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New Noob daytona 904L V2

Dantona1984

Active Member
6/2/17
217
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England
The moral of the story is unless somebody is going to walk up to you with a microscope all they've got superhuman eyesight . The chances of you getting called out with this amazing watch are very low. All three of which are still running very accurately with me treating them very badly.

Is it worth the money? Well just from the arrogance of the Rolex dealers in the video it's worth the money. If I had a genuine version of this watch I definitely would sell it because with such extremely accurate replicas in my opinion you can't tell the difference now so how good are they going to get in the future.


Totally agree with nearly off of this. Having owned a gen 116520 white face, a noob 116520, and now a franken (several gen parts) I'd say the dial is most important. It’s the white gold details that separate the gen from the rep. When sunlight hits it you can really see the quality.
 

Karlus

Renowned Member
4/7/17
705
321
63
Has anyone been able to get their bezel done with the platinum sputter process?
 

SOLEX

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Haven't followed up in a while. Would the latest noob v2.2 white 500 dial be comparable with the ARF Dial? Are they as good as ARF? I have an ARF now, and wanted to swap the bezel and bracelet over to NOOB. If the dial needs swapping, I will do it, but if NOOB updated the dial to be nearly on par with ARF I will leave it as is.
 

ssouthall6

Respected Member
10/10/13
3,539
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Haven't followed up in a while. Would the latest noob v2.2 white 500 dial be comparable with the ARF Dial? Are they as good as ARF? I have an ARF now, and wanted to swap the bezel and bracelet over to NOOB. If the dial needs swapping, I will do it, but if NOOB updated the dial to be nearly on par with ARF I will leave it as is.

ARF is still far better on dial and bezel. I didn't notice much difference in the bracelet to be honest


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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SOLEX

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ARF is still far better on dial and bezel. I didn't notice much difference in the bracelet to be honest


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Interesting! Thought the ARF bracelet had a better fit/finish and especially a better clasp. I think my ARF has one of the best rep Rolex bracelets I have ever had.

Noted on dial and bezel, will swap both from my ARF. My original plan was to put out a WTB for "head only" on a 116520 or 116500 and swap parts over, but if that does not pan out I will order a new one from our dealers and swap over dial and bezel, and decide what I want to do on the bracelet once I have both in my hands.
 

ssouthall6

Respected Member
10/10/13
3,539
1,563
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Interesting! Thought the ARF bracelet had a better fit/finish and especially a better clasp. I think my ARF has one of the best rep Rolex bracelets I have ever had.

Noted on dial and bezel, will swap both from my ARF. My original plan was to put out a WTB for "head only" on a 116520 or 116500 and swap parts over, but if that does not pan out I will order a new one from our dealers and swap over dial and bezel, and decide what I want to do on the bracelet once I have both in my hands.

The clasp on the v1/v2 316l noob was crap
The clasp on the v2 904l is inferior to ARF, but not hugely.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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mega12

I'm Pretty Popular
17/10/17
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113
The moral of the story is unless somebody is going to walk up to you with a microscope all they've got superhuman eyesight . The chances of you getting called out with this amazing watch are very low. All three of which are still running very accurately with me treating them very badly.

Is it worth the money? Well just from the arrogance of the Rolex dealers in the video it's worth the money. If I had a genuine version of this watch I definitely would sell it because with such extremely accurate replicas in my opinion you can't tell the difference now so how good are they going to get in the future.


Totally agree with nearly off of this. Having owned a gen 116520 white face, a noob 116520, and now a franken (several gen parts) I'd say the dial is most important. It’s the white gold details that separate the gen from the rep. When sunlight hits it you can really see the quality.

For me it’s also the dial as the biggest tell.
The print is much more crisp on gen, the white is a different white, the sub dial markers are much more obvious, the whole watch looks different, once you changed it to gen.

2818140554e6afb9ab68ce667bf1f2f0.jpg

65d0c493b8285ead33bf2abc5b79e529.jpg
 

peterpl

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24/7/11
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Ok finally got Tapatalk to work. Here are some wrist photos showing the white 116500 seems smaller on the wrist to me than other 40mm watches I have had. The SEL are Def not perfect but do not bother me much. It is running about five seconds fast per day. I will send it for a service and water proofing when I have something else to wear.

d6cd4425c902ab4e85ab9bd1588ef383.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Whoever is working on your watch they need to take care marking those hands. I can see they are marked/scratched pretty badly.
 
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Foxxfire

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20/1/17
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For me it’s also the dial as the biggest tell.
The print is much more crisp on gen, the white is a different white, the sub dial markers are much more obvious, the whole watch looks different, once you changed it to gen.

2818140554e6afb9ab68ce667bf1f2f0.jpg

That's the dial of the 116520 (white gold subdials rings). The 116520LN has black subdial rings.
AFAIK Noob has done the most recent improvements on this dial with the black subdial rings for the black ceramic bezel versions. I am not sure if the factories have worked recently on the white gold subdial versions...?
 

Foxxfire

FoX, the Patron
20/1/17
1,150
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EU / CH
What you can really spot w/o any magnification is, that the edges of the "white gold" markers are somewhat rounded on the GEN dial:

jrolex-daytona-whitedial-detail.jpg
 

Digital.

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Whoever is working on your watch they need to take care marking those hands. I can see they are marked/scratched pretty badly.

I have ordered quite a lot of these hands and unfortunately some of them are pretty dirty or marked..
 

Digital.

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The clasp on the v1/v2 316l noob was crap
The clasp on the v2 904l is inferior to ARF, but not hugely.




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totally agree, also the print on the noob dial can be pretty poor
 

Spitfire63

Renowned Member
29/4/18
662
504
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TE=Titanium;n8042195]Newb here: I've been reading a lot on these forums and I am REALLY itching to get a rep Daytona. The only thing that stops me at the moment are those damn curved R's on the ceramic bezel of the Noob. I just cannot unsee it. (And ARF is not an option because of dead dials, and I'm too lazy to franken)...[/QUOTE]

You do realise just how big the R's are actually going to be, and not the large blown up size you've been looking at on your screen.
https://forum.replica-watch.info/fo...sion/7914697-size-scale-expectation-v-reality
 

mega12

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That's the dial of the 116520 (white gold subdials rings). The 116520LN has black subdial rings.
AFAIK Noob has done the most recent improvements on this dial with the black subdial rings for the black ceramic bezel versions. I am not sure if the factories have worked recently on the white gold subdial versions...?

The problem is: i like the white one instead of the black one ;) so whatever they improved, the white still needs some mods IMO
 

Phatfos

Getting To Know The Place
8/6/19
42
5
0
Whoever is working on your watch they need to take care marking those hands. I can see they are marked/scratched pretty badly.

They are dirty...looks like fingerprints on them. I have not had anyone work on it. Just whoever put it together in China. I assume they don't have the cleanest practices.
 

Swiss Maiden

Getting To Know The Place
20/9/19
87
21
8
Greetings gentlemen,

I would greatly appreciate some feedback regarding these V3 BLACK Dial pictures. (This is my first watch ever, so I am humbly trying to consult with the actual experts.)

My main considerations are:

1.) It appears it has the thinner "V2.2" subdials. I just want to DOUBLE check that these are in fact the more "gen-like" subdials.

Additionally, since these are some of the very first pics we obtain for the black dial v3, it would greatly benefit the community if someone like Mr Scott can sketch out some lines and compare it with a gen (or even a v3 white* dial).

2.) It appears to have the updated V3 bezel. However, is it adequately aligned? (What do you guys think about the white paint, to my eyes it seems a little thinner more "gen-like"?)

3.) It appears that the SELs are kinda rough, in particular the bottom one.... Thoughts on them and the clasp?

4.) Dial and subdials appears to have crisp printing, but the Daytona red seems a tad too dark to me.

Any other feedback you seasoned enthusiasts like or dislike on this specific V3 watch?

Thank you very much for the help and kind attention!!!!

Links:

https://clickpix.org/image/0926-1.N4hv
https://clickpix.org/image/0926-2.NMn1
https://clickpix.org/image/0926-3.Nsuj
https://clickpix.org/image/0926-4.NvZ4
https://clickpix.org/image/0926-5.N7II
https://clickpix.org/image/0926-6.NEXc
https://clickpix.org/image/0926-7.NNxX
https://clickpix.org/image/0926-14.NfWi
 

gianttg

Renowned Member
11/4/15
500
27
28
Greetings gentlemen,

I would greatly appreciate some feedback regarding these V3 BLACK Dial pictures. (This is my first watch ever, so I am humbly trying to consult with the actual experts.)

My main considerations are:

1.) It appears it has the thinner "V2.2" subdials. I just want to DOUBLE check that these are in fact the more "gen-like" subdials.

Additionally, since these are some of the very first pics we obtain for the black dial v3, it would greatly benefit the community if someone like Mr Scott can sketch out some lines and compare it with a gen (or even a v3 white* dial).

2.) It appears to have the updated V3 bezel. However, is it adequately aligned? (What do you guys think about the white paint, to my eyes it seems a little thinner more "gen-like"?)

3.) It appears that the SELs are kinda rough, in particular the bottom one.... Thoughts on them and the clasp?

4.) Dial and subdials appears to have crisp printing, but the Daytona red seems a tad too dark to me.

Any other feedback you seasoned enthusiasts like or dislike on this specific V3 watch?

Thank you very much for the help and kind attention!!!!

Links:

https://clickpix.org/image/0926-1.N4hv
https://clickpix.org/image/0926-2.NMn1
https://clickpix.org/image/0926-3.Nsuj
https://clickpix.org/image/0926-4.NvZ4
https://clickpix.org/image/0926-5.N7II
https://clickpix.org/image/0926-6.NEXc
https://clickpix.org/image/0926-7.NNxX
https://clickpix.org/image/0926-14.NfWi

your watch is ok
 

WATCH HACKER

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24/4/19
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Currently in South Hampton
Greetings gentlemen,

I would greatly appreciate some feedback regarding these V3 BLACK Dial pictures. (This is my first watch ever, so I am humbly trying to consult with the actual experts.)

My main considerations are:

1.) It appears it has the thinner "V2.2" subdials. I just want to DOUBLE check that these are in fact the more "gen-like" subdials.

Additionally, since these are some of the very first pics we obtain for the black dial v3, it would greatly benefit the community if someone like Mr Scott can sketch out some lines and compare it with a gen (or even a v3 white* dial).

2.) It appears to have the updated V3 bezel. However, is it adequately aligned? (What do you guys think about the white paint, to my eyes it seems a little thinner more "gen-like"?)

3.) It appears that the SELs are kinda rough, in particular the bottom one.... Thoughts on them and the clasp?

4.) Dial and subdials appears to have crisp printing, but the Daytona red seems a tad too dark to me.

Any other feedback you seasoned enthusiasts like or dislike on this specific V3 watch?

Thank you very much for the help and kind attention!!!!

Links:

https://clickpix.org/image/0926-1.N4hv
https://clickpix.org/image/0926-2.NMn1
https://clickpix.org/image/0926-3.Nsuj
https://clickpix.org/image/0926-4.NvZ4
https://clickpix.org/image/0926-5.N7II
https://clickpix.org/image/0926-6.NEXc
https://clickpix.org/image/0926-7.NNxX
https://clickpix.org/image/0926-14.NfWi

It looks good for me. Bezel is okay, the subdials looks thinner