Just replying a final time so people know what to look out for when purchasing this watch. I had the exact same issues as keisuke_z regarding water getting into the watch, with very minor splashes. I ended up being able to unscrew the caseback and gave it a clean around the threads, put silicon grease on the gasket then closed it. It's completely fine under water now. Also agreed, the outer AR does scratch very easily. Overall this is my fav rep though, highly recommended
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IW327010 MARK XVIII V7 maker VS Gen
- Thread starter Repworld
- Start date
- 13/2/18
- 221
- 168
- 43
I've had mine for about 8 months now and it is genuinely fantastic. I think the only issue is of course the outer AR scratching easily. Does someone smarter than me know where i can get a GEN Dial and Crystal at all? Anyone on this forum can source such things?
Thanks
Thanks
Apologies - I completely missed your reply! Looks like you were able to source a Jaxa style caseback opener and address your issues. That’s awesome.
As an update for mine:
- I couldn’t get past the recurring appearance of metal flecks so I ended up getting a gen SW200 movement
- being my first movement swap with a sellita, I had to swap the datewheel over. That proved to be a disaster.
- after finally casing everything back up, the movement won’t run
I’m pretty sure I know what the problem is having recently done an ETA 2824 swap and learning the proper steps to remove a date wheel. But I just haven’t had the time to reopen my LPP and redo everything so, in storage it continues to rest.
Prior to that I also took diemakwr stones to the endlinks trying to make them more flush. Needless to say, I was not successful and will eventually be on the hunt for a new bracelet
merowinger
I'm Pretty Popular
This is an older thread, but I had a direct comparison between the V7F (left) and the MKS version. The blue is so much better, the case is more beautifully finished. The V7F is definitely NWBIG.
In the picture, the MKS has a 2xAR crystal (prof), the V7F has the normal V7F crystal, which has a blue tint, just like the gen.
Anyway, I'm going to swap them over.
In the picture, the MKS has a 2xAR crystal (prof), the V7F has the normal V7F crystal, which has a blue tint, just like the gen.
Anyway, I'm going to swap them over.
I have a normal VF7 Mark VIII (e.g. not little prince) and noticed under high magnification that the limes markers (4 hour markers and triangle at noon) appear to be glued on and not painted like the rest of the numbers and markers on the dial. Is this the same with both the watches in the photo above? I believe those lumed markers are painted on in gen. Possibly the only difference between rep and gen outside the movement.
merowinger
I'm Pretty Popular
The lumed hour markers (at 12, 3, 6, 9) and the triangle are applied, just as per gen.
see the gen here:
see the gen here:
Oh thank you. I thought they were painted on the gen. Would you happen to know if they are applied on the Mark XX as well?
Mark XX looks to be painted markers.
Mark XVIII has applied markers on the cardinal points.
Mark XVIII heritage has painted markers.
Mark XVIII has applied markers on the cardinal points.
Mark XVIII heritage has painted markers.
- 5/4/22
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Are you sure about using a SW-200? It should be a SW-300 to fit and if I remember correctly with Handheight = H2 (correct me if I'm wrong here)Apologies - I completely missed your reply! Looks like you were able to source a Jaxa style caseback opener and address your issues. That’s awesome.
As an update for mine:
- I couldn’t get past the recurring appearance of metal flecks so I ended up getting a gen SW200 movement
- being my first movement swap with a sellita, I had to swap the datewheel over. That proved to be a disaster.
- after finally casing everything back up, the movement won’t run
I’m pretty sure I know what the problem is having recently done an ETA 2824 swap and learning the proper steps to remove a date wheel. But I just haven’t had the time to reopen my LPP and redo everything so, in storage it continues to rest.
Prior to that I also took diemakwr stones to the endlinks trying to make them more flush. Needless to say, I was not successful and will eventually be on the hunt for a new bracelet
I had / have the same issue with the water resistance, I tried to sand down the inner case and the inner back of the caseback and that helped a bit, also applied a thicker gasket. Are you sure the problem is only caused by not so well machined threads / dirty threads?
Wish you luck getting your watch running.
merowinger
I'm Pretty Popular
For the sake of completeness: here is the V7F with prof crystal 2xAR
Prof Crystals are amazing. The watch looks like it has no crystal.For the sake of completeness: here is the V7F with prof crystal 2xAR
looks really awesomeFor the sake of completeness: here is the V7F with prof crystal 2xAR
I ordered a Mark XVIII set for ali and put today everything together. Seller was BosshuA007. As movement, I use a Seagull ST1812. I am pretty excited. The only issue you can see at the 9 o'clock point. It is not exact glued.
Does anyone know what factory this is?
Does anyone know what factory this is?
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Sellita 200? 300? or Eta 2892? Are the movements precise and clean?
Do you recomend buy with swiss movement or buy a clone and then swap for a swiss movement?
I ordered one with the ETA 2892 and wanted to see the movement in the QC pictures before shipping. This was mainly due to a post I read in r****t where someone ordered the ETA version and received the A2892 version instead.
The factory put a sticker on the back of the case and told the TD not to open it. Even after some discussion and full payment up front, the TD refused to open the case back and show me the movement. I finally gave up and we changed my order. I was not willing to pay for an ETA without the ability to inspect before shipping.
Funny thing is, my replacement order is a Mark XX with A2892 and it had no sticker on the case back!
If the movement breaks one day, I will ask a watchsmith to install a SW300 or an ETA 2892-A2.
The factory put a sticker on the back of the case and told the TD not to open it. Even after some discussion and full payment up front, the TD refused to open the case back and show me the movement. I finally gave up and we changed my order. I was not willing to pay for an ETA without the ability to inspect before shipping.
Funny thing is, my replacement order is a Mark XX with A2892 and it had no sticker on the case back!
If the movement breaks one day, I will ask a watchsmith to install a SW300 or an ETA 2892-A2.
I have sanded the bezel slightly so that it is no longer shiny and matt like the gen. This goes much better with the black dial and the matt hands.
Interesting...Someone has bought the watch rep with gen eta and has find out it in qc pictures?
No, found out when opened after delivery. That's what I wanted to avoid.
Anyhow, I think it's the better decision to order the asian version and change once it's broken.
Anyhow, I think it's the better decision to order the asian version and change once it's broken.
Hello to everyone, I've read the thread and I have a doubt. I hope someone can resolve it.
I've asked some TD about what swiss movement uses the watch.
Some TD responsed that it uses swiss ETA 2892; and others that watch uses Sellita 200.
I don't understant it because eta 2892 is equivalent to sellita 300 (same size); and sellita 200 is larger than the other both.
So, anyone knows if the rep watch can be bought with swiss eta 2892, or sellita 300 or sellita 200?? TD don't answer clearly to me.
To finish, do you consider better to buy with clon A2892 and the swap the movement to install a swiss movement; or directly buy the watch with swiss movement?
Thanks to everyone
I've asked some TD about what swiss movement uses the watch.
Some TD responsed that it uses swiss ETA 2892; and others that watch uses Sellita 200.
I don't understant it because eta 2892 is equivalent to sellita 300 (same size); and sellita 200 is larger than the other both.
So, anyone knows if the rep watch can be bought with swiss eta 2892, or sellita 300 or sellita 200?? TD don't answer clearly to me.
To finish, do you consider better to buy with clon A2892 and the swap the movement to install a swiss movement; or directly buy the watch with swiss movement?
Thanks to everyone