First rep build - 6200 or 6538

[muggs]

First post from a long time lurker:

I'm planning to build my first rep - I want to go with an explorer dial and was thinking of using Bart Cordell 's dials to make one.

I was planing on using one of the TS station 6358 watches as a starting point as they seem a chap way to get the majority of the parts.

Is this the best way forwards or are there better starting points?

thanks

Muggs

 

[kilowattore]

If you mean the big crown 6538 you should rather get a silix or cartel watch, it's the same and costs a half.

 

[François.Fillon]

Also you can use case set from Tiger Concept, nice case and shape in last version (5508 V06) with good rotating bezel (120 click) in my view better bezel than Silix even it doesn't reflect the genuine construction.
Regarding decal dial related to Bart's thread, prepare yourself to have some homework to do... It's not easy to achieve in one shot the first time, some skills and patience are required...
When I had the time I will post the picts of the two cases Silix and TC

 

[muggs]

François.Fillon - thanks for the advice. I'm not really looking to do an exact 1:1 build and am looking for the easiest way to achieve good look for my first attempt. I have collected and painted scale models for years, so am pretty confident with use of decals - I think my main problem will be creating the decal rather than applying it to the dial.

The TC case looks good, but i'm assuming I'd have to change the crown as well. Ideally i'd use an ETA based movement rather than Japanese - i've found them to be quite loud in the past.

Is there a link to the cartel website? I have not found one in search or in the TD section.

 

[Julian13]

François.Fillon - thanks for the advice. I'm not really looking to do an exact 1:1 build and am looking for the easiest way to achieve good look for my first attempt. I have collected and painted scale models for years, so am pretty confident with use of decals - I think my main problem will be creating the decal rather than applying it to the dial.

The TC case looks good, but i'm assuming I'd have to change the crown as well. Ideally i'd use an ETA based movement rather than Japanese - i've found them to be quite loud in the past.

Is there a link to the cartel website? I have not found one in search or in the TD section.

I’ll chime in here:

“cartel” does not refer to a particular TD but rather the quality of the reps sold by a lot of the TDs (ex puretime or Silix) on the forums. They usually take a lot of work out of the box, they represent the cheapest you can get.

 

[François.Fillon]

As promised comparison between Silix and Tiger Concept case,

On the left Silix, on right TC 5508v6 case

How you can see, bezel is better on TC

To me lug are also better on TC

To sum-up, globally TC are better in quality and well finished, off course the case cost a bit more (of around 100 euros for TC ) than cheap Silix case.

 

[muggs]

Thanks Francois

I’ve had a look around the TDs and was thinking about this one from Hont Watch:

http://www.hontwatch.ru/rolsub184-vintage-sub-ref-6538-big-crown-james-bond-a2836-p-9285.html

If things work out well then I may upgrade to the Ruby 6538 case.

Muggs


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[François.Fillon]

Thanks Francois

I’ve had a look around the TDs and was thinking about this one from Hont Watch:

http://www.hontwatch.ru/rolsub184-vi...36-p-9285.html

If things work out well then I may upgrade to the Ruby 6538 case.

Muggs

For sure upgrade to Ruby will be better but in other hand that's not the same budget, check the movement on link you provide above it doesn't looks like a A2836 that's means if later you plan to use a ETA movement you can't reuse some parts in your custom build like hands, stem, movement ring also you will have to cut the dial feet.

 

[jomtones]

As promised comparison between Silix and Tiger Concept case,

On the left Silix, on right TC 5508v6 case

How you can see, bezel is better on TC

To me lug are also better on TC

To sum-up, globally TC are better in quality and well finished, off course the case cost a bit more (of around 100 euros for TC ) than cheap Silix case.

You got me excited because just yesterday I found the big crown TC watch I thought I lost. However, it must be some older version since it's not as nice as the pics you've uploaded. No chamfers, rehaut is slanted so much it looks like a wok, and the bezel isn't as nice. Though for $139, the 5508 looks like a good starter case. Is the rehaut less slanted for that case? Hard to tell from TC website.

 

[François.Fillon]

You got me excited because just yesterday I found the big crown TC watch I thought I lost. However, it must be some older version since it's not as nice as the pics you've uploaded. No chamfers, rehaut is slanted so much it looks like a wok, and the bezel isn't as nice. Though for $139, the 5508 looks like a good starter case. Is the rehaut less slanted for that case? Hard to tell from TC website.

Yes this TC case is better than previous versions also the rehaut is less slanted but to me this effect is accentuated by the original TC's plexi.
One thing to know with TC case, the dial is a 29mm vs Silix 28mm

 

[muggs]

So this is the dial I am going for. First test print on paper.

High quality paper top, low bottom

I think my printer may not be able to print in enough detail


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[chrome72]

i found my prints got better in quality when I selected "glossy paper type" and printed in color. The color mixed in some cayenne to make the black a darker black. Also, make sure you are printing the highest quality print setting.

 

[muggs]

My printer’s max resolution is 1200x600 dpi.

I tried using the ‘photo paper’ setting, but it was worse than the other two.

I’ll try at work tomorrow on a laser jet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[itgoes211]

muggs : How did the other printer work out for you? We’re you able to solve the issue?

I’ve noticed the actual paper matters as much as the computer/file and the printer settings. Some paper absorbs the inkjet ink and bleeds just enough to make everything a bit blurry. Sometimes this bleeding occurs even more at higher resolutions or dpi - possibly due to more ink being placed on the absorbent paper. And I learned from another post and verified that printing in color vs black/monochrome/grayscale makes a big difference.

I’ve tested most papers: actual glossy paper, photo paper, card stock, thick water-color paper, envelope labels, and even iron-on paper - on most of the settings in a few different printers, and with different file sizes, and also different files types. There are many variables to play and test with. I haven’t found a magic combination yet - I wish I could share one. But in the end, it’s how the print appears on the final printing/transfer paper. I burn through a lot paper and trash a lot of final versions.

Sorry I don’t have the answer for you. But tried to identify some of the variables that you can tweak and test to see what works for you. Good luck. Feel fee to reach out if you want to Q/A or brainstorm. Cheers.

 

[itgoes211]

muggs : sorry, forgot to mention two things. The other thread “Printed Dials” is a wealth of info on this exact issue - and a bunch of good gents sharing and baring. Check it out if you haven’t already.
And 1200dpi should be sufficient if it is tweaked appropriately. I just bought two 2400dpi Xerox laser and lcd professional level printers to get better resolution (and try some other techniques). And my $90 inkjet gives better results - probably because I have more time testing different combinations with the inkjet than I’ve had yet with the Xerox printers - and only partially because xerox software/settings su(#$ eggs.

 

[muggs]

itgoes211 thanks for the advice, I haven’t seen the printed dials thread. I’ll definitely check it out.

The work printer was no better - it’s a toner printer.

I’ve been trying on some low and high quality paper, but mostly using the high definition or photo printing settings.

I was thinking about asking a professional printing service to see what they can do - I’d probably leave off the Rolex branding until I know that they can deliver a good result.

I’ll have a play around with printer settings and see what happens.

I was also thinking of screen printing - though there are probably more difficulties in that route!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[itgoes211]

muggs : Sorry the work printer didn’t work. Perfect timing on your note though. I spent most of the day tweaking the files and settings on 4 dials I’m working on. I’ll show some pics of the notes I made as I printed the same file several times with different settings and file sizes. Using regular paper is useless for me b/c it bleeds no matter what the settings. So I’ve resorted to cutting A4/letter size decal paper into 4 sheets essentially 4”x5.5”, with ~8 dials per sheet.

When importing the different file sizes into the final 4”x5” file for printing, I note the file/import types by each dial. Then use that same file to print the 4 sheets using different printer setting combos and put those on sticky notes attached to each respective printout. The pic might make more sense...
these are on white decal paper. Same process again with a sheet of clear decal paper. The differences between the 8 different 4”x5.5” are interesting. Color ink vs grayscale, .TIF file vs .PNG file, color vs clear paper, gloss setting vs high-def setting, etc.

You see see the rabbit hole it leads to... step away from the keyboard now while you can! Lol. Don’t take the red pill... take the blue pill and keep your serenity and sanity... ;-)

Here are sample pics pics of the brain damage I’m causing myself. The 4 sheets in the middle are the sections from the same white decal paper sheet - you can see the difference in settings and file type make. Good luck, hope this helps.

Heres the link to the other dial printing thread: https://forum.replica-watch.info/forum/vintage-watches/249254-decal-printed-dial/page61

​​​​​​​

 

[itgoes211]

 

[itgoes211]

 

[muggs]

itgoes211 I’ve read that dials topic fully twice and reviewed bits more than that. I thought you we’re talking about one I hadn’t seen. That thread is the reason I thought I’d have a go!

I hadn’t been buying the decal paper as I didn’t want to waste any printing until I’d found a good setting to use. Maybe I should bite the bullet. I wonder if trying prints out on photo paper may be cheaper?

I’ve done some case aging on a Milgauss that I got a few years ago in Thailand to try out techniques. I’ll post some pics when I’ve polished it up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk