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If you want someone done right... (Engraving content)

matzemedia

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As far as I understand the older cases used a stamp for the inner text. So I did some research for stamps and ordered a custom logo stamp. The one I've got is especially used for lightweight metals like aluminium, but I like to give it a trie.
My current experience is not particularly satisfying.
1. the impact on the stamp must be so strong that I suspect the cases is warped.
2. the result got worse with the attempt I made. The stamp seems to be wearing away.
3. if the stamp is not held straight enough, the impression is uneven. There is no second attempt.
 

dpd3672

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As far as I understand the older cases used a stamp for the inner text. So I did some research for stamps and ordered a custom logo stamp. The one I've got is especially used for lightweight metals like aluminium, but I like to give it a trie.
My current experience is not particularly satisfying.
1. the impact on the stamp must be so strong that I suspect the cases is warped.
2. the result got worse with the attempt I made. The stamp seems to be wearing away.
3. if the stamp is not held straight enough, the impression is uneven. There is no second attempt.
I thought it looked like it wasn't engraved, a stamp makes sense.

Probably not done by hand, maybe by a press, which would prevent it from being unevenly applied. I do (or used to do) gunsmithing, and firearms have similar looking stamped receivers from that era. It's hard to describe, but the characters look "pressed" rather than "cut":

 

brekker0

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As far as I understand the older cases used a stamp for the inner text. So I did some research for stamps and ordered a custom logo stamp. The one I've got is especially used for lightweight metals like aluminium, but I like to give it a trie.
My current experience is not particularly satisfying.
1. the impact on the stamp must be so strong that I suspect the cases is warped.
2. the result got worse with the attempt I made. The stamp seems to be wearing away.
3. if the stamp is not held straight enough, the impression is uneven. There is no second attempt.
Same idea not long ago, but still waiting for my punch... what about a hydraulic press (would be my next attempt)?
 
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drvintage

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As far as I understand the older cases used a stamp for the inner text. So I did some research for stamps and ordered a custom logo stamp. The one I've got is especially used for lightweight metals like aluminium, but I like to give it a trie.
My current experience is not particularly satisfying.
1. the impact on the stamp must be so strong that I suspect the cases is warped.
2. the result got worse with the attempt I made. The stamp seems to be wearing away.
3. if the stamp is not held straight enough, the impression is uneven. There is no second attempt.
Oh wow - nice idea! I think you have to do this stamp with an press or with some holder tool, to get the stamp straight enough to the surface
 
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brekker0

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I thought it looked like it wasn't engraved, a stamp makes sense.

Probably not done by hand, maybe by a press, which would prevent it from being unevenly applied. I do (or used to do) gunsmithing, and firearms have similar looking stamped receivers from that era. It's hard to describe, but the characters look "pressed" rather than "cut":

on firearms they usually did rollmarks, as I remember...
 

Singapore9

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Yes, use a press and have it made in a steel harder than 316L stainless that the case is in! Looks good though!
 

drvintage

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You have to heat the stamp till 1000 degrees or so and drop it in the oil.. then it should be hard enough
 
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matzemedia

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Same idea not long ago, but still waiting for my punch.
I'm looking forward to hearing about your experience.

You have to heat the stamp till 1000 degrees or so and drop it in the oil.. then it should be hard enough
I think it is hardened already you can see the colors of heat at the side of the stamp.

Yes, use a press

I tried using a vice as press. But the result was worst. My vice was not strong enough.




Today I just tried one caseback I didn't need anymore. The result was not very good. I tried a few times more but that is the best I can realize with a big hammer.


 
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brekker0

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I think, it went not that bad.... but I think our approach is too ambitious! The punch-stamp routine is definitely the right one. But what, if the original stamp consists of 3 groups: ...the "MONTRES ROLEX S.A.", the "Geneva/Switzerland/Patented" & "the STAINLESS STEEL"?!
 
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dpd3672

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I think, it went not that bad.... but I think our approach is too ambitious! The punch-stamp routine is definitely the right one. But what, if the original stamp consists of 3 groups: ...the "MONTRES ROLEX S.A.", the "Geneva/Switzerland/Patented" & "the STAINLESS STEEL"?!
This makes sense. Three separate stamps would mean less surface area to absorb the blow, so a deeper, clearer imprint.
 

matzemedia

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But what, if the original stamp consists of 3 groups: ...the "MONTRES ROLEX S.A.", the "Geneva/Switzerland/Patented" & "the STAINLESS STEEL"?!
You could be right. But than it is impossible to place it into center without any device / guide.
By the way: if you once do your first try - use ear protection! It is so loud!
 
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brekker0

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You could be right. But than it is impossible to place it into center without any device / guide.
By the way: if you once do your first try - use ear protection! It is so loud!
😂😂😂 …hope my hydraulic-press stays silent😂😂😂 BTW: ordered meanwhile 3 new punch stamps… 🤘
 
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WatchN3RD

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Hi everyone, i’m so excited right now. I just tried saltwater etching with free film paper as a mask, and the result is amazing!


Wow!!!
1) What brand paper and what printer did you use?
2) i assume you used a thick paper setting to get a thick toner layer, correct?
3) what was your heat method?
4) did you use any glue?

Sorry for all the questions, but many people have specific techniques that work for them and might not work for others.
Seems like you got an excellent result from the get go, so I like to make mental notes when people get a good result.

You're not under investigation, but I just had to ask. Excellent outcome there!
 

Dumbellbee

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Wow!!!
1) What brand paper and what printer did you use?
2) i assume you used a thick paper setting to get a thick toner layer, correct?
3) what was your heat method?
4) did you use any glue?

Sorry for all the questions, but many people have specific techniques that work for them and might not work for others.
Seems like you got an excellent result from the get go, so I like to make mental notes when people get a good result.

You're not under investigation, but I just had to ask. Excellent outcome there!
No problem! I’m happy to share my experience.

1. I used free film decal paper, a Chinese version of Su*nyscopa, because I didn’t want to pay $50 for shipping..

2. I’m not sure about that since I had it printed at a local print shop.

3. Since I don’t use the oven (for hygiene and safety reasons), I used a high-model saucepan on a stove. I suspended the midcase on a spoon so it wouldn’t touch the bottom of the pan directly and set the heat/flame to the lowest setting.

4. I didn’t use any glue at all.
 

dangerdan3

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You have to heat the stamp till 1000 degrees or so and drop it in the oil.. then it should be hard enough
An induction heater would be cheap enough and small enough to get good temperature on the head of a stamp. May be a good excuse to change the oil on the car too haha.
 
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brekker0

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I'm looking forward to hearing about your experience.


I think it is hardened already you can see the colors of heat at the side of the stamp.



I tried using a vice as press. But the result was worst. My vice was not strong enough.




Today I just tried one caseback I didn't need anymore. The result was not very good. I tried a few times more but that is the best I can realize with a big hammer.


Herr are my tryouts on the hydraulic press…
 

matzemedia

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That is a good result. Would you like to share some details about the press and the stamp?
On the caseback the stamp looks very big. Is it a very small caseback or the stamp too big?
 
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brekker0

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That is a good result. Would you like to share some details about the press and the stamp?
On the caseback the stamp looks very big. Is it a very small caseback or the stamp too big?
there's no real magic behind... it's a regular hydraulic press you use in a mechanic workshop for pressing bearings (costs around EUR 300)... BTW, my punch is too big (it was a regular 39/Sub-caseback), cause my source wasn't able to do a smaller one.... So I'm still searching for the right punch stamp in the correct size (would be nice, if you could PM me a link of your source)! The process itself is quite easy:

1.) only use a raw caseback with a flat back (if you use too much force, you still can mill away the appearing imprint on the outside)
2.) put it onto a clean flat & blank steel sheet for even force diversion
3.) fix the punch stamp right in the center of the hydraulic piston & start to pump

For the caseback in the picture, I used almost 1t of pressure. Unfortunately I ran out of cheap casebacks to proceed & figure out the minimum amount of force to reach the best results...