New AP 26240 with 4401 Super Clone movement is coming

[sfbatman787]

Anyone has a pic of what the bezel looks like on the backside? Is it similar to 26331 bezel?

 

[Sheriff1935]

Sorry for my ignorance then. it is always good to admit mistake and learn new stuffs .Thanks

Guys I have several gen AP ROs and ROOs and I can say unequivocally that the newer models have rose gold rotors. I’m literally looking at them as we speak

 

[Rangerfan]

Is it a lubrication issue perhaps? or is it just not able to spin as freely as other movements? Honestly did not notice till it was mentioned here

I am wondering the same thing. Maybe the stock rotor isn’t as efficient as it could be, but old the bigger problem be a dry movement. I wonder if watches where the movements are serviced have the same issue. Also, is the stock rotor on ball bearings? Is there a problem with how freely it spins? Maybe it is more of a QC issue than it is a design issue.

TBH, I would prefer a heavier rotor, but unless I take a watch on vacation, I either wear my autos or keep them in a watch-winder, and I am getting my 26240 movement cleaned and lubricated before I get it, so I am hoping the power reserve is good enough after that so that I don’t need to wind the watch a lot. I mean my Blancpain x Swatch definitely does not have a gold (or even A Tungsten carbide) rotor, and it keeps my watch running.

BTW, The Watch Mansion told me they can/will only CNC a 22k rotor. They do not do plated Tungsten.

 

[legend]

I am wondering the same thing. Maybe the stock rotor isn’t as efficient as it could be, but old the bigger problem be a dry movement. I wonder if watches where the movements are serviced have the same issue. Also, is the stock rotor on ball bearings? Is there a problem with how freely it spins? Maybe it is more of a QC issue than it is a design issue.

TBH, I would prefer a heavier rotor, but unless I take a watch on vacation, I either wear my autos or keep them in a watch-winder, and I am getting my 26240 movement cleaned and lubricated before I get it, so I am hoping the power reserve is good enough after that so that I don’t need to wind the watch a lot. I mean my Blancpain x Swatch definitely does not have a gold (or even A Tungsten carbide) rotor, and it keeps my watch running.

BTW, The Watch Mansion told me they can/will only CNC a 22k rotor. They do not do plated Tungsten.

In short Tungsten isn’t an ideal material to be plated. There are some posts about this which I found to be useful.

 

[domiffm]

Guys I have several gen AP ROs and ROOs and I can say unequivocally that the newer models have rose gold rotors. I’m literally looking at them as we speak

Pics?

 

[Rangerfan]

In short Tungsten isn’t an ideal material to be plated. There are some posts about this which I found to be useful.

Thanks very much. No doubt there are issues with plating tungsten, but I think it may depend on how the plating is done or what alloy is used (e.g., I have read PVD works well, and I think tungsten carbide is used pretty often). Gold plated tungsten wedding rings are very common and are sold as durable and inexpensive alternatives to solid gold, and a number of watch companies use plated tungsten rotors (presumably to save cost). Lange uses a gold plated rotor on some models , as do, I believe, Bulgari and JLC. The Horage K2 movement has a gold plated Tungsten carbide rotor, and they did a long promotion piece on why they use tungsten for their micro rotor with a solid platinum option, making it clear they went with gold plated tungsten as their standard offering because its mass makes it a good choice and because of the cost saving over platinum or gold. I also have seen some rotors with just tungsten rims to add mass.

If it is really true that the stock rotor in this watch can’t actually power the watch — and I am not completely convinced that the power issue is not as much a QC problem with the movements as it is a rotor material problem (having serviced these movements, you probably have a pretty well-informed view) — hopefully there is a solution that looks good enough and winds the watch, somewhere short of having to buy a 22k rotor that costs 30% more than the watch.

link to Horage piece on Rotor Materials

 

[memox]

Have worn my 26240 since last Friday, watch runs fine without having to manually wind it.

 

[munichman]

I also have seen some rotors with just tungsten rims to add mass.

Me too, but I just cannot remember which brand that was.
And our Chinese friends don´t seem to have any problems with plating Tungsten:
http://www.tungsten-alloy.com/index.htm

 

[Rangerfan]

Have worn my 26240 since last Friday, watch runs fine without having to manually wind it.

Actually good to hear.

 

[CrazyOCD.RepWearer]

Just remember that other mechanisms play into the power reserve too. It could also be a dry mainspring / mainspring slippage, or bad reversing wheels. On my SS Blue, the rotor spins with rotation of the watch. Would a slightly heavier rotor benefit that? Yes, but it certainly doesn't feel like the rotor is being prevented from spinning by the gear train. Additionally, it doesn't sound like there is any friction where the rotor is rubbing or scraping against anything else.

For those who have power reserve issues, see if you can put it on a watch timer, and check to see if there are other indications of lube issues with the movement. Thus far I've only seen some QC pix posted here, where some folks have come across a few where the movement seemed sub-optimal. Clearly a service would greatly benefit those movements - and get to the bottom of any power reserve issue.

 

[CrazyOCD.RepWearer]

Anyone has a pic of what the bezel looks like on the backside? Is it similar to 26331 bezel?

Sorry, I should have taken pix. What I saw, when I removed my caseback and bezel, is that there is the bezel itself, the rubber gasket which follows the characteristic octagonal shape. Then, moving inwards, the crystal gasket and crystal. On the other side - facing the dial, there is the another rubber ring which is responsible for waterproofing, and then a floating polished rehaut which sits nearest center. That polished rehaut has a cut out, which is for the crown stem.

Additionally, the slotted hex bezel bolt floats around - as in, they do not have any individual rubber ring and no slotted nut which holds it in place within the case body - like Offshore Chronos and RO 15400 have. The bezel bolt relies upon the caseback screw nuts to hold the bezel and caseback in place.

Thankfully, these bolts appear to be strong, where they don't strip as easily as some early AP ROO chronos did. Nevertheless I would be careful with tightening, and to do so slowly and in the star pattern as you would for a car's wheels. Secure bolts, then tighten, then tighten a bit more. I'm sure you're aware, but just putting this out there for anyone else who endeavor to open these up (or tighten them when they first receive them from dealers).

Hopefully this helps. We need a competent member to take pictures of a breakdown and provide their observations of the movement when they take apart and service the movement.

 

[Rangerfan]

Just remember that other mechanisms play into the power reserve too. It could also be a dry mainspring / mainspring slippage, or bad reversing wheels. On my SS Blue, the rotor spins with rotation of the watch. Would a slightly heavier rotor benefit that? Yes, but it certainly doesn't feel like the rotor is being prevented from spinning by the gear train. Additionally, it doesn't sound like there is any friction where the rotor is rubbing or scraping against anything else.

For those who have power reserve issues, see if you can put it on a watch timer, and check to see if there are other indications of lube issues with the movement. Thus far I've only seen some QC pix posted here, where some folks have come across a few where the movement seemed sub-optimal. Clearly a service would greatly benefit those movements - and get to the bottom of any power reserve issue.

makes sense

 

[Db9s]

Just remember that other mechanisms play into the power reserve too. It could also be a dry mainspring / mainspring slippage, or bad reversing wheels. On my SS Blue, the rotor spins with rotation of the watch. Would a slightly heavier rotor benefit that? Yes, but it certainly doesn't feel like the rotor is being prevented from spinning by the gear train. Additionally, it doesn't sound like there is any friction where the rotor is rubbing or scraping against anything else.

For those who have power reserve issues, see if you can put it on a watch timer, and check to see if there are other indications of lube issues with the movement. Thus far I've only seen some QC pix posted here, where some folks have come across a few where the movement seemed sub-optimal. Clearly a service would greatly benefit those movements - and get to the bottom of any power reserve issue.

Is there any noise ? This AP has the same noise issue as the 116 Daytonas. But the 126 Daytonas are almost silent even with an open case back.

For me noise indicates friction. I don’t know if the rotor noise is normal for the AP when the Daytona is now silent from the factory.

 

[CrazyOCD.RepWearer]

Is there any noise ? This AP has the same noise issue as the 116 Daytonas. But the 126 Daytonas are almost silent even with an open case back.

For me noise indicates friction. I don’t know if the rotor noise is normal for the AP when the Daytona is now silent from the factory.

That's a good point. IMO the rotor doesn't present with that much more noise than a typical rep. I don't think it's noisy. It isn't silent though. The winding is very low noise as well - far better than most ETA 28xx movements. Again, could be dry-ish bearings. I haven't had enough time to add a bit of moebius yet, and my sample size is only 1 so far.

My attempts at getting another has failed thus far.

 

[elusive1]

I just received mine. How the hell did you size the bracelet? The pins are stuck in there impossibly tight. They won’t budge at all, even with a hair dryer to heat it up. I’m going insane.

 

[CrazyOCD.RepWearer]

I just received mine. How the hell did you size the bracelet? The pins are stuck in there impossibly tight. They won’t budge at all, even with a hair dryer to heat it up. I’m going insane.

Assuming it's the SS bracelet, you unscrew the screw, then I used my Bergeon 6767 pin end to push the pin out the end of the unscrewed side. Should be 0.8mm ? To reinstall, I put the pin back in, in the correct orientation, then used the 6767 pin end to push the pin all the way down into the hole, then screwed the screw back on.

If you use anything else, just make sure it'll be around 0.8mm in diameter, and the metal is strong / won't easily bend.

(Also congrats! One more in the 26240 posse!)

 

[elusive1]

Assuming it's the SS bracelet, you unscrew the screw, then I used my Bergeon 6767 pin end to push the pin out the end of the unscrewed side. Should be 0.8mm ? To reinstall, I put the pin back in, in the correct orientation, then used the 6767 pin end to push the pin all the way down into the hole, then screwed the screw back on.

If you use anything else, just make sure it'll be around 0.8mm in diameter, and the metal is strong / won't easily bend.

The pins are completely stuck and won’t budge. Even after heating the bracelet with a blow dryer. Some of the screws are stuck too, nearly stripped one.

 

[Db9s]

The pins are completely stuck and won’t budge. Even after heating the bracelet with a blow dryer. Some of the screws are stuck too, nearly stripped one.

You need a bigger screw driver head. That prevents stripping. Good screwdrivers are very hard to find.

If someone used Loctite for the screw you need to heat it up. But no factory has ever used loctite.

Use a wood or plastic hammer and a pin to get the pin out. It will come out.

 

[elusive1]

Assuming it's the SS bracelet, you unscrew the screw, then I used my Bergeon 6767 pin end to push the pin out the end of the unscrewed side. Should be 0.8mm ? To reinstall, I put the pin back in, in the correct orientation, then used the 6767 pin end to push the pin all the way down into the hole, then screwed the screw back on.

If you use anything else, just make sure it'll be around 0.8mm in diameter, and the metal is strong / won't easily bend.

(Also congrats! One more in the 26240 posse!)

So the issue basically was, one half of the bracelet had the pins completely stuck in place, but the other side of the bracelet opposite of the clasp, they slid out easily. I ended up just taking links off there, then reversing the clasp and reinstalled the bracelet. What a nightmare!

Apart from that it’s a beautiful watch and I’m really happy with it!! I hope that everyone who wants one, gets theirs soon, and has an easier time resizing the bracelet than I did.

 

[elusive1]

You need a bigger screw driver head. That prevents stripping. Good screwdrivers are very hard to find.

If someone used Loctite for the screw you need to heat it up. But no factory has ever used loctite.

Use a wood or plastic hammer and a pin to get the pin out. It will come out.

I need to get a set of screw drivers that have the longer heads for sure. Mine basically only cover half of the screw slot. Would welcome any links if you have them! I have the Bergeron drivers but the blades are very narrow and not wide like the AP screw slots.