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Preparing budget 5513 build

jackflash

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I tried to page through the thread to see the full manual for a 5513, but didn't see anything except some specific links to parts and some references to a person named Ruby. I also saw the link to what different factories best produce what. That said, are there also "factories" and reps for the parts? So for my example of a Uboat is there someone who reps the cases or someone who reps the movements etc?

In your case. Your best bet is buying a complete watch from a trusted dealer e.g. PureTime. Here’s a link to the Uboats they have available:
https://puretime.io/watch-brands/u-boat.html?limit=all
 

Jet438

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That's a good idea as well. But...let's say, for example, I get a ZF 1:1 Big Pilot and the movement goes bad. I could send it back to the TD and wait the two months or so to get it back. I could send it to a trusted Smith and hopefully he can get the parts or I can maybe tackle the project myself. It's something I've never done but I'm kinda handy and it sounds kinda fun to be truthful...In order to start though one needs, much like the factory post, what TD parts reps are out there that could sell you the whole watch in parts.
i used a Uboat in my previous example because I like the style...and I've found that the two TDs I've used in the past, although shown on their sites, no longer have stock.
So either for repair or a ground up build it's just something, and it isn't big money, I'd like to learn how to do...but learning from restoring a 58 Benz you gotta have good parts sources.
 

capice

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There are a lot of factories like NOOB, JF, BP, ARF, ZF, VRF, MKF,OMFVSF/V6F and some more...Some have been raided but most of these still exist.
They all have their own specialization.
So NOOB and ARF have the best Rolex, BP has the best Rolex Day Date II and Datejust 41mm, ZF for Tudor and IWC, VR for the Sub 116610 LV ect but this changes again and again
Then you have the Cartel which is a group of dealers.
Most factories make their own watches and buy components like hands, movements and sometimes dials.
Then you have suppliers of parts like Helearou, Raffles, Phong ect...all with their own expertise
 

mabruh

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Wow great thread! I’m actually looking into vintage 5513 at the moment! This gives me a good idea of the ammount of work that goes into these reps! Any thread about waterproofing around?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

mabruh

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I see, thank you so much! Then I will try to get ETA 2842. Would this fit well with the others? I wish I am not missing anything now :)

Much appreciated tripdog

Any news on that build?? Cant wait to see result!


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dubhdubhdubh

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, calmrecog ah I love threads like this, I'm also new to this and threads like this have really helped me learn about how to plan out a build. Great info from the generous veterans!
 

Steveyip531

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Hey guys. I am just new to replica and all these threads are really helpful. Thanks alot.

I have also received offer from a reseller for 5513. Can you guys tell me whether this is cartel? Is this a great deal for moving forward because I thinking to replace it with Helenrou dial. Please :)
And a video link is attached below
jYkH4.jpg


jYw1I.jpg


[video]https://streamable.com/4i6um[/video]
 
Last edited:

tripdog

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Hey guys. I am just new to replica and all these threads are really helpful. Thanks alot.

I have also received offer from a reseller for 5513. Can you guys tell me whether this is cartel? Is this a great deal for moving forward because I thinking to replace it with Helenrou dial. Please :)
And a video link is attached below
jYkH4.jpg


jYw1I.jpg


[video]https://streamable.com/4i6um[/video]

Not a Cartel, doesn't look like it will accept gen parts either - bezel ring is wrong, so is insert, dial looks like it's a 27 mm.
 

Steveyip531

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Ya the seller did mention that it wont accept genuine. But I have no idea whether it is close. Ofcouse I am aware it is not the Ruby’s level
 

Fedon06

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1. White print ( gen' spec') 5512 & 5513 dials are the same diameter, but they are slightly too large for the Cartel 5512/5513 cases. You will need to remove about 0.4 mm from the outside of the dial, or widen the dial aperture in the case by the same amount - the first option is the easiest, using 400 grade W & D paper.

I don't recommend you use Yuki dials, unless money is an issue - they are not good quality, and aren't very close in appearance to a genuine dial. Rubyswatches dials are more expensive but are better quality and look fairly close to the real thing.

2. The 2836 is a slightly better quality movement, but it's also a high beat movement, whereas the genuine 5512/55123 had a low beat movement - as is the Asian 21j / DG2813. Again it comes down to budget - the best option would be to put in a low beat Swiss ETA, but you need to know what you are doing before you start changing movements etc.

3. The Cartel vintage Subs are a perfectly acceptable base for a build, there are other options out there - MBW etc, but they are more expensive and not hugely superior - everything on offer can only be considered to be a base from which to work.

Buy a good quality replacement dial, a set of hands from Raffles Time, a pearl from Athaya Vintage Parts, an aftermarket crystal and the watch will be already greatly improved over the basic Cartel.

hi tripdog !

I am also starting a 5513 build but Paypal is not available in my country (Turkey) and I cant find a good dial supplier that accepts other payment methods. Do you know where can I get a good ft first 5513 dial and hands for my Cartel 5513, paying with Bitcoin or TransferWise?

Many thanks!
 

tripdog

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hi tripdog !

I am also starting a 5513 build but Paypal is not available in my country (Turkey) and I cant find a good dial supplier that accepts other payment methods. Do you know where can I get a good ft first 5513 dial and hands for my Cartel 5513, paying with Bitcoin or TransferWise?

Many thanks!

I would just message any sellers you're interested in, asking if they will accept payment by bank transfer/wire, which is what Transferwise is, although I'm sure some will also accept payment by bank or credit card.