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SH3135 Essential Upgrades

watchservicesny

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Never got problem with it yet, but suggest to use gen escape wheel as well


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d.brocke

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Priceless experience and information shared here by some of the "Masters of the Game".
And this is what makes this hobby and community such a pleasure to be a part of.

My question in all of this is: occb2 misiekped lpl pompompurin

....with all the gen and higher quality aftermarket parts that seem to work on/improve these cloned 3135 movements, aside from the balance and hairspring how does one confirm whether or not they've actually purchased a gen. Cal.3135 and not a skillfully "frankened" SH/Yuki 3135 ?
 

2fake4u

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Priceless experience and information shared here by some of the "Masters of the Game".
And this is what makes this hobby and community such a pleasure to be a part of.

My question in all of this is: occb2 misiekped lpl pompompurin

....with all the gen and higher quality aftermarket parts that seem to work on/improve these cloned 3135 movements, aside from the balance and hairspring how does one confirm whether or not they've actually purchased a gen. Cal.3135 and not a skillfully "frankened" SH/Yuki 3135 ?

bridge finish is different, plate finish is different, gears/wheels finish is different.

although, hard to compare unless you have both side by side or have seen a lot of one or the other.
 
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occb2

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I thought he meant with it closed. That is why I said open it and look at the balance even though he said balance aside.

When a SH3135 is done well. Clean and oiled and all part changed that cause the date flip issue and the stiffness of winding and calendar issues the only way too see is too open it.

You will see in 2 seconds. The auto winding wheels are crap. The finish is crap. They use studs only on date plate when Rolex uses one jewel and then studs. There are ton of give aways.

The over all quality is better. This is why the movement is so cheap compared to a real one.

But with proper upgrades, I have one running now for over 3 years with out issues. Some have ones running a lot longer than that.

I was stupid because I wanted a real 3135 built by me, by hand, I collected every part but the main plate, new sealed. I even got full set or Rolex screw kits sealed. They are for a 3155 which give me a few extra but still I wanted ever part Rolex. But after building it and it ran amazing, I sold it 6 months later for a brand new one too put in my hulk. Wish I kept it. LOL.

I have enough parts here to build another 3135. But need them for my projects. But I do notice I need some parts like winding wheels and that stupid jewel that goes on the date flipping gear. I am going to get like 10 of each! I am tired of them disappearing when I clean the movements. LOL. I am sure it is my fault but need them.

So best thing too do is like 2fake said. Open it up and look at the crappy finish. Fastest is the balance, then the reversing wheels then the bridges. There are some more technical things like stone holders on real rolex where Yuki just presses them in. But you get it. Just pay attention too details.
 
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d.brocke

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Thanks guys.
It's members like Dan and Rob here that make it a pleasure to belong.

Yes...of course I meant opening the case back.
I'm no pro....not even close...but I've seen enough of them to look at the gears and the balance/bridge to spot differences.

So while they've seemed to do an amazing job cloning the 3135, they've not yet been able to replicate the genuine balance bridge and spring ?
occb2 and 2fake4u

Will a genuine 3135 120 and 432 balance bridge and balance spring fit any of the clone main plates ?
Or is it not the plate but the actual precision build design of the genuine bridge and balance that prevents the cloning of that as well ?
 
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occb2

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It fits but stalls. I have only tried it once. I was told it did work by the guy who was showing me. He said he got it to beat for like 10 seconds and it stalled. I tried it for heck sake. I used a rolex Pallet fork and got the spring lined up and in there. I twisted the balance and got it in place. I tightened the two screws. The balance was free and clear. I started by winding and nothing. I manually manipulated the wheel and it went for a few seconds and stopped. If you are asking me the logic. I cant answer. Give me a few years. Maybe I can answer then.

Rob
 
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um52

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When replacing the whole auto winding assembly does that replace any parts on the "essential" list created besides the reversing wheels. I am going to be replacing the SH one with a Gen and am not sure what parts I don't have to order
 

um52

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When replacing the whole auto winding assembly does that replace any parts on the "essential" list created besides the reversing wheels. I am going to be replacing the SH one with a Gen and am not sure what parts I don't have to order

Basically what individual parts make an Autowind Assembly?

occb2 2fake4u
 

um52

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you can just buy the entire autowind assembly for $300-400 on ebay. Cheaper and easier.

otherwise, here. http://www.phfactor.net/wtf/Rolex/1055_Rolex 3135 NEW.pdf


Oh that I understand. What I was trying to ask is I am buying an entire winding assembly but of the parts mentioned in this thread does the assembly eliminate the need to buy them separately. I know the reversing wheels but are there any others?

To address Date Issue:
3135-614 Date Jumper
3135-645 Date Corrector
3135-204 Winding Pinon
3135-625 Date Wheel Mounted
3135-623 Finger for Date

To make it more "reliable":
3135-540 (x2) Reversing Wheels
3135-600 Date Indicator Seating
3135-670 Intermediate Date Wheel
3135-205 Sliding Pinion Wheel / Clutch Wheel
3135-280 Hour Wheel
 

occb2

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Like 2fake said. The reversing wheels are what I would replace. I do replace all of the parts because a set of reversing wheels can be up too 200 dollars and the whole bridge at one point was going for $300. So for the extra $ I got all the gears, jewels, oscillating weight and pinion and full bridge with nice rolex engraving. But truthfully if you can get a set of reversing wheels for a good price its a great upgrade.
 

Xander22

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Hi guys. New to the rep game. Got my first rep and it's an ARF DJ36 with SH3135 movement.

Brought it to be serviced but the watch repair guy said the insides were ok. No need to service. Only issue was that the automatic movement was not working very well. Video here: http://youtu.be/9rbOHQlRZjc

He removed the back casing and saw one screw was not screwed in. Took out the movement, looked at it and put it on the timegrapher. It's keeping time very well.

He has not worked with this movement before but he recommended replacing the 2 reversing wheels as well as the driving wheel for ratchet wheel.

From reading the posts, I see that the reversing wheels are a common issue but how about the driving wheel for ratchet wheel? 3135-510

I've searched ebay for these parts and the gen parts are so expensive. I've seen some aftermarket generic alternatives but I'm not sure if these are any better than the ones with the SH3135.

My 2 questions are:
1. Do I need to change the 3135-510?
2. Which parts do I need to get Gen and which parts are ok with aftermarket?

By the way, here are the items I've found on eBay.


​​​​​​https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.it/ulk/itm/302794956643

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.it/ulk/itm/302798349658 - not sure if this is gen or aftermarket

Any other parts I should definitely look to changing? Just want the watch to be reliable and run for a long time.

​​​​​​​Thanks in advance .
 
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Xander22

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Thanks. We are talking about gen here right? The 2nd eBay link I posted is for the reversing wheels. How can we tell if that is gen?
 

ginopino

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yes of course, gen... and you will solve the problem.
Those wheels are particular because on the gen the material of the wheel is purple ... on the yuki/sh they are painted in purple... and you'll see at a glanche... :)
 
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Hinclimincli

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yes of course, gen... and you will solve the problem.
Those wheels are particular because on the gen the material of the wheel is purple ... on the yuki/sh they are painted in purple... and you'll see at a glanche... :)

The genuine Rolex are teflon coated, while the replica ones are simply painted. Also the material is better on the gen ones, and the gears are better machined. This has serious implications that can mess up your movement pretty quickly:

1. The wear & tear on the rep happens faster, as the metal is softer.
2. Once the wheels have some wear and tear, they will start generating friction with the other parts and the paint will fall off, sending tiny flakes of paint inside the movement. I don't need to explain how terrible is that for a movement with lots of tiny gears...

So, yep, if you want it to last for more than a year, get a pair of genuine reversing wheels. Sometimes getting the full assembly is a very cost effective solution too as it comes with the two wheels and the plate which is of very good quality.
 
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