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The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread

369mafia

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Did you start with a tropical Raffle dial and then air brush one part black?
This was the caramel dial from raffles
a combination of browns, ochre and black were applied in various methods to achieve this appearance aka fancy talk for winged it until I was happy with the look lol
 
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369mafia

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I always manage to get it right. But seemingly never on the first press.

Only on eta clones though, NH is easy

next to messing up the keyless , setting hands was my next biggest fear. I have overcome, but still mess up occasionally lol

I hold and position the hand with rodico and free hand with a hand setting tools like shown above. but @316lad is correct elevate your work surface to closer to eye level build yourself a table top work station , cover it in a soft cloth or vinyl fabric to prevent parts from rolling or bouncing away and get as eye ,level with it.
 
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Karbon74

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next to messing up the keyless , setting hands was my next biggest fear. I have overcome, but still mess up occasionally lol

I hold and position the hand with rodico and free hand with a hand setting tools like shown above. but @316lad is correct elevate your work surface to closer to eye level build yourself a table top work station , cover it in a soft cloth or vinyl fabric to prevent parts from rolling or bouncing away and get as eye ,level with it.
actually once I even kneeled in front of my desk to get level. 😅 but that's not comfortable at all
 
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Action_Jensen

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I love it.
Other threads go on arguing amongst themselves about who out there makes the best dial for their watch in question.

We, however, on the 1016 Under-Appreciated-Thread just get the bloody tools out and get down to work and bloody well make our own.
Yeah my thoughts exactly. this is a really nice small community of likeminded people :) im currently woring on my thesis so not so much time to write but i read ;-) next year there probably will be some custom bezles too. also i like that raffles maybe can make a handset for us. this is how hobby communities shoud be
 

dpd3672

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Making progress on the dials. Here's some (again, rough) test prints. First ones are printed from .jpg files, the next are the (improved, imo) vector files.

Still some room for improvement, but coming along. Some of the decals got a bit deformed, but that's a problem for another day. Mostly looking at the fonts and the sharpness of the printing. First photo in each pair is from a .jpg, the second is from the vector file (there's a white wire in the bottom of the vector photos, so I could tell the difference myself...eyes not being what they used to be, lol).













 
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369mafia

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defiantly a noticeable improvement between the two file types. nice work. Your decals seem to have a matte finish in appearance. they look good I am excited to see the progress.
 
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dpd3672

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defiantly a noticeable improvement between the two file types. nice work. Your decals seem to have a matte finish in appearance. they look good I am excited to see the progress.
Yes, that's just a clear matte spray I use to protect them. Some near term projects involve:


1) Film free decal paper, which is harder than hell to source, as least in the US. The Sunnyscopa company that makes it says it won't be available domestically for 2-3 months, but offered to sell me some from overseas...$44 for 50 sheets, plus $53 shipping is a little steep, so I have some coming from AliX and some off brand stuff I found. Not sure how it'll work, but it should look better and open some possibilities for different finishes (black oxydation and/or light etching).

2) The gilt dials look good, but the ones on white paper are a little washed out. I'm going to try painting them will gloss paint and doing a negative print dial to see if the white versions come out better than they currently are. Not sure if it's even visible in the above photos, but a couple of those dials have white print, but it doesn't pop like the real thing.
 

316lad

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defiantly a noticeable improvement between the two file types. nice work. Your decals seem to have a matte finish in appearance. they look good I am excited to see the progress.
Exciting to see this developing and each step a littel more progress towards what I'm sure will be a fantastic set of dials.
 
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316lad

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T21 (another . . .) fitted after increasing bezel I.D. - a good positive fit this time.
Took the opportunity to patina the indices and hands a little more and while everything was stripped down did a bit of lug-work and polishing.
You'll see I accidentally got some of the black weathering across the 'R' of the Rolex - which I'll have to sort out at some point.
I blame distraction from the wife who kept interupting operations to discuss X-mas shoppping/ food arrangements.


 

pullthat92

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Am I understanding the dial assembly correctly?



And I think I definitely need to cut the dial feet. They are too long and don't fit in.
 
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316lad

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That's the correct order. The dial spacer is not mandatory in my experience.
The "foil thing" is the Dial Washer. It exerts gentle pressure on the Hour Wheel to keep it meshed to the imtermediate wheel of the keyless works and it's own shaft.

Good luck!
 

316lad

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shit. I threw away the dial washer foil thing.
Then you've been lucky. That the Hour Wheel has stayed meshed to the keyless works and crown pinion shaft.
If it doesn't you'll know all about it. Hour hand will start stalling intermittently, and you'll feel it through the crown as a kind of ugly, teeth-grating, metal-ripping sensation.
 

Karbon74

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watch works perfectly. no hands slipping.

but that might explain the helicopter effect that happens after 10ish turns of the handwind?

anyway, I will buy some from Cousins
 
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316lad

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Yep, best practice and all that.

Wouldn't necessarily explain the helicoptering you're getting. But to get to the reason for that, everything else should be correctly placed and where it should be. That includes the Dial Washer.
 
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