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On The Bench - My Watchmaking Journey

Nikzav

Getting To Know The Place
25/10/22
39
5
8
Hey RWI… or more fitting for this section fellow tinkerers

Firstly I’d just like to say I am not a qualified watchmaker and don’t want to take anything away from these professionals and the tuition they have undertaken. I have had an interest in watches for several years, fast forward and this lead me taking up watchmaking as a hobby… probably expedited by covid and the shear amount of free time (but let’s not dwell on the past) this then subsequently lead me to discovering reps and what better movements to work on!

I just wanted to create a thread, which I’ll hopefully keep updated. Partly for myself to keep a track of and for anyone else who is interested and/or is wanting to take up watchmaking as a hobbyist.
I liked spending my time over in the Vintage Section however in recent months find myself spending time in the Tech Section, following other people’s journeys like @pyschotee16 @Oascom and @dogwood, to name a few. Inspiring to also share my journey - sorry I haven’t reached out, merely admired from afar.

For anyone wanting to take it up, there is a plethora of information on many forums including this one, about all things watchmaking, follow the appropriate tech sheets for oiling and if this isn’t available, oiling charts are the next best thing.

My time on this journey I have service a range of different movement for friends, family and myself.
I enjoy servicing your typical Rolex Clone movements and anything vintage I can get my hands on fro eBay.
I look forward to sharing my journey, on the bench at the moment is a 90’s ETA 2840 - some low beat goodness which I have decided to give a service.

Caveat: think it may also be worth mentioning, this is not a post to offer my services or any kind of advertisement. I respect the rules and moderators of this forum and the guys that have become trusted members. Moderators please remove if not allowed.


Thanks for sharing this!
 
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unagi

God Luck and Good Speed
Certified
18/9/18
400
373
63
USA
Great thread and content! What microscope do you have? I’ve been meaning to buy one for a while but don’t want to break the bank. Just something to check jewel integrity.
 
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Endo

Known Member
Certified
13/4/22
135
204
43
UK
Thank you, the one I have is an Andonstar Digital Microscope and although little, you can get some good quality and depth out of it.
Hope this helps, can’t remember how much I paid
 

unagi

God Luck and Good Speed
Certified
18/9/18
400
373
63
USA
Thank you, the one I have is an Andonstar Digital Microscope and although little, you can get some good quality and depth out of it.
Hope this helps, can’t remember how much I paid
Thank you!
 
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Endo

Known Member
Certified
13/4/22
135
204
43
UK
Hey, Here is the 3135 assembly as promised, does take a while to write up but hopefully worth it and useful to someone out there!

Starting off here with the keyless works, stem receives moebius 9504,

https://clickpix.org/image/Picture1.z0dnGj] [/url]

installing winding pinion and sliding pinion to the main plate, these get 9504 to the teeth where metal meets metal. I insert the stem while installing the winding and sliding pinion, because they would fall out the bottom of the movement if you didn't. Then time for the yoke for sliding pinion, this is why you need some 9504 on the cut out of the sliding pinion where this sits as there will be some friction on these parts. How the tech sheet guides you through the 3135 the next part is the spring for yoke, however I like to install the yoke for setting wheel first, this also gets 9504 in three spots, the opening where it sits on the post, the opening where the setting lever will interact with this part and the post where the setting wheel will sit, however this comes a little later. Once installed its time for the setting lever itself, the large post to the underside receives 9504, this then slots into the main plate, the spring for setting lever can then be installed and screwed down. this is where I then install the yoke spring, I find it easier to install at this stage, as most will know these springs like to fly and I don't want to be on my hands and knees searching for a part so thin I can barely see it!
Once this is all correctly installed the jumper for setting lever can be installed, on the 3135 this allows you to be in 3 positions, winding, date selection and time selection, on a 3130 you'd have only two positions, time and winding. Where jumper for setting lever interacts with the setting lever it also receives 9504.

https://clickpix.org/image/Picture2.z0dtvc] [/url]

We can now flip the movement over and install the minute pinion, this also gets 9504 to the base and the wall, where it is likely to sit near the main plate. The minute pinion bridge can now be installed and screwed down.

https://clickpix.org/image/Picture2.z0dtvc] [/url]

Flip back over and were back on the dial side, we lubricate three posts here, for minute wheel and two setting wheels.
But firstly we install the cannon pinion, proceeded with the minute wheel and two setting wheels, the motion works cover plate can then be installed.

Movement can then be flipped back over, and now we can install the train of wheels. Firstly I like to start with the mainspring barrel, using a mainspring winder we can wind the mainspring back to circular form, ensuring we grease the mainspring barrel walls with 8213, 9504 to the barrel arbour and then install the mainspring into the barrel, a fairly satisfying procedure.
Before installing the escape wheel, I want to treat several parts with Epilame. I use this to the escape wheel, pallet fork and automatic reversing wheels, usually for 2 minutes and dry before installing. I do this all at the same time, dry them on some watchmakers paper, this usually doesn't take long as Epilame evaporates quickly, but I like to use a blower while steadying the parts.
Epilame is a surface treatment which helps prevent the spread of lubricants.
Then I start with the escape wheel, followed by the second wheel, great wheel and third wheel, this then allows you to install the train wheel bridge and screw down.

https://clickpix.org/image/Picture6.z0dlYi] [/url]
https://clickpix.org/image/Picture5.z0dQzX] [/url]

Balance stop can then be installed to the main plate, along with the crown wheel and winding bridge, this needs to be lubricated separately, starting with the crown wheel core, this gets 9504 to the wall and base, crown wheel can then be installed ensuring this is also lubricated with 9504 to the teeth and top of crown wheel, this can then be screwed down and installed to the main plate.

Barrel bridge can then be installed once train of wheels are spinning freely and screwed down, and then proceed to installing the pallet fork and pallet bridge, pallet jewel receives 9415, in a very small quantity. Once we have all bridges install, we can then lubricate the second wheel, great wheel and third wheel bridge jewels. All shock jewels should be removed and cleaned separately - I like to take my time with these and oil them under a microscope.

https://clickpix.org/image/Picture7.z0dCVp] [/url]
 

Endo

Known Member
Certified
13/4/22
135
204
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UK
We now proceed with installing the core for intermediate crown wheel which receives 9504 to the post walls, the intermediate crown wheel then installed to the core, then the yoke for sliding gear, the gear itself gets HP1300. The post for the click, gets lubricated with 9504, then we can install the spring, and then the click and screw down securely, this then allows the mainspring to hold power once the ratchet wheel is installed. Once wound I like to check if the pallet is holding power, this can be done by a little flick of the tail.

https://clickpix.org/image/Picture9.z0dTi5] [/url]
https://clickpix.org/image/Picture8.z0dpkb] [/url]

Time for the balance to be installed, and it kicks straight into action, followed by installing the balance guard and screwing down.
Now we have a running watch, it's time for the watch to go back onto the timergraph machine, I usually check to see how its running before disassembly and then once the balance is installed. I try to aim for +/- 10 sec/day for rep movements, below 1.0 beat error, after a bit of tweaking, not much this is where we're at; 0 sec/day, 0.0 beat error and 292 amplitude, very happy with this one.

https://clickpix.org/image/IMG-2107.z0kLyX] [/url]
https://clickpix.org/image/z0kWmp] [/url]
https://clickpix.org/image/Picture11.z0dwL2] [/url]

Now we can flip the movement back over to work on the dial side to finish off the motion works, starting here with spring for cam yoke, date wheel post receives 9504 before installing. Cam yoke can then be installed receiving 9504 to the cam jewel post and yoke where this hits the yoke spring. Date finger can then be installed and screwed down, underside of the screw gets lubricated with 9504. Cannon pinion receives HP1300, Hour wheel can then be installed, followed by the intermediate date wheel, intermediate date corrector wheel and date corrector.
I then get the date indicator seating, flip over and install the date jumper, this receives 9504 in various areas, to the post hole and clip where it slide in on the underside, it also gets 9504 to the tip where it meets the date wheel... the pictures will do the explaining more justice than this explanation, instead of using 9504 here I opted for Molykote DX, in this area lubrication minimally is required, however didn't want the possibility of a blue grease making its way onto a date wheel, maybe I'm wrong for doing this but Molykote DX is heavily used in watchmaking. Date indicator seating can then be installed and screwed down with your 4 blue screws, they look awesome! and finally to finish off the assembly the date wheel can be installed. Apologies I though I had taken photos of this process but upon completion and whilst doing the write up, I realised I hadn't :(

But we aren't finished yet, we need to finish off the assembly with the automatic works. I usually start from the bottom up, with the oscillating weight/rotor which received HP1300 to the rotor post, then installing the automatic upper bridge, which allows you to install the pinion for oscillating weight, spring clip and bridle for spring clip, this can be screwed down, its also fairly intuitive with the automatic works. Then we can start with the two reversing wheels and driving wheel for ratchet wheel, this allows us to install the automatic lower bridge and screw down with three screws. all jewels get lubricated with HP1300.

https://clickpix.org/image/Picture13.z0dM7n] [/url]
https://clickpix.org/image/Picture12.z0ddGt] [/url]
 

dogwood

I'm Pretty Popular
Patron
Section Moderator
Certified
7/9/21
2,399
5,216
113
Canada
Fabulous write up. So useful to have these guides.
 
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Pinion Minion

World Class Breaker of Movements
Patron
Certified
5/8/22
2,428
8,562
113
Texas
Thank you, I was wondering whilst doing the write up… whether they’re worth while doing, so I appreciate they are!
It is a HUGE benefit to the members- and I think I speak for everyone when we say how much we appreciate your thoughtful and labor intensive photographs-

Thank you!
 
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Pinion Minion

World Class Breaker of Movements
Patron
Certified
5/8/22
2,428
8,562
113
Texas
Looking at your bench- may I ask where one obtains the undulating mat that holds your tweezers et al?
 
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Knxvlln

Active Member
Certified
14/5/20
250
162
43
United States
This and other thoughtful step by step breakdowns are extremely helpful for visual learners like myself... -seeing a well laid and tagged process such as this inspires confidence and common sense. Thank you! Explaining the purpose of the different greases and chemicals are also very helpful. I've used Lucas gun oil thin and thick on my beaters, it is very helpful to confirm thicker oil is appropriate for jewel lubrication. Thank you for this, one of The most helpful concise posts I've seen thus far.
 

Endo

Known Member
Certified
13/4/22
135
204
43
UK
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Endo

Known Member
Certified
13/4/22
135
204
43
UK
Nice set-up and nice work!

Bench and worklight look awfully similar to mine, Ikea? :ROFLMAO:
Sure is fits the space and does the job!

I have the table raised so it’s elbow/shoulder height, bulb changed for a brighter more concentrated light.
 

Endo

Known Member
Certified
13/4/22
135
204
43
UK
Hey All,

Got a little bit of an easier movement going on today, this is from an old Panerai build with a Unitas/ETA 6497-1 Clone movement, I believe this has been modified as it has no seconds, if I'm not mistaken the 6497-1 has a sub seconds at 9 o'clock and the 6498-1 has the sub seconds at 6 o'clock. There is also a variation between 6497-1 and 6497-2, 1 beating at 18000vph and 2 beating at 21600vph and is a COSC rated movement. This specific movement is a ST36.

Honestly I love these movements and they're great for anyone trying to get into watchmaking, its a manual wound movement based on a pocket watch movement with 17 jewels. What I personally love about these movements are the finishing, admittedly they're not at the level of some movements but for a clone, it has some nice Purlage and Côtes de Genève finishing.

Onto the disassembly. After the movement is disassembled, I then like to inspect the jewels under my microscope, when disassembling this movement and removing the train of wheels I did feel they were a little stuck, this is probably the previous oil that has dried up, It also have a lovely gouge out of the main plate near one jewel.
Here are some photos of me inspecting the jewels, they're defiantly in need of a clean, to agitate the dirt I usually go around the movement and clean it with peg wood, specifically to the jewels and any areas there are excess dirt, this movement is fairly clean but the jewels need some attention. Once this step is complete, now time for the movement to be cleaned, this consist of one clean and two rinse and they a dry.

https://clickpix.org/image/FEE646D6-BE5A-42C6-8FAC-2856B4BA1C84.z0k6oD] [/url]
https://clickpix.org/image/B87AD3F2-B57C-4279-90BE-0178BCD91D13.z0k9gY] [/url]
https://clickpix.org/image/618E794B-3A78-4A3C-8A18-B08399C51457.z0k14s] [/url]
https://clickpix.org/image/B816653D-CA0E-4552-98BE-6E338C928FA8.z0ky13] [/url]
https://clickpix.org/image/8B2017B5-D5E7-49B8-A4CC-E9ADBB871501.z0kIEE] [/url]

Here we have the 6497 movement totally disassembled and cleaned, not as many parts and quite a simple movement but this being a manual wind movement, we don't have any automatic works to contend with.

https://clickpix.org/image/703C23DA-4236-4E8C-9FEF-2B5C943A6849.z0kYHn] [/url]
https://clickpix.org/image/51A93019-1B9D-4C78-9D95-C1FB08C042E2.z0kqt2] [/url]

Onto the assembly starting with the keyless works, Crown receives HP1300 to the locations shown on the picture below, allowing us to then install the winding pinion and sliding pinion. Winding pinion receives Moebius 9504 while the sliding pinion receives HP1300.

https://clickpix.org/image/Picture2.z0dJ3Q] [/url]
https://clickpix.org/image/Picture1.z0db7S] [/url]

Then flip the movement over where we can install the screw for setting lever, the opening on the main plate is lubricated with HP1300, this exercise can get a little tricky, having to flip the movement back over, ensuring the screw doesn't fall out - sometimes I put a blob of rodico covering it. When can then place the setting lever into place and turn the movement over again to screw the setting lever screw to the setting lever, this locks the stem into the movement.

Trickiest part out of the way, we can finish off the keyless works, lubricating the posts for the setting wheel, intermediate setting wheel and minute wheel followed by the setting lever, setting wheel, intermediate setting wheel and minute wheel, I then like to install the yoke spring, holding it in place with a plastic stick or either some purpose shaved pegwood. The setting lever jumper can then be installed, lubricating to the setting lever jumper and setting lever, these areas need to be lubricated as its metal on metal.

https://clickpix.org/image/Picture3.z0d0rW] [/url]

Flip the movement over and onto the train of wheels, very different to the ETA/Unitas 6497-1, this clone has a pallet bridge, then a bridge for the third wheel, second wheel and centre wheel. I like to ensure the mainspring barrel is installed prior to installing the train of wheels, once all seated and freely spinning, this can be checked by moving the wheels with a piece of pegwood, the individual bridges can be screwed down. Escape wheel and third wheel jewels can be oiled with 9010, while the second wheel and centre wheel jewels are oiled with HP1300 - this is to both sides of the movement. Apologies I kind of skipped passed the mainspring assembly, I'm greasing the barrel walls with 8213 thick grease, while the barrel arbor itself receives HP1300.

https://clickpix.org/image/Picture6.z0kZmK] [/url]
https://clickpix.org/image/Picture5.z0dgc8] [/url]
https://clickpix.org/image/Picture4.z0dVyL] [/url]

Train of wheels installed, secured and freely spinning, we can now proceed with installing the barrel bridge, once installed, crown wheel ring can also be installed and lubricated with HP1300, followed by installing crown wheel, click spring, click and ratchet wheel in that order.

https://clickpix.org/image/Picture7.z0kzS1] [/url]
https://clickpix.org/image/Picture8.z0dcwR] [/url]
 

Endo

Known Member
Certified
13/4/22
135
204
43
UK
Now time for the pallet and pallet bridge, I like to wind the movement after these are installed and give the movement a quick check to see if it is holding power, this can be done by a flick of the tail to the pallet, once I know the pallet is holding power, I then lubricate the pallet stone with 9415.

https://clickpix.org/image/Picture9.z0kHej] [/url]

Time for the moment of truth, I have no doubt this won't start running as the reassembly has gone very smooth, Balance installed and the watch is up and running.

https://clickpix.org/image/Picture12.z0kKr4] [/url]
https://clickpix.org/image/Picture11.z0kjCv] [/url]

We can now flip the movement over again, lubricating the centre wheel with 9504 and installing the cannon pinion.

https://clickpix.org/image/Picture10.z0kA3c] [/url]
The movement can now be put onto the timergraph machine and regulated, this one is running at +1 sec/day with a beat error of 0.1ms, there does seem to be some noise on the timergraph machine, however this is a personal watch and I'm happy with how this is running.

https://clickpix.org/image/EE18C0D0-E2CC-473A-BC92-347EA63A2D6B.z0wJJ8] [/url]

A very minimal amount of HP1300 to the cannon pinion and time for the hour wheel to be installed.

https://clickpix.org/image/Picture13.z0khEI] [/url]

Voila, another movement service under the belt and a very nice movement to service.
 

Endo

Known Member
Certified
13/4/22
135
204
43
UK
Error in 3rd last image… oil to third wheel jewel to be HP1300, 9010 shown in error on my marked up picture