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New Clean GMT - First Impressions

KJ2020

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Thanks for the images and review. Is the bezel and dial of the Clean GMT an easy swap with genuine ones? I've got a gen bezel and gen dial from a 116710LN and I'd like to build a franken and I'm considering the clean as base after reading this post. Thanks in advance.
For 126x GMT models, the DD3285 sets time like the gen.

3285 - backward crown = fwd hands

For 116x GMT models (CLEAN still makes the all black insert 116710 LN and TT 116713 LN), the previous VR3186 movement sets time like these gens and will be different from gen if CLEAN puts the DD3285 in them.

3186 - fwd crown = fwd hands
In addition to my quoted info above, you should know about dial differences between 126x and 116x dials.

The latest CLEAN DD3285 movements are made for 126x dials, which have no dial feet. The DD3285 movement does not have dial feet holes (with anchor screws). The 126x dials have underside rims with slots that interlock in the date plate perimeter tab protrusions. So there is not really an optimal way to mate a 116x dial like yours to a 3285 movement.

The SH3285 (which CLEAN is not using atm) does have dial feet holes with anchor screws but they are not in the gen 3186 positions of 13 and 37 minutes. They are in about 24 and 54 minutes (go figure).

So if you want to build a 116x CLEAN base Franken, you should make sure to get a CLEAN model with the VR3186 movement, both for correct time setting direction of your model, and for ease of dial installation.

Red line indicates stem location, white arrows point to dial feet holes
3rkxMp.jpg


3rkb1b.jpg


3rkVD5.jpg
 
Last edited:

SubNot

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In addition to my quoted info above, you should know about dial differences between 126x and 116x dials.

The latest CLEAN DD3285 movements are made for 126x dials, which have no dial feet. The DD3285 date plate does not have dial feet holes (with anchor screws). The 126x dials have underside rims with slots that interlock in the date plate perimeter tab protrusions. So there is not really an optimal way to mate a 116x dial like yours to a 3285 movement.

The SH3285 (which CLEAN is not using atm) does have dial feet holes but they are not in the gen 3186 positions of 13 and 37 minutes. They are in about 25 and 55 minutes (go figure).

So if you want to build a CLEAN base Franken, you should make sure to get a CLEAN model with the VR3186 movement, both for correct time setting direction of your model, and for ease of dial installation.

Red line indicates stem location, white arrows point to dial feet holes
3rkxMp.jpg


3rkb1b.jpg


3rkVD5.jpg
Thanks a lot for the detailed information, very helpful. I was indeed considering the VR3186 as I wanted to match the build and I thought it’s a safe bet to go for that movement. Glad you confirmed all. Thanks again!
 
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GWT#1

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Where the bluegrass sways!
I have the San Martin GMT that’s on the jubilee there bezel is rock solid. My brother has a gen of the GMT Master II LN version and the San Martin has to me a much better feeling bezel design, takes more force to rotate and detects for the stop is so much firmer than the gen…. I may just have gotten a great bezel on mine “SM” but all the reviews I’ve seen plus my experience with there other watches I have 5 total it truly is much better bezel feel!! My brother’s GMT the bezel will rotate while wearing it that’s what I dislike about Rolex GMT’s .
 
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vodamerc

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So if you want to build a 116x CLEAN base Franken, you should make sure to get a CLEAN model with the VR3186 movement, both for correct time setting direction of your model, and for ease of dial installation.
I have a 116710LN super franken at the moment based on a VR3186 clean. The only let down is the case. This new one looks much better but from what I've read a VR3186 won't fit in this new case?
 

CTime

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I have a 116710LN super franken at the moment based on a VR3186 clean. The only let down is the case. This new one looks much better but from what I've read a VR3186 won't fit in this new case?
As for what I know, they can't fit
 

Journeyman

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Sorry for the lame question, I understand the movements are different between the old and latest, but will genuine hands from a 3186 fit on a 3285?
 

WatchSmith.US

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No, one snaps on like a Tupperware lid and the other has dial feet.

You cannot swap dials from 3186 to 3285 without ghetto mods, mods I would not do.

Do it right or not at all.
Your Tupperware lid analogy is a great description of how 126xxx dials attach. I will use that from now on!
 
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wildlycrafted

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Are the v2 the standard models now and does the link still have the steel inox spacing issue? How does the new v2 compare to the v1?
 

SubNot

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In addition to my quoted info above, you should know about dial differences between 126x and 116x dials.

The latest CLEAN DD3285 movements are made for 126x dials, which have no dial feet. The DD3285 movement does not have dial feet holes (with anchor screws). The 126x dials have underside rims with slots that interlock in the date plate perimeter tab protrusions. So there is not really an optimal way to mate a 116x dial like yours to a 3285 movement.

The SH3285 (which CLEAN is not using atm) does have dial feet holes with anchor screws but they are not in the gen 3186 positions of 13 and 37 minutes. They are in about 24 and 54 minutes (go figure).

So if you want to build a 116x CLEAN base Franken, you should make sure to get a CLEAN model with the VR3186 movement, both for correct time setting direction of your model, and for ease of dial installation.

Red line indicates stem location, white arrows point to dial feet holes
3rkxMp.jpg


3rkb1b.jpg


3rkVD5.jpg

After few months I'm finally considering in starting my build. Basically the final model would be a black GMT 116710LN but with a jubilee bracelet, so I was wondering if this base model would be a good base (since it's already coming with jubilee so I don't need to get an extra one) to install my gen 116710LN parts (dial, bezel and hands). Based on your reply above the important thing is that I choose a base model with VR3186, correct?

Base watch I'm considering: https://ctime.io/product/gmt-master...tory-best-edition-on-jubilee-bracelet-vr3186/

Thanks
 

KJ2020

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After few months I'm finally considering in starting my build. Basically the final model would be a black GMT 116710LN but with a jubilee bracelet, so I was wondering if this base model would be a good base (since it's already coming with jubilee so I don't need to get an extra one) to install my gen 116710LN parts (dial, bezel and hands). Based on your reply above the important thing is that I choose a base model with VR3186, correct?

Base watch I'm considering: https://ctime.io/product/gmt-master...tory-best-edition-on-jubilee-bracelet-vr3186/

Thanks
Yes that would be a good choice. Keep in mind the CLEAN bezel assembly is not the best and that a complete bezel assembly includes the crystal retaining ring. So while you may be able to use the really inferior CLEAN retaining ring, the optimal approach would be to swap that part out for a gen as well. While you're at it a gen crystal is a staple of most Franken builds.
 
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SubNot

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Yes that would be a good choice. Keep in mind the CLEAN bezel assembly is not the best and that a complete bezel assembly includes the crystal retaining ring. So while you may be able to use the really inferior CLEAN retaining ring, the optimal approach would be to swap that part out for a gen as well. While you're at it a gen crystal is a staple of most Franken builds.
Wonderful, thank you. I’ll definitely consider that piece then as the good old 116710LN on jubilee is always been a project I had in mind!

Yes, I’ve got full gen bezel assembly with metal rings, white plastic ring etc.. and definitely also gen crystal is on the list 😃
 
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KJ2020

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Wonderful, thank you. I’ll definitely consider that piece then as the good old 116710LN on jubilee is always been a project I had in mind!

Yes, I’ve got full gen bezel assembly with metal rings, white plastic ring etc.. and definitely also gen crystal is on the list 😃
I've have several rep 116710LNs but I can't seem to keep one stock. Not surprising since most of my reps change their looks a few times before they settle down. :cool:

17052835798360.jpg


16999813172600.jpg


16107313657091.jpg


16474598717580.jpg
 

SubNot

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I've have several rep 116710LNs but I can't seem to keep one stock. Not surprising since most of my reps change their looks a few times before they settle down. :cool:

17052835798360.jpg


16999813172600.jpg


16107313657091.jpg


16474598717580.jpg
Wow very nice, especially that last one on the jubilee, basically that’s the look I’m after 🤩
 
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