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[Pompomurin's] Let's build a Rolex GMT Master 16700 (with 3135 to 3175 movement conversion)

bowtiefanatc

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I’m curious on the 3175 conversion. It’s really cool that you did that to the 3135. Was it more straightforward to do that method over a 3186?

Absolutely love the finished product!
 
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pompompurin

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Welp after seeing this I need to toss my piss poor attempt in the trash 😂. Gen dial, raffles 14060 case I had lying around (rehaut is rough, but it looks more like a 16700 than a real 14060).

At least it was sentimental and great fun building it!

I think you can further improve it by using bp 16710 hands. Maybe see if any trusted dealers can help you source that.

Then maybe see if you can swap a 6mm crown into it. Maybe the stock case tube can fit rafflesdial's 6mm crown. You can always email rafflesdial to confirm this.
 

pompompurin

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I’m curious on the 3175 conversion. It’s really cool that you did that to the 3135. Was it more straightforward to do that method over a 3186?

Absolutely love the finished product!

Thank you!

The vr3186 (3185) is definitely not the right movement for a 3175 conversion because the vr3186 is a completely different movement with so many different and extra parts.

According to official Rolex spec sheets, the 3175 is extremely similar to a 3135 movement: only 4 critical 3175 parts are needed to convert a 3135 to 3175. If i convert a vr3186 movement into a 3175 movement, then i would need to replace so many proprietary 3185 parts with 3135 parts, like the cannon pinion and seconds wheel from a 3135.

Despite the 3175 and vr3186 movements have GMT function, their GMT mechanisms are entirely different. The v3186 has a jumping hour hand to set the date and GMT hand, while the 3175 functions exactly like a 3135 movement with an non-adjustable slave GMT hand.
 
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bowtiefanatc

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Thank you!

The vr3186 (3185) is definitely not the right movement for a 3175 conversion because the vr3186 is a completely different movement with so many different and extra parts.

According to official Rolex spec sheets, the 3175 is extremely similar to a 3135 movement: only 4 critical 3175 parts are needed to convert a 3135 to 3175. If i convert a vr3186 movement into a 3175 movement, then i would need to replace so many proprietary 3185 parts with 3135 parts, like the cannon pinion and seconds wheel from a 3135.

Despite the 3175 and vr3186 (3185) movements have GMT function, their GMT mechanism is entirely different.

Makes total sense. I was wondering if it was closer to the 35 vs the 86 (hence why the 35 was the base for your project).

Thanks for the clarification! Now I want a 16700.

Been on a GMT rabbit hole recently.
 
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Yellowhammerwatches

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At least it was sentimental and great fun building it!

I think you can further improve it by using bp 16710 hands. Maybe see if any trusted dealers can help you source that.

Then maybe see if you can swap a 6mm crown into it. Maybe the stock case tube can fit rafflesdial's 6mm crown. You can always email rafflesdial to confirm this.
At least it was sentimental and great fun building it!

I think you can further improve it by using bp 16710 hands. Maybe see if any trusted dealers can help you source that.

Then maybe see if you can swap a 6mm crown into it. Maybe the stock case tube can fit rafflesdial's 6mm crown. You can always email rafflesdial to confirm this.
Crown definitely needs swapping. I used the 3186 for the CHS so my hands options have been limited unfortunately. And yes, my hour hand tends to hang at random times as well. It’s weird because I leave it on the winder so I never have to change the date, then adjust the hour hand as needed when I wear it. Once I put it on it seems to run fine and doesn’t get hung up. Wore it for a solid week once no issues. Put it back on the winder though, and it’ll start hanging up again. Don’t know if resetting the hands will help or not, but at least it jumps accurately, albeit a little spongy, when I do need to adjust it.
 
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tienbang

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@pompompurin for the gasket, it has to be 2.7mm with the Gen Crystal? I bought three different sizes from Clark’s (2.3, 2.5, 2.85) and now I’m second guessing all of them
 

pompompurin

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@pompompurin for the gasket, it has to be 2.7mm with the Gen Crystal? I bought three different sizes from Clark’s (2.3, 2.5, 2.85) and now I’m second guessing all of them
I used 2.7mm for my build. The crystal sticks out like how I like it to look and according to Google pics. Your mileage may vary.

I also recommend measuring your crystal's thickness. The crystal's thickness reflects which gasket height you should use. My gen crystal was 1.8mm thick. Sometimes there are gen 2.0mm thick crystals.
 

Iceman1

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Wow, great build. Stupid question but this exact conversion with the parts mentioned should also work for a 16750 project with gen dial and gen hands right?

Also, is there a reason you chose the VR3135 over the VS3135?
 

pompompurin

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Wow, great build. Stupid question but this exact conversion with the parts mentioned should also work for a 16750 project with gen dial and gen hands right?

Also, is there a reason you chose the VR3135 over the VS3135?

If you are using a ruby 16750 case, then the ruby 16750 case can fit a VR3186 directly using custom movement tabs.

Personally, I don't see the point of converting and using a 3175 movement for a 16750 build because the 3175 and 3075 movements don't function exactly the same (e.g., the different hand-setting and date-setting directions).

Therefore, you are better-off saving money by using a Ruby 16750 case + VR3186 movement + 16710 hands + 16700/ 16750 dial.

I have built a 16750 before with the aforesaid specs (with gen 16750 service dial and additional gen date disc):



I like VR3135 more than VS3135 because VR3135 has better date alignment for older Rolex dials.
Their timegrapher performance are more-or-less the same.
VS3135 is better for installing a genuine balance
 
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tienbang

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@pompompurin curious if you know how big your gen 16570 dial diameter measured. Working with a very early rep case and its dial opening is 27.6mm. I tested a rep 116610 dial (27.7mm) and that worked if I was to have it perfectly centered. A rep bp 16600 dial fell right through at 27.4mm.
 

pompompurin

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@pompompurin curious if you know how big your gen 16570 dial diameter measured. Working with a very early rep case and its dial opening is 27.6mm. I tested a rep 116610 dial (27.7mm) and that worked if I was to have it perfectly centered. A rep bp 16600 dial fell right through at 27.4mm.

Quick google search suggests the following:
- gen 16600 dials can have diameters of ~27.40mm.
- gen 16570 dials can have diameters of around 27.30mm~27.40mm



 
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Yellowhammerwatches

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I think you gotta make sure there is a brass washer/ spring around the the jumping hour wheel. If there is, take it out and bend it so that there is more spring friction applied onto the jumping hour wheel (to keep it moving)
I’ll take a look at that. Obviously if I’m going to the trouble, I’m ditching the raffles case first.
 
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carlo1976

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Hi, I have been trying to convert a 3135 to a 3175 like yourself but I can not seem to find the correct part 3175-670. I've tried a couple that were advertised as this part number and genuine but they simply do not fit. I've attached a picture of the different ones that have arrived but they are all different lengths . The distance from the main plate jewel to the jewel in the the calendar plate is fixed so pivot to pivot end length can not change but as you see the top one is too long ( I assume this is the most correct part with 3 gear wheels) the middle one is the original and the bottom one is supposedly a 3135 identical part but is too short pivot to pivot. did you come across this problem yourself?


 

pompompurin

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Hi, I have been trying to convert a 3135 to a 3175 like yourself but I can not seem to find the correct part 3175-670. I've tried a couple that were advertised as this part number and genuine but they simply do not fit. I've attached a picture of the different ones that have arrived but they are all different lengths . The distance from the main plate jewel to the jewel in the the calendar plate is fixed so pivot to pivot end length can not change but as you see the top one is too long ( I assume this is the most correct part with 3 gear wheels) the middle one is the original and the bottom one is supposedly a 3135 identical part but is too short pivot to pivot. did you come across this problem yourself?


Hi there,

I didn't encounter this problem. I bought a brand new sealed and original rolex 3175-670 part since I believe there are no aftermarket equivalents.
 
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carlo1976

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Hi there,

I didn't encounter this problem. I bought a brand new sealed and original rolex 3175-670 part since I believe there are no aftermarket equivalents.
Ok thanks, they are hard to find sealed!. I am assuming it is the 3 geared type ? Top one ?
 

pompompurin

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Ok thanks, they are hard to find sealed!. I am assuming it is the 3 geared type ? Top one ?
i don't remember exactly. But it probably has 3 gears with one of the extra gears to drive the GMT wheel

if you buy a sealed and genuine Rolex 3175 670, it is highly unlikely to be incompatible at least.
 
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ross29

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Got bit by the 16700 bug thanks to this thread.

I can grab the easy parts from ST, got a 670 off eBay and a Gen dial. Need to find the elusive 284 wheel.
I'm in the same boat. Still looking for the 284 wheel part. Sounds like you found one, if anyone knows about another for sale please let me know 🙏
 
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