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Rolex Commando 6429 - The rarest of the rare. Raffles products review

369mafia

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As some of you know. I have been working with Raffles on a few new products this year to offer to the forum

6350 explorer dial
6610 gloss dial
1016 tropical dials

and now offered from Raffles -

The Commando ref 6429

Very few Rolex models that have managed to escape the wider watch collector conscience. However, the Commando is one of those very few models that have achieved that feat. Launched in the very late 1960s and produced for a small handful of years until 1972, the Commando was originally produced for the U.S. Military and sold as Rolex’s cheapest watch for approximately $108 at the time, which was half of the price of a Submariner, at Army bases.

Featuring a 34mm stainless steel case, a riveted Oyster bracelet, a flat polished bezel and a black 3-6-9 dial, it takes very close inspiration from the Explorer, whose robust construction translated quite well into a watch that was to be worn by soldiers. However, as is believed, Rolex didn’t sell-out of Commando stock, and so they turned to Abercrombie & Fitch, the then high-end outdoors outfitter, to sell their excess Commandos. As is also rumoured, this excess stock was also stamped with the name “COMMANDO” on the dial at 6 o’clock so as to leverage the timepiece’s rugged background and austere design language with the outdoorsmen who would eventually buy the last remaining pieces. Today, the Commando has evolved into one of Rolex’ rarest models that is seldom seen for sale on the open market.

I’ve seen varying theories on how and where the Commando was sold:

  • One theory claims that there were two versions of the Commando: the version printed with “Commando” at 6 o’clock and a version left blank at six. This theory typically claims that the blank version was sold at military post exchanges (“PXs”), while the “Commando”-stamped version was sold at Abercrombie & Fitch.
  • A second theory claims the Commando was first offered exclusively at military PXs. A couple years later, the watch was sold at Abercrombie to get rid of Rolex’s remaining inventory. Under this theory, the Commando was sold at military PXs for a couple years in the late 1960s and early 1970s, and then at Abercrombie in 1972.
It’s also possible that some combination of these two theories is true: upon Rolex not selling through its entire inventory, it may have stamped previously blank reference 6429 models with “Commando” before selling the watches at Abercrombie. It would’ve been a shrewd marketing move by Rolex to connect the watch to its military roots (though perhaps not worth it for a watch that was selling for only $108).

Without more information, it’s hard to know which theory true, but I’m slightly inclined to believe some version of the second. While the serial numbers of these watches indicate production in the late 1960s or 1970, Abercrombie ads or sales receipts for the model don’t seem to appear until 1972. Thus, it seems plausible that the Commando was sold exclusively at military PXs for a couple years before Rolex partnered with Abercrombie to sell through the rest of its inventory.

Gen Example for reference:



First impression.
Offered in white and aged lume . I opted the White lume so that I can age it to the color desired.



specs of the build.

Raffles 34mm oyster case - sterile with sterile flat case back
Raffles 6mm narrow Rolex crown
Ofrie Han 6595 hands
Ali Datejust seconds hands.
Asian ETA 2824 movement with rotor removed.
Clarks T12 service crystal
Raffles 19mm Oyster bracelet


I first removed the sapphire crystal on the case set for a used T12 crystal I had in my parts , The lip is cracked on the crystal , but it will hold until my cousins order arrives with a domed acrylic that will fit the 34mm case .

Assembly was a snap. Unlike the Mochacha or Yuki Dial , the raffles dial has feet for both DG and ETA Movements. Mounts nicely onto the eta movement.
Installed the handset and dropped it into the case., buttoned it up (after removing the rotor) and installed it on the Raffles 19mm solid oyster bracelet
I held off aging the dial and hands , along with the case set so that other will see how the parts arrive , untouched. When the crystal arrives I will pull it apart and age the dial and hands and update this thread with the "aged appropriate " look.















As always , questions and comments welcome. Stay tuned for udpates.

Thanks for looking

369
 
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dpd3672

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I have one of hese builds in my last raffles order. Planning on using stock, generic datejust hands until raffles offers theirs.

Basically following the trails you’re blazing here, lol.
 

369mafia

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Before its release, there were 2 options for dials available in past to present.


Yuki - NLA that is what I currently have in my personal watch.
My personal watch - built in 2018ish which many of you have seen
the text is good, the lume and numerals is good however the cornet was off. When I bought the dial, the oval on the cornet was slightly too small so I altered it with a ultra fine sharpie to enlarge the hole slightly , it was an improvement but still not ideal. The cornet was more similar to the Mil spec dial than the A&F dial - more on that later.




Mochacha. - was the most accurate however the finish is delicate and it has become very expensive $535 CAD

Here is a comparison between the Mochacha dial and Raffles dial The finish is alot more durable on the raffles dial it has a slightly different finish. presumably a clearcoat of sorts but under the crystal it looks more matte finish
the lume on the numerals is slightly thicker but good in shape. the stick markers appear to be slightly shorter or it may be the fact that they are slightly thicker that make them appear shorter.

the cornets are more similar than different and for as rare as this watch is. Its close enough... good enough for the girls I go with..as they say
 

freebalkany

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Looking good, I’m tempted to build one.
Is the bezel the one from the raffles case?
Also, did you remove the automatic module from the ETA clone?
 

369mafia

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Looking good, I’m tempted to build one.
Is the bezel the one from the raffles case?
Also, did you remove the automatic module from the ETA clone?
They are a fun build! I think you definably should.
Yes the bezel came with the case set, with a lil bit of enlarging of the ID , you can fit it over the acrylic crystals.
I had only removed the rotor for clearance with the flat case back but I suppose one should remove the whose assembly
 

freebalkany

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Well now you got me thinking.
Fitting an ETA2801 or an Eterna 12801 in there could be fun too. Especially since they were using KIF shock springs (like Rolex & Tudor).


 

369mafia

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I have one of hese builds in my last raffles order. Planning on using stock, generic datejust hands until raffles offers theirs.

Basically following the trails you’re blazing here, lol.
Yes the DJ hands will work in a pinch .

Ha thanks man. Just trying to carry my own weight in here and give back to the community . My favorite part about all this is that we can now own some incredibly rare and sought after time pieces , at a fraction of the cost and wear them like the tool watches that they are and what they were build and designed for. and not brought out from the safe and paraded around your hoity toity friends at dinner parties to show how wealthy and cultured you are of a watch collector.

I am not one of those guys who would show up to a Rolex AD to flash my rep, but in my mind, I like the idea of a watch collector noticing my watch while I am doing an activity, cycling, swimming or manual labour while wearing a 50-200 k watch on my wrist ,. The look on his face would be priceless, Swimming with a vintage big crown sub , while he is afraid to even hold his watch without gloves. :ROFLMAO:

On IG the other day a watch dealer was talking about someone once told him the best way to put down your watch so you do scratch it, was to put it sideways on the crown side. the dealer thought it was ridiculous. I thought it was EVEN MORE ridiculous considering these are robust sports watches build for extreme environments and this guy is worried about how he puts the watch down on a surface.

who even takes off their watch in the first place, unless its to switch to another watch ?:ROFLMAO:
 

369mafia

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Well now you got me thinking.
Fitting an ETA2801 or an Eterna 12801 in there could be fun too. Especially since they were using KIF shock springs (like Rolex & Tudor).


Yes that would be an ideal movement for the build.
 

dpd3672

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Yes the DJ hands will work in a pinch .

Ha thanks man. Just trying to carry my own weight in here and give back to the community . My favorite part about all this is that we can now own some incredibly rare and sought after time pieces , at a fraction of the cost and wear them like the tool watches that they are and what they were build and designed for. and not brought out from the safe and paraded around your hoity toity friends at dinner parties to show how wealthy and cultured you are of a watch collector.

I am not one of those guys who would show up to a Rolex AD to flash my rep, but in my mind, I like the idea of a watch collector noticing my watch while I am doing an activity, cycling, swimming or manual labour while wearing a 50-200 k watch on my wrist ,. The look on his face would be priceless, Swimming with a vintage big crown sub , while he is afraid to even hold his watch without gloves. :ROFLMAO:

On IG the other day a watch dealer was talking about someone once told him the best way to put down your watch so you do scratch it, was to put it sideways on the crown side. the dealer thought it was ridiculous. I thought it was EVEN MORE ridiculous considering these are robust sports watches build for extreme environments and this guy is worried about how he puts the watch down on a surface.

who even takes off their watch in the first place, unless its to switch to another watch ?:ROFLMAO:
I don't anymore, because it's just too damn valuable, but I've scuba dove with my 1680 before, when I first got it, ~25 years ago.

Of course, they cost about a week's pay for a used one back then, not a year's pay. Now it's in a safe and I wear the rep, which I can barely tell apart, even side by side. Truth be told, I don't have the best eye for the tiniest of little details, which is what brought me here, originally...I knew the reps were so good that it was only a matter of time before I got ripped off buying a "gen," so why not just embrace it? Turns out, this hobby can easily become more expensive than collecting gens, lol.
 

369mafia

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What we dont spend on expensive parts and watches, we make up in tools and arts and crafts supplies lol Tools are never a bad investment. unless you invest in bad quailty tools lol
I don't anymore, because it's just too damn valuable, but I've scuba dove with my 1680 before, when I first got it, ~25 years ago.

Of course, they cost about a week's pay for a used one back then, not a year's pay. Now it's in a safe and I wear the rep, which I can barely tell apart, even side by side. Truth be told, I don't have the best eye for the tiniest of little details, which is what brought me here, originally...I knew the reps were so good that it was only a matter of time before I got ripped off buying a "gen," so why not just embrace it? Turns out, this hobby can easily become more expensive than collecting gens, lol.
 
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alligoat

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nice job! My only comment would be to put it on a raffles rivet 19mm bracelet- the modern 7205.
 
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369mafia

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nice job! My only comment would be to put it on a raffles rivet 19mm bracelet- the modern 7205.
I have bought a raffles 19mm rivet in the past and its a bit of a bamboozle. he just swaps the end links, afaik its the same as the 20mm rivet he offers with the 16mm clasp . His new 19mm bracelet (solid oyster) is a true 19mm that tapers to a 14mm clasp.



If he was to offer a true 19mm rivet bracelet , I would be all over it.

in 2019 I was able to commission a hand made folded rivet bracelet from a member on here who was making them by hand . I think he was in Europe somewhere. He has not been around since but it is well made and defiantly feels the part. with appropriate stamps and everything. I bought a gen clasp and I think most would be fooled to think it wasnt vintage.


 

369mafia

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brief update.

the crystal I received didnt fit the case....checked. looks like they sent me the wrong one. . sure glad they have part numbers for reference lol
when I had it apart to do the aging and crystal, I gave the case some light aging to match the dial .
on assembly I was able to squeese the entire movement into the case , rotor and all. and button it up. The rotor doesn't move but it doesn't interfere with the movement function either. seems like the inside case back could use a bit of grinding and you could have a perpetual commando if you so desired.





looks great on the MOD nato . The weathering on the dial is quite subtle but compliments the build nicely. not OTT but looks the part.
once I get the new crystal fitted, I think I am going to be putting up one my 2 commandos for sale. I just not sure which one as I like them both for different reasons.
 
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369mafia

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I decided to list this for sale in the collectors corner
 
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