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The 34mm thread...the red-haired stepchild of the Oyster Perpetual family.

dpd3672

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I'm starting to get a little self conscious about sullying the excellent 1016 thread with my tangents about 5500 Explorers, so I figured I'd start a whole new thread.

This, hopefully, will become a place for tongue in cheek humor, blatant watch porn, and a repository for helpful information on these watches. There's not a whole lot of "ready to wear" 34mm reps, so the vast majority of these will be builds and Frankens, which is always a great subject for a photo shoot.

The 34mm Rolex models are a neat subcategory of the basic Rolex Oyster line. What was once the default size has now fallen out of favor, as bigger and bigger watches become the fashionable choice. Some, however, are seeing a trend with smaller watches making a comeback, so those who enter here for love, support, and debate might one day be known as pioneers, trend setters, early adopters, and fashionistas...but I get ahead of myself.

Most famously, the Air King and Oyster Perpetual (both sometimes with Date), but also the somewhat less common Explorer 5500 (rarely with Date) and Commando 6429 would fall under this banner.

They're a very understated watch to wear when you're looking to whisper, rather than shout, and the gen parts are still quite a bargain, compared to their 36mm cousins.

So for a first post, I'll share a photo collage I made of the currently available Rolex 5500 dials on the market. Raffles makes a great case set, but their dial is actually oversized, designed for the 36mm case set, which is a shame...it's very nicely done. Ruby, Yuki and Mochacha make 5500 dials, but they're a bit more expensive. Another option is a gilt dial, which is a DIY project that's covered at length in other threads. Raffles makes a good case in 34mm that's a basis for a build, and you can still find 34mm gen cases for not too much money (cheaper than a Vietnam case, actually) if you're patient and willing to put in some time looking.


 
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dpd3672

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Another great option for a 34mm build is the Commando. I'm far from an expert on these, just ordered the parts to build my first, but the short version is: They were a special edition that Rolex made to be sold in Abercrombie and Fitch stores and/or Military PX stores, and were manual wind (no "perpetual" in "Oyster Perpetual" and based, aesthetically, on the Explorer. They were catalogued as Model 6429.

 

RDRoss

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One of the most overlooked 34mm IMHO has got to be the 5701 Air king date. It is both unique and unusual, and great for any collector.
 
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dpd3672

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Another somewhat rare model is the 5700, which was (more commonly) an Air King and (less commonly) an Explorer in 34mm with a date and cyclops crystal. There's some debate about when and where the Explorer Dates were sold, but many seem to believe they were mostly for the Canadian market and sold for a brief period of time. The Air King date had a bit longer of a production run.




 

dpd3672

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One of the most overlooked 34mm IMHO has got to be the 5701 Air king date. It is both unique and unusual, and great for any collector.
Lol, you posted this while I was typing the next post.

I'm building up an Explorer Date with a gen dial and gen 5700 case at the moment. I was torn about building it as an Air King Date, but found the Explorer dial first.
 
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dpd3672

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Finally, what 34mm post would be complete without the best known and most popular, the simple and elegant Oyster Perpetual, with or without date? Probably the most common, and one of the easiest to source gen dials and cases for. The 1002 and 1500 and their variants are all over the place.

Oyster Perpetual, Air King, Oysterdate...nearly every combination of dials, hands, markers, and colors as the mind can imagine, there's really a ton of possibilities.

 

RDRoss

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I have been thinking about a build myself. I have a nice 1501 case set to build off , I just need to pickup a dial.
 
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369mafia

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What bracelet and links are you running on this? Having a hell of a time finding workable ends for my dagger dial.
The bracelet on that watch is a hand made 19mm rivet that a member from eastern Europe made for me by hand in 2018 ish
stamped 57 not sure if he made them himself or modified an aftermarket set of end links but the bracelet links are hand made. I swapped a gen clasp onto it.

 
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dpd3672

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Just some reference information on crystals.

TROPIC (No cyclops) crystals, by model number:

TROPIC 12 :
1002-1011, 1014, 1022-1039, 5500, 5501, 5506, 5520, 5552, 5590, 6422, 6423, 6426, 6427, 6429, 6480, 6500, 6502, 6528, 6532, 6552, 6556 Trubeat, 6558, 6564, 6565, 6566, 6567, 6569, 6580-6587, 6590-6593, 6634, 7934, 7949, 7950, 7959, 7984A, 7986A, 7987A, 7991A, 7993, 7995A, 9000, 9020, 9021, 9022, 9023, 9031, 9033, 9041

TROPIC 13 :
5502, 5516, 6594, 7926, 7963, 7965, 7967

TROPIC 14 :
6512

CYCLOPS CRYSTALS, by model number:

Crystal No 108 :
6122-6127, 6294, 6494, 6515, 6518, 6694, 7914, 7919, 7929, 9294

Crystal No 117 :
1500-1514, 1550, 1625, 5700, 5701, 6535, 6537, 6602, 6609, 6646

Crystal No 119 :
7974