First rep build - 6200 or 6538

[itgoes211]

Glad you already have that other thread. There’s another started by Bart on RWG.

I understand, but in summary, it’s worth it to just bite the bullet. Warning: it’s a gateway paper. Once you try it, it’s a deep rabbit hole. Lol

I did the same thing regarding holding off on buying decal paper and also trying photo paper. But in the end it was worth it to me to buy decal paper. Thats also why I cut the decal paper into sections, which also helps avoid running paper through the printer multiple times, which I found degrades the decal paper and sometimes ends in smudges. Cutting the paper into sections helps save paper, but I still burn through a lot of decal paper (as seen in the photos). But I’m still on my first pack of 20 sheets of Amazon Kodiak (not Kodak). I also bought white decal paper which works well for certain situations, but bleeds more and takes time to dry.

I did the photo paper with some extra I had laying around before I bit the bullet on decal paper. It works well, and you can actually use it instead of a dial. I still have my first printed watch - a Vostok (from Goodwill) with a YachtMaster photo paper dial. Ya, total blasphemy. I love it anyway - just probably wouldn’t wear it outside the house.

I just bought some ModPodge to try burning a picture onto a dial decoupage-style just to see what happens. Wife makes fun of me now and calls me a”crafter” now after she explained what decoupage was. I also tried iron-on TShirt paper. Works well for a textured vintage look, especially vintage albinos.

...there’s no turning back

good luck and happy printing! I’m excited to see how it turns out when you’re ready to share.

 

[muggs]

This is an attempt with photo paper:

Looks much better than on the other papers, but still some pixelation.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Dan71]

@muggs
which dial plate do you use for apply this decal dial ?
And which case have you chose ? I read the old post but I can’t see the pic what do you mean with TC ? Do you mean maybe the “TS station 6542” ?
Tks


Edit : now I understand TC is for tiger concept. Why don’t use a TS 6542 ?

 

[itgoes211]

muggs : hey, that new print looks much better - congrats! And the file itself looks spot-on. Great job! How did you build the file for printing - photoshop of photo, vector file from scratch, or something else?

By the way, I jinxed myself with my previous posts... I’ve spent the past week+ trying to get two different printers to output clear prints - with no luck. Same issue that you had. I just can’t get the resolution right. Don’t know if it’s the printer settings, my files (some are as large/detailed as 3-5 megs, which should be insane resolution on a 28mm print), or what. I’m going crazy. So I know again the frustration you were felling. ... But it looks like you solved your printing issue, so that’s cool.

Good luck with with the project. I’m interested to see more as it progresses. Cheers

 

[muggs]

Dan71 - I plan to use the hont 6358 http://www.hontwatch.ru/rolsub184-vintage-sub-ref-6538-big-crown-james-bond-a2836-p-9285.html
Though I’m thinking I may switch to another TD as this is showing a 2813 movement rather than the eta 2836 that I want.

I haven’t got any dials yet. I’m planning to get some cheap ones from eBay or somewhere and sand off any details. I’ll then gold plate them.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[muggs]

Sorry for the double post. My phone is playing up.

itgoes211 - I’m using GIMP - it’s an open source photoshop type programme. I’ve used the Bart Cordell 6358 and explorer dial to make mine.

I’m sorry to hear your printing is not going well. That one I did has been the best so far. I tried to print multiple on one sheet of A5, but they keep coming out heavily pixelated. Do you put yours onto one sheet in word?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[itgoes211]

I haven’t tried printing from Word yet, but I might if you suggest it. Getting the dial sizes exact in Word and pdf was my barrier. I use Inkspace (Inkscape?), similar free open source, but vector based, and it’s super easy to resize directly to the mm. It’s closer to Illustrator. I also use Paint and Paint3D that come with Windows10 I believe. All three each have their own uses, but I typically print from Inkscape. I find that if I print directly from a file I created in inkspace, it’s resolution is poor, so I export the file in super high-rez to Paint, fiddle with the pixels and anything I want to fix, then save as .tif, .png, or .svg file. Then import those files back to inkspace and shrink the images down to the sizes I want. I’ll import several dials into an inkspace file and print multiple dials onto a 4”x5.5” or letter size paper. I’ve noticed that the fewer dials I print on a page, the crisper they are.

That hontwatch looks nice and the link sent me to the version with 2836 mvmt in the title. They might just have a wrong pic of a 2813?

 

[Dan71]

Dan71 - I plan to use the hont 6358 http://www.hontwatch.ru/rolsub184-vintage-sub-ref-6538-big-crown-james-bond-a2836-p-9285.html
Though I’m thinking I may switch to another TD as this is showing a 2813 movement rather than the eta 2836 that I want.

I haven’t got any dials yet. I’m planning to get some cheap ones from eBay or somewhere and sand off any details. I’ll then gold plate them.

Ok, is i nice case the only pity is the back that is not gen spec..
Maybe for my next project 2836/1 I will use a 6542 case for the slim profile .

If you have the 2813 you can switch to miyota 8215 or eta 2873 / 2879 That are all low beat...





Sent from the RWI App

 

[muggs]

itgoes211 - I used Inkscape. It’s worked well.

These are unvarnished and on transfer paper.

I think I will create a new dial and use these as practice for ageing and luming. I got a piece of brass sheet to stick them to.

Dan71 - I want to keep with ETA, I was planning to switch to the 2400 balance wheel etc to change it to 21600. I just need to find a watchmaker that can do it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[itgoes211]

muggs : Very nice prints, congrats! They look much crisper than the others, but I can’t zoom in enough. Did you resolve the pixelation issue? (Sorry for the pun). I’m glad Inkscape worked out for you. What printer do you have? And are you printing directly from Inkscape?

Hey, I researched GIMP (thanks for the tip), other programs, and different file types. Bottom line: Vector files are the way to go - they are lossless, and allow for rescaling of images without pixelation. Vector files (.svg, .ai, .eps) have best resolution for printing and minute details like we need, followed closely by .tiff and pdf, then PNG files. Turns out Gimp and photoshop are pixel/raster based while Inkscape and Illustrator are vector based. Pixel/raster uses square pixels while vectors use actual lines and vectors are crisper.

So my vector files are tack-sharp now, but it looks like my challenge now is finding the best settings on the Xerox (sucks) Laser with their limited drivers, or just go back to my canon inkjet, which is great, but just doesn’t allow for film-free transfers. I have a few other methods I’m working on as well. It’s funny that after all the time and money spent in printers, papers, tools, dial blanks, etc., I could’ve just bought gen or super-rep dials from someone. Lol. Back down the rabbit hole for me...

Also, if you still need dial blanks, the best deal on dial blanks ive been able to find is at ofrei.com / Otto Frei.

Cheers!

 

[Dan71]

itgoes211
Please, do you have a link of these dial on offrei ?


Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando RWI

 

[itgoes211]

itgoes211
Please, do you have a link of these dial on offrei ?


Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando RWI

Try: http://www.ofrei.com/page_130.html
there are different styles and sizes. They don’t always have everything in stock, and they are not pleasant or helpful via phone. But best deals I can find so far.
If anyone knows of better blank dials, please let me know.
cheers

 

[Dan71]

Itgoes211 so you bought these Orfei dials and than you delete the surface (delete the color dial and number /indices) and below there is a brass or do you apply over a gold leaf?

 

[itgoes211]

The 2824 date window dials come blank plain white, so I use as is. If I want a brass background, I acetone the white off.
Ofrei is usually out of plain white 2824/2836 no date window dial, so I go with the simplest one and acetone off the numbers and paint. Then either use the brass as is or paint it - typically a white background.

 

[Dan71]

Please can you show some of your dial ?

 

[muggs]

I think I sprayed too much varnish on the decal paper.
Quite a few have slipped.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[itgoes211]

You’re getting there! Don’t discard that sheet, it might be useful for some experimenting later. And a few of them look pretty cool almost vintage-spiderwebbed.
Looks like the ink wasn’t dry yet before the first spray either as some of the minute rails and broken/smudged, particularly if it was a thick layer of spray. It’s hard to wait, but typically an inkjet print - especially with full black faces - needs a day to dry enough that the first spray won’t smudge the ink.

And, ya, multiple thin layers is better than a thick layer, especially when the ink is not fully dry. Another trick is to keep the paper flat by securing the corners while/after spraying.

Overall, huge progress compared to earlier though, right?

 

[muggs]

It was definitely dry. I’d left it for 4 days before spraying. I think I sprayed too much.

I’m definitely not going to bin them. It should be useful for trying out some ageing and lume techniques.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[muggs]

I started again from scratch and made a better image there’s a lot less pixelation with this one and it has resulted in a better print. This is the one on photo paper. I’ve just printed one on decal paper, it looks good, but I don’t want to expose it to any dust.

This is with the one heavy spray of varnish. Despite it being a thick coat it doesn’t seem to have had great coverage and the ink started to run out. I then smudged it with my finger when trying to get it off the paper quickly.

Plus - I think I may go for this as the base watch:


https://www.pf-868.com/watches/role...10028s-vintage-50s-5510-ss-ss-blk-a-2836.html

It’s got all the elements I want apart from hands. They don’t show up on the TD list though so it may be a risk.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[muggs]

After a second coat of varnish. Ignore the scratches - it’s one of the wrinkled dials. This is the 1.0 image rather than the 2.0.

I plan to polish it a bit - the varnish is making it a bit lumpy.

This is the 2.0 image. Decal paper and one coat of varnish. Unfortunately the varnish seems to have made the ink run slightly.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk