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Daytona Clasp Change to add Glidelock

Matthew56544

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One of the things I missed when wearing the Daytona is the lack of glidelock, the easy fit is OK but I get so much variation in wrist size I bought a replacement 7CD glidelock clasp from Steve @ theonewatches.

The outer facing portion of the clasp in slightly longer than the original, the inner facing that contacts the wrist is the same length, has Au750 white gold markings. Yes it's less even less genuine now but much prefer having the glidelock.

hOAI3k.jpeg






 

Matthew56544

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Also went for the Oysterflex with SEL at the same time, although I prefer the standard bracelet so that strap hasn't had any wrist time.
 

KJ2020

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Glidelock is one of the best inventions Rolex has ever made. I've been using one on my gen 16710 since I got into reps 6 years ago. Period correctness be dammed. I suffered for decades with an uncomfortable binding and nearly always ill-fitting bracelet due to the clasp.

16031834706472.jpg


BTW if you didn't know all current Rolex models that come with an Oysterflex strap (Daytona, Yacht Master and Sky-Dweller) now have a shortened Glidelock clasp. There are some factories that have already implemented this into their reps, in the Daytona at least.
 
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Matthew56544

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Glidelock is one of the best inventions Rolex has ever made. I've been using one on my gen 16710 since I got into reps 6 years ago. Period correctness be dammed. I suffered for decades with an uncomfortable binding and nearly always ill-fitting bracelet due to the clasp.

16031834706472.jpg


BTW if you didn't know all current Rolex models that come with an Oysterflex strap (Daytona, Yacht Master and Sky-Dweller) now have a shortened Glidelock clasp. There are some factories that have already implemented this into their reps, in the Daytona at least.
Do you know if clean have a shorter version of the glidelock?
 

Db9s

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It’s easy to find these on aliexpress with the logo for a lot cheaper. Does the job.

I don’t think you should be bothered with 100% quality on Aliexpress for an already non-existent combo. But that’s just me.
 

Matthew56544

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Does the shorter one have less adjustment? The one that I have has 7 indents.
 

aHero

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The QF 126519 I have came with Oysterflex and Glidelock but the Glidelock is long so I had to order a shorter Oysterflex strap than usual.
 

KJ2020

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Does the shorter one have less adjustment? The one that I have has 7 indents.
Yes there are fewer adjustment detents on the Oysterflex Glidelocks, I think 5. That should be enough if you choose the right length strap pieces.
 

haze3715

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Glidelock is one of the best inventions Rolex has ever made. I've been using one on my gen 16710 since I got into reps 6 years ago. Period correctness be dammed. I suffered for decades with an uncomfortable binding and nearly always ill-fitting bracelet due to the clasp.

16031834706472.jpg


BTW if you didn't know all current Rolex models that come with an Oysterflex strap (Daytona, Yacht Master and Sky-Dweller) now have a shortened Glidelock clasp. There are some factories that have already implemented this into their reps, in the Daytona at least.
Interesting! I just picked up a BP 16710 - I tried adding a glidelock from a VSF 116610 but it didn’t quite fit right on the BP Oyster bracelet… there’s a lot of wiggle / play, how did you do it?
 

Matthew56544

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Interesting! I just picked up a BP 16710 - I tried adding a glidelock from a VSF 116610 but it didn’t quite fit right on the BP Oyster bracelet… there’s a lot of wiggle / play, how did you do it?

I believe there are different widths at the clasp depending on model.
 

KJ2020

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Interesting! I just picked up a BP 16710 - I tried adding a glidelock from a VSF 116610 but it didn’t quite fit right on the BP Oyster bracelet… there’s a lot of wiggle / play, how did you do it?
Both 5 and 6 digit gen (116x) model Rolex GMT and Sub bracelet links are (nominally) going to be 20mm at the lugs and 16mm at the clasp. Ofc the links have a taper to them so it's about 15.5mm at the bottom of the last link. Then the center part of the bottom link is 9mm.

126x Subs, Sea-Dwellers and DSSDs are bigger so that's a separate category.

So on paper a 5 digit bracelet should fit in a 6 digit (116x) Glidelock clasp.

This is how a BP 116x Sub Glidelock clasp fits around my gen 5 digit bracelet. It could not be a better fit even with a link inside the clasp.

hO4On2.jpeg


hO4Iht.jpeg


Here are some various rep (and one gen) bracelet widths, measured at the bottom of the last link.
hOwbKP.jpeg


hOwSNJ.jpeg


Gen
hOwx9W.jpeg


hOwGBo.jpeg


Given these differences, it's easy to see why some combos would be better than others. More than once I have had to sand down a bottom link's sides so it would fit into a clasp. Many times this was a 5 digit rep bracelet going into a different factory 5 digit rep clasp. Chalk it up to rep factory machining tolerances.

Unfortunately if the bottom link is too narrow for the clasp you really have no option to mod it for a better fit. You could try a wider bottom link if you have one, and it doesn't dwarf the link above it. Removable links are slightly narrower than non-removable ones so if there is only one removable link, you could likely get away with this swap. Try swapping the VSF bottom link onto the BP bracelet.
 
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haze3715

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Both 5 and 6 digit gen (116x) model Rolex GMT and Sub bracelet links are (nominally) going to be 20mm at the lugs and 16mm at the clasp. Ofc the links have a taper to them so it's about 15.5mm at the bottom of the last link. Then the center part of the bottom link is 9mm.

126x Subs, Sea-Dwellers and DSSDs are bigger so that's a separate category.

So on paper a 5 digit bracelet should fit in a 6 digit (116x) Glidelock clasp.

This is how a BP 116x Sub Glidelock clasp fits around my gen 5 digit bracelet. It could not be a better fit even with a link inside the clasp.

hO4On2.jpeg


hO4Iht.jpeg


Here are some various rep (and one gen) bracelet widths, measured at the bottom of the last link.
hOwbKP.jpeg


hOwSNJ.jpeg


Gen
hOwx9W.jpeg


hOwGBo.jpeg


Given these differences, it's easy to see why some combos would be better than others. More than once I have had to sand down a bottom link's sides so it would fit into a clasp. Many times this was a 5 digit rep bracelet going into a different factory 5 digit rep clasp. Chalk it up to rep factory machining tolerances.

Unfortunately if the bottom link is too narrow for the clasp you really have no option to mod it for a better fit. You could try a wider bottom link if you have one, and it doesn't dwarf the link above it. Removable links are slightly narrower than non-removable ones so if there is only one removable link, you could likely get away with this swap. Try swapping the VSF bottom link onto the BP bracelet.
Thanks for the detailed reply and measurements! This is where I find the wiggle between the bracelet and the clasp - on the 6 o’clock side where the hollow links center links meet the glidelock.

You can see the rather large gap. And because the center links are hollow, the screw pin from the clasp can wiggles within the mid link of the BP bracelet.



Solution: use a 6-digit link to act as an “adapter” and between the bracelet and clasp. Solved the bracelet wiggle.

But not so fast! I wear the Oyster w/ 7 & 5 links. The BP bracelet has 5 permanent links. So unless I pull apart one of the permanent links I’m stuck.

Stupid 6.5” wrist. So… back to square 1.

I tried swapping the BP bracelet for a Ginault OR2 bracelet thinking a 5 digit bracelet should be a near perfect fit, but the end links don’t fit properly. Almost!
 

KJ2020

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Thanks for the detailed reply and measurements! This is where I find the wiggle between the bracelet and the clasp - on the 6 o’clock side where the hollow links center links meet the glidelock.

You can see the rather large gap. And because the center links are hollow, the screw pin from the clasp can wiggles within the mid link of the BP bracelet.



Solution: use a 6-digit link to act as an “adapter” and between the bracelet and clasp. Solved the bracelet wiggle.

But not so fast! I wear the Oyster w/ 7 & 5 links. The BP bracelet has 5 permanent links. So unless I pull apart one of the permanent links I’m stuck.

Stupid 6.5” wrist. So… back to square 1.

I tried swapping the BP bracelet for a Ginault OR2 bracelet thinking a 5 digit bracelet should be a near perfect fit, but the end links don’t fit properly. Almost!
There are ofc ways to remedy your issue. Separating a "permanent" link is not difficult, then you could swap in a solid link in place of the hollow one. It would mean using a bracelet puller, which I know not everyone has and they are around $150 last time I checked.

SEL Swap - DIY

So I know that's overkill for a single issue but how about filling up the hollow link yourself? I never say die when it comes to making something work. I use BSI 30 min slow cure epoxy for so many things rep related it's crazy. It's great stuff.

With the Glidelock removed, you can stuff some wadding material like tiny squares or strips of a thin cleaning cloth into the hollow space. You could also use paper, cotton ball fluff or dental floss etc. Cram it really tight then put the bottom link screw in place where it goes and cram more wadding in. Leave about 2mm open on both outer sides just above the link screw.

Next, fill that 2mm open space on one side with epoxy then cover the fill with a narrow strip of clear Scotch tape. Repeat on the other side after prodding the wadding some to make sure the other side stays full. Wait a few minutes for the epoxy to ooze into the wadding on the second side and add some more to level it off. Then tape off the second side.

Turn the link screw in place carefully a few times during the first 30 minutes so it doesn't get cured in. After the epoxy is pretty firm, pull the link screw out leaving the space to harden open. Clean off any excess epoxy with alcohol while uncured or Acetone after it's cured. The Scotch tape can remain in place, it will eventually wear off but the epoxy behind it will remain.

You could also just fill the whole link hollow with epoxy. It can even be done incrementally, a third or half at a time, allowing for cures in between. You can fill the whole thing up and not bother with the link screw at all. Then use a micro drill bit in a pin vise to make a hole for it through the cured epoxy. There's always a way!

Check out what I did with epoxy on springbar tips in the thread below.

A modernized vintage Air King
 
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Fabulously

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BTW if you didn't know all current Rolex models that come with an Oysterflex strap (Daytona, Yacht Master and Sky-Dweller) now have a shortened Glidelock clasp. There are some factories that have already implemented this into their reps, in the Daytona at least.

This is super interesting! I just checked and the new and shorter Glidelock is only available on precious metal models. Does anybody know whether the outer and inner dimensions of these new Glidelock clasps would also be suitable for older models (bracelet and Oysterflex)?

The reason I am asking is that at least the Sky Dweller uses a 21mm or even 22mm lug width...

 

Fabulously

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BTW if you didn't know all current Rolex models that come with an Oysterflex strap (Daytona, Yacht Master and Sky-Dweller) now have a shortened Glidelock clasp. There are some factories that have already implemented this into their reps, in the Daytona at least.
PS: And would you know which factory already makes those? Would be a great upgrade to the Easylink extensions I have...

Best,
Fab
 

Fabulously

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PPS: I just checked with CTime and the new Clean 12 series Daytonas have them - and they can be bought separately... :D
 
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KJ2020

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This is super interesting! I just checked and the new and shorter Glidelock is only available on precious metal models.
This is because only PM models can come with an Oysterflex.

Does anybody know whether the outer and inner dimensions of these new Glidelock clasps would also be suitable for older models (bracelet and Oysterflex)?
If you get one for the Daytona it should fit - A 20mm lug width bracelet will have a 9mm center link on the bottom link. This the same as the Oysterflex strap end protrusion that fits the link screw for the clasp.

The reason I am asking is that at least the Sky Dweller uses a 21mm or even 22mm lug width...
Only older Sky-Dwellers (pre-2018) had 21mm lug widths amd none of these had Glidelocks. All models since then have 22mm lug widths. On these newer models, the bottom center link width is 9.5mm, so no go there.

Sky-Dweller lug widths
 
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Fabulously

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Only older Sky-Dwellers (pre-2018) had 21mm lug widths amd none of these had Glidelocks. All models since then have 22mm lug widths. On these newer models, the bottom center link width is 9.5mm, so no go there.

Sky-Dweller lug widths
Thanks for this info - I was not eloquent enough to google that myself... :D
 

KJ2020

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Thanks for this info - I was not eloquent enough to google that myself... :D
You won't find it on Google. That linked thread took considerable research, including multiple phone calls to ADs in different locales. One AD rep who I was able to convince to measure an actual lug width came back with "Well it varies depending on where you measure it. It can be about 5mm or about 2mm." Say WHAT!? Think about that for a minute, lol.

There are many sites, some very reputable, that have wrong info posted about the Sky-Dweller lug widths. Even sites that sell aftermarket straps and bracelets. I messaged a few with corrections, one prominent site thanked me and changed their data.

AFAIK Rolex never advertised the case change in 2017 that included the lug width increase. So no wonder it isn't widely known. The newer cases are a really nice improvement IMO. No contest for me.

Old
KTsMrS.jpeg


New
KTsXmo.jpeg


KTsvHL.jpeg
 
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