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The official AP Diver discussion thread

QueTip

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QueTip

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Thank you!

TBH I think that the mods which are (maybe) needed are:
  1. GEN inner bezel (hard to get) .... but lets see how good the V10 is, it will def not be like the GEN but maybe good enough
  2. Cyclop .... Profs cyclop is even better then the GEN, so JF stock might be even closer. --> Mikey stopped his production :(
  3. Mikey DW ... but I have heard he stopped printing DWs
  4. 21600 bph conversion
  5. GEN rubber strap
  6. maybe some GEN hands ... if I can get some.
  7. some members said, that the bezel screwes (hight) might also be modded to make it more GEN like
Whats the opinion from other members incl. Legend on this points? I think that only point 1., 4., 5. and maybe 6. is really necessary and/or possible but please correct me if I am wrong.


Well, nothing is per se needed. It all comes down to what you expect from it or what you are planning to get done. Some can live with flaw x while others cannot. Both is absolutely acceptable and within terms. So the answers you'll be getting on your questions will be rather subjective.

Here's my take.

1- I'd wait and see how that v10 turns out to be. Of course, gen is always gen but genuine diving scales are hard to get by and also can chunk up some decent amount of money, while the new one may be sufficient for your needs. As always, up to your personal OCD.
2- I always like to upgrade the cyclops as I don't like the stock JF cyclops I've been handling in v9.5 iterations.
3- Mikey DW is not necessary unless you want to change to modern or change to old style, whichever way you go. JF copied Mikey's date wheels pretty much.
4- LowBeat conversion, I agree
5- Gen rubber strap comes down to personal preference. I personally prefer the JF rubber straps.
6- if you really want them, can find them and can see the difference between gen and rep. Can you?
7- let's not get into this. This has been discussed thoroughly, maybe my bro legend can remember. :lol: You won't need to have them sunken or whatever. The modern gens I have seen all came with pretty much flush bezel screws.
 

Erinoush

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Well, nothing is per se needed. It all comes down to what you expect from it or what you are planning to get done. Some can live with flaw x while others cannot. Both is absolutely acceptable and within terms. So the answers you'll be getting on your questions will be rather subjective.

Here's my take.

1- I'd wait and see how that v10 turns out to be. Of course, gen is always gen but genuine diving scales are hard to get by and also can chunk up some decent amount of money, while the new one may be sufficient for your needs. As always, up to your personal OCD.
2- I always like to upgrade the cyclops as I don't like the stock JF cyclops I've been handling in v9.5 iterations.
3- Mikey DW is not necessary unless you want to change to modern or change to old style, whichever way you go. JF copied Mikey's date wheels pretty much.
4- LowBeat conversion, I agree
5- Gen rubber strap comes down to personal preference. I personally prefer the JF rubber straps.
6- if you really want them, can find them and can see the difference between gen and rep. Can you?
7- let's not get into this. This has been discussed thoroughly, maybe my bro legend can remember. :lol: You won't need to have them sunken or whatever. The modern gens I have seen all came with pretty much flush bezel screws.

7 i think what he meant was mod the screws in order to get them equally adjusted unlike some reps that are randomized either sunken or flush on the same bezel...
 

Time_Wizard

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Well, nothing is per se needed. It all comes down to what you expect from it or what you are planning to get done. Some can live with flaw x while others cannot. Both is absolutely acceptable and within terms. So the answers you'll be getting on your questions will be rather subjective.

Here's my take.

1- I'd wait and see how that v10 turns out to be. Of course, gen is always gen but genuine diving scales are hard to get by and also can chunk up some decent amount of money, while the new one may be sufficient for your needs. As always, up to your personal OCD.
2- I always like to upgrade the cyclops as I don't like the stock JF cyclops I've been handling in v9.5 iterations.
3- Mikey DW is not necessary unless you want to change to modern or change to old style, whichever way you go. JF copied Mikey's date wheels pretty much.
4- LowBeat conversion, I agree
5- Gen rubber strap comes down to personal preference. I personally prefer the JF rubber straps.
6- if you really want them, can find them and can see the difference between gen and rep. Can you?
7- let's not get into this. This has been discussed thoroughly, maybe my bro legend can remember. :lol: You won't need to have them sunken or whatever. The modern gens I have seen all came with pretty much flush bezel screws.

Thanks for you insight.
  1. My plan was always to change the dive bezel but after seeing this V10, I think it might be good enough.
  2. The cyclops will be upgraded because I sometimes had problems reading the date on my V9.5.
  3. -
  4. I will make it when I send the watch to a service ... shoudnt be too hard for a watchsmith as I have seen a guid on RWG
  5. I really like the JF strap as well just I have read, that the GEN is stiffer and not so soft and could be an instant tell..... But I will stay with my JF one and maybe one day buy a black hornback strap.
  6. I can see it but its not a big thing.
  7. -
So my plan is to buy V10 and make 2., 4. and one day maybe 5.
Thanks a lot for helping me choosing the right upgrades. I was just a bit confused after reading about this topic in different threads and forums and all said something else. I think I found my way to go now.
 

Time_Wizard

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I have heard from another member, that to achive 21600bph one can change the movement to a tissot powermatic 80 (https://watch-insider.com/news/tiss...-ultra-precise-low-cost-mechanical-movements/ and https://monochrome-watches.com/swatch-groups-powermatic-movement-a-powerful-entry-level-engine/).
Anyone else has done this?
Are there any other swiss made movements which I could use to replace the A-2824 but with 21600 bph?
Then I would spend a little more instead of paying my watchsmith for the conversion but I would have an swiss movement inside.
Any help would be really appreciated!
 
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Just Cavalli

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I've heard from TD that factory denies any update made on the v9.5, also TD says most of the watches they get is without the 3D effect.
 

jasonbaylee

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I have heard from another member, that to achive 21600bph one can change the movement to a tissot powermatic 80 (https://watch-insider.com/news/tiss...-ultra-precise-low-cost-mechanical-movements/ and https://monochrome-watches.com/swatch-groups-powermatic-movement-a-powerful-entry-level-engine/).
Anyone else has done this?
Are there any other swiss made movements which I could use to replace the A-2824 but with 21600 bph?
Then I would spend a little more instead of paying my watchsmith for the conversion but I would have an swiss movement inside.
Any help would be really appreciated!

I have this powermatic 80 in my modded AP ROO & the RP is Superb!

A2824 can be modded for a Low beat which both quetip & legend will highly recommended but of cos it must be in accord to your preference.

Actually A2824 is a very reliable movement and there is no necessity to get a Swiss movement even your pockets are deep & of cos again, it is your preference.
 

legend

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Where I need to be.
I have heard from another member, that to achive 21600bph one can change the movement to a tissot powermatic 80 (https://watch-insider.com/news/tiss...-ultra-precise-low-cost-mechanical-movements/ and https://monochrome-watches.com/swatch-groups-powermatic-movement-a-powerful-entry-level-engine/).
Anyone else has done this?
Are there any other swiss made movements which I could use to replace the A-2824 but with 21600 bph?
Then I would spend a little more instead of paying my watchsmith for the conversion but I would have an swiss movement inside.
Any help would be really appreciated!

Personally I will rather have a low beat A2836 than a powermatic80. Reason is because 2836 has the instant date flip like the AP cal 3120.
I never liked the powermatic movement personally in an AP both for the date change issue and also it may sometimes be tricky to regulate the P80 movement as it uses two screws situated on the balance wheel assembly instead of a regulator bar to do it.

If it’s a serious project you can even consider getting an XF FC diver, converting it to a low beat and transplanting the movement into the V10 for the datewheel and instant date for flip.

To each his own, but like Rolex, AP watches should never have a slow date roll found in the 2824 or 2892 franken base movements. I will use a low beat converted A2836 movement if I am you.


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Time_Wizard

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Personally I will rather have a low beat A2836 than a powermatic80. Reason is because 2836 has the instant date flip like the AP cal 3120.
I never liked the powermatic movement personally in an AP both for the date change issue and also it may sometimes be tricky to regulate the P80 movement as it uses two screws situated on the balance wheel assembly instead of a regulator bar to do it.

If it’s a serious project you can even consider getting an XF FC diver, converting it to a low beat and transplanting the movement into the V10 for the datewheel and instant date for flip.

To each his own, but like Rolex, AP watches should never have a slow date roll found in the 2824 or 2892 franken base movements. I will use a low beat converted A2836 movement if I am you.


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I trust you on this because you have definitely more knowledge.
Thanks for your help.
I always thought that the 2824 has an instant date flip.
It seems that the date slightly moved before flipping (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wGIgqffhYOI). Not sure if the difference between 2836 and 2824 is so noticeable.
I found this in case other members wonder about the differences: https://forum.replica-watch.info/for...t-flip-at-12am

When changing to an 2836 (https://www.uhrenwerkzeuge24.de/uhrwerke-122/uhrwerke/automatikwerk-2836-8836-fuer-armbanduhren.php) movement can I use the DW from the JF 2824? Or do I need an new dw?

Because if I can use the old DW it would be cheaper to just buy an A2836 and not the whole XF Diver.

I found an 2834 (https://www.uhrenwerkzeuge24.de/uhrwerke-122/uhrwerke/automatikwerk-2834-dg-2812.php) which also has an instant date flip and beats at 21600bph. So if I can use the jf date wheel this would be my preferred option.
 
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Swiss_goupil

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Personally I will rather have a low beat A2836 than a powermatic80. Reason is because 2836 has the instant date flip like the AP cal 3120.
I never liked the powermatic movement personally in an AP both for the date change issue and also it may sometimes be tricky to regulate the P80 movement as it uses two screws situated on the balance wheel assembly instead of a regulator bar to do it.

If it’s a serious project you can even consider getting an XF FC diver, converting it to a low beat and transplanting the movement into the V10 for the datewheel and instant date for flip.

To each his own, but like Rolex, AP watches should never have a slow date roll found in the 2824 or 2892 franken base movements. I will use a low beat converted A2836 movement if I am you.


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We heard you Al. But the question is will the 2836 fit the JF? (ie stem height is way off)


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RonP

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Is there likely to be an official v10 with even more upgrades?

It might be worth waiting a little while longer in that case.
 

Repworld

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Is there likely to be an official v10 with even more upgrades?

It might be worth waiting a little while longer in that case.

Same question, cyclops case back buckle engraving crown engraving , watch need little updates for perfection..


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Just Cavalli

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Is there likely to be an official v10 with even more upgrades?

It might be worth waiting a little while longer in that case.

As I stated already, factory denies any updates and most watches delivered to TD is without the so named "3D" effect.