First Post – And I Have No Idea What I’m Doing 😅

[Isacco]

Hey everyone,​

so this is probably my first-ever post in any forum. I’ve always just lurked around, read lots of threads, but never had the courage (or the know-how) to actually participate. So, forgive me if I mess something up or post in the wrong place—I’m a forum rookie!

A little about me:
I’m Italian, 41 years old, and I live in the northeast of Italy. I’m a collector of original watches: I have an Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 15,000 Gauss, an Omega Speedmaster Apollo 17, a Tudor Pelagos GMT, a Longines Master Collection, and a few other bits and bobs. But recently, I’ve found myself getting a bit curious about the world of replicas—which brings me here.

My Spy Movie Replica Adventures​

My first replica experience was about ten years ago in China, and honestly, it felt like a scene from a spy movie. Imagine a broom closet hidden inside another broom closet, negotiating with a guy who started at €2,000 and after half an hour of wild bargaining, we landed on €50. The negotiation was way more memorable than the watch itself.


Just last week, I found myself in Shenzhen and did something similar—ended up buying another Submariners. They both looked pretty good in the "shop", especially with the plastic still on the bracelet. But… as soon as I took the plastic off, reality hit. The bracelet felt cheap, rattly, and, well, extremely fake. That’s when I realized: if I’m going to get a replica, maybe I should go for something a bit more “serious,” just for fun.

What I’m Looking For​

I really like the look of IWC Pilot Chronos, vintage Seamasters, and the Jaeger-LeCoultre Ultra Slim Moon Phase (though, to be honest, I haven’t seen any replica of that which is actually impressive). Of course, I’m also tempted by the classic Submariner—but please, not with the green bezel, a bit too flashy for my taste.


Here’s what worries me:

1. The bracelet: Are there decent replicas out there with a solid, non-rattly bracelet? Or is this just wishful thinking?
2. Water resistance: How waterproof are these reps really?
3. Durability & Repairs: If (or rather, when) something breaks, who do I go to? Is there anyone in Italy who touches these things?
4. Movement: if I go beyond the date I don't understand if the movement will really work as the original or I have to move it by hand (i.e. the moonphase....or maybe there is also a perpetual calendar in some replicas??????I don't know)

Anyway, that’s my story and my (many) doubts. Thanks for reading my ramble. Looking forward to hearing your advice and learning from the pros!

---

Let me know if you want it tweaked or made even more personal!

 

[Reaps]

Read my guide in my signature and you have a better grasp of the game. It answers alot of your questions.

Regarding movement functionality. The specific JLC Moonphase Ultra Thin model works like gen - moonphase and date tick over automatically.

However, all the perpetual/complicated watches often have a mix of manual and automatic function. Typically the day and date and moonphase is automatic but the year and month are manual. You need to research depending on each replica.

Bracelets.... depends on the level of watch and factory. I will say most Rolex high level Clean/VSF bracelet are nice but really it depends on the guy making bracelet that day... I've had good and bad bracelets from both factories. I feel that many people are bracelet snobs. Yes sometimes bracelet can be a little sharp but it is a $500 replica. Spend the money to professionally repolish and soften the bracelet or just live with it. Gen rolex bracelet costs 1.5k+, you can buy 10 fake bracelets for that price.

 

[kadeee]

Buongiorno,

some - hopefully helpful - answers to your questions:

• Bracelet: as Reaps already said, some are good, others not. However, if you stay away from the cheap fakes you can expect a more or less non-rattly bracelet. Remember that we are speaking about Replicas. Screws are a problem, sometimes a screw will untighten itself as you wear the watch. You can solve this problem yourself by loosening the screw and dripping a drop of Loctite threadlocker into the thread before refastening it.
• Water resistance:It depends on several things.
  • Case design: If the case of the genuine watch is water resistant, this can usually also be achieved with replicas. It may be necessary to replace the gaskets, as these can be damaged during assembly.
  • Gaskets: in rare cases, no or damaged gaskets are used in replicas. More often, these are not used with grease so that they are damaged during assembly
• Durability and repairs: The fewer complications a movement has, the more likely it is to perform reliable. Of course, there are exceptions in both directions.
  • The 2813 (low end), for example, is a so-called tractor, but often breaks down. However, this often happens after a short time. The good thing is that it is cheap and not worth repairing. Any experienced hobby watchmaker should be able to replace it for you. A commercial watchmaker will rarely take on such watches, as he has to give a guarantee on his work.
  • The 4130 clone, which was first used in Noob Daytonas, is generally a very reliable movement. Please note that the replica factories do not work under clean room conditions. My watchmaker has already found hairs or screws in clone movements that are generally considered reliable. The movements are also very often poorly oiled, and sometimes movement parts are installed incorrectly. I would definitely recommend a service for high-end clone movements.
  • Other (real) Clone movements might be not compatible with the authentic calibers, which means that parts are not interchangeable with each other. This might cause frustration in case a clone movement breaks.
  • There are known watchmakers who also repair replicas. Many of them are also published in the forum here.
• Cases: although you didn't ask, I would advise you not to buy gold-plated watches. Often the gold tone simply doesn't match and the watch is immediately recognizable as a fake. Or the plating is so thin that the steel underneath shows through after just a few wears. In the meantime, I have also read that the versions that are considered to be gen-weight due to the use of a tungsten alloy are very difficult to plate and the plating is not always durable.

My watchmaker e.g., does not accept PP real clone movements any longer since no spare parts are available. Same with the Omega 8800 clone movements.
Thinking about a 5-digit Submariner Date (Ref. 16800, 168000 or 16610), I have to admit that every single piece currently available has flaws. The most obvious visible flaw is the crown guard, which is clearly too short. And there is no out of the box 5-digit Submariner (no date, Ref. 14060) available.
Thinking about a 6-digit Submariner I'd go the VSF route.

Hope that helps

 

[RepsAllDay]

Welcome!

 

[Isacco]

Read my guide in my signature and you have a better grasp of the game. It answers alot of your questions.

Regarding movement functionality. The specific JLC Moonphase Ultra Thin model works like gen - moonphase and date tick over automatically.

However, all the perpetual/complicated watches often have a mix of manual and automatic function. Typically the day and date and moonphase is automatic but the year and month are manual. You need to research depending on each replica.

Bracelets.... depends on the level of watch and factory. I will say most Rolex high level Clean/VSF bracelet are nice but really it depends on the guy making bracelet that day... I've had good and bad bracelets from both factories. I feel that many people are bracelet snobs. Yes sometimes bracelet can be a little sharp but it is a $500 replica. Spend the money to professionally repolish and soften the bracelet or just live with it. Gen rolex bracelet costs 1.5k+, you can buy 10 fake bracelets for that price.

The idea that I made is that for Rolex models replicas have reached a good level of similarity, but i.e. the JLC I mentioned looks a little bit behind in similarity. Now that IO know that the moonphase works I could consider to buy it, but I'm scared that when I have in my hand it will look a genuine fake. Have you ever seen it?

 

[Isacco]

Buongiorno,

some - hopefully helpful - answers to your questions:

• Bracelet: as Reaps already said, some are good, others not. However, if you stay away from the cheap fakes you can expect a more or less non-rattly bracelet. Remember that we are speaking about Replicas. Screws are a problem, sometimes a screw will untighten itself as you wear the watch. You can solve this problem yourself by loosening the screw and dripping a drop of Loctite threadlocker into the thread before refastening it.

Interesting! I have to try to fix it, but I still have the impression that the bracelet is "light". I've never had a Submariner, but compared to my omega/zenith/longines and Tudor watches it feels like it is not the same material.

Regarding the case, I will never buy a gold plated case.....I've been in China, I've seen how they plate....regardless the durability or the look, It's not a not a good idea to put that sh*t on my wrist!

Regarding the movement....I hate the sound I hear from the rep's I had, I want something better for both the "Ticking" and the rotoir movement. I also like to see the second hand move smoothly (That honestly also in soe gen is not so smooth, like in the Longines Master that I have).

 

[Reaps]

The idea that I made is that for Rolex models replicas have reached a good level of similarity, but i.e. the JLC I mentioned looks a little bit behind in similarity. Now that IO know that the moonphase works I could consider to buy it, but I'm scared that when I have in my hand it will look a genuine fake. Have you ever seen it?

You need to research. The model comes from APSF/ZF and both are different with different strength and weakness. Clone 925 movement is also highly unreliable.

 

[Art Vandelay]

negotiating with a guy who started at €2,000 and after half an hour of wild bargaining, we landed on €50.

Welcome.

 

[Isacco]

Read my guide in my signature and you have a better grasp of the game. It answers alot of your questions.

I saw your collection....fantastic! There are some that I really like
- ZF IWC 3777 Black Dial - what do you think of this watch? I love that model, even if I prefer the more "pilot" model (the one that shows the day before and the day after). Does it work properly with all the chrono function and the dates????
- also the VSF 126610 Date Submariner, Q66 looks beautiful. Whta the Q66 stands for?

 

[Reaps]

I saw your collection....fantastic! There are some that I really like
- ZF IWC 3777 Black Dial - what do you think of this watch? I love that model, even if I prefer the more "pilot" model (the one that shows the day before and the day after). Does it work properly with all the chrono function and the dates????
- also the VSF 126610 Date Submariner, Q66 looks beautiful. Whta the Q66 stands for?

ZF IWC 3777 is an okay watch for the price it's ok. Aesthetically it is 9.5/10. Yes all the functions work. But the A7750 is only ok at best. Advice given is not to run the 7750 too much unless you service it. Also I would reccomend a nice leather strap over bracelet.

The IWX model you like - it isn't avaliable anymore, only member sales.

Q66 stands for the serial number/batch of the watch. It is insignificant imho. Just a way to differentitate from older VS model.

 

[kadeee]

Interesting! I have to try to fix it, but I still have the impression that the bracelet is "light". I've never had a Submariner, but compared to my omega/zenith/longines and Tudor watches it feels like it is not the same material.

Regarding the case, I will never buy a gold plated case.....I've been in China, I've seen how they plate....regardless the durability or the look, It's not a not a good idea to put that sh*t on my wrist!

Regarding the movement....I hate the sound I hear from the rep's I had, I want something better for both the "Ticking" and the rotoir movement. I also like to see the second hand move smoothly (That honestly also in soe gen is not so smooth, like in the Longines Master that I have).

I can tell you for sure that you won't notice a big difference e.g., between a RLX 93250 bracelet from JF or ARF and a genuine one in therms of weight. The biggest problem here is the dirt that has accumulated in the replica bracelet. The edges are not as perfectly rounded as you would expect from Rolex. But in terms of the weight of the bracelets, there is no noticeable difference. I can tell you that for sure as I own a Genuine 16610T as well as I have owned a stock JF 16610T too.

And yes, there is a difference between a VSF (Dandong) 3135 clone movement and a Rolex Caliber 3135, even in it's sound. The Rolex Caliber sounds a bit louder on a Timegrapher than the Clone movement. This certainly has to do with the higher precision with which the Rolex Caliber is manufactured. Please do not misunderstand, both movements are not really audible. The acoustic difference can be heard on a time scale with a built-in loudspeaker. Without opening the case, the Clone movement cannot be identified by the typical Rolex bell sound.
The rotor is also equally quiet on the 3135 Clone movements. Since Rolex has changed the bearing technology for the 32xx caliber (plain bearing mounted rotors for the 31xx movements, ball bearing mounted rotors for the 32xx movements), these are slightly louder than the original Rolex movements. However, it should be noted that the 32xx movements - whether clone or genuine - are always louder than the 31xx movements.
Since the 413x movements from Rolex also have ball-bearing rotors, they are also somewhat louder. But don't panic, both the 32xx and the 413x clone movements can be quietened down a little so that this is no longer a problem. The rotation of the rotor in Rolex Clone movements is by no means as audible or noticeable as it is in Valjoux 7750 calibers, for example.
And you'll get a wonderful sweeping second on RLX replicas, no matter if they are (A)ETA 2824/2836 based or if a 3135 Clone is working inside.

 

[Isacco]

I can tell you for sure that you won't notice a big difference e.g., between a RLX 93250 bracelet from JF or ARF and a genuine one in therms of weight. The biggest problem here is the dirt that has accumulated in the replica bracelet. The edges are not as perfectly rounded as you would expect from Rolex. But in terms of the weight of the bracelets, there is no noticeable difference. I can tell you that for sure as I own a Genuine 16610T as well as I have owned a stock JF 16610T too.

And yes, there is a difference between a VSF (Dandong) 3135 clone movement and a Rolex Caliber 3135, even in it's sound. The Rolex Caliber sounds a bit louder on a Timegrapher than the Clone movement. This certainly has to do with the higher precision with which the Rolex Caliber is manufactured. Please do not misunderstand, both movements are not really audible. The acoustic difference can be heard on a time scale with a built-in loudspeaker. Without opening the case, the Clone movement cannot be identified by the typical Rolex bell sound.
The rotor is also equally quiet on the 3135 Clone movements. Since Rolex has changed the bearing technology for the 32xx caliber (plain bearing mounted rotors for the 31xx movements, ball bearing mounted rotors for the 32xx movements), these are slightly louder than the original Rolex movements. However, it should be noted that the 32xx movements - whether clone or genuine - are always louder than the 31xx movements.
Since the 413x movements from Rolex also have ball-bearing rotors, they are also somewhat louder. But don't panic, both the 32xx and the 413x clone movements can be quietened down a little so that this is no longer a problem. The rotation of the rotor in Rolex Clone movements is by no means as audible or noticeable as it is in Valjoux 7750 calibers, for example.
And you'll get a wonderful sweeping second on RLX replicas, no matter if they are (A)ETA 2824/2836 based or if a 3135 Clone is working inside.

so if I understand well, buying something like this ( https://forum.replica-watch.info/threads/eu-vsf-116610-black-sub.11007413/ ) I would have
1. a bracelet that is as heavy and almost identical except for edges not rounded perfectly
2. a movement that runs smoothly, is robust and sounds well
3. an overall level that looks very good in my opinion, I don't see differences (and I'm not expert)

Isn't it? is it a good price/good piece to start with? I like also the GMT Master, but I'm scared of discolouring - I saw many GMT pepsi (GEN, I assume) thta have the red half that turned orange.....no good.

Buying an used watch from EU already would be ok for me even because I’m a bit worried that the watch might get stopped at customs and that I could get fined.

 

[Reaps]

You're worrying too much. It's typical of a new member to pick over everything, afraid they will get called out.

If you are afraid - simple. Don't buy replica, just buy more gens. No need to fuss about these things.

The only way is to jump and buy a watch after some research.After you buy a few of the top tier watches and handle them you'll realize how good they are.

Also. Show me where "GMT" turns "orange". Sorry but I've never even seen this on Clean pepsi. Misinformation galore.

 

[RW5513]

OP, welcome aboard !

Forget the watches, this place is awesome because the folks around, watches are just secondary .

Like anything in life, if one wants better one needs to pay, or do. Many great replies already, so I won't dwell much and just say this, using a Submariner as an example:

You can buy a $185 replica or make a $5000 Frankenstein... But really, only YOU will know and notice the differences , and at the end, that's what matters !

Enjoy the friendships here !

RW

Hey everyone,​

so this is probably my first-ever post in any forum. I’ve always just lurked around, read lots of threads, but never had the courage (or the know-how) to actually participate. So, forgive me if I mess something up or post in the wrong place—I’m a forum rookie!

A little about me:
I’m Italian, 41 years old, and I live in the northeast of Italy. I’m a collector of original watches: I have an Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 15,000 Gauss, an Omega Speedmaster Apollo 17, a Tudor Pelagos GMT, a Longines Master Collection, and a few other bits and bobs. But recently, I’ve found myself getting a bit curious about the world of replicas—which brings me here.

My Spy Movie Replica Adventures​

My first replica experience was about ten years ago in China, and honestly, it felt like a scene from a spy movie. Imagine a broom closet hidden inside another broom closet, negotiating with a guy who started at €2,000 and after half an hour of wild bargaining, we landed on €50. The negotiation was way more memorable than the watch itself.


Just last week, I found myself in Shenzhen and did something similar—ended up buying another Submariners. They both looked pretty good in the "shop", especially with the plastic still on the bracelet. But… as soon as I took the plastic off, reality hit. The bracelet felt cheap, rattly, and, well, extremely fake. That’s when I realized: if I’m going to get a replica, maybe I should go for something a bit more “serious,” just for fun.

What I’m Looking For​

I really like the look of IWC Pilot Chronos, vintage Seamasters, and the Jaeger-LeCoultre Ultra Slim Moon Phase (though, to be honest, I haven’t seen any replica of that which is actually impressive). Of course, I’m also tempted by the classic Submariner—but please, not with the green bezel, a bit too flashy for my taste.


Here’s what worries me:

1. The bracelet: Are there decent replicas out there with a solid, non-rattly bracelet? Or is this just wishful thinking?
2. Water resistance: How waterproof are these reps really?
3. Durability & Repairs: If (or rather, when) something breaks, who do I go to? Is there anyone in Italy who touches these things?
4. Movement: if I go beyond the date I don't understand if the movement will really work as the original or I have to move it by hand (i.e. the moonphase....or maybe there is also a perpetual calendar in some replicas??????I don't know)

Anyway, that’s my story and my (many) doubts. Thanks for reading my ramble. Looking forward to hearing your advice and learning from the pros!

---

Let me know if you want it tweaked or made even more personal!

 

[eBoy]

Today is apparently Write-A-Novel-In-Every-Post Day, so let me join right in....

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New Members - WELCOME! Must reads and interesting info, START HERE!

Welcome to RWI! :) Here are some links with interesting information and must-reads, that helped me a lot in the beginning. Hope it will do the same for you! Start reading, there is a lot of interesting information available. Reaps Generic Guide to The Replica Game in 2025. How Do I Do...

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Thinking about making a purchase or working with a dealer? Make sure to read this guide first—it’s quick, straight to the point, and could save you from common scams. Even if you think you're savvy, a refresher never hurts. It’s one of the most important tools we offer to help members stay informed and protected:

THE QUICK RWI ANTI-FRAUD GUIDE FOR PEOPLE WHO DON'T LIKE TO READ

THE QUICK RWI ANTI-FRAUD GUIDE FOR PEOPLE WHO DON'T LIKE TO READ, BUT WANT TO BUY A REPLICA: Intro: This guide is supposed to serve as a fast reference sheet for newbies to get a quick scam prevention overview over the most important things to consider before buying a rep. Remember: You need...

forum.replica-watch.info

If you ever find yourself confused, unsure where to post, or just want to talk something through, don’t hesitate to reach out. You can message me directly or get in touch with @Feefo, who’s also here to help guide you. We’re always happy to assist, though we ask for a little patience—like you, we have lives outside the forum and might not reply instantly. Still, your questions are always welcome, and we’ll get back to you as soon as we can.

Once again, we warmly welcome you aboard! We’re truly excited to have you as part of the RWI family and can’t wait to see what you bring to the table. Dive in, get involved, and most of all—enjoy the ride. There’s a whole world of watch wisdom and camaraderie waiting for you here. See you around the forum!

 

[Isacco]

You're worrying too much. It's typical of a new member to pick over everything, afraid they will get called out.

If you are afraid - simple. Don't buy replica, just buy more gens. No need to fuss about these things.

The only way is to jump and buy a watch after some research.After you buy a few of the top tier watches and handle them you'll realize how good they are.

Also. Show me where "GMT" turns "orange". Sorry but I've never even seen this on Clean pepsi. Misinformation galore.

something like this - I have a couple of friends that got it for their university degree in the early 2000 and now they are discoloured

 

[Isacco]

 

[Art Vandelay]

5 digits have aluminium inserts which do tend to fade over time. In many eyes this is desirable.

The modern references use cerachrom (ceramic) which is far more resistant to fading.

 

[Fiddo]

something like this - I have a couple of friends that got it for their university degree in the early 2000 and now they are discoloured

After 20+ years all things age and degrade. I certainly have! It's good to be careful and cautious. I think you might be overthinking this whole watch thing, though. Pick one of the watches suggested in the thread, but it and enjoy it for what it is.... a pretty good copy of something that costs many times more.

Welcome and continue to post!

 

[Isacco]

Here we are - bought!
I followed your suggestion and I decided to go, I will maybe evolve to something more particular in the future but let’s start with the traditional, evergreen, submariner (from Paul.co)
I think I will be happy!