As I first posted about the Tuttonero at the beginning of the year, I feel some sort of deja vu posting a review of the much awaited second version 10 month down the line. Much to our amazement, it was not a mere upgrade to a DLCed Titanium case, which was as much as to be expected at the time, since after the PAM292J Super rep in full ceramic case, there were no more ceramic PAMs that followed, but a full ceramic case, and not just one rep but two with the simultaneous release of the PAM441 (which Polonus already covered in his short review here . To add fuel to the excitement, the PAM438 Tuttonero marks the release of the first ever bracelet made of the same ceramic material as the watch head.
The watch is from Kuvarsit, and I bought the watch straight from the dealer of the same name (not trusted here but is one over at the sister forum rwg). Kudos to Amanda and the team for getting the watch shipped to my friend in time, it was literally a midnight shipment.
So let's get down to brass tacks (or ceramic tacks in this case).
CASE CONSTRUCTION:
In terms of the ceramic construction, Polonus posted a very interesting link from Risti about how ceramic PAMs are made (fascinating as to the difference between making a Luminor and a Radiomir ceramic case). The case does feel different from the stainless steel and the PVD/DLCed cases used in PAMs such as the PAM332, PAM360 and the PAM026. The bracelet material does not differ one bit from the case, so it lends to a very uniform looking watch. As the case for the PAM438 is the same as that of the PAM441, I will not repeat the items touched on by Polonus. I will however, review other aspects of the watch if it was not described there or if it is different in the PAM438 Tuttonero.
CANNON PINION:
However, even though it was touched upon in Polonus' review, I will make the first exception and describe the CP. :lol:
Unfortunately it is not flush with the hands. It is sunken. However, like the PAM441, the CP is not a glaring issue and certainly not perceptible from an arm's distance. It will only be obvious to those who know about it and look for it.
LUG BARS:
One thing I noticed about the case is that it employs slightly shorter lug screws.
Close inspection shows how short it is.
This is because the case copies the look of the gen which shows the other side of the lugs as flat like so.
The lug bars are also not shiny like others but are more of a matte finish, I am not sure whether it is made of titanium or is merely brushed to be uniform with the other non-ceramic parts of the watch, which is a nice touch.
PAM438 lug bar at the top, regular lug bar at the bottom.
BRACELET:
We now come to the bracelet. It is supposedly made of ceramic with a titanium butterfly deployant clasp.
I have no means to validate this claim but I believe that it is so. The way the bracelet links sound when they come into contact with each other sounds like smooth rocks hitting each other, which is as close as I can describe it. (Get some smooth stones and play with them in your palm, they sound similar).
Ceramic is supposed to be scratch proof, which was curiously demonstrated by a discovery when I removed the bracelet from the watch.
Scratches (OMG!) ?
Turns out it was caused by the clasp touching the bracelet. The weaker material will leave a mark, therefore the clasp will rub off on the bracelet.
Found these marks on the other side of the bracelet. Scratch galore (OMG again!)?
A quick wipe with the microfiber cloth and viola! Clean as a whistle.
So is it ceramic? I am inclined to believe it is so. Not totally by the way, the part that latches on to the ceramic case is most likely made of PVDed steel (top part in the picture) bonded to the ceramic end link (the bottom part in the picture).
CASEBACK ENGRAVINGS (as they are different from that on the PAM441):
No CERAIMC there.
OP text clear and legible.
OP logo also crisp.
OP and BB text.
TUTTONERO text is clear (my lens is causing the text not to be uniform in crispness).
Rotor text. It looks to be raised on the gen rotor as well so this is a nice touch. I love how the silver is raised against the black rotor.
MOVEMENT:
Photo of the whole movement. I've checked the images of the gen and aside from the rotated nature of the text (because of the location of the balance wheel @11 instead of @7 on the gen), the placement is spot on.
Comparison of the movement with that on another KW release of late, the PAM382 V3.
LUME:
Now how about the lume? Well, it is also bright, same as the KW PAM382 V3 I've reviewed before. Some shots (these aren't in relative darkness like the PAM382 review so they aren't as bright). Exposed the lume to the LED flash on my phone for 5 seconds for each number on the dial and the hands.
After one minute
After another two minutes (total 3 minutes after exposure)
Some wrist shots:
I hope you find the review entertaining and helpful towards an informed purchase. Thank you for reading!
UPDATE:
Oh I almost forgot. How do you resize the bracelet? Well, unless you're very handy with a small hammer and pin tool, which I am not, I suggest you bring it to a watchsmith, which I did.
The locking mechanism is composed of two parts, a long black pin which runs through the width of the link, and a short stainless steel sleeve which fits in the middle part of the link. The black pin is force fitted through the middle ss sleeve and thus holds the links in place. To remove the pin, you must hammer a pin of the same or slightly smaller diameter to move the pin out, then pull the rest of the pin with some pliers. I've arranged the parts in the right side of the picture below. The left side shows the pin almost inserted completely through the link.
The watch is from Kuvarsit, and I bought the watch straight from the dealer of the same name (not trusted here but is one over at the sister forum rwg). Kudos to Amanda and the team for getting the watch shipped to my friend in time, it was literally a midnight shipment.
So let's get down to brass tacks (or ceramic tacks in this case).
CASE CONSTRUCTION:
In terms of the ceramic construction, Polonus posted a very interesting link from Risti about how ceramic PAMs are made (fascinating as to the difference between making a Luminor and a Radiomir ceramic case). The case does feel different from the stainless steel and the PVD/DLCed cases used in PAMs such as the PAM332, PAM360 and the PAM026. The bracelet material does not differ one bit from the case, so it lends to a very uniform looking watch. As the case for the PAM438 is the same as that of the PAM441, I will not repeat the items touched on by Polonus. I will however, review other aspects of the watch if it was not described there or if it is different in the PAM438 Tuttonero.
CANNON PINION:
However, even though it was touched upon in Polonus' review, I will make the first exception and describe the CP. :lol:
Unfortunately it is not flush with the hands. It is sunken. However, like the PAM441, the CP is not a glaring issue and certainly not perceptible from an arm's distance. It will only be obvious to those who know about it and look for it.
LUG BARS:
One thing I noticed about the case is that it employs slightly shorter lug screws.
Close inspection shows how short it is.
This is because the case copies the look of the gen which shows the other side of the lugs as flat like so.
The lug bars are also not shiny like others but are more of a matte finish, I am not sure whether it is made of titanium or is merely brushed to be uniform with the other non-ceramic parts of the watch, which is a nice touch.
PAM438 lug bar at the top, regular lug bar at the bottom.
BRACELET:
We now come to the bracelet. It is supposedly made of ceramic with a titanium butterfly deployant clasp.
I have no means to validate this claim but I believe that it is so. The way the bracelet links sound when they come into contact with each other sounds like smooth rocks hitting each other, which is as close as I can describe it. (Get some smooth stones and play with them in your palm, they sound similar).
Ceramic is supposed to be scratch proof, which was curiously demonstrated by a discovery when I removed the bracelet from the watch.
Scratches (OMG!) ?
Turns out it was caused by the clasp touching the bracelet. The weaker material will leave a mark, therefore the clasp will rub off on the bracelet.
Found these marks on the other side of the bracelet. Scratch galore (OMG again!)?
A quick wipe with the microfiber cloth and viola! Clean as a whistle.
So is it ceramic? I am inclined to believe it is so. Not totally by the way, the part that latches on to the ceramic case is most likely made of PVDed steel (top part in the picture) bonded to the ceramic end link (the bottom part in the picture).
CASEBACK ENGRAVINGS (as they are different from that on the PAM441):
No CERAIMC there.
OP text clear and legible.
OP logo also crisp.
OP and BB text.
TUTTONERO text is clear (my lens is causing the text not to be uniform in crispness).
Rotor text. It looks to be raised on the gen rotor as well so this is a nice touch. I love how the silver is raised against the black rotor.
MOVEMENT:
Photo of the whole movement. I've checked the images of the gen and aside from the rotated nature of the text (because of the location of the balance wheel @11 instead of @7 on the gen), the placement is spot on.
Comparison of the movement with that on another KW release of late, the PAM382 V3.
LUME:
Now how about the lume? Well, it is also bright, same as the KW PAM382 V3 I've reviewed before. Some shots (these aren't in relative darkness like the PAM382 review so they aren't as bright). Exposed the lume to the LED flash on my phone for 5 seconds for each number on the dial and the hands.
After one minute
After another two minutes (total 3 minutes after exposure)
Some wrist shots:
I hope you find the review entertaining and helpful towards an informed purchase. Thank you for reading!
UPDATE:
Oh I almost forgot. How do you resize the bracelet? Well, unless you're very handy with a small hammer and pin tool, which I am not, I suggest you bring it to a watchsmith, which I did.
