Ex-ki Corner - Watchmaking tools, reports & tutorials

[Ex-ki]

I had started a topic in the French section a few weeks ago, but as there is little animation at the moment among the Frenchies I will restart it here.

As I had presented in the original topic, I have been passionate about watchmaking for almost ten years now and I fell into the replica world when I arrived here in 2012.

Since the beginning I wanted to learn watchmaking repair and maintenance techniques for the pleasure of learning new things.
I acquired a lot of equipment lately and I'm gradually learning the different techniques practiced in our hobby.

I invite you to follow me on this adventure through this logbook of what we call in french a "bidouilleur" (an experimental watchmaker, or more generally speaking an experimental craftsman whatever the activity is).
I will post photo reports on my projects here as I go. Please feel free to comment, and enjoy this trip with me.

Message to moderators: if this topic is not in the right section, don't hesitate to move it.

 

[enduser]

Good for you. I'd love to learn how to do the basics (at least) but I'm probably too ham-fisted. Good luck with your journey.

 

[DrHack]

Excellent, anxious to see your work! Subscribed.

 

[Ex-ki]

Let's start with an overview of my tool kit from now on.

Here is the full detail of all the tools I own, with links to the websites/shops where I ordered them and the prices I paid (if any of you are interested in buying them).

Note 1: I bought some of the tools in French stores, but you can easily find equivalent tools on the web.
Note 2: Links below are not affiliate links, I just use a shortener.

My original watch tools kit bought from Offshore's website (Watchbitz) here a few years ago.
Unfortunately his website no longer exists. Too bad, it was a good and very complete kit to start with: tweezers, screwdrivers, case back opener, Rodico, magnifying glass, movement vices, etc.

Tools purchased from Selfor France:

• Bergeon 7808 bench mat: 39€ (https://bit.ly/2EMtArf) >> My review: very confortable to work with. Essential.
• Grip ball case back opener: 7€ (https://bit.ly/3lCj7PH) >> My review: Essential.
• Plastic dust cover: 6€ (https://bit.ly/32JghzT) >> My review: Essential.
• Watch case holder: 17€ (https://bit.ly/2EPWR4a) >> My review: Essential.
• Double ended pin vice: 8€ (https://bit.ly/31PKQEJ) >> My review: Multiple uses. Essential.
• Balance bridge holder: 5€ (https://bit.ly/3hNPrNa) >> My review: to keep balance wheels safe from accidents. Not essential but very useful.
• Hand removing levers: 14€ (https://bit.ly/2DiCuvO) >> My review: Essential.
• Leather case cushion (75mm): 15€ (https://bit.ly/3jyDNGw) >> My review: a basic at a fair price.

Tools purchased on Amazon:

• Chinese Rolex case opening dies kit: 23€ (https://amzn.to/2EUFFug) >> My review: works very well.
• Demagnetizer: 15€ (https://amzn.to/2Dpjoo0) >> My review: same.
• Nylon spudgers: 6€ (https://amzn.to/31O1eWb) >> My review: good for handling movement parts scratch-free.
• 400 finger cots: 13€ (https://amzn.to/2Gbuaiu)

Tools purchased on AliExpress:

• Mainspring winders set: 70€ (https://bit.ly/3lEjeKu) >> My review: don't buy it, quality is poor. See this video for more info: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtO9-zIn1Go
• Bezel remover pliers: 92€ (https://bit.ly/3bii4zR) >> My review: don't buy it, doesn't work. This is totally crap.
• Oil cup stand: 24€ (https://bit.ly/34UYoR6) >> My review: very good quality for the price. You can go on this one.
• Dial support: 4€ (https://bit.ly/3jsTTBw) >> My review: no need to invest in Bergeon 7153, this one does the job very well.
• Crown tube remover: 7€ (https://bit.ly/2DiEq7y) >> My review: never used it for the moment.

Tools purchased on eBay:

• Ultrasonic cleaning basket parts holders: 25€ for the kit (https://bit.ly/2GkBZmb) >> My review: great for the price but fragile. Be careful.
• Brass tweezers set: 10€ (https://bit.ly/2ERQopk) >> My review: cheap but great for the price.

Tools purchased on CousinsUK - batch 1:

• Case back & crystal fitting press: 30€ (https://bit.ly/2YTP6kP) >> My review: cheap but it works very well. 24 nylon dies included.
• Round glasses remover Bergeon 4266: 53€ (https://bit.ly/3bijXMI) >> My review: don't buy this expensive tool. He's useless as soon as you have a press.
• Rolex case back dies holder: 30€ (https://bit.ly/3hRfhzN) >> My review: a great tool if you open case backs without a vice.

Tools purchased on CousinsUK - batch 2:

• Plastic compartment trays: 13€ (https://bit.ly/3jA8drN) >> My review: useful and not expensive.
• CousinsUK hand removing levers: 25€ (https://bit.ly/3jF3pkT) >> My review: superior to cheaper one models. Worth to buy.
• Horotec Delrin tweezers: 20€ (https://bit.ly/32KrJLz) >> My review: very good to work on fragile parts but expensive. Brass tweezers are sufficient.
• Bergeon 6899-P05 elastomer coat screwdrivers set: 53€ (https://bit.ly/2YUJwyu) >> My review: very confortable to work with. I recommend.
• Horotec hand fitting tools: 10/12€ each (https://bit.ly/3lDDyeZ) >> My review: I prefer to use these, but you can use a hand fitting press too.
• CousinsUK barrel cover closer: 8€ (https://bit.ly/3bhy198) >> My review: a very handy tool if you are working on barrels.
• Bergeon 5395-75 gel cushion (75mm): 28€ (https://bit.ly/2EPTBpF) >> My review: better than the leather model. I recommend.

Tools purchased on CousinsUK - batch 3:

• Pith wood sticks: 3€ (https://bit.ly/34PbQWS) >> My review: not expensive, very useful to clean oilers.
• Moebius D5: 30€ (https://bit.ly/2QMEoYW) >> My review: essential to lubricate watch movement parts.
• Moebius 8212: 19€ (https://bit.ly/2QO8ivy) >> >> My review: for barrel walls. Not essential.
• Moebius 9010 "Synt-A-Lube" : 19€ (https://bit.ly/3bhyIzg) >> My review: essential.
• Moebius 8200: 13€ (https://bit.ly/2Zczaub) >> My review: for mainspring and other parts. Essential.
• Moebius 9504: 50€ (https://bit.ly/3bm13EH) >> My review: for canon pinion, time setting, etc. Very expensive and not essential. Can be replace by 8300.
• Horotec eyeglasses n°1 (10x magnification) & n°2 (5x magnification): 35€ each (https://bit.ly/32JkL9H) >> My review: very good eyeglasses. They worth the investment, I recommend.
• Bergeon 30102-P4 plastic oilers set: 10€ (https://bit.ly/31MDnWP) >> My review: not expensive, do the job. Perfect.

Tools purchased on CousinsUK - batch 4 for polishing/brushing:

• Sisal dry mop (on the left): 7€ (https://bit.ly/34Yc79V) >> My review: for cutting and removing course scratch marks. 1st stage = use it with Dialux grey.
• Calico stitched mops (the yellow and the white at the top left): 3€ (https://bit.ly/31PwPXq) >> My review: for semi bright finish. 2nd stage = use it with Dialux green.
• Bufflex aluminium oxide FB6 wheel (at the top right): 16€ (https://bit.ly/3jBYaCM) >> My review: for matt or satin finishing. Works well but not easy to handle. You have to practice.
• Swansdown mop (the white on the right): 7€ (https://bit.ly/2DjoSjY) >> My review: for high standard mirror finish. 3rd stage = use it with Dialux blue.
• Cotton wheel (center): 5€ (https://bit.ly/2ENI0XZ) >> My review: for high grade of mirror finishing = use it with Dialux white.
• Dialux polishing compounds: 2/3€ each (https://bit.ly/2YTlnIy)

Tools purchased on Amazon/AliExpress - bench polisher accessories:

• Kapton tape 10mm: 7€ (https://amzn.to/3hQbL92) >> My review: to protect the parts of the watch which must not be polished. Essential.
• Abrasive discs for sanding pad: 12€ (https://amzn.to/2YXj0ED) >> My review: cheap, do the job.
• Sanding pad (M14 screw connector): 9€ (https://amzn.to/3hNWrtC) >> My review: very useful to use abrasive discs on a flat surface (for case back polishing for example).
• 50mm K02-50 chuck and M14 to 8mm adapter: 65€ (https://amzn.to/32FlM2g and https://amzn.to/3lDnAlh) >> My review: useful to hold parts for a rotative polishing.
• M14 to M10 adapter: 6€ (https://bit.ly/3hQllZA) >> My review: to connect the sanding pad to the bench polisher adapter (the black tube above at the right).

Cleaning liquids:

• "Essence F": 4€ for 1 liter (https://bit.ly/3jBvfyw) >> My review: a degreaser for cleaning stage 1. French cheap equivalent of Bergeon One-dip or lighter fluid (Zippo).
• Elma red 1/9: 26€ for 1 liter (https://bit.ly/2YTizLw) >> My review: cleaning stage 2. The less expensive solution for ultrasonic cleaning, but water-based.
• Isopropanol (99% alcohol): 15€ for 1 liter (https://amzn.to/2QMQvVE) >> My review: cleaning stage 3. Works very well and dry parts. Warning: dissolve shellac, don't put the balance wheel or the pallet fork into this!

Timegrapher Weishi n°1900: 120€ on AliExpress (https://bit.ly/357apmX) >> My review: Essential, of course!

Chinese waterproofing tester: 140€ on AliExpress (https://bit.ly/2QGYi7s) >> My review: very good alternative to the expensive Bergeon 5555/98 tester. Works very well. I recommend.

Chinese ultrasonic cleaner: 95€ on AliExpress (https://bit.ly/32Fm7SA) >> My review: this one is a great one.
> 180w = it heats up very quickly.
> 3,2L = a good capacity to host all the movement parts at the same time.

Chinese bench polisher and accessories: 47€ on AliExpress (https://bit.ly/2DkIggD) >> My review: Worth the investment. This little baby rocks!
I made this workplan with a wooden board and a plastic box.

24 compartments box: 11€ on Amazon (https://amzn.to/2YUGGJQ) >> My review: every time someone asks me: "How do you remember where parts fit into the movement that you dismantled?". This box is a part of the answer (taking photos is the other part). Be rigorous.

To be continued...

 

[Logixa]

love it Ex-ki !

1 suggestion, replace the D5 with HP1300 for eta movements and HP1000 for rolex movements. That D5 dries up quitted fast and leaves a shitload of residue. HP is very expensive but its well worth it!
Ad Molykote DX as grease for all metal to metal parts. From experience, it works better than 9504 on the daytona 4130 movements

I personally have replaced all those barrel wall greases with Kluber P125 chronogrease. never had a problem, works excellent on all metal types of barrels!

Great post!

 

[Ex-ki]

love it Ex-ki !

1 suggestion, replace the D5 with HP1300 for eta movements and HP1000 for rolex movements. That D5 dries up quitted fast and leaves a shitload of residue. HP is very expensive but its well worth it!
Ad Molykote DX as grease for all metal to metal parts. From experience, it works better than 9504 on the daytona 4130 movements

I personally have replaced all those barrel wall greases with Kluber P125 chronogrease. never had a problem, works excellent on all metal types of barrels!

Great post!

Thank you very much for your advises! This is awesome.

I've heard about HP1300 but I didn’t know it was an alternative for D5. It's quite expensive, I see that!
Never heard of Molykote and Kluber but I'll take a look at these too

As you will see very soon, I'm a total beginner in watchmaking. I started with the service of a ST36/6497 clone movement, then an ETA 2836-2. For chronographs I'm going to have to practice more and learn more skills. I hope I can get my hands on them very soon as well.

 

[bfiuza]

Very nice!

See the youtube watch repair channel. Helps a lot.



Enviado de meu SM-G975F usando o Tapatalk

 

[DD60]

Very informative and well photographed - your personal evaluation of each tool is a great way to educate others on usability and value.
Thank you for your time and detail for this useful contribution to the community.

Job well done!

 

[mrsullivan]

Excellent post vraiment, en favoris direct merci.

And now let's go back to english...
Very usefull tools indeed, I have more infos on the ones I miss today. Giving a feedback of what they're used for and the quality each is really nice, thank you.

Regarding crystal press I prefer the screw-on vertical ones, as I find they allow a better pressure action, and make the crystals to sit really even in the cases.

Keep on going!

Envoyé de mon ELE-L29 en utilisant Tapatalk

 

[hanski]

Great post! You inspired me to spend way too much money on some lubricants I’ve been slow to buy - HP1000, Episurf-neo, Lubeta v105, & Lubeta v106 - smh this is an expensive hobby.

 

[Ex-ki]

See the youtube watch repair channel. Helps a lot.

Thank you! Sure, I know Mark Lovick's Youtube channel by heart

I also follow these other Youtube channels if you want to take a look, very instructives:

• Wristwatch Revival: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCD80T1s2Za4K682CQDGwEKQ
• Red Dead Restoration: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCci1MUB7x7yRkwgqIFpD7WA
• The Watch Doctor: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCKVQ_oI1Yg7x9TZwfzDmLJQ
• Nekkid Watchmaker: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCSJ7LRO4GaHZdzowk2-7hJw
• Master Watchmaker: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCvYdh0ITL1KyPMmHD84kwXw
• Magic of Wheels: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCvAf6zeSd3lQ3gUvmyV00Ag

 

[Ex-ki]

Excellent post vraiment, en favoris direct merci.

Regarding crystal press I prefer the screw-on vertical ones, as I find they allow a better pressure action, and make the crystals to sit really even in the cases.

Merci compatriote !

I bought the crystal press which provides the best value for money regarding my budget, but you're right, screw-on vertical press are better.
Maybe one of my future purchases

 

[Timewellspent]

Very nice, wish you luck I am also getting into modding and servicing myself as another hobby.

 

[Dr Fun Socks]

Merci compatriote !

I bought the crystal press which provides the best value for money regarding my budget, but you're right, screw-on vertical press are better.
Maybe one of my future purchases

I get a lot of my tools from this guy on ali. Generally really good quality, especially for the money. Got this exact press and the quality really is great. Nice thread though, i have a lot of tools similar to you my feelings are pretty similar. The seller with the press also has a set of mainspring winders, no idea if theyre better than the ones your having issues with but they work well enough for me.

Only issue i found is the dont have opposite winding capabilities, but just transfer the wound 2824 spring into a different hole to flip it before putting it back into the barrel.

￡39.52 | Screw Type Case Capping Machine Tool High Precision Watch Press Machine For Watchmaker Maintenance
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mq98xp9

 

[Ex-ki]

I get a lot of my tools from this guy on ali. Generally really good quality, especially for the money. Got this exact press and the quality really is great. Nice thread though, i have a lot of tools similar to you my feelings are pretty similar. The seller with the press also has a set of mainspring winders, no idea if theyre better than the ones your having issues with but they work well enough for me.

Only issue i found is the dont have opposite winding capabilities, but just transfer the wound 2824 spring into a different hole to flip it before putting it back into the barrel.

￡39.52 | Screw Type Case Capping Machine Tool High Precision Watch Press Machine For Watchmaker Maintenance
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mq98xp9

I've read some reviews on Watch Repair Talk forum and apparently the best budget mainspring winders set is the one which is sold by CousinsUK: https://www.cousinsuk.com/sku/details/mainspring-winders/m56903
It has steel made arbors, while the set I bought has brass arbors which are more fragile.
This set should correspond to the one you bought on Ali.

I think I'll go directly for a Bergeon as CousinsUK sells it by spare parts. I will take the right hand handle (30082-M) and an ETA 2824.2, 2834.2, 2836.2 winder to start.

I'm also looking to buy this bezel remover tool which has good reviews on Watch Repair Talk forum: https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/4000164603356.html

Has anyone here tested it?

 

[Dr Fun Socks]

Ex-ki yeah thats the exact same set he sells and i got but cousins charge over twice as much (£129+vat vs £61). It works fine for me!
￡61.65 | repair tools Watch Mainspring Winder Replacement Barrels for 3135/2892/2824/7750/2671/2000/8500/C07111/2235/8200 movement
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mK09XFD

the arbours are steel and honestly i think its cracking value.

I think kj2020 has a similar bezel remover that he says is good, looks well built. For the money its worth a go!

 

[Ex-ki]

Alright! Thank you very much Dr Fun Socks

 

[heska]

Super utile, merci!

What do you think of Selfor?

 

[Ex-ki]

Super utile, merci!

What do you think of Selfor?

Selfor is a good store in Paris to buy essential tools but their prices for more advanced tools are way too high.
I bought also cheap Miyota movements at the shop. For this kind of purchase it's convenient to go directly to the store rather than ordering on internet and have to wait for the delivery.
But they are 20/30% more expensive than CousinsUK on movements too.

 

[heska]

Ok thanks! I'll pay a visit when i have sometimes. It's always cool to have a direct contact with the vendor (and obviously saving on shipping!)