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Project "RWI Raffle Win"... a 1675 Build

nonox

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30/3/12
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with what technique do you sand the insert?

by hand with sandpaper (what grain?) with the risk of having a not perfectly round insert.

or by positioning the insert on a dremel or a drill and turning it on a sandpaper with the risk of over-sanding the insert
if yes how to block the insert on the dremel ?

I have a milk insert to sand to fit in a milk bezel and I'm not sure which technique to use


I take all the advice
 

Kalmine64

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Thanks for the replies !

Here is the one I am looking forward to receive, built by maestro Tripdog

a24943d68fb83fca08442f6b98d89b07.jpg



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p0pperini

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with what technique do you sand the insert?
by hand with sandpaper (what grain?) with the risk of having a not perfectly round insert.
or by positioning the insert on a dremel or a drill and turning it on a sandpaper with the risk of over-sanding the insert
if yes how to block the insert on the dremel ?
I haven't had to do this yet (as I mentioned, the inserts fit yodog's bezel) but what I planned to do was cut a disc of thick plastic card at exactly the right size to fit inside the insert, and mount the disc on my Dremel mounted on the Dremel workstation, the same way I did the dial sanding. Avoid sanding too much by... sanding gradually and checking often!

Others who have done this will have their own advice I'm sure. I also expect it's perfectly okay to sand by hand - again, by doing it very gradually and checking often.

Regarding sandpaper grade, I'd be inclined to stick with a grade over 1000. And be extremely careful not to accidentally sand the upper surface!
 
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nonox

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Thanks for your answer


I am also more comfortable using a dremel to turn the insert on sandpaper and check it regularly
 

KJ2020

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Here's how I have sanded inserts down on the outer perimeter

Fisrt, assess how much you need to take off and see if you can do that without sanding off the numbers. Start with ~800 grit, lay paper on bench. Hold insert on edge and swipe/roll it toward you. A swipe/roll will cover maybe 1/8th of the circle. Do about 5 swipe/rolls in one place then move around the circle to the next 1/8th and do 5 more. Constantly watch how much you are taking off and make sure you don't take too much off. Measure with digital calipers frequently at different points around the circle.

If you need to be more aggressive, use ~600 or 400. When you get close to it fitting, use ~1000 or 1500. Overlap the shifts to next rolls so you don't have flat areas. Check progress often, don't let it get uneven around the circle. When done use a Sharpie marker to color the edge, You can wipe the marker off the top with alcohol if there's over-spill.

You can sand the inner perimeter also it needed. Wrap a strip of sandpaper around a hard round tool and use the same approach as above.


15849771361412.jpg
 
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nonox

Active Member
30/3/12
261
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Here's how I have sanded inserts down on the outer perimeter

Fisrt, assess how much you need to take off and see if you can do that without sanding off the numbers. Start with ~800 grit, lay paper on bench. Hold insert on edge and swipe/roll it toward you. A swipe/roll will cover maybe 1/8th of the circle. Do about 5 swipe/rolls in one place then move around the circle to the next 1/8th and do 5 more. Constantly watch how much you are taking off and make sure you don't take too much off. Measure with digital calipers frequently at different points around the circle.

If you need to be more aggressive, use ~600 or 400. When you get close to it fitting, use ~1000 or 1500. Overlap the shifts to next rolls so you don't have flat areas. Check progress often, don't let it get uneven around the circle. When done use a Sharpie marker to color the edge, You can wipe the marker off the top with alcohol if there's over-spill.

You can sand the inner perimeter also it needed. Wrap a strip of sandpaper around a hard round tool and use the same approach as above.


15849771361412.jpg

Thanks, very useful informations
 
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Solution6

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with what technique do you sand the insert?

by hand with sandpaper (what grain?) with the risk of having a not perfectly round insert.

or by positioning the insert on a dremel or a drill and turning it on a sandpaper with the risk of over-sanding the insert
if yes how to block the insert on the dremel ?

I have a milk insert to sand to fit in a milk bezel and I'm not sure which technique to use


I take all the advice

I've done mine with a flexile nail file as it gives more control over the material being shaved away. It has two sides, I used the less course one.

9s0c8.jpg



For thickness I shaved in straight lines back and forth 3-5 passes and then turned the insert.


9uZEI.jpg



For overall size I shaved while rotating.


9u3yX.jpg




Don't be afraid to apply medium pressure while using this technique, and check the fitting after every cycle. It will take some time to get it to the right size but it's a safe way of doing it.

PS. I went with a gen. insert after all but had to do a bit of sanding on that as well.

@Kalmine64 the insert is from Milk, I picked it up with his case-set.
 
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Kalmine64

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Interesting technique and easy to use for anybody who doesn’t have any tools :)

may i ask where you sourced this insert?
 

KJ2020

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Got my hands on that Yuki movement holder already and can confirm that it fits well. (only did a quick test fit for now) And I second the idea on the 6460 quality, looks very well made and it runs great.

Also in the 'fit' category - the Tiger Concept's pepsi insert fits perfectly on Milk's bezel assy. In case one doesn't want to shave that beautiful fat font insert from Milk.

Here's a pic of my Lego parts :)

Hey bro, nice collection of parts. Have you test fitted the GMT hand, I thought the 2893 hand hole size was 1.8mm? The 2836/6460 takes a 2.0mm.
 

Solution6

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Hey bro, nice collection of parts. Have you test fitted the GMT hand, I thought the 2893 hand hole size was 1.8mm? The 2836/6460 takes a 2.0mm.

Yeah, that was a poor choice. The seller's page stated the set would be compatible with a 2836 as well.

That is correct, you need a 2mm GMT hand for this 2836. Another add-on was a long pinion seconds hand as the one that came with the set (and others I tried) are too short.

So just to recap :) Hour and minutes hands are standard 2836, GMT hand needs to be 2mm and the seconds hand needs a longer pinion.
 
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Cristiano2.0

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Yes, about 5 minutes in a bit of mould remover which contains bleach. (No sanding necessary).

0319ba2c864cc40bcd6a72dfa8382053.plist



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Do you think it is possible to lighten only the blue part, advice
 

cjt202020

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What a great thread. I’ve never built at watch before but I’ve been inspired to have a go during the lockdown. Do you think I’ll manage ?!

What’s arrived so far in picture. Also have gmt 2836-2 on route together with a plexi and a crown.

Can anyone recommend how a movement ring is fashioned?

Can anyone recommend a place for seals / gaskets I will need?

ce9dec53ea2ce02492f2d782cf2f3d04.jpg




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chubbychaser911

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31/10/19
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gaskets are readily available on eBay. As far as movement ring, p0pperini knows where to get one but he's holding out on us lol. I ended buying one from yukiwatch.com and it was $50. The movement you've got coming will have a dial spacer and I'm going to bet it has a date wheel overlay with Rolex style printed numbers. It looks like your dial has standard 2836 window. It probably won't line up with the movement's date ring. If I were you I'd try to get a date wheel that is standard 2836 spacing but has Rolex style print. Reason being is that I got a standard 1570 style dial and removing and replacing dial feet is a bitch. I imagine one way to do that without doing the dial feet is to glue the dial spacer to the dial and then gluing the dial spacer to the movement. There really isn't a big open spot on the movement to use dial tape.
 
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chubbychaser911

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Oh and get a plexiglass crystal from clark's on eBay. Handle is nostalgia2000 I think. Pressing on the crystal ring will not work with a crystal press because they won't clear the plexiglass so you'll need to use some kind of clamping device to get it on. You'll have to bend some kinks into the friction ring spring because otherwise mine would just spin free.
 
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Solution6

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What a great thread. I’ve never built at watch before but I’ve been inspired to have a go during the lockdown. Do you think I’ll manage ?!

What’s arrived so far in picture. Also have gmt 2836-2 on route together with a plexi and a crown.

Can anyone recommend how a movement ring is fashioned?

Can anyone recommend a place for seals / gaskets I will need?

Can anyone recommend how a movement ring is fashioned?

https://yukiwatch.ecwid.com/?ownerid...yRedirect=true

Yuki's is down for maintenance at the moment but you're looking for a 15xx series conversion ring if you go with Yuki.

Shaving might be necessary for the movement clamps to fit - some work without shaving as it seems, so always check before making any adjustments.


6jnTp.jpg



Can anyone recommend a place for seals / gaskets I will need?


The tube should come with an o'ring already and for the case this is what I used, picked up from Ebay.


6j6b5.jpg
 
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