History Rolex Submariner 6204
The Rolex Submariner Reference 6204 was developed in 1953 and is considered the very first Submariner, laying the foundation for one of the most iconic dive watch lines in the world. It was officially introduced at the Basel Watch Fair in 1954. For its time, the watch was a technical innovation, offering water resistance up to 100 meters, and was aimed at both professional divers and sports-oriented customers.
During its early production phase, the Ref. 6204 exhibited
subtle design restraint, particularly evident in the evolution of its
dial variants. Some early models did not yet feature the "Submariner" text on the dial, likely due to branding considerations or the experimental nature of the initial series. Later, the text was introduced—typically in
gilt print on a black dial, known as a "Gilt Dial," which is highly sought after today. The design details varied slightly depending on the production batch, which adds to the appeal and complexity for collectors.
A particularly rare and historically significant variation is the so-called
"Sub-Aqua" dial. This version appeared on a very limited number of Ref. 6204 models, likely in association with the British
Sub-Aqua Club, one of the earliest organized diving clubs in the UK. These watches featured the additional
"Sub-Aqua" inscription on the dial and were not sold commercially, but rather used for demonstration or field-testing among professional or semi-professional divers. As a result, very few pieces were made—and surviving originals with this marking are now considered
exceptionally rare and highly prized collector's items with deep roots in the early history of recreational diving.
Historically, the Ref. 6204 marks the transition from traditional wristwatches to robust tool watches. It was part of Rolex’s pioneering efforts in the field of professional dive watches and was soon followed in the same year by other references like the 6205 and 6200, each with its own unique characteristics. Nonetheless, the Ref. 6204 remains the
starting point of the Submariner line and is today a
rare and historically important watch—especially in elusive variants like the
“Sub-Aqua”.
