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New Clean GMT - First Impressions

trailboss99

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This watch is a pre-production sample so this by necessity is a first impressions rather than a full review and besides, there are people far more qualified to pick out the tiny details than I. Yo have all seen pics of this watch, it's the one that was used for the teardown photos by C-Time and has since been reassembled and shipped off for me to take a look at.



Overall the finish is very nice indeed, the polishing and brushing is pretty much perfect, I saw no marks on the watch at all with just a couple of light buff marks on the clasp which polished off with a cape cod in seconds. The shine on the ceramic bezel has to be seen to be believed, if you could get that finish on vehicle paintwork you'd be very happy indeed. Bezel numerals are good, about as close to real platinum as I've seen. All bezel numerals are correctly filled (any spots in the pics are dirt, not bad paint) and the blue/black demarcation is crisp and where it should be. There is zero side to side play in the bezel and the action is positive if still slightly "soft" but it's nothing I'd complain about myself, it feels solid and it works. The coronet on the crystal is very difficult to see (as it should be) and properly formed, you need to catch the light just right to see it.




The bracelet is nice, it had no tight/sticky links and flowed like water as a jubilee should, the clasp works well with a positive, smooth action. The markings are crisp and look good to me but I'll let the experts vouch for the accuracy and placement. The link screws were all tight but not over tightened and all had threads in good order with all of them unscrewing without any issues.






The hands are nicely finished with good crisp edges and well polished. there was one tiny scratch on the minute hand but remember, this watch has been stripped for photography. The lume on the hands is also well applied and even. I won't speak about the dial as this is being changed on the production watches as Clean are not happy with the first batch that were produced and won't be using them. Someone such as @occb2 will have to point out why as it looks fine to me, it must be a text placement or font issue as everything is crisp and clean. Date wheel is good, I haven't taken a full set of date pics but if people really want me to I suppose I can, it's just a pain.





The watch is keeping good time having lost maybe 10 seconds over the first week, when it's settled in (another couple of weeks of run time) I'll do a time graph check and regulation but it's currently well within COSC. And yeah, I'm lazy and haven't set the GMT yet, I'll do so and let you know but I'm sure all will be good.

To sum up, Clean have done very nicely indeed with this watch, it's damn nice! Really, things are so good now any complaints are just nitpicking; if you are that fussy, go buy the gen (in about a year and a half if you are "permitted" a place on the waiting list). Thank you to @CTime for supplying the review sample and to Clean Factory for allowing them to do so before the official release.
 
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Nur-Uhr

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A great first impression of a nice watch. These CF are really worth their price.

What happened to the dial?
It looks like it is off centered ? When you take a look to the indices, you can see the half above (at 12) you can see the indices and the lower half (at 6) there are the indices already covered by the Rheaut?
Easy fix I would propose? Only centering the dial ?
 
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trailboss99

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A great first impression of a nice watch. These CF are really worth their price.

What happened to the dial?
It looks like it is off centered ? When you take a look to the indices, you can see the half above (at 12) you can see the indices and the lower half (at 6) there are the indices already covered by the Rheaut?
Easy fix I would propose? Only centering the dial ?
That, no doubt, is the aforementioned dial issue and the reason new dials are being made prior to release.
 
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JuanSB

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Great post!
Thank you very much.

Maybe you could record a short video to demonstrate the bezel action?
It would be very helpful
 
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trailboss99

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Great post!
Thank you very much.

Maybe you could record a short video to demonstrate the bezel action?
It would be very helpful
It's a bezel, it rotates, it has detents where and as it should. I'm not sure what a video would show as it's the 'feel" of the clicks that has the purists aflutter. I have no intention of feeding that nonsense, as long as it functions as it should who cares what it feels like, it's a rep that costs around 1/20th or less of the price of the real deal and people get worried about a bezel click that doesn't feel quite the same as a gen? 99% of them have never felt a gen bezel click anyway.
 

YellowFin

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Looking good! Might finally take the Batman leap with the new DD3285 version.
 

Tompa

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Thanks for the great post. I have the last clean Batman with 3186 clone in and i like it verry mutch. Realy nice quality watch from clean. And this is even better. Amazing. What do you think of the crystal? And the cyklop? Its usual clean crystal? Or you think its better?
 

KJ2020

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@trailboss99 Thanks for the review.

I wonder if the dial being slightly uncentered is a movement to case fit issue rather than a dial to movement issue.

I was very surprised to read that CLEAN had to enlarge the case inner diameter to fit the DD3285, since all online references indicate the 3186 and 3285 movements are the same outer diameter.

3n7mCj.jpg




So did Dandong make the DD3285 slightly larger than gen?

Did CLEAN make the case inner diameter slightly larger than necessary thus allowing some slight extra roominess?

I run into movement fit issues regularly. The 3285 is back to using movement tabs and screws unlike the 3135/3186 so it's possible some tab manipulation or replacement could fix your issue. If not, sometimes a single short section of nylon (piece of a crystal gasket. fishline. etc) can be wedged in between the movement and the case on the offending side and force the movement and dial to center. When repositioned and with tab screws re-tightened, a movement (and its wedge) can be made immobile.

Dial centering is something I always check for before closing up a caseback. Assuming @CTime's watchmaker did the same, then some shifting may have occurred in shipping which could be an easy fix.
 

Procurator

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Thanks for the impressions boss.

Im missing my Pepsi, so hopefully the fit & finish will be identical on that one as well. Including the bezel colours and transitions. BLNR is easier to produce, but the last CF pepsi was very very good, which only feeds my frenzy of expectations 😵‍💫😂
 

brane

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dail looks nicer than the teaser pics, looked so rushed / sloppy, this is much better. thank you.
 

CTime

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@trailboss99 Thanks for the review.

I wonder if the dial being slightly uncentered is a movement to case fit issue rather than a dial to movement issue.

Dial centering is something I always check for before closing up a caseback. Assuming @CTime's watchmaker did the same, then some shifting may have occurred in shipping which could be an easy fix.
As trailboss mentioned, clean found out this problem and remade them. It's not the position problem, we found it not centered when we did QC. Here is the new sample watch, we will ship a new dial and to trailboss again to make it perfect then.

 
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KJ2020

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As trailboss mentioned, clean found out this problem and remade them. It's not the position problem, we found it not centered when we did QC. Here is the new sample watch, we will ship a new dial and to trailboss again to make it perfect then.
Thanks for the update. That's a nice looking sample. Insert is not centered, a common CLEAN issue. Looking forward to taking the bezel apart to see if there is any improvement there.
 
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CTime

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Thanks for the update. That's a nice looking sample. Insert is not centered, a common CLEAN issue. Looking forward to taking the bezel apart to see if there is any improvement there.
Haha it's because the bezel is not in the right position, the clicker inside is not forcing the bezel to stay very still, so it's movable. As long as it's not seating at the wrong place then I think it's acceptable. (do I make sense
 

KJ2020

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Haha it's because the bezel is not in the right position, the clicker inside is not forcing the bezel to stay very still, so it's movable. As long as it's not seating at the wrong place then I think it's acceptable. (do I make sense
Understood bro, yes it makes sense. This is such a great rep, it's a real shame CLEAN doesn't spend more effort on providing a better bezel functionality.

The bezel parts are so cheap and poorly fitting that they've had to use huge amounts of grease to make the bezels even turn. When you take one apart and clean off the grease they usually won't rotate at all. So I've had to sand down (alter the shape or size) of parts and/or use gen or aftermarket parts plus add some grease back. It's really unacceptable, I have 4-6 year old BP, Noob, GMF, ARF, VRF GMTs that are way better.

These are CLEAN bezel parts
36eEyS.jpg


36e7HW.jpg


36euEP.jpg


The top image in the pic below is how the bezel tension ring is supposed to fit outside of the crystal retaining ring. The bottom half shows how it comes from CLEAN. The inside diameter is too small for a proper fit.
jPfBTS.jpg


jPfpUL.jpg


Have you seen this bezel? What an awesome design. No rotational play at all and no grease. Maybe you could suggest it to CLEAN.

39JEs2.jpg


A different type of rep GMT bezel - The Rollerball!

BTW you have taken the role of TD to astonishing heights. Congrats on top tier services and responsiveness to our forum. Thank you so much!
 
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CTime

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Understood bro, yes it makes sense. This is such a great rep, it's a real shame CLEAN doesn't spend more effort on providing a better bezel functionality.

The bezel parts are so cheap and poorly fitting that they've had to use huge amounts of grease to make the bezels even turn. When you take one apart and clean off the grease they usually won't rotate at all. So I've had to sand down (alter the shape or size) of parts and/or use gen or aftermarket parts plus add some grease back. It's really unacceptable, I have 4-6 year old BP, Noob, GMF, ARF, VRF GMTs that are way better.

BTW you have taken the role of TD to astonishing heights. Congrats on top tier services and responsiveness to our forum. Thank you so much!
Thank you hahah I will inform them when I meet them next time. I will kick the sh** out of them and force them to update it, wish me luck🤞🤞