5 tap.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

What went wrong?

 

[automatico]

My question is, if you’re using a 3 mm crown tube, what size tap do you need and what’s the process to get the new tube to fit that case?

Here is some info that might help:

Crown Info...

In the old days 6.0mm od crowns all used a case tube made for 6.0mm crowns and 5.3mm crowns all used a case tube made for 5.3mm crowns. This has nothing to do with thread or tube sizes, they use the nominal crown outside diameter for identification with appropriate case tubes to work with 5.3mm, ...

rwg.cc

Some replica cases have oem spec case tube threads and some have oddball threads. This is where much of the trouble comes from.
If the case has oem spec threads, I would remove the case tube (if it has any flaws at all) and install a high quality aftmkt case tube with oem spec or genuine crown.
Note: Some 5.3mm case tubes come with a silver sealing washer that goes between the case tube and case so use it if needed. There are silver washers for regular 6.0 type tubes too but they are hard to find and getting expensive.

I have drilled out quite a few cases that came with 5.3mm type case tubes and cheapo 'too wide' 6.0mm crowns and I drilled the case out and tapped it to accept an oem spec case tube and oem spec 6.0mm crown. This is fine with older 5 digit DJ projects, 1016, etc. but will not be 'on spec' for a modern case, not that it really matters. I did this to one of my JMB '1016' cases and it turned out fine.

Good luck!

 

[clock_licker_lover]

Even I, a man who might vaguely gesture to the engine bay of a car to suggest the spark plug is somewhere in there as an indication of my mechanical ability, have been able to partially assemble a nice Datejust over a couple of Saturday afternoons… it is simply a case of AliExpress tools, the bits and pieces which make your heart sing on your proposed Datejust from wherever, and a whole bunch of time burned learning.

Looks like I am doing it myself. I do have a Clean DJ, I just need the vintage Bezel and Dial, also the tools to open the watch.

 

[Timmer]

Looks like I am doing it myself. I do have a Clean DJ, I just need the vintage Bezel and Dial, also the tools to open the watch.

Well I see one problem the DJ that you own is a 6-digit DateJust, and for starters, it is polished on it's top. That could be easily remedied with some buffing with a scotch pad. But, I'm not sure a 5 digit ("Wanted Look)" engine-turned bezel would fit on a 6 digit case...; others more knowledgeable than I could opine....

 

[xray7]

Looks like I am doing it myself. I do have a Clean DJ, I just need the vintage Bezel and Dial, also the tools to open the watch.

As someone has already pointed out, you’re going to need a 5 digit case. Raffles is a good bet for the mid case.

Your first stop needs to be dial source, as that then determines movement. Are you going all out with a gen dial? Are you starting with a Raffles cheapy?

Buying from Raffles, tell him your plan - exactly which movement. He can throw in a gasket as a spacer if you’re using the 2824 Explorer case with a 3135 movement, for instance.

You should also consider if you are cool with the Raffles crown. If you aren’t, you’re going to be replacing the crown tube, and installing a new one, because crown compatibility is not assured.

The movement also determines DW placement and the Raffles crystals all use 2824 or a cheaper movement placement - so if you’re building a 5 digit with say a 3135 clone, you need a gen spec crystal with the cyclops placed accordingly. I like Sternkreuz, others like Clark’s, they are all inexpensive.

You also won’t find the engine turned bezel in the rep world, so you’ll need to buy it gen - and my friend, NOS is about 5x more expensive than used for a stainless steel part which really doesn’t show wear, so buy it used.

Welcome to the suck.

 

[Rolexmike69]

What went wrong

The tap must be too big for tube. It just fell into case like a hotdog down a hallway lol.

 

[xray7]

The tap must be too big for tube. It just fell into case like a hotdog down a hallway lol.

Please do post an image of the packaging of your tap and the tap itself (it may be that there’s not much we can derive from the tap itself but hey, we can try) and maybe one of our Franken gods can help in diagnosing the failure.

Could the tap have been out of spec or just the wrong tap in the wrong package perhaps? Did it come from a reputable watch making supply house?

You’ve got me concerned about risks in tapping a gen mid case now… I think I might practice on a Raffles first just to be sure…

 

[vhp]

Hi everyone!
So recently I’ve been deep diving into the world of vintage Datejusts. I have collected watches since 2017. At the moment the collection consists of both genuine and replicas.

A few weeks ago I discovered vintage Datejusts on r/Reptime, and I was hooked!

I present to you my very first build, with pictures and my experience.

Spec list:
Raffles 2824 case (stamped 1016 on case back)
Raffles jubilee bracelet
Gen Tapestry silver dial
Aftermarket hands for 3135
VS3135 movement

<img src="https://images.clickpix.org/hH9Vb8.jpeg" alt="hH9Vb8.jpeg" border="0">

These are the parts I had. Turns out I didn’t need the metal ring. I guess it’s a spacer for a different movement.

Next was fitting the dial and hands to the movement.
<img src="https://images.clickpix.org/hHn5Up.jpeg" alt="hHn5Up.jpeg" border="0">

Here comes the worst part. I could not press the bezel all the way in, no matter how I tried. I even tried to hammer it in. I would say it is 99% on, but you can see it is not all the way in on the crown side. But on the opposite side it’s pushed in all the way.

<img src="https://images.clickpix.org/hHnIZn.jpeg" alt="hHnIZn.jpeg" border="0">
<img src="https://images.clickpix.org/hHnmn2.jpeg" alt="hHnmn2.jpeg" border="0">
<img src="https://images.clickpix.org/hHnosE.jpeg" alt="hHnosE.jpeg" border="0">
<img src="https://images.clickpix.org/hHnUQ5.jpeg" alt="hHnUQ5.jpeg" border="0">
<img src="https://images.clickpix.org/hHnWRF.jpeg" alt="hHnWRF.jpeg" border="0">

The next step was also a bit frustrating. I had to cut and refit the stem and crown three times.
<img src="https://images.clickpix.org/hHnIZn.jpeg" alt="hHnIZn.jpeg" border="0">
<img src="https://images.clickpix.org/hHnmn2.jpeg" alt="hHnmn2.jpeg" border="0">
<img src="https://images.clickpix.org/hHnosE.jpeg" alt="hHnosE.jpeg" border="0">

I was a bit nervous to see if the rotor was cleared off the back case. Honestly, I still don’t know because I can hear rattling but I don’t know if it’s the bracelet or the rotor. Either way I choose to sand down the back case with sandpaper…by hand. If I had a Dremel I would use it.

All in all, it was a fun and satisfying project.
The final product I would rate 8.5/10.
I’m very happy with the dial and case. The lug shape is good, not too thick. I think the bezel and crystal both look good enough.

I am less happy with the crown and the bracelet.
I haven’t had enough time to rate the movement, but I expect it to work well.

Thanks to everyone who contributes to this community, and a special thanks to the ones who replied to my questions.

<img src="https://images.clickpix.org/hHn6fo.jpeg" alt="hHn6fo.jpeg" border="0">
<img src="https://images.clickpix.org/hHnnQk.jpeg" alt="hHnnQk.jpeg" border="0">
<img src="https://images.clickpix.org/hHn9WD.jpeg" alt="hHn9WD.jpeg" border="0">

 

[beanvatan]

Here comes the worst part. I could not press the bezel all the way in, no matter how I tried. I even tried to hammer it in. I would say it is 99% on, but you can see it is not all the way in on the crown side. But on the opposite side it’s pushed in all the way.

your crystal gasket may be too thick for the inner bezel. Are you using the gasket that came with the case? Also, didn't the raffle case already have the crystal/bezel installed for you? Most of the time, the raffle cases are using a thinner crystal gasket to get the bezel to fit in. If you're using a thicker gasket, you will need to either widen the inner diameter of the bezel or you will need to replace the gasket, otherwise it will not fit in all the way, it will, but not all the way.

But nice build, I love the spec! congrats on your watch journey.

 

[vhp]

your crystal gasket may be too thick for the inner bezel. Are you using the gasket that came with the case? Also, didn't the raffle case already have the crystal/bezel installed for you? Most of the time, the raffle cases are using a thinner crystal gasket to get the bezel to fit in. If you're using a thicker gasket, you will need to either widen the inner diameter of the bezel or you will need to replace the gasket, otherwise it will not fit in all the way, it will, but not all the way.

But nice build, I love the spec! congrats on your watch journey.

Thanks!
I had a conversation with Raffles before purchase. Very helpful dude!
I use a VS3135. That’s why he left the bezel and gasket unpressed so I could fit the dial and movement, and align the crystal myself.
There were to gaskets in the tiny plastic bag with the crystal. One for the crystal and one to use as spacer for the movement and dial. I think I used the correct one for the crystal.

 

[Iksander]

There is no spacer between the movement and dail if you use 3135.
The other one is for securing the movement in its case at least that’s what’s I make of it.

 

[vhp]

There is no spacer between the movement and dail if you use 3135.
The other one is for securing the movement in its case at least that’s what’s I make of it.

I’m not all familiar with English terms for all the parts, but I think we meant the same. I used the extra gasket to secure the movement in the case.

 

[Iksander]

Is there any way to upgrade the crown without drilling and tapping the case?
The raffles crown is pretty bad I have to say.
Would like a slightly better crown on this one.

 

[Rolexmike69]

Is there any way to upgrade the crown without drilling and tapping the case?
The raffles crown is pretty bad I have to say.
Would like a slightly better crown on this one.

Without changing the crown tube at all, I got a genuine 603 or you can use a 604 crown and it fit remarkably well

 

[Iksander]

Thanks!