I see the inside of the case even has the notch carved out for Gen like mounting of the movement. that’s the first time I’ve seen that on a rep.
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New Movement: VR3135
- Thread starter kobe24
- Start date
Yes, I agree, but also the SH had this problem, maybe just regulating the date seating can fix it.
I’ve never had any luck with the Asian copy ETA movements. They have all failed on me and it’s Usually the date mechanism. My arf 116610 with a2824 date wheel hasn’t worked since the day I got it. It will quickset but won’t change by itself at midnight.
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Porscheguy21
Getting To Know The Place
- 31/8/18
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occb2 What are your thoughts on this new VR3135 movement?
Also if I've read this right folks, the VR3135 is a small upgraded version of the SH3135 (which means I could just drop it in my V9). It should accept a lot of gen parts including the DW and the winding rotor and overall a more stable rep movement?
Also if I've read this right folks, the VR3135 is a small upgraded version of the SH3135 (which means I could just drop it in my V9). It should accept a lot of gen parts including the DW and the winding rotor and overall a more stable rep movement?
- 10/6/14
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Until I work on one I don't know. By visual inspection Tickle has it spot on. As far as the balance shock, that to me is a big upgrade. If a regular date wheel fits that also is a big upgrade. The date finger also a big upgrade. I just worked on a watch and even with the mod for the date plate the real date wheel is working but has flaws and will stall if not moved to 4 am. This, if works will save the upgrade of all the date advance parts and the calendar plate.
I will reach out to TD's to see if I can get one in hand and play around with it.
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I've got one incoming from watchfinder at 218$ so I will let everyone know what I find.
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I would say your experience with clone ETA movements is the exception rather than the rule. I have about 18 reps, all with ETA clones (except one Miyota 9015) and only one has died after 6 months. I just serviced it this weekend and it's running great about +3 S/D, 310 amp, 0.2 BE. From what I have read here the overwhelming majority of issues with movements come from the superclones, SA and SH.
Sounds like the spring in your date jumper may be weak. A swap with a new one could fix it. Also possible the datewheel is dragging on the backside of the dial, spacer may not be correct height. A dial washer might fix it.
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I would say your experience with clone ETA movements is the exception rather than the rule. I have about 18 reps, all with ETA clones (except one Miyota 9015) and only one has died after 6 months. I just serviced it this weekend and it's running great about +3 S/D, 310 amp, 0.2 BE. From what I have read here the overwhelming majority of issues with movements come from the superclones, SA and SH.
Sounds like the spring in your date jumper may be weak. A swap with a new one could fix it. Also possible the datewheel is dragging on the backside of the dial, spacer may not be correct height. A dial washer might fix it.
The A2824/2836 is solid but the opposite of a rolex movement unless you go back to a 3035 and or the new 3235. For all who want a 16610 or a 116610 or any of the other assortment Rolex watches of the last 20+ years and use the real dial and hands and date wheel are all stuck with the rep 3135.
That being said. I have a watch that has been running a Yuki 3135 that my friend Mike made and serviced over 4 years ago. Still running amazing and not loosing time. Now that I service them myself I have SH3135's hybrid with rolex parts that run amazing.
Where the A-eta reps are good but I have not had great luck with them and have to service them also. Only advantage is price on parts or replacement price. But you do not have a good date wheel or a good dial variation or good hands for that case that are the quality of real rolex and if you buy real rolex you have to cut the feet off the dial and some have got a real date disk to work on ETA's although I have never seen it or got it too work.
To me, a clone 3135 that is clean and inspected is the way to go. If one wants a rep out of the box and isn't going to put a dial or hands or date wheel on it and doesn't care that it responds opposite of a 3135 then of course a ETA rep is an amazing watch. I would order a real ETA 2824 for $160 and throw that sucker on the watch and you will have an amazing watch for years to come.
I ordered the VRF 116610LN last night. So hope to have it in a week or two. I will let all know how it is.
- 12/3/18
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You summed it all up perfectly. Its like when the ARF 2824 and the Noob V9 3135 Subs came out. Do you want OOTB or a customizable upgrader? So far I've been quite happy with all of my OOTB's and it goes a long way that I can work on them myself. I've had 4 gen Rolexes so maybe that contributes to me not wanting to put more money into a rep than I have to. Or maybe I'm just easy to please, lol. I keep all of my watches on winders so I rarely operate the stems at home let alone in public. Nothing about the ETA's is a drawback to me. I see only advantages.
I am interested on the 3135's and plan to learn how to service them as well. More out of curiosity and an appreciation for the craftsmanship than necessity. Once I can do that I would be more inclined to buy a rep for myself that has one. I still doubt I would ever upgrade much more than the crystal on any rep, I just don't see the need. It's great to not feel that need! These are beautiful reps as they come to us.
Looking forward to your review of the VR3135, Rob. It would be great to know there's a clone 3135 that really takes it to the next level. Working on a quality movement is so much better than worrying about a part breaking that you can't replace.
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I just took apart the ARF 116610LN. The 3135 is not really upgraded. Exact issues that plague the SH3135 is found in the SH3135 V2. What I can tell you is that it is clean and oiled. I will post pics in a sec. The issues with the date flip is still there. I tried to put in a date wheel and same problem with tightness and not flipping. So we are still stuck with the same problems. It runs with zero beat error and a normal Amp not crazy 300's like the dirty dry SH. Here is a pic.
And here is how clean it is. I didn't wear finger cots so I may have some hand grease on it. LOL.
As one can see, for example with the reversing gears, it is oiled. I took the auto winding off and found everything clean and well oiled. Not bad for a SH3135. Only issue is, the stupid calendar system,. If you use their date wheel which is just terrible, then it works fine after 4 am. If you use a real one, you are going to havre to modify the calendar plate and suffer the same issues with the lack of reliability of the date wheel.
One thing I do have to say. The band on the ARF 116610LN, the 97200, is freaking amazing. Even the engraving in the end links are getting scary. I will take pics tomorrow and post and compare to my real 97200's. All kidding aside. I have a real 116610LV and an all real 116610LN minus Noob V9 904 case, both with real 97200's and if I didn't have them, I would wear the ARF 904 97200 band with zero problems. The clasp is nice but the scuba adjustment needs and oil treatment.
I cant wait to get the VRF. I do like how the case has the notch for the 3135. Like stated above, last one was the V6S noob. That case is an epic leap forward for this hobby. If this case looks as good and just looks right, I will be using a new case on my 116610LN.
Anyway KJ2020 I too love some of the out of the box reps that are coming out. It is amazing how much this hobby has gotten in the last 5 plus years. Epic leaps. If you were to tell me that we would have a 904 1 to 1 116610 case 5 years ago I wouldn't had believed it. Heck look at the noob Daytona with the 4130. I threw a real dial, crystal, bezel, hands, chrono gear, main spring and a keyless part that was broken. Thing looks and runs like my buddies real $16,000 one. I am really in love with this hobby and can't wait for the future of it. I too own a bunch of real Rolex. Sports line. My 16610LN, 16613LN, 116610LV, 16700 Pepsi. The first two don't get any wrist time because I got them from Rolex direct and after the last services from Rolex they made it to my safe deposit. I did take the 16613 out for Christmas but it will go back next week. Those have all the paperwork and stuff. The last 2 I build from scratch all Rolex parts. No paperwork but I do have boxes lol. I have my wives two and she never wears them. She loves her Apple Watch! Crazy.
I love my collection. I have my 16610LV that is all rolex but mid case. I have my 16623 that is a Sean case and everything else is Rolex on the head but the movement. That is a yuki with tons of real rolex parts and has been running forever. It has a WM9 93253 band. Doesnt really go with the 16623 but looks great. I have an old 16610LN tritium dial with a Yuki 3135. That has a real open 6 an 9 date wheel, real crystal, real dial, real bezel insert in a star time case and a real 93150 band. Aftermarket hands to match the patina on the dial. The dial is spidering and also pitting. Amazing looking.
Anyway I can chat watches all day. I have to approve sales and do Mod duties. I will post about the new movement as soon as I get the watch.
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