Hey all,
So I'm not going to act like I'm an expert but I was speaking with occb2 and ado213 with regards to essential part upgrades for a SH3135 without crossing that threshold where you might as well as go gen 3135 calibre. Of course, gen parts will always be better but for those are stuck with one or want to use one, hopefully this will serve as a good reference/framework to help decide and also as the threads I searched for across here, RWG etc. were mostly inclined towards the older Yuki's. I've read a good service is the base minimum needed but to try and improve the % of reliability, even if only for a few years at most, is better than it crapping out. Of course, there's no guarantee, but hey ho, better to try and give it some TLC now rather than rely on medipak's later.
The below is what I have ordered thus far - mostly new in blister and rest either NOS or used/new. This listy below is based on my specific questions to occb and ado.
* 540 Reversing Wheels x2
* 625 Date Wheel
* 600 Date Indicator Seating w/ screws
* 614 Date Jumper
* 623 Date Finger
* 421 Pallet Fork
To give some ideas on the above list, below are extracts from conversations with Rob who thankfully gave me some of his free time to help me (hope you don't mind me posting):
If your alignment on the date is off then it’s the date finger spring and date correcting wheel which I change in every sh3135 as I also change the date plate itself part number 3135-600.
There really is no need to change the whole auto winding bridge. Just the reversing wheels and maybe pinion if it is bad.
Now Yuki had issues with the same things the SH3135 did with the intermediate date wheel stripping and also the date correcting wheel. So between 10PM and 2 AM it would put a lot of pressure on the intermediate date wheel and would strip it. Now the SH3135 is the same main plate as a Yuki so it suffers the same issues. Now JF had a different date wheel and I think that is why the main date plate 3135-600 is smaller. While their date wheel fits, a real one will jam. Easy fix is to either trim the date wheel, which I would never do. File the SH plate and remove the jewel that is there to hold the date wheel in place, which also works. Or buy a real Rolex 3135-600 part. That is what I do. Makes life so much easier and they can be had for under 200 bucks.
Good thing is the SH3135 did a lot of improvements on the reversing wheels. While they are still not Rolex quality they are better than the worn ones that came with the Yuki. Also Yuki almost always came with bent hand pinions. Sh3135 seem too be ok. Also Yuki use to sometimes jump 2 days when the date would flip. That has been corrected with the SH3135.
They are still dirty and dry as hell when we get them from china and need a good cleaning and oiling. They do use sub-par metals than Rolex but a nice serviced Yuki or Sh3135 can run you 5 years. Heck I have one in a watch I made that is running now on 3 years and still keeps perfect time. Yes it has about $900 in Rolex parts but the main plate and balance and train wheels and pallet and pretty much what is the heart of the watch are all still china.
Adrian suggested I may need a Pallet Fork (421) as "SH/Yuki 3135 pallet jewels are not usually set correctly in the pallet forks" but can't say until he see's seen my movement. I purchased it anyway el oh el wallet.
If anyone else wants to chip in feel free on essentials. I've read on older yuki's things like Mechanism Cover, H/M/S Wheels, Yoke Srping etc. are essentials, would these still be relevant for today's SH3135s? This is not intended to be who is right but more as a knowledgebase and worst case scenario, it only benefits me
So I'm not going to act like I'm an expert but I was speaking with occb2 and ado213 with regards to essential part upgrades for a SH3135 without crossing that threshold where you might as well as go gen 3135 calibre. Of course, gen parts will always be better but for those are stuck with one or want to use one, hopefully this will serve as a good reference/framework to help decide and also as the threads I searched for across here, RWG etc. were mostly inclined towards the older Yuki's. I've read a good service is the base minimum needed but to try and improve the % of reliability, even if only for a few years at most, is better than it crapping out. Of course, there's no guarantee, but hey ho, better to try and give it some TLC now rather than rely on medipak's later.
The below is what I have ordered thus far - mostly new in blister and rest either NOS or used/new. This listy below is based on my specific questions to occb and ado.
* 540 Reversing Wheels x2
* 625 Date Wheel
* 600 Date Indicator Seating w/ screws
* 614 Date Jumper
* 623 Date Finger
* 421 Pallet Fork
To give some ideas on the above list, below are extracts from conversations with Rob who thankfully gave me some of his free time to help me (hope you don't mind me posting):
If your alignment on the date is off then it’s the date finger spring and date correcting wheel which I change in every sh3135 as I also change the date plate itself part number 3135-600.
There really is no need to change the whole auto winding bridge. Just the reversing wheels and maybe pinion if it is bad.
Now Yuki had issues with the same things the SH3135 did with the intermediate date wheel stripping and also the date correcting wheel. So between 10PM and 2 AM it would put a lot of pressure on the intermediate date wheel and would strip it. Now the SH3135 is the same main plate as a Yuki so it suffers the same issues. Now JF had a different date wheel and I think that is why the main date plate 3135-600 is smaller. While their date wheel fits, a real one will jam. Easy fix is to either trim the date wheel, which I would never do. File the SH plate and remove the jewel that is there to hold the date wheel in place, which also works. Or buy a real Rolex 3135-600 part. That is what I do. Makes life so much easier and they can be had for under 200 bucks.
Good thing is the SH3135 did a lot of improvements on the reversing wheels. While they are still not Rolex quality they are better than the worn ones that came with the Yuki. Also Yuki almost always came with bent hand pinions. Sh3135 seem too be ok. Also Yuki use to sometimes jump 2 days when the date would flip. That has been corrected with the SH3135.
They are still dirty and dry as hell when we get them from china and need a good cleaning and oiling. They do use sub-par metals than Rolex but a nice serviced Yuki or Sh3135 can run you 5 years. Heck I have one in a watch I made that is running now on 3 years and still keeps perfect time. Yes it has about $900 in Rolex parts but the main plate and balance and train wheels and pallet and pretty much what is the heart of the watch are all still china.
Adrian suggested I may need a Pallet Fork (421) as "SH/Yuki 3135 pallet jewels are not usually set correctly in the pallet forks" but can't say until he see's seen my movement. I purchased it anyway el oh el wallet.
If anyone else wants to chip in feel free on essentials. I've read on older yuki's things like Mechanism Cover, H/M/S Wheels, Yoke Srping etc. are essentials, would these still be relevant for today's SH3135s? This is not intended to be who is right but more as a knowledgebase and worst case scenario, it only benefits me
