Ok so fair warning i'm not a pro but wanted to explain my observations and processes to help others looking for a upgrade on their GRNR.
- First observation is that the V3 xtals are much better than prior generations and it's not a massive upgrade like it once was. I still think there is a noticeable bump in clarity and it's worth doing but I don't think it's night/day like it used to be.
- V3 Datewheel font is larger/thicker than V2's (you can see in the BLRO vs. GRNR side by side) Pepsi is V2 3285.
- More play in the bezel click side to side. More "slop" in it. V2's feel better IMO and seem to have tighter tolerances.
- 2.70 Clark Gasket is the right thickness with the 7035 xtal. 2.85's was too much and has that xtal sitting too high. I think the older B25-295-CAR-C1 xtals + 2.85 Clark Gasket is the right pairing (pictured on Pepsi).
Items Needed:
- Clark 2.70 295 Gasket (eBay)
- B25 7035-J1 Rolex Crystal
- Cape Cod Polishing Cloth
- Baby Oil
Initial comparison of magnifcation and Datewheel fonts. (Pepsi V2 3285, B295 CAR xtal vs Stock CF GRNR)
Stock Height CF GRNR V3:
B25 7035-J1 + 2.70 Gasket Height:
Polished Rehaut on CF Pepsi
Stock Rehaut on CF GRNR
Gen Rehaut on VTNR
Polished Rehuat on CF GRNR. Accomplished with Cape Cod Cloth. I did 60, 180 degree passes with my finger applying pressure on the rehaut with the cloth (the rotated to other half of rehaut and repeated so all of the surface recieved 60 passes. The Pepsi example above I did 30 passes but I think it wasn't quite enough. I think 60 passes and it's pretty close to Gen reflections IMO. This is a really simple mod and I think drastically improves the pop of the watch. The unpolished rehaut is an instant fairly noticealbe tell you can't unsee when you know to look for it IMO.
Stock height ceramic insert (installed with stock CF 3m tape).
Soak for 2 hours in isopropal alcohol and it will pop right out. If it doesn't instantly release just leave it a bit longer. DONT FORCE IT. You can crack them in half with the pressure of your thumb if it's not ready to release. I think this is much safer than apply heat with a gun or trying to claw it out with some tool/pick.
Timed at 2 hours and it will leave the left over ring easily removeable with tweezers intact. Clean up any excess residue with IPA.
Installed with GS Hypo Cement. Thin ring around the outside edge is enough. Very forgiving to align properly when bezel reinstalled before it sets up. Sits at same height as with the 3M ring IMO. Not like it's noticeably sunk in.
While the caseback is off good time to re-regulate from it's overseas journey being tossed around like a football. Be super gentle. Almost imperceptable movements can bump it +/- 60 secs/day.
Second biggest improvement to the watch is a baby oil bath. I put it in a 20.00 sonic cleaner and leave overnight (running sonic function for 5 min/time probably a total of 30 minutes). Clean it in a bowl with dish detergent and warm water and a tooth brush after. Spray/wipe down with IPA until clean. This makes it buttery smooth and silent. The bracelet is so much of the experience and comfort of wearning the watch and this is a must do IMO. For like 2 bucks for some baby oil it's a no brainer.
Even if you don't do the xtal upgrade, the rehaut polish and oiling of the bracelet should cost you less than 10 bucks and will drastically improve the wearability and aesthetics and is fairly straight forward if you're looking for an easy project to dip your toes into "watchmaking".
My other Pepsi and Batgirl build posts for those looking for additional information:
Also in the club of waiting for the root beer 126711 DD3285 on an oyster bracelet. Been a couple months now… but I would rather wait another couple months if that’s what it takes to get an improved batch. I'm waiting too.... Anybody knows how long it'll take?
forum.replica-watch.info
Hope this helps!
