Tempus Machina 216a Project or bust

[RoXeW22]

Starting this thread to keep myself accountable to a franken Tempus Machina 216a project. Given there have been so few of these over the years, I figured I am the latest brave soul to try and make a go of this as I get sucked deeper into the rep game. After an initial thread about finding someone who could do the casework, I've decided to jump all-in!

I've always wanted a Submariner, but something with a little less visual weight; not having crown guards does make a difference. I considered the HS01, Artisans De Geneve one, but the 216a has the closest blueprint I plan to follow

Base Watch:​

GMF 216a Rep (from @sead1999)

Upon receiving the watch, I was a bit let down by the cloudy crystal, dull bezel numerals, loose bezel mechanism, and thick lugs. I was fine with the supplied crown, but it wasn't close to the 8mm Brevet crown it's supposed to replicate. I believe the one the rep uses is the same 8mm crown on the larger Yacht-Master, only with "Brevet" text.

Crystal​

Last year, I sent my watch into @rnrprof to be AR-coated. Since the Tempus Machina 216a comes with a custom domed sapphire crystal (as does the rep, but is less domed). Looking much better now that it's coated. It's been with him while I put this project on pause, but it's time to get it back and continue

Crown/Tube​

I've ordered a 8mm Brevet Crown and Tube from Athaya (I've read it's the best out there) -- will need to find someone to tap/install it

Bezel​

Gen Insert​

Like the HS01 and Artisans De Geneve model, the 216a has a modified red triangle with the pip removed. However, unlike the others, the red triangle is more 3-dimensional (not flat). See the below picture for reference. I decided to purchase a Gen Bezel Insert (and removed the pip) as I felt this would be more reliable than a VSF Bezel that I'd have to send off to get platinum-sputtered.



While I can't figure out how they did it, here's my method so far:

1. Used oven bake clay to create a base in the triangle area and fill the pip hole and add a little elevation
2. Add a layer(s) of enamel paint (Porcelaine 150) to try to create glossiness and 3D impression
3. Bake in the oven
4. Use filing sticks to try and shape the triangle (which makes it dull)
5. Notice errors, scrape off, and repeat steps #3-5

Unfortunately, it's been a frustrating process : I scratched up my Gen bezel with the filing sticks (I assumed the Cerachrom would be impervious to high-grit brushing
Every time I've added layers of enamel paint, sanding it down makes it dull, and the paint underneath continue to have bubbling. I haven't figured out yet how to create as smooth and clean of a finishing as the real 216a.

Here's my latest efforts (before and after sanding). I may just skip the sanding

Bezel Assembly​

I've bought gen click springs (from @Sub007) in the hopes they would improve the bezel mechanism. However, I need to find a more appropriate hytrel ring (don't want to resort to fishing line mod, and tried buying from Oascom, but that did not work out for complicated reasons)--open to suggestions here

What's Ahead (Seeking Advice from the Community)​

1. Modder who can do extensive casework?-- I need a watchsmith (preferably US-based) who can do complex casework--the lugs need to be thinned further than they currently are, and the chamfer enhanced
   1. I reached out to @Nikz19, as he's done similar work in the past, but he's EU-based and going through a difficult family situation right now
   2. I've ruled out doing the casework myself due to time/complexity
2. Customized Gilt Dial Design-- I'd like to replace the rep dial with a gilt dial eevntually, as the rep dial has gold markers VS gilt detailing
   1. I can handle creating the dial design myself
   2. However, I need someone who could print a true gilt dial -- Besides @manodeoro, who helped me with another project, is there anyone else recommended?
3. Hytrel Ring/Bezel Assembly -- What else can I do to ensure a strong bezel mechanism, and what are good sources for hytrel rings?
4. Movement Swap--I believe this comes with a VR3130, but I am hoping to swap for a VS3130
5. Franken Parts mismatch requiring a VSF 114060 watch and more extensive case modifications
   1. There's a chance that these gen parts won't work with the GMF watch, which would require a more complex workaround: Purchase a VSF 114060 and find someone who can shave the crownguards and create a modified coin edge bezel

 

[Feefo]

I think the vintage section may have some useful info and answers to your questions.
Good luck.

 

[KJ2020]

For your casework, @tripdog is your man. He's the ultimate master perfectionist modder. He's in France but I sent my TC to him from the US and had no shipping issues either way. You can see many examples of his work on the forum. There is nothing within the realm of possibility that he can't do.

For your insert triangle, I would try some different approaches. I've painted a lot of bezels and inserts both with spray and hand paint. Since you are only doing the triangle, you can (mostly) tape it off and do multiple spray coats to give you some curvature height. I say mostly because the triangle top is curved so that would be challenging to tape off though not impossible.

You can also try hand painting with a mix of thinner to build up the triangle well to level, then add a lower ratio of thinner (or no thinner) to a mix dropped on top to create a curve.

Another approach would be to use clear epoxy mixed with a colorant. I just finished doing this for a project where I wanted some black markers. I didn't need lume for this, though it can be mixed in also. I used graphite powder for my colorant. IDK what you would use for red but I think something could be found.

Drop the mix into the space with a tiny tip tool, and drag it to the corners. I used a broaching file. Let it settle a bit then you can add more drops to the middle and it will self level. A few minutes later after it and your mix harden up a bit, add a final few drops to make a curve bulge. You can turn it upside down for a few minutes to increase the bulge and keep it from overrunning the borders.

If you mess up, it can all be removed with acetone and a strong needle point. I had to redo these markers once due to overspill.

This is completely dry and rock hard.

Some links you might find useful

Ceramic insert paint mod

KJ2020 Paint Mod latest recommendation

Krylon spray mod

Turquoise and Meteorite GMT

Polish a Ceramic Insert

 

[Feefo]

For your casework, @tripdog is your man. He's the ultimate master perfectionist modder. He's in France but I sent my TC to him from the US and had no shipping issues either way. You can see many examples of his work on the forum. There is nothing within the realm of possibility that he can't do.

For your insert triangle, I would try some different approaches. I've painted a lot of bezels both with spray and hand paint. Since you are only doing the triangle, you can (mostly) tape it off and do multiple spray coats to give you some curvature height. I say mostly because the triangle top is curved so that would be challenging to tape off though not impossible.

You can also try hand painting with a mix of thinner to build up the triangle well to level, then add a lower ratio of thinner (or no thinner) to a mix dropped on top to create a curve.

Another approach would be to use clear epoxy mixed with a colorant. I just finished doing this for a project where I wanted some black markers. I didn't need lume for this, though it can be mixed in also. I used graphite powder for my colorant. IDK what you would use for red but I think something could be found.

Drop the mix into the space with a tiny tip tool, and drag it to the corners. I used a broaching file. Let it settle a bit then you can add more drops to the middle and it will self level. A few minutes later after it and your mix harden up a bit, add a final few drops to make a curve bulge. You can turn it upside down for a few minutes to increase the bulge and keep it from overrunning the borders.

If you mess up, it can all be removed with acetone and a strong needle point. I had to redo these markers once due to overspill.

This is completely dry and rock hard.

Some links you might find useful

Ceramic insert paint mod

KJ2020 Paint Mod latest recommendation

Krylon spray mod

Turquoise and Meteorite GMT

Polish a Ceramic Insert

Those black markers look really cool. Good job!

 

[Service]

For your casework, @tripdog is your man. He's the ultimate master perfectionist modder. He's in France but I sent my TC to him from the US and had no shipping issues either way. You can see many examples of his work on the forum. There is nothing within the realm of possibility that he can't do.

For your insert triangle, I would try some different approaches. I've painted a lot of bezels and inserts both with spray and hand paint. Since you are only doing the triangle, you can (mostly) tape it off and do multiple spray coats to give you some curvature height. I say mostly because the triangle top is curved so that would be challenging to tape off though not impossible.

You can also try hand painting with a mix of thinner to build up the triangle well to level, then add a lower ratio of thinner (or no thinner) to a mix dropped on top to create a curve.

Another approach would be to use clear epoxy mixed with a colorant. I just finished doing this for a project where I wanted some black markers. I didn't need lume for this, though it can be mixed in also. I used graphite powder for my colorant. IDK what you would use for red but I think something could be found.

Drop the mix into the space with a tiny tip tool, and drag it to the corners. I used a broaching file. Let it settle a bit then you can add more drops to the middle and it will self level. A few minutes later after it and your mix harden up a bit, add a final few drops to make a curve bulge. You can turn it upside down for a few minutes to increase the bulge and keep it from overrunning the borders.

If you mess up, it can all be removed with acetone and a strong needle point. I had to redo these markers once due to overspill.

This is completely dry and rock hard.

Some links you might find useful

Ceramic insert paint mod

KJ2020 Paint Mod latest recommendation

Krylon spray mod

Turquoise and Meteorite GMT

Polish a Ceramic Insert

Damn that looks awesome!

 

[Service]

Good luck on your watch OP.

 

[RoXeW22]

Bezel Insert Update!

Thanks @KJ2020 for reminding me of @tripdog (who is already helping me with another project of mine). I've definitely come across some of your past threads on bezel work before, but appreciate you consolidating them for me here If I ever get this entire build finished, I may just send off my insert for you to be polished, if you'd oblige

Tremendous work (!) on the black markers and different approaches with epoxy and thinner. As I didn't have any spray painting equipment, I felt some hand-painting or similar was the way to go. I wasn't crazy about epoxy with colorant (which I am familiar with from hologramet's 216a build thread on RWG).

My original plan was to sculpt the clay triangle to be exactly how I wanted it, then bake it. But I quickly learned I lack the skills to sculpt the clay (given how small it is) with precision, and wasn't sure how much of a polish I could get from the clay. Hence the porcelaine paint layer to finish.

The triangle challenge is two-fold. Filling in that depression properly, then being able to create a curved triangle.

So I'm going to remind myself that perfect is the enemy of good and call it done with my latest (5th) attempt. Though not as sculpted or as nicely finished as the real deal, it does have adequate curve/dimension/shape/height that it's about 90% of where I wanted it to be. One day, I'd love to figure out how Tempus Machina was able to finish the triangle edges so cleanly (my hunch is they had a custom mold), but I'd much rather have this triangle than the HS01/Blaken/AdG Vintage Submariner Triangles -- which were lackluster to me.

For your casework, @tripdog is your man. He's the ultimate master perfectionist modder. He's in France but I sent my TC to him from the US and had no shipping issues either way. You can see many examples of his work on the forum. There is nothing within the realm of possibility that he can't do.

For your insert triangle, I would try some different approaches. I've painted a lot of bezels and inserts both with spray and hand paint. Since you are only doing the triangle, you can (mostly) tape it off and do multiple spray coats to give you some curvature height. I say mostly because the triangle top is curved so that would be challenging to tape off though not impossible.

You can also try hand painting with a mix of thinner to build up the triangle well to level, then add a lower ratio of thinner (or no thinner) to a mix dropped on top to create a curve.

Another approach would be to use clear epoxy mixed with a colorant. I just finished doing this for a project where I wanted some black markers. I didn't need lume for this, though it can be mixed in also. I used graphite powder for my colorant. IDK what you would use for red but I think something could be found.

Drop the mix into the space with a tiny tip tool, and drag it to the corners. I used a broaching file. Let it settle a bit then you can add more drops to the middle and it will self level. A few minutes later after it and your mix harden up a bit, add a final few drops to make a curve bulge. You can turn it upside down for a few minutes to increase the bulge and keep it from overrunning the borders.

If you mess up, it can all be removed with acetone and a strong needle point. I had to redo these markers once due to overspill.

This is completely dry and rock hard.

Some links you might find useful

Ceramic insert paint mod

KJ2020 Paint Mod latest recommendation

Krylon spray mod

Turquoise and Meteorite GMT

Polish a Ceramic Insert

 

[RoXeW22]

My perfectionism laughs in the face of my last bezel triangle efforts

I could not leave well-enough alone, so I've decided to work on the bezel triangle (again). I've now spent another $45 buying additional high-grit polishing sticks and tools (all the way up to 10,000 Grit), in the hopes that I can fine-tune the shaping of the triangle. My poor gen bezel continues to get a little scratched up, but alas.

Pivoting with the Base

I've decided to change my base donor watch from the GMF 216a rep (currently with @rnrprof) to using a VSF 114060. The simple reason is that the bezel broke when Prof was tweaking it for me, and it's been near impossible to find a replacement, since the bezel insert is not 114060 gen-spec. A big thank you to @Alex22 for selling me his VSF and to @tripdog for agreeing to do the casework (eliminate crown guards, thin lugs, add chamfer, drill lug holes).

Next step would be to order 8mm Brevet Crowns from Athaya and have them installed as part of the casework.

Yet, I've made the build a bit tougher because of this new VSF base (I can see why everyone preaches patience here):

1. Crystal -- A custom domed sapphire gen-spec crystal would be amazing...but I have zero clue how to go about getting there
2. Bezel -- I either need to find someone who can create a custom coin-edge bezel, or will just have to settle for the stock VSF Bezel as-is (@KJ2020 has given me some names that I've already reached out to, so I may have some progress to report back in the near future!)
3. Caseback -- The Tempus Machina Rep has some custom engravings on the back, but I'm probably not wedded to that caseback any more

While I figure out the above, if anyone has suggestions on the following, it would be great:

1. Where can I source Gen or VSF Bezel (and assemblies) for the 114060? And are they compatible / exactly the same as 116610 parts? Have seen conflicting things on the forums
2. Besides Prof, does anyone know how to go about procuring custom domed sapphire crystals that would be gen-spec?

My next post will hopefully be my definitive bezel triangle update -- stay tuned...

PS -- if anyone is interested in buying a GMF 216a with a Double-AR Prof Crystal and Broken Insert -- I'll have it up for sale in the near future.

 

[RoXeW22]

Bezel Triangle Update
After another 7-8 attempts, I finally settled on a bezel triangle result I am proud of. While it sits up a few mm from the insert (it was impossible to grind it down nearly flush with the insert without ruining it), I like the dimensionality and contours of it.



Bezel Update
I've been told by a few members that while the VSF 114060/116610 bezel assemblies are the same, the Gen Ones have slight differences in specifications. As I've had no luck sourcing a Gen 114060 Bezel, I've decided to use the stock VSF 114060 Bezel as a template to modify. Stay tuned as I try to find a way to create a custom coin-edge bezel.

Crystal
I'm currently asking Prof how viable a custom domed gen-spec sapphire crystal would be. I have a feeling that if the costs and feasibility are too much, I might just get a flat treated Prof Crystal. I can't really think of any other options, but open to suggestions!

Hybrid Movement -- Need some help here
I'd like to modify the VS3130 to make it reliable and high-performing. While many here seem to only buy genuine movement parts to franken, I've struggled to justify that, given how expensive parts can be, especially if new/blistered. I could buy used gen parts on eBay, but as @WatchSmith.US can attest to -- it can be a bit of a minefield. Hence my middle-ground solution: Use the highest grade aftermarket parts for 3130 movement from StarTime, and selectively purchase some gen parts here and there. I've scoured the forums trying to figure out what parts would be most useful for performance. Seems to be the keyless works, automatic module etc. Let me know if there's any parts you all think I should add:

• StarTime Aftermarket Swiss Parts
  • 3135-204 Winding Pinion
  • 3135-205 Sliding Pinion Wheel / Clutch Wheel
  • 3135-212 Swiss Intermediate Crown Wheel Core
  • 3135-217 Swiss Sliding Gear
  • 3130-240 Swiss Yoke (no-date)
  • 3135-280 Hour Wheel
  • 3135-421 Pallet Fork
  • 3135 - Mainspring
• Genuine Parts (all picked up from a local watchsmith except for the Automatic works)
  • 3135-145 Automatic Works Module
  • 3135-315 Barrel Complete (without Mainspring)
  • 3135-260 Minute Wheel
  • 3135-340 Third Wheel

I know some people go for the gen free-sprung balance bridge / parachrom hairspring ,but I'm having trouble justifying spending another $1200 on just those parts alone.