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Some Wristwatch Terminology
- Thread starter daytona4me
- Start date
daytona4me said:It seems as though we go through a cycle of questions on what __?__ something means.
Below are a couple of the common questions that I have been asked, I have taken this information from chronocentric dot_com as they have put it in far better words than I would probably use.
I included some more detailed information on the differences between a Chronometer and a Chronograph as I beleive many do not know the differences.. Also.. a recent topic of interest,, What makes a watch Swiss Made?
Feel free to post some additional definitions and I'll add it to the list in alphabetical order.
What is the difference between a Chronometer and a Chronograph?
These two similar terms are both used with watches and are easily confused.
The simple answer is that a chronometer is a certified accurate timepiece, a chronograph is a timepiece with stopwatch functions. So for any watch, one, both, or neither terms may apply.
Chronograph
Any watch with stopwatch functions can be called a chronograph. This has nothing to do with any measurement of accuracy, it is merely a statement that the watch has this function.
In watch industry terms, the elapsed time measurement functions of a chronograph are some of the many 'complications' beyond the basic timekeeping functions of a watch mechanism. Even watches with quartz movements may implement these complications through mechanical gears, wheels, and dials. Other watch complications include date indicators, alarms, moon phase displays, multiple time zone features, and other time-related measurements shown with additional hands, windows, or sub-dials on the watch.
Chronometer
The first need for very accurate timepieces came from ships needing precision timekeeping to allow precise celestial navigation. The term chronometer came in to use to describe timepieces accurate enough for ship navigation. In 1973, the Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometeres (COSC) came in to existence as the official testing and certification control board.
Now, only a watch whose movement has been certified by COSC can be called a chronometer. For a typical men's-sized mechanical watch movement, it must have stayed within -4 to +6 seconds of variation per day during the COSC measurement at various temperatures and positions.
COSC also certifies quartz movements (their standard is +/-0.2 second per day for these). But since quartz movements are inherently very accurate and suffer little to no variation based on position or normal temperature ranges, certification is much less significant to buyers of quartz movement watches. Almost no watchmakers go to the expense to have COSC certify their quartz movements.
A chronometer certificate is not a guarantee of future accuracy. Watch movements that have been certified can get out of adjustment and perform poorly. Movements that were not certified may still exceed the COSC standards--the manufacturer may simply have simply chosen to bypass the expense of the certification process.
What exactly constitutes a "Swiss Made" watch?
Swiss law is very specific on what points of origin and assembly are permissible in watches that are labeled "Swiss Made." In specific, the law:
...requires that the assembly work on the movement (the motor of the watch) and on the watch itself (fitting the movement with the dial, hands and the various parts of the case) should be carried out in Switzerland, along with the final testing of the movement. It also requires that at least 50% of the components of the movement should be manufactured in Switzerland.
So it is permissible for the movements in Swiss watches to contain a minority portion of parts made outside Switzerland. But the majority of movement parts must come from Switzerland AND and the entire movement and watch must be entirely assembled in Switzerland.
The watch casing and separate or detachable items, such as watch bracelets, do not have to be manufactured in Switzerland. But the "foreign" parts must be delivered to Switzerland unassembled, with actual assembly of them into a watch occurring on Swiss soil.
Other provisions allow for watches where the movement meets the criteria, but the watch is assembled outside of Switzerland to be labeled "Swiss Movement" on the dial. The abbreviation "Swiss Movt" is strictly prohibited, because to someone without superior vision or a magnifier, such a dial label could easily be mistaken for reading "Swiss Made."
8
Many calendar watches in professional photographs will have the date set to 8. It has no major significance other than being a nice looking, symmetrical number.
10:10
Many watches in professional photographs will have the time set to 10:10, with the second hand likely at 24, 37, or 45. It has no major significance other than the 10:10 being a happy looking presentation of the watch face, This combination, including the placement of the second hand is also intended to ensure none of the hands cross each other or block any of the important information the dial. In rare cases, you will see a complicated watch, such as a chronograph, photographed with the hands in an 'impossible' position--one staged for the photograph, but not possible to occur in the normal operation of the watch.
12 hour versus 24 hour clocks
Most watches and clocks have 12-hour displays even though days are 24 hours long. Only a few rare models have 24 hour dials, though 24 hour display modes on digital watches are pretty common. 'GMT' watches typically have one hand that operates on a 12 hour basis to display local time plus a 24 hour hand to display a second time zone.
Before there were clocks, people used sundials to measure time. Since sundials only work during the half of the day where there is daylight, sundial dials were marked to only show the 12 daylight hours. When mechanical timepieces came into popularity, they typically used the same 12 hour format to be familiar to people used to telling time from sundials. Back then, few people dealt with anything other than local time, so day and night were pretty obvious. It was not until many years later than trans-timezone travel and communication would occur rapidly enough to cause 12/24 hour confusion. By then, the 12-hour clock dial was so prevalent, it remained the standard.
555, 750, 925...
an indication of the purity (similar to the Karat rating) of the metal used. The meaning of this number is the parts per thousand of the pure metal in the alloy used. For a more detailed explanation, see Karat below.
Authorized Dealer
a watch seller who is officially sanctioned by the manufacturer. Watches that they sell will have full manufacturer warranties. Also, should you have any difficulties with an authorized dealer, you have the option to get the manufacturer to intervene on your behalf. Also see Unauthorized Dealer below.
Automatic
refers to mechanical watch movements that wind themselves from the wearer's physical activity. For more detail, see the two types, Bumper Automatic and Rotor Automatic.
Balance
the most critical moving part of a mechanical watch movement. This includes the balance wheel that rapidly spins back and forth and the balance lever. The lever is the ratchet mechanism that makes the characteristic 'tick' sound as it converts the balance wheel's motion into the precisely regulated increments of movement that run the watch.
Band
a vague, generic term used to refer to the band that holds a watch on your wrist. The preferred terms are Bracelet or Strap, which clearly describe the two major types.
Battery-less Quartz
also known under various marketing names, including Kinetic (Seiko), Omega-matic (Omega), and Autoquartz (Invicta). Terms for the modern hybrid watch technology of using a quartz movement powered by a small electric current generator operated by a rotor. Electricity generated from the rotor's movement is stored in a capacitor, rechargeable battery, or similar means to keep the watch running. So, like an automatic watch, these also must be worn regularly to keep up their electrical power reserve.
Bezel
generically, the upper part of the watch body. Specifically, it usually refers to a ring around the outside of the crystal. On jewelry watches, the bezel may contain a ring of diamonds. On sports watches, the bezel may have calibrated markings and the ability to rotate in one or both directions.
Bracelet
a metal link watch band. Similar to a jewelry bracelet, may have a clasp to open it.
Bumper Automatic
a type of watch movement found only in vintage watches. It is similar to the rotor automatic which winds the watch based on the wearer's movements. The difference with the bumper automatic is the weight may have only a 180 degree or less path of movement--hitting a small bumper at each end of its path of travel.
Chapter Ring
The term chapter ring refers to the ring above the dial in a watch that is a separate piece from the dial and watch case. You can see the chapter ring here in this Seiko, and then with the chapter ring modified by removing the hashes as seen here.
Here you can see where the original chapter ring with minute marks has been replaced by an aluminum chapter ring.
Certified Chronometer
another term for Chronometer. This somewhat redundant phrase is used to make it clear to watch buyers that 'chronometer' is a certification. Also see Chronometer.
Chronometer
a watch or clock movement certified accurate by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (Swiss Chronometer Control Board). Also see COSC and the article on Accuracy.
Clasp
the fastener or catch used to open and close a watch bracelet. Also see Deployant Clasp.
COSC
is the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (Swiss Chronometer Control Board). They are the official Swiss agency that certifies all watch movements that bear the internationally recognized and protected status of "Chronometer." Also see Chronometer and the section on Accuracy.
Crown
the knob on a watch - often at the 3 o'clock position - used for winding and setting the watch.
Crystal
the glass front of a watch. Often made of a mineral glass or acrylic, but on many finer watches, it is a synthetic sapphire which is very hard to scratch.
Deployant Clasp often misspelled "deployment "
a clasp mechanism for use with watch straps. This allows a leather or other watch strap to operate similar to a watch bracelet. This gives a nicer, more finished appearance than the traditional tang-type buckle on most straps. Sometimes mistakenly called a 'deployment' clasp.
Ebauche
A base watch movement. Often, manufacturers will make custom modifications to the base movement to add complications (features), decorate the movement, and electroplate or upgrade certain parts for added durability.
Gray Market
refers to unauthorized sellers of new watches. For more information, see the major section on Gray Market Watches.
Hack
the feature on many mechanical movement watches that stops the second hand when you pull the crown all the way out to set the time. This makes it much easier to set a mechanical watch precisely to the second when synching with a time signal or known accurate clock. Older watches less commonly have this feature. To simulate the hack feature on many watches that don't have it, pull the crown out to the time setting position, then try gently turning the crown backwards. This puts a small amount of back pressure on the watch movement, which may stop the second hand long enough for you to synchronize it with another clock.
Incabloc
A method of shock protection for a wristwatch movement, developed in the 1930's. Other named techniques for shock protection include Parachoc, Kif, Unisafe and Novochoc. Incabloc prevents shock damage by allowing the jeweled balance of the watch to move laterally and vertically within a spring-mounted setting. Incabloc is used by many movements including most modern ETA and Omega movements. See also 'Kif' below.
Jewels
are elements used in mechanical watches. Usually a very inexpensive form of synthetic ruby, these are used for virtually frictionless pivots or hubs at certain critical places int the watch mechanism. These jewels are worth only pennies and do not add any monetary value to a watch. It is also important to understand that more jewels does not necessarily make a better watch. While too few can certainly be a problem, the exact number needed for optimal performance depends on the specific design and features of the movement. Overall, 17 jewels is the lowest number needed for most standard mechanical watch movements. Others movements that implement different designs, or complications such a chronographs, may use more. But a novice cannot derive useful basis of evaluation or comparison from whether a watch has 17, 21, 25 or more jewels.
Keeper
the one or two loops included on watch straps, used to help hold any extra part of the strap protruding past the buckle.
Kif
A method of shock protection for a wristwatch movement, developed in the 1930's. Other named techniques for shock protection include Parachoc, Incabloc, Unisafe and Novochoc. Kif is the shock protection system used several watch makers, including Rolex. See also 'Incabloc' above.
Lugs
the four protrusions on a typical watch case used to attach a bracelet or strap.
Manual-wind
is pretty much self explanatory--it refers to a watch movement that you have to manually wind it every day or two to keep it running. This is the oldest method of powering a watch. While much less common today, manual-wind watches are still available from a number of finer watch manufacturers.
Minute Repeater
a special complication found on a few very high end mechanical watches and some more affordable quartz watches. On the major quarters of the hour, or when activated by the wearer, the watch chimes the current time. The minute-repeater chiming pattern uses a mid-note for each hour, followed by a high-mid note pair for each quarter hour, and if chiming a time between the quarters, adds a high-note for each minute past the quarter hour. So a time like 2:22 would chime as: "dong, dong, ding-dong, ding, ding, ding, ding, ding, ding, ding."
NOS or New Old Stock
items that are older but still technically considered new as they have never been used or sold to a customer. Often these are unsold watches, watch bracelets or other parts that have been in a store's inventory or warehouse for a long time--often for years or decades after that model has been discontinued by the manufacturer. Sometimes improperly used by watch sellers on auction sites to describe watches that are older but still look vaguely in 'like new' condition.
Power Reserve
a measure of the amount of time a watch will run after being fully powered or wound, with no additional power input. Normally, this means when a mechanical watch is fully wound or a quartz watch has a brand new battery. Many modern mechanical watches have a power reserve of 40 hours. Power reserve also applies to battery-less quartz watches, which may have power reserves from 40 hours to 6 months. On battery-operated quartz watches, the term is sometimes used to refer to the expected battery life--typically 12 to 32 months. For more information, see the Fine Wristwatch Owner's Guide section on Why does my automatic watch run down in less than its stated Power Reserve?.
Rehaut
A small ring found between the the dial face and the bottom of the crystal. It is usually a silver color and if not the right size it will make it easy to tell that a watch is a replica.
Rotor Automatic
the most common form of automatic watch, and pretty much the only type manufactured today. In it, a weight inside the back of the watch has a 360 degree free path of rotation. Activity of the wearer causes the rotor to move. Its movement in one or both directions (depending on the exact watch movement) winds the watch.
Self-Winding
see Automatic above, which is the preferred term.
Strap
a watch band made of cloth, rubber, leather or other non-metal material.
Superlative Chronometer
another term for Chronometer. The use of the word Superlative in front of the industry standard term Chronometer is a Rolex trademark to give more panache to their product. But the term Superlative is merely fluff. There is only one grade of chronometer. Any watch bearing the any form of Chronometer designation has been certified by the same agency (COSC) and to the exact same standards as any other Chronometer. So the terms 'Superlative Chronometer' and 'Certified Chronometer' and 'Chronometer' all mean the exact same thing. Also see Chronometer.
Tantalum
a metal with a texture similar to titanium, but a color similar to gold. Used by Omega for the gold-like trim on certain titanium watches. Many of these watches are also available in titanium with real gold trim.
Turbillon
a special complication found on only a few very high end mechanical watches that compensates for the effect of gravity. This eliminates the small variation in watch movement performance based on the position of the watch (face up, face down, on side, etc.).
Unauthorized Dealer
a watch seller who is selling a particular brand of watches, but without being officially sanctioned by the manufacturer. These are typically dealers that buy the watches through indirect, closeout or 'back door' channels. Since they have no direct business relationship with the watch manufacturer, the manufacturer cannot ensure the quality of product or service the dealer provides. Further, any official factory warranties form the manufacturer are voided on watches bought through these unofficial 'back door' dealers. The warranties that such dealers promise are their own warranty coverage, not the manufacturer's factory warranty. Also see Authorized Dealer above.
Watch Winder
a powered device that rotates an automatic watch to keep it wound and running when not on a person's wrist. See the major section Watch Winders for more information.
Waterproof
a term no longer used because it incorrectly implied a more complete resistance to water entry than such watches were actually capable of. See Water Resistant.
Water Resistant
a designation indicating a watch has been tested to resist entry of water into its casing based on static pressure tests. For more information, see the major section on Water Resistance.
Great ,thank u very much. [smilie=angel10.gif]
Great post, thanks for taking the time to compile this. As I'm slowly absorbing the terminology and building an appreciation for
watches mechanical intricacies. I'm sure alot of people here have an interest in replicas derived from their appreciation of the craft involved in producing quality timepieces and indeed have gens as well as reps. Learning alot thanks to stumbling across this forum and prob saving stress and money too. Learning everything about eta next ..can feel my eyebrows growing already..
watches mechanical intricacies. I'm sure alot of people here have an interest in replicas derived from their appreciation of the craft involved in producing quality timepieces and indeed have gens as well as reps. Learning alot thanks to stumbling across this forum and prob saving stress and money too. Learning everything about eta next ..can feel my eyebrows growing already..
PLease excuse this reply as useless. I need to get my post count to 50 before I can sell a watch that I bought on THIS SITE ? ? ?
ac/dc said:
We can excuse you for being banned. Oh wait, you can't reply anymore.
Leave the posting to useful members that like to contribute with actual posts rather than by selling.
Thank you for the excellent post :!:
What does seconds at 6 or 3 mean?
And am I right to assume most rep chronos do not function unless they are quartz?
You guys throw around movement numbers like they are common knowledge ( hey I am a car guy and this is all new to me) Modded movements,spaced movements, from what I gather it all has to do with how the sub dials are spaced...and that has nothing to do with the different date wheels...wow :!:
What does seconds at 6 or 3 mean?
And am I right to assume most rep chronos do not function unless they are quartz?
You guys throw around movement numbers like they are common knowledge ( hey I am a car guy and this is all new to me) Modded movements,spaced movements, from what I gather it all has to do with how the sub dials are spaced...and that has nothing to do with the different date wheels...wow :!:
daytona4me said:
This is also spelled wrong if you care at all
or maybe I don't know something and this is actually the correct way to spell it!
lightningbefore said:daytona4me said:
This is also spelled wrong if you care at all
You bumped this thread just to correct someone on a one-letter spelling mistake? :?
I think these watches term is very useful, thanks for your sharinghttp://forum.replica-watch.info/vb/newreply.php?do=postreply&t=16702
Can someone please answer to this question.
I´m sorry that I bumped an old thread but I allso really want to know what it meens.
Since I am about to buy a Rolex Daytona with the Asian 7750 movement, and some helpful guys here has warned me about this movement since it has the seconds at the wrong place, I really wonder what that meens.