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Discussion: Homage Watches – What’s Your Take?

sanflex

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I'd argue inspiration is one thing and completely copying to sell an all but identical product at a far lower price is another.

Maybe I should have worded it better, of course there are Swiss watches that are still just copies of other watches.
But generally there is a difference, a Monta Ocean King is a true Submariner homage, everyone who has one really wants a Submariner, a Pagani Design PD-1639 is just a cheap rip off.
I see what you're saying, but I think the distinction between a "true homage" and a "cheap rip off" often comes down to subjective perception and price point rather than the actual design process.

Let's take the Monta Ocean King as an example. It’s clearly a well-crafted watch, and yes, it’s a homage to the Submariner. But at the end of the day, it’s still heavily inspired by the Submariner’s design. The main difference is that Monta positions itself as a premium brand with higher quality materials and craftsmanship, which justifies the higher price tag. But does that make it fundamentally different from Pagani Design, which is aiming to offer a similar look at a more accessible price point? Both are catering to people who admire the Submariner but are looking for alternatives due to different budget constraints.

When it comes to the argument about copying versus inspiration, it’s worth noting that many luxury watch brands have also engaged in similar practices. The watch industry is built on evolving designs, where one brand’s success often influences others. For example, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and Omega Seamaster 300 both emerged in the 1950s with remarkably similar designs. Both are now considered iconic, yet one could argue that they were "copying" each other at the time.

The point is, "inspiration" and "copying" are often part of the same spectrum, and the watch world has always been full of these blurred lines. Whether it’s a Monta or a Pagani, both are creating watches that pay homage to iconic designs, just at different price points and with different levels of quality.

At the end of the day, everyone is free to choose what they want to wear, and I don’t judge anyone for their preferences. I’m also not against your argument—there’s definitely merit to it. We all have different tastes and budgets, and that’s what makes the watch community so diverse and interesting.
 

sanflex

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This.
All the "clone" homages I had felt like a bad replica. It's like replicating a Louis Vuitton (or any other fashion brand) cheaply by misreporting its name.
I understand where you're coming from. Some clone homages can definitely feel like a poor attempt at replicating a luxury item, almost like a knockoff with a slightly altered name. However, I think the key difference lies in the intent and execution.

A good homage isn’t trying to deceive anyone or pass itself off as the original—it’s more about celebrating a design and making it accessible to a wider audience. Sure, some homages might miss the mark in terms of quality or feel, but others can offer a well-made alternative for those who appreciate the style but don’t want to—or can’t—spend the money on the original.

It really comes down to the specific homage and what the wearer values. Some might prefer the authenticity of a higher-end homage like Monta, Baltic, Devosa, Steinhart, while others might be happy with a more affordable option like Pagani Design. Ultimately, it’s about what feels right for the individual, and everyone’s threshold for quality and authenticity is different.
 
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Cubby

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Homage watches are cheap copies that flaunt the grey areas in IP, Trademark and Copyright law.
The areas are so grey that the watch manufacturers could spend millions in legal costs and have no guarantee that they would win. This would then set president and then any Tom Dick and Harry would be able to homage their watches. Better they ignore them and tell people that it’s the best form of flaterry but don’t put on a name or logo-on them, that changes the legal status.
 
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F.Romano

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I understand where you're coming from. Some clone homages can definitely feel like a poor attempt at replicating a luxury item, almost like a knockoff with a slightly altered name. However, I think the key difference lies in the intent and execution.

A good homage isn’t trying to deceive anyone or pass itself off as the original—it’s more about celebrating a design and making it accessible to a wider audience. Sure, some homages might miss the mark in terms of quality or feel, but others can offer a well-made alternative for those who appreciate the style but don’t want to—or can’t—spend the money on the original.

It really comes down to the specific homage and what the wearer values. Some might prefer the authenticity of a higher-end homage like Monta, Baltic, Devosa, Steinhart, while others might be happy with a more affordable option like Pagani Design. Ultimately, it’s about what feels right for the individual, and everyone’s threshold for quality and authenticity is different.
I understand and agree with your point.
Watches that hold historical significance and cultural impact have undeniably shaped the design of future timepieces, often made to tribute them by reshaping the style and expressing the single watchmaker interpretation.
However, when it comes to homage watches, I've noticed that people often associate the term with semi-clones of questionable quality. These replicas, can still serve the purpose of helping people decide if they truly like a particular style or design when seen in person without spending thousands. Unfortunately, this association has sometimes given the term 'homage' a bit of a negative connotation.
 
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TheBigJS

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I understand and agree with your point.
Watches that hold historical significance and cultural impact have undeniably shaped the design of future timepieces, often made to tribute them by reshaping the style and expressing the single watchmaker interpretation.
However, when it comes to homage watches, I've noticed that people often associate the term with semi-clones of questionable quality. These replicas, can still serve the purpose of helping people decide if they truly like a particular style or design when seen in person without spending thousands. Unfortunately, this association has sometimes given the term 'homage' a bit of a negative connotation.
Homage is not the right word for most watches Pagani Design, San Martin etc make. Copy is the right word.
A homage take inspiration from a design, it's not a flat out copy.

At least change the hands and don't replicate the exact dial/bezel colour and bracelet/clasp style.
Bloody Pagani links fit Rolex bracelets!
 
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Ralphista

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Homage is not the right word for most watches Pagani Design, San Martin etc make. Copy is the right word.
A homage take inspiration from a design, it's not a flat out copy.

At least change the hands and don't replicate the exact dial/bezel colour and bracelet/clasp style.
Bloody Pagani links fit Rolex bracelets!
Hi, on Pagani Design and San Martin, same sellers on AliExpress realize Tudor and other replicas , they are only legal bases to improve, and after, build replicas . I know certainly this fact in my experience . Go with God, bro .
 

Ralphista

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Hi, on Pagani Design and San Martin, same sellers on AliExpress realize Tudor and other replicas , they are only legal bases to improve, and after, build replicas . I know certainly this fact in my experience . Go with God, bro .
In fact, when and if you contact them they write : “ Do you want it with …… logos ? No problem, send a WhatsApp message at +86 ……… and we accord … proofed proof …
 

Dohdoh

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Interesting thread! Having read a few books about watch-history, tells me that back then all the brands shared similar designs... From the 50s on. Rolex with their oyster cases became state of the art and I like to compare it with the automotive industry. Ford's with grills that look like Aston Martin's, same engines through various car brands (eta in watches for example) I think it's fine to have Hommage watches vs reps as it shows a little bit of "respect" to the initial brands in public to not buy a "fake" watch.
 

Cubby

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Interesting thread! Having read a few books about watch-history, tells me that back then all the brands shared similar designs... From the 50s on. Rolex with their oyster cases became state of the art and I like to compare it with the automotive industry. Ford's with grills that look like Aston Martin's, same engines through various car brands (eta in watches for example) I think it's fine to have Hommage watches vs reps as it shows a little bit of "respect" to the initial brands in public to not buy a "fake" watch.
You are correct , every watch is basically the same, has 3 hands, case and a movement. The difference is the design and more importantly the brand name.These companies are really selling their brand before the watch, if a factory can build a rep and sell it through a dealer to us for 500 bucks, what sort of profit are the gen manufacturers making on a watch? The only reason a homage watch can be sold is they don’t put that brand name on it, I am not so sure that it’s any less a fake than a rep, just fits into a grey area in law. For me I would rather have a good rep anyday.
 

Karbon74

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For those interested by the difference between a utility patent and a design patent



 
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TheBigJS

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2020 Panerai won their case and the watch on the right was deemed a counterfeit and illegal.

 
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Dohdoh

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You are correct , every watch is basically the same, has 3 hands, case and a movement. The difference is the design and more importantly the brand name.These companies are really selling their brand before the watch, if a factory can build a rep and sell it through a dealer to us for 500 bucks, what sort of profit are the gen manufacturers making on a watch? The only reason a homage watch can be sold is they don’t put that brand name on it, I am not so sure that it’s any less a fake than a rep, just fits into a grey area in law. For me I would rather have a good rep anyday.
To me, it depends on the model... I have 2 vintage rolexes and lost interest in the brand as there are too many people wearing them - be it Gen or rep... Sounds silly, I know but I hope you get my message 😅 I dive now more into other brands that are not that present. In my opinion a watch should also match your lifestyle. I wouldn't feel comfortable around my friends and family wearing a 300K watch, but a nice Hommage of this watch would underline my appreciation of the "original" model, brand and design.
 

Dave2302

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Gen vs Rep vs Homage Simplified

Gen is (obviously) legal.

Rep is not legal if the manufacturer holds copyrights to their branding and model names marked upon the item etc.

Homage will have no copyrighted items on it, but it is perfectly legal because all watches basically consist of case movement hands etc etc.

Grey areas would arise on certain patents for stuff like the "Ring Lock System" for example), on some Rolex, but AFAIK patents for items like this expire after a period, when then others can copy it.

Note I am not a lawyer, and I could be wrong, this is just IMHO ;)
 

Cubby

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Gen vs Rep vs Homage Simplified

Gen is (obviously) legal.

Rep is not legal if the manufacturer holds copyrights to their branding and model names marked upon the item etc.

Homage will have no copyrighted items on it, but it is perfectly legal because all watches basically consist of case movement hands etc etc.

Grey areas would arise on certain patents for stuff like the "Ring Lock System" for example), on some Rolex, but AFAIK patents for items like this expire after a period, when then others can copy it.

Note I am not a lawyer, and I could be wrong, this is just IMHO ;)
100% Correct Dave
 

Reaps

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Here was a model I wish I had gotten, its the only non-replica I'm interested in, the SN0111-T, a 40mm Seadweller Chinese "homage",

but..... a watch that is in the sub $350 category with on the fly adjustment, good lume, that level of finishing/polishing on titanium (even electroplated to make it less "grey"), full bracelet, helium escape valve, 300m WR, PT5000 watch. I don't think replicas can even match the price per value.

Ok the branding is not my favorite but still gotta give credit where it's due.