It looks like the seller hasn't got any more of these (in this size). All the other rep aftermarket bracelets have only 6 adjustment holes - your version linked above has the correct 7. I know people replace the clasp but this detail makes me think it will be higher quality version than the other slightly cheaper ones.
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First Franken build (Datejust)
- Thread starter Parto
- Start date
It looks like the seller hasn't got any more of these (in this size). All the other rep aftermarket bracelets have only 6 adjustment holes - your version linked above has the correct 7. I know people replace the clasp but this detail makes me think it will be higher quality version than the other slightly cheaper ones.
I've found a couple of suppliers for what looks like the same jubilee - both are double what the etsy listing was for sale at though.!!
In the US startime have it:
http://www.startimesupply.com/mercha...ch_Begin_Only=
And in the EU:
https://watchparts24.de/Steel-Bracel...bracelet-Gents
I have bought one from watchparts24 so just need a gen clasp and possibly end links
In the US startime have it:
http://www.startimesupply.com/mercha...ch_Begin_Only=
And in the EU:
https://watchparts24.de/Steel-Bracel...bracelet-Gents
I have bought one from watchparts24 so just need a gen clasp and possibly end links
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I'm still waiting for the movement and hands to arrive but I've now received my datewheels. Ideally I'd like a gen open 6 & 9 but they are too rare and expensive to justify sanding down to fit in a 2836 (sw220).
So my current options are Raffles open 6 & 9 (top left) or a gen closed 6 & 9 - as you can see I've got a few to practice on
So my current options are Raffles open 6 & 9 (top left) or a gen closed 6 & 9 - as you can see I've got a few to practice on
I decided to attach new dial feet (for eta mvmt) this morning to the rolex dial. I'm worried I've increased the dial height now too much to allow me to use the gen tudor hands.
I'm not sure now if I'm best removing the dial feet and attaching to the spacer (as others typically do) which still might not give enough clearance or to use raffles tall hands instead of the tudor ones.
Other option would be to reconsider the sw220 movement I have bought and look at the eta2824 with h4 conversion (which I'd have to get a watchmaker to do for me).
Thoughts anyone?
I'm not sure now if I'm best removing the dial feet and attaching to the spacer (as others typically do) which still might not give enough clearance or to use raffles tall hands instead of the tudor ones.
Other option would be to reconsider the sw220 movement I have bought and look at the eta2824 with h4 conversion (which I'd have to get a watchmaker to do for me).
Thoughts anyone?
I decided to remove the feet (before the epoxy cured) and attach to the spacer. It will make fitting a dw overlay more difficult (with the dial not fixed) but it does give some more clearance.
It's very tight but might just be able to get the hour hand over the markers.
It's very tight but might just be able to get the hour hand over the markers.
Do the H4 conversion and you should be fine...I have the Raffles 41mm DJ and am doing the same thing. The hour wheel and cannon pinion are really easy to swap. The fourth wheel is easy for a watchmaker...I usually take both the train bridge and winding bridge off, remove the ratchet wheel, balance, pallet fork, and escape wheel, replace 4th wheel....install the escape wheel and train bridge and winding bridge. At this point, turn the barrel to make sure the train rotates...if it does, reassemble all remaining parts.
You can try and just remove the train bridge and ratchet wheel to do just the 4th wheel, but I have found sometimes with the 4th wheel pivots can skew out of the train bridge jewel as you tighten it down...that is why I like to disassemble everything to make sure the train all works before I tighten it all down.
You can try and just remove the train bridge and ratchet wheel to do just the 4th wheel, but I have found sometimes with the 4th wheel pivots can skew out of the train bridge jewel as you tighten it down...that is why I like to disassemble everything to make sure the train all works before I tighten it all down.
Thanks - can I check what height the hour wheel is on the 2824 with the H4 conversion? Looking at cousins a SW220-1 should have a H4 as standard (1.75mm height) so am I right in thinking this should be same. My issue isn't with the hour hand as plenty of clearance over the dial, its the minute hand clearing the raised markers.
https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/sellita-movement-list
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If you have H4 standard hour wheel (1.75 is correct), I suspect you have the H4 cannon and 4th wheel already.
If H4 is not high enough, you can go H5 or H6...parts might be a bit harder to find...plus, you don't want to run up against the crystal with the second hand.
If H4 is not high enough, you can go H5 or H6...parts might be a bit harder to find...plus, you don't want to run up against the crystal with the second hand.
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Thanks Specter1000 I'll try to get it to work as is on that basis. If the minute hand doesn't clear I have a set of Raffles tall hands I can use but will need to age the lume to match the dial and they are obviously not the same quality as the Tudor ones.
Raffles dwo is 0.15mm by my measurement same as gen datewheel. The sw-220 was 0.3mm excluding the recessed teeth. The printing is 0.1mm of this so 0.2mm once removed.
I've removed printing and attach gen dw as overlay (unsanded). Seems to have enough clearance but will confirm once watch is fully built. Annoyingly my tweezers slipped and I scratched by one number (13). I'll live with it for now but could look to change further down the line. I used hypo cement which was much harder than I thought as was a struggle to move once I placed on.
So in the end fitted another gen dw as I scratched the 13 on the other.
Then discovered my tudor hour hands are slightly too long and would hit the hour battons if installed. I've put on some raffles tall hands for now. Just need to cut the stem tomorrow.
Then discovered my tudor hour hands are slightly too long and would hit the hour battons if installed. I've put on some raffles tall hands for now. Just need to cut the stem tomorrow.
s.orologiaio
Active Member
- 19/7/17
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If the case is a 16200, a clone 3135 is an easy swap, also get a gen dw, dial feet and hands. Why you used an eta? It’s quite impossible to make a sanded gen dw turn freely+glueing dial on the dial ring.
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s.orologiaio
Active Member
- 19/7/17
- 424
- 141
- 43
Sorry I made confusion.. the best for a 3035 case, imo, is a 2836+h5 cannon pinion and hour wheel. Second wheel is ok h3. So as you have a strong date-change mechanism which is able to overpass some possible dw friction/misplanarity
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So I've replaced the endlinks from some spare Raffles ones I had which fir much better. I've also decided the tall raffles hands are too short so ordered some Clark's ones where I plan to use the hour hand only and then put the gen Tudor minute and second hands on (provided I can match the lume). Really liking the watch though.
Finally finished with this build. Fitted some Clarks hands where I coloured the lume to match the plots. Had to bend the minute hand slightly to clear the markers but very happy with the end result
