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The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread

316lad

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With cracked crystal . . .and lugs that look disticctly un-sharp in that photo but actually are ok - must be the light.

Having done the 2824 case mod from sapphire to acrylic T21 and increased the I.d. of the bezel - I wondered how tight are people making this fit? finger-push tight? or pressing tool-tight?
How do we create a modicom of splash resistance but negate as much as possible the opportunity of cracking the damn thing again?
Not asking for a friend - asking for me!
 
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dpd3672

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With cracked crystal . . .and lugs that look disticctly un-sharp in that photo but actually are ok - must be the light.

Having done the 2824 case mod from sapphire to acrylic T21 and increased the I.d. of the bezel - I wondered how tight are people making this fit? finger-push tight? or pressing tool-tight?
How do we create a modicom of splash resistance but negate as much as possible the opportunity of cracking the damn thing again?
Not asking for a friend - asking for me!
FWIW, the crystal on the gen I posted photos of yesterday (the case without the bezel) is barely a friction fit...there's a little resistance, but not much at all. Granted, this is a very old watch and the crystal may or may not be OEM, and might be very worn, but I don't think you should need a lot of muscle to get a crystal in and out. I guess the bezel is supposed to add whatever pressure is needed to lock it in.

Maybe a little ring of hypo cement would secure the crystal and make it water-tight? I do know that water pressure would squeze the crystal to the case, which should make it more watertight, but I don't know if that's designed in or just a helpful gift from nature and physics.
 
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316lad

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FWIW, the crystal on the gen I posted photos of yesterday (the case without the bezel) is barely a friction fit...there's a little resistance, but not much at all. Granted, this is a very old watch and the crystal may or may not be OEM, and might be very worn, but I don't think you should need a lot of muscle to get a crystal in and out. I guess the bezel is supposed to add whatever pressure is needed to lock it in.

Maybe a little ring of hypo cement would secure the crystal and make it water-tight? I do know that water pressure would squeze the crystal to the case, which should make it more watertight, but I don't know if that's designed in or just a helpful gift from nature and physics.
Thanks for this. The crytsal actually pops on quite nicely - a good friction fit.
I really meant about the bezel being pushed down in to it's position.
Given that we're taking material away from it's I.D. - what constitutes a good fit? ; finger pressure alone to push it home? or in the press? if so - how white the knuckles need to go with the press tool handle, etc.
 

dpd3672

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Thanks for this. The crytsal actually pops on quite nicely - a good friction fit.
I really meant about the bezel being pushed down in to it's position.
Given that we're taking material away from it's I.D. - what constitutes a good fit? ; finger pressure alone to push it home? or in the press? if so - how white the knuckles need to go with the press tool handle, etc.
You've got me there, I've never done a bezel, except on a Submariner-style case, which is (by comparison) almost too easy.

Maybe watch a bunch of You Tube videos and get a general idea of how much pressure is normal. IIRC, there should be a noticeable amount, but you shouldn't need to put it on the ground and kneel on it, lol.
 
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369mafia

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With cracked crystal . . .and lugs that look disticctly un-sharp in that photo but actually are ok - must be the light.

Having done the 2824 case mod from sapphire to acrylic T21 and increased the I.d. of the bezel - I wondered how tight are people making this fit? finger-push tight? or pressing tool-tight?
How do we create a modicom of splash resistance but negate as much as possible the opportunity of cracking the damn thing again?
Not asking for a friend - asking for me!

If I was replacing the crystal , on your specific watch, I would remove the bezel and give it a few (half a dozen) passes with a dremel and grinding stone or sanding drum and then take some high grit sandpaper 600-800 and by hand do a few passes on both the top rim and bottom edge of the ID of the bezel to smooth the surface and remove any possible burs or roughness. and then try pressing it on. The bezel should go on about 1/3-1/2 of the way on by hand and then be pressed on into position with your crystal press. There should be some resistance when installing the bezel but you shouldn't have to force it I would give the inside edge of the bezel a light coat of dish soap to reduce any friction . I suppose you could use a light coat of silicone grease also which will allow easier install and improve water tightness a touch. go light as this still have a way of migrating its way onto your dial surface if you are not careful .

Its hard to explain but once you have done it once, you will be able to tell when its just right and it slides on with a little bit of pressure .
but in my perfectional , medical opinion, your bezel ID is still a bit too small , two crystals in a month is unacceptable lol save some T21's for the rest of us
 

316lad

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If I was replacing the crystal , on your specific watch, I would remove the bezel and give it a few (half a dozen) passes with a dremel and grinding stone or sanding drum and then take some high grit sandpaper 600-800 and by hand do a few passes on both the top rim and bottom edge of the ID of the bezel to smooth the surface and remove any possible burs or roughness. and then try pressing it on. The bezel should go on about 1/3-1/2 of the way on by hand and then be pressed on into position with your crystal press. There should be some resistance when installing the bezel but you shouldn't have to force it I would give the inside edge of the bezel a light coat of dish soap to reduce any friction . I suppose you could use a light coat of silicone grease also which will allow easier install and improve water tightness a touch. go light as this still have a way of migrating its way onto your dial surface if you are not careful .

Its hard to explain but once you have done it once, you will be able to tell when its just right and it slides on with a little bit of pressure .
but in my perfectional , medical opinion, your bezel ID is still a bit too small , two crystals in a month is unacceptable lol save some T21's for the rest of us
Thanks very much for this 369.
Yes, I've had Cousins on the phone asking just what the hell I'm doing with all these T21's ;-)
I think a deburring of the top and bottom is what I missed after dremmelling out the I.D. I like the idea of a dab of soap to ease it on as well.
That's my job for tomorrow morning when the replacement arrives.
 
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Karbon74

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Yep, same from cousins. What's the I.D. on your bezel - if you have a moment please?
sorry. I thought you were asking for a reference number 😅 I understood later that you meant Internal Diameter 😂

I don't know, but it was a delicate one to fit.
I had to use the press and I heard freaky noises several times. I would not want to have to remove it now

What I did was that I pressed then rotated the watch 90° repeat four times in all.

edit: the T21 fit in super easy. set by hand, press 2/3 way. finish with a firm press with my palm. Towel cloth below the watch and on top of the crystal. Very satisfying "click"
 
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Karbon74

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@dpd3672
I was thinking again about the vinyl idea.
Do you thinking that we could freehand the cut with a precision scalpel?

The saltwater etching is imprecise anyway with the Q-tip method
 

dpd3672

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@dpd3672
I was thinking again about the vinyl idea.
Do you thinking that we could freehand the cut with a precision scalpel?

The saltwater etching is imprecise anyway with the Q-tip method
I'm sure it's possible, but you'd need pretty steady hands...like a surgeon's. The numbers are probably 1mm high and maybe .3mm wide.

I'm going to try to cut the vinyl with a laser etcher this week, hopefully it will produce good results.
 

Karbon74

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I'm sure it's possible, but you'd need pretty steady hands...like a surgeon's. The numbers are probably 1mm high and maybe .3mm wide.

I'm going to try to cut the vinyl with a laser etcher this week, hopefully it will produce good results.
another thought

Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! US $237.83 | SK-375T cutting plotter cuting width 375mm vinyl cutter plotter Usb high quality paper plotter 220V
 
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Karbon74

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and this one seems even more interesting

Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! US $151.83 40% Off | Wainlux Laser Engraver K6 Mark Printer Cutter Woodworking Machines Plastic 3000mw Bluetooth Mini Laser Engraving Marking Machine

I don't think it can directly engrave metal, but it can create the canvas to stick on the case
 

dpd3672

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another thought

Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! US $237.83 | SK-375T cutting plotter cuting width 375mm vinyl cutter plotter Usb high quality paper plotter 220V
I thought about one of those as well. I see all kinds of crafters using Cricut machines, and I think older models aren't terribly expensive...I just don't know how fine they're able to work. I think a laser cut would be more precise than a rotating blade used on these, but that's just a wild guess...I have no idea what they're capable of.