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First Franken build (Datejust)

Parto

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I am attempting my first ever franken build, an early 80’s Datejust (16014), and would welcome any advice. The inspiration for this build is a stonep build with an amazing blue dial:
https://forum.replica-watch.info/for...ust-matte-blue

I’ve read quite a few build threads on datejusts which have been really useful with particular thanks to pompompurin for his build threads (though not all pictures are now showing). So far I’m still gathering components and now have these parts on their way.

Gen blue T swiss T dial
20200605-141458.jpg


Gen Case set with white gold bezel, crystal and crown (thanks to thrillofhunt)
9f118a6118e513b0a6a099f5ba1f055c-plist.jpg


Collecting these parts has so far been relatively easy as they are all gen and designed to work together and I’m now at (I think) the most critical decision – what movement to use.

Gen 3035 movements are scarce (and very expensive) so probably a no go for now. Originally, I was hoping to use a VR3135 as I thought it was same size as the 3035. Using this would mean I wouldn’t have to clip existing dial feet and could use gen hands/dw. However, the more I’ve read it doesn’t look to be possible without modifying the case (which I’m not going to do) so this doesn’t look like an option.

That leaves the ETA route and from previous threads it looks like the options are 2824 or 2836.

ETA 2824:

most commonly used in datejust builds
  • stock hour wheel doesn’t have enough clearance (with DWO) unless Raffles tall hands are used
  • H4 hour wheel can be installed but I remember pompompurin saying this was quite difficult and I’m not a watchmaker. If installed startime hands could be used which are longer than gen but can be shortened to the correct length (raffles are too short vs gen)
ETA 2836:
  • H4 hour wheel is stock so no clearance issues
  • Potential issues with stem alignment (rubbing with case tube)
  • Does the day function need to be removed (is this easy)
There is also the Sellita SW220 which is cheaper but does anyone know if this is H2 or H4 as stock as isn't mentioned on listings I've seen?

The other part of the build I am unsure what to go with is the date wheel overlay. I really want an open 6/9 date wheel as part of this build. Pompompurin has said the raffles open 6/9 overlay font (particularly in the 20s) is really for a 70s datejust but is there another alternative (other than trying to find a gen)? I know WSO have an open 6/9 for a 3035 but I have only seen a closed 6/9 from them for the 3135.

This is my first build from scratch so would really appreciate any help/guidance. I’ve swapped movements, dials and removed/attached hands quite a few times but haven’t had to modify/replace parts in a movement before which makes me think an H4 conversion might not be the best option.
 
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sgt.njoy

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Looking forward to your build! I really want 16014 or 16030 silver linen dial. Asking a lot of people if they can build me one lol
Anyway, I just saw babanj resent build on reddit and he has vr3135 movement on 16233 case.
You can probably ask him for the guidance if you don't want to clip your dial feet and install gen hands/dw.
 

Parto

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16200 had a 3135, 16014 had a 3035 so different case.
 

Parto

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Oh I didn't know the case size were different from.

They are both the same external diameter but I think the 16200 has a very slightly bigger internal diameter. If a 3135 did fit it would make everything much easier.!!
 

Specter1000

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When changing out the H4 hour wheel, you also need H4 cannon pinion and the H4 4th wheel. Not difficult to change out for someone who has some experience in working on movements. All 3 parts give you the correct hour/minute/second hand install height.
 
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Specter1000

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Also, you might use H3 height. I am working on a Tudor Datejust and the H4 was bit too high for my liking...H3 was perfect.
 
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Parto

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it can be made to work with the 3135 but the inside of the 16014 case requires some machining, i think the selita is the way to go.

I'm leaning towards the sw220. The 2836 isnt ideal for a 162xx build but should be ok for 160xx case. I'm looking to get a gen datewheel and use as an overlay. I'm hoping this won't need to be sanded to still use with 2836/sw220?
 
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Parto

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Also, you might use H3 height. I am working on a Tudor Datejust and the H4 was bit too high for my liking...H3 was perfect.

There are conversion kits for sale on ebay with all three wheels. I'm not confident enough to do the conversion myself so the budget friendly option is the eta2836/sw220.
 

Parto

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Hands bought, NOS tudor dress hands for a date day (hopefully the right length). This build is getting expensive....
20200610-095446.jpg
 
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irishjohn

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Heres my 1993 tritium dial 16220 super franken for some inspiration...all gen except for a vr3135, Clarks crystal and the Italian jubilee...clasp is gen though.

6 months and a few false starts, it's worth it though.
 

Parto

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Heres my 1993 tritium dial 16220 super franken for some inspiration...all gen except for a vr3135, Clarks crystal and the Italian jubilee...clasp is gen though.

6 months and a few false starts, it's worth it though.

It looks good, a 16200 case would have made things much easier (with VR3135) but I'm trying to do a birth year build. I've sourced everything other than the bracelet and datewheel I might be remembering a different post but was your jubilee from etsy? How is the quality compared to a gen at or a cheaper Raffles (which I have already and isn't great)?
 

irishjohn

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The Italian jubilees are very close to gen, way better than a raffles jubile.
 

Docrolex

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I have done the same build, even exactly the same dial ! I had all parts including gen hands, and bought a vr 3135 here. My watchmaker was able to fit it, but it is a little too thick, we tried another gen. Dial, it was the same. He could not use the original movement holding screws. So he improvised and fixed the movement with some kind of special watchmaker putty, which worked fine. Only bug is, you can no more close the caseback completely tight, as it blocks the rotor. When unscrewed half turn, everything works fine and the caseback is still tight enough. I could remove some material from the inner caseback, easy fix with a lathe, but this would damage the original part what I want to avoid. I will try a second gasket, should work, but not urgent, I can wear the watch right now without worrying. I think that cutting dial feet and installing a non original Eta is mor challenging than fitting a VR 3135. both are tasks which you cannot do by yourself but have to be done by an experienced watchmaker.
 

Parto

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I've removed dial feet before and its relatively easy. I'll be attaching dial feet again but for eta movement rather than glue to a spacer or movement ring.

I'd rather remove dial feet than permanently change a gen case. Feel free to post any build photos on this thread it's always good to see how others attempt similar builds.

My blue dial has arrived, Ive also ordered a top grade sw220 (hoping it has a h4 pinion) and still waiting for case set to arrive. Looking forward to making a start once everything arrives.