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Green Submariner 41 126610 LV review

m5smg2

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KJ2020

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I meant how much of the crown is covered by the guards. It appears on the genuine the guards extend halfway across the crown. On the Green they don't extend as far outwards, or so it appears in the pics I look at.

I think the gen CGs don't look significantly different from Green Factory. Hard to tell for certain when a slight viewing angle difference can be critical

ZqPb6X.jpg


ZqP02c.jpg
 

m5smg2

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Not bad at all!

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603d9151a0892c2b8bf09fc07d18012f.jpg
5579337f74161e31fffffc8124ba97d1.jpg

It’s close enough. Thanks for side by side comparo pics with your gen.

I think the crown to case has a tiny gap like a 5 digit Sub making the CG appear shorter. I wonder if the crown tube can be turned slightly do make the crown fit closer to the case?
 

Cowboy45

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It’s close enough. Thanks for side by side comparo pics with your gen.

I think the crown to case has a tiny gap like a 5 digit Sub making the CG appear shorter. I wonder if the crown tube can be turned slightly do make the crown fit closer to the case?
I think its really close, our photos have different backgrounds so it makes it a little more different then it is. That being said i think im going to order this one over the VSF.

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KJ2020

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It’s close enough. Thanks for side by side comparo pics with your gen.

I think the crown to case has a tiny gap like a 5 digit Sub making the CG appear shorter. I wonder if the crown tube can be turned slightly do make the crown fit closer to the case?

Tubes are usually (should be) glued in also so if you were able to tighten it down you would break the glue bond. Better to remove the tube completely, clean off all the glue residue and go from there. I use locktite 242 on tubes - it's medium strength so plenty strong but is removable if needed.

I've seen a member file and sand down the crown end of the tube enough to close that gap but either way you might have to shorten the stem too. This was done without removing the tube or the movement which I don't recommend but yeah.
 
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m5smg2

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Tubes are usually (should be) glued in also so if you were able to tighten it down you would break the glue bond. Better to remove the tube completely, clean off all the glue residue and go from there. I use locktite 242 on tubes - it's medium strength so plenty strong but is removable if needed.

I've seen a member file and sand down the crown end of the tube enough to close that gap but either way you might have to shorten the stem too. This was done without removing the tube or the movement which I don't recommend but yeah.

Thanks KJ. Not worth the trouble. In person it looks just fine to me :)
 

m5smg2

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m5smg2

I’m torn on this vs arf Kermit based on your reviews. Which feels/acts like the better product? The arf movement freaks me out. I’d rather have a Swiss eta in any watch than a clone movement. But arf usually makes things that feel solid.

Hi, movement aside, I’d answer your question with depending if you prefer a classic 5 digit Sub or fast forward to 2020 with the all new SUB 41.

The ARF Kermit is an amazing rep but needs a couple of easy tweaks like tightening the bezel. And it’s the only 5 digit in true 904L. For the SH 3135 I’ve had no issues on many I’ve owned, but I also don’t wear them often. My wife wears an ARF DJ 36 with the SH 3135 daily and she is not kind to her watch. Hers has been solid over a year now. If it fails I guess I’d swap it out to a VR. Here I’d want a 3135 clone for the correct time set direction.

This new Green maker is an amazing first effort all around. I’m very impressed. For movements, it’s hard not to get the VS 3235 clone with claimed 72 H power reserve. However, for long term reliability, I’d take an ETA clone here with same time set direction and date change about 5 to midnight. And I can easily swap it out with a Swiss ETA 2824 if I wanted. That’s just me.
 

stufuse

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[mention]m5smg2 [/mention] did you check the engravings etc? Did I miss it?


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