- 30/9/06
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I put a glas caseback on mine and found that pic on chrono24. Took a pic with mine in front of the Ipad showing the gen. I like to see that movement once in a while
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Noob Daytona vs ARF Daytona
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I put a glas caseback on mine and found that pic on chrono24. Took a pic with mine in front of the Ipad showing the gen. I like to see that movement once in a while
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rolexwatchfan
Put Some Respect On My Name
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The best! Get yours here: http://www.customwatchconcepts.com/product_info.php?products_id=22#horizontalTab2
The best! Get yours here: http://www.customwatchconcepts.com/product_info.php?products_id=22#horizontalTab2
Yeah that movement is indeed beatiful. If i were to get a daytona, i would definitely buy that caseback
Hey Guys, tried searching the forum. What is the difference between the 116500LN v1 Noob Daytona and v2 Noob Daytona. Spoke to a TD and he said there is only 1 version??
Last edited:
- 30/9/06
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Printing on the dial is better, clasp and bracelet with SEL have improved. Still not as gen but better
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Printing on the dial is better, clasp and bracelet with SEL have improved. Still not as gen but better
Sent from my iPad with Tapatalk
Disagree mate, i've a "V2" 116520 black dial and clasp and SEL are pure shit.
SEL are great on QC, but they have a crazy movement between case and sel with a huge space, this is the fault machining of the hole for the springbars inside the bracelet that has wrong tolerances.
The clasp is disgusting, it is poorly finished by hand and aliexpress clasp compared with mine are better..... and that's sucks.
black dial of 116520 on this "V2" has better print compared to first batch, but these subdials still poor, and they give the watch a look of a beach rep watch, totally wrong and cheap.
To me this watch feeling it's extremely cheap.
The only thing that is worth is the movement, the rest is all disgust and feels extremely cheap: bracelet, clasp, dial ... all horrible compared to an ARF watch.
The dial must be replaced, the glass seal must be replaced, the bezel must be replaced ... these are the basic things to make this watch acceptable IMHO.
The white dial has a much better dial
The SEL and the clasp were NOT updated, only luck of QC as it was for the first batch
I have a project currently: How to make this new noob pleasant with little budget. Stay tuned, something nice will come out in reference to the amount spent
However i do not think it is correct to call "v2" meaningless because there is no real V2, it would be more correct to call "V1, second batch")
- 30/9/06
- 11,646
- 1,241
- 113
Disagree mate, i've a "V2" 116520 black dial and clasp and SEL are pure shit.
SEL are great on QC, but they have a crazy movement between case and sel with a huge space, this is the fault machining of the hole for the springbars inside the bracelet that has wrong tolerances.
The clasp is disgusting, it is poorly finished by hand and aliexpress clasp compared with mine are better..... and that's sucks.
black dial of 116520 on this "V2" has better print compared to first batch, but these subdials still poor, and they give the watch a look of a beach rep watch, totally wrong and cheap.
To me this watch feeling it's extremely cheap.
The only thing that is worth is the movement, the rest is all disgust and feels extremely cheap: bracelet, clasp, dial ... all horrible compared to an ARF watch.
The dial must be replaced, the glass seal must be replaced, the bezel must be replaced ... these are the basic things to make this watch acceptable IMHO.
The white dial has a much better dial
The SEL and the clasp were NOT updated, only luck of QC as it was for the first batch
I have a project currently: How to make this new noob pleasant with little budget. Stay tuned, something nice will come out in reference to the amount spent
However i do not think it is correct to call "v2" meaningless because there is no real V2, it would be more correct to call "V1, second batch")
Did you read what I wrote about ARF vs Noob and clasp and bracelet? We all know that the white dial is better, look at the pics. Regarding the SEL, I must then be lucky with 4 watches which have no gap. I feel sorry for you. Regarding the crystal seal, you do not need replacement, just shave the tachy and the seal, easy modd. Attached some pics on how to get more gen like. And to be onest, I do not care if it is v1 or v2 or batch number 10. Call it what ever you want. And loking forward to your little budget project.
Rep bezel size, gen is 2.48 mm
after shaving
gen size now achieved by getting the bezel to 2.5 mm and the shaving the gasket by .4 mm
Sent from my iPad with Tapatalk
Did you read what I wrote about ARF vs Noob and clasp and bracelet? We all know that the white dial is better, look at the pics. Regarding the SEL, I must then be lucky with 4 watches which have no gap. I feel sorry for you. Regarding the crystal seal, you do not need replacement, just shave the tachy and the seal, easy modd. Attached some pics on how to get more gen like. And to be onest, I do not care if it is v1 or v2 or batch number 10. Call it what ever you want. And loking forward to your little budget project.
Rep bezel size, gen is 2.48 mm
after shaving
gen size now achieved by getting the bezel to 2.5 mm and the shaving the gasket by .4 mm
Sent from my iPad with Tapatalk
Yep, unfortunally i've got a bad sample batch and my sel seems not good. In the project i would replace the bracelet with a leather strap with End Links. Then the watch should be fine, and classic
However my project include an ARF steel bezel that seems mesure also 2.5 mm, BUT it has a vertical lateral profile compared with gen, and noob has correct profile, but unfortunally it's higher than 0.3/0.4 than genuine and arf. And noob unfortunally has a also a bad font, with too thin numbers characters.
I will shaved a little bit the ARF bezel to reduce the vertical effect that give the bezel a high profile even if it has the same height as the genuine.
Then i will replace the dial, beacuse the Noob one has a good print quality, but subdials are too far away from the gen.
i've try to find a good 116520 dial with good price, but someone had buy before me a good chromalight dial that was NOS at 800 euro including shipping on Chrono24
In the end I did not find a dial at a good price and I evaluated other options.
The last one was on the ARF dial, which I had ordered but later I spoke to him for a BP dial.
I can not wait to assemble him to see the final result
I'm undecided whether to buy a tube set / crown gen, but I read that to install the tube gen must be modified something that I did not understand if it is the tube, or the case
We'll see
rolexwatchfan
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I've try to find a good 116520 dial with good price, but someone had buy before me a good chromalight dial that was NOS at 800 euro including shipping on Chrono24
In the end I did not find a dial at a good price and I evaluated other options.
That would be me. Better luck next time! :lolzor:
ha ha ha ha damn, i was in contact with the dealer from a month to buy this dial and i had told him that i buy it after summer holidays... tooooo late
good catch mate When the daytona arf came out I had immediately made a review on the merits and defects of this watch. The version "V1" had the wrong dial of the ceramic version with the number characters of the subdials too thin and the reahut was too high, just as the bezel font could have more fat numbers.
I with other users contacted Angus, who works for JF / ARF, saying that the dial was totally wrong for 116520 and that the numbers were too thin.
The dial has been updated successively, the reahut has been lowered, and the numbers and also the bezel has been updated.
The only bad luck is that the numbers are now too fat ... the subdial font is correct for 116520 now, and no longer ceramic version as V1, but the numbers are too fat, and so it's wrong.
BP has always been famous for making very beautiful quadrants in general.
The BP daytona dial does not have beautiful chrome indexes like on ARF and Noob, but it has a better overall font with subdials that based on the light have a dark / gold reflection just like gen, and the upper lettering personally I find the best among i daytona REP as a layout.
The current Noob 4130 has a black dial with subdials too shiny ... he screams: "I'm fake" from all over
Needless to say, it is difficult to find an ARF dial from the factory (but I did) and it is easier to find a BP dial, but both these dials are NOT plug & play with SA4130, because they are for 7750
Thanks for the explanation I was planning to put the ARF dial on the ceramic panda. Do you think the BP is better on the panda dial as well?
Sdc83
Renowned Member
- 20/1/13
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@lukko what do you think about Noob's lugs, compared with Arf's lugs?Disagree mate, i've a "V2" 116520 black dial and clasp and SEL are pure shit.
SEL are great on QC, but they have a crazy movement between case and sel with a huge space, this is the fault machining of the hole for the springbars inside the bracelet that has wrong tolerances.
The clasp is disgusting, it is poorly finished by hand and aliexpress clasp compared with mine are better..... and that's sucks.
black dial of 116520 on this "V2" has better print compared to first batch, but these subdials still poor, and they give the watch a look of a beach rep watch, totally wrong and cheap.
To me this watch feeling it's extremely cheap.
The only thing that is worth is the movement, the rest is all disgust and feels extremely cheap: bracelet, clasp, dial ... all horrible compared to an ARF watch.
The dial must be replaced, the glass seal must be replaced, the bezel must be replaced ... these are the basic things to make this watch acceptable IMHO.
The white dial has a much better dial
The SEL and the clasp were NOT updated, only luck of QC as it was for the first batch
I have a project currently: How to make this new noob pleasant with little budget. Stay tuned, something nice will come out in reference to the amount spent
However i do not think it is correct to call "v2" meaningless because there is no real V2, it would be more correct to call "V1, second batch")
on 116500 between arf and bp dial i would go with arf
i think that the ARF mid case, except the machining of the down side of crown guards, it's better than Noob case especially on the profile. The Noob has totally vertical profile compared with gen and that's so ugly.... ruined whole watch IMHO. Gen tona case it's rounded.
Noob lugs are a bit "fatty" and with wrong angle. ARF as better lugs.
Sdc83
Renowned Member
- 20/1/13
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Well, I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks arf's midcase is better and more gen like than Noob's midcase. I save only the movement of this Noob. Also rehaut of Noob is too high, like that of the Jf daytona with a23j movement.
I am with you, ARF all the way. I do not care for non-working chornos on a rep anyway! I am so happy with my ARF.
lukko Not sure i see what you mean, as I am pretty sure I have a v1 and the dial looks good to me, as does the bezel insert.
All I see on the ARF is those two fake pinions.
All I see on the noob is the horrible dial and bezel.
So frustrating but at least it stops me from spending money especially as everyone keeps buying any gen dial that becomes available.
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All I see on the noob is the horrible dial and bezel.
So frustrating but at least it stops me from spending money especially as everyone keeps buying any gen dial that becomes available.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
As far as those pinions go, it is very hard to see it in person. You would need to be at least a few inches away from the watch to see it and then it depends on the lighting. Yes if it is angled a certain way the pinions are all identical, and you do not see the "fake pinions" so to speak. I am literally staring at the dial I can barely see it (I am also far sighted so that helps in my case as I can barely see anything up close!)
Looking at zoomed in and blown up photos on a huge computer screen does not mean anything, in reality it is very hard to see in the flesh.