Cartel vs. Vietnam 1675 - What an Extra $1,200 Gets You (Pic Heavy)

[LEBLANC]

Thanks for sharing. The vietnamese's CG makes a lot of difference in how the watch looks.

 

[MJH89]

How easy is it to reduce the thickness of the BP case to bring it closer to that of gen/viet spec? Is it the sort of work which could be achieved by hand sanding or is it a cutting machine job? I guess tripdog would be able to answer.

I'm sure I remember seeing a thread a while back about reshaping the case but can't remember how it was done.

 

[tripdog]

How easy is it to reduce the thickness of the BP case to bring it closer to that of gen/viet spec? Is it the sort of work which could be achieved by hand sanding or is it a cutting machine job? I guess tripdog would be able to answer.

I'm sure I remember seeing a thread a while back about reshaping the case but can't remember how it was done.

You need a lathe to do it correctly.

 

[MJH89]

So you essentially end up milling it away then.

 

[tripdog]

So you essentially end up milling it away then.

No, turning it away - in milling the object generally remains stationary whilst the tool turns, in turning the tool remains stationary and the object turns.

 

[Goldenboy74]

tripdog Fastman119 Forgive the question two years late, but is the Viernam case 42mm?

 

[p0pperini]

tripdog Fastman119 Forgive the question two years late, but is the Viernam case 42mm?

The 1675 is a 39 or 40mm watch (depending on what specs you read online). The Vietnam case is going to be near as dammit exactly the same size as gen. I have a Milk case 1675 and several Cartel (BP) 1675 reps, and they all measure around the same. I just checked a cartel case and it's 39.3mm-ish (it's hard to get a precise measurement without the curve to the crown guards interfering).

 

[Goldenboy74]

The 1675 is a 39 or 40mm watch (depending on what specs you read online). The Vietnam case is going to be near as dammit exactly the same size as gen. I have a Milk case 1675 and several Cartel (BP) 1675 reps, and they all measure around the same. I just checked a cartel case and it's 39.3mm-ish (it's hard to get a precise measurement without the curve to the crown guards interfering).

It seemed strange to me too, but in the spec it is written 42mm

Model : GMT Master
Ref : 1675
Style : New
The Case Fitment : Rolex Caliber: 1560, 1570 (Automatic), And Others Caliber...
Material : Stailess Steel
Diameter : 42 mm
Lug Width : 20 mm
Crown : 5,3 mm ( Not Included)
Tube : Included
Case Back Stamp : 1675 - I.60
Bezel Insert : Pepsi Style
Crystal : Acrylic
Caseback Gaskets : Not Included

Will it be a mistake, or are there also 42mm ones?
You know it is not cheap, I would not want to make a mistake in the purchase...

 

[Goldenboy74]

 

[p0pperini]

It seemed strange to me too, but in the spec it is written 42mm
Will it be a mistake, or are there also 42mm ones?

I’d say it’s either simply a mistake, or the measurement was taken including the crown guards, so their size has been added to the total diameter. If I include the CGs in a measure of my cartel case, it’s about 41.7mm.

There were no other sizes for the gen case, and the VN would not deviate so significantly from gen spec.

 

[Goldenboy74]

I’d say it’s either simply a mistake, or the measurement was taken including the crown guards, so their size has been added to the total diameter. If I include the CGs in a measure of my cartel case, it’s about 41.7mm.

There were no other sizes for the gen case, and the VN would not deviate so significantly from gen spec.

Great so I can proceed with the purchase without fear, thanks.
You seem very experienced, can I contact you privately? So I avoid bothering everyone

 

[p0pperini]

Great so I can proceed with the purchase without fear, thanks.
You seem very experienced, can I contact you privately? So I avoid bothering everyone

Eek! You’re welcome to, but I honestly wouldn’t recommend it. I’m always happy to help but I’m a zillion light years away from being experienced... I posted my comedic efforts to build a 1675 based on Milk’s case here:

https://forum.replica-watch.info/forum/vintage-watches/8504111-project-rwi-raffle-win-a-1675-build

There was a lot of good advice and discussion posted by other members along the way, so you might find it interesting too.

 

[Goldenboy74]

Eek! You’re welcome to, but I honestly wouldn’t recommend it. I’m always happy to help but I’m a zillion light years away from being experienced... I posted my comedic efforts to build a 1675 based on Milk’s case here:

https://forum.replica-watch.info/forum/vintage-watches/8504111-project-rwi-raffle-win-a-1675-build

There was a lot of good advice and discussion posted by other members along the way, so you might find it interesting too.

thank you

 

[gsanchez034]

I’ve been looking to get a 1675 gmt that looks like the cartel. I’m just curious as to who can mod this gmt watch, specifically the cartel case since I don’t plan on going too over board with the build. How much would it cost for a build. Thanks

 

[Catsack]

Brilliant post, especially for a newbie like me! :thumbsup:

 

[Artking47]

Great post for those looking to
build a 1675 like me. Guess you really do get what you pay for.

 

[Fastman119]

Reposting due to dead gifs!

While factories can produce near-exact replicas of almost any new, popular watch, there’s an itch with vintage watches that can’t seem to be scratched given the current factory offerings.

When there’s an itch that can’t be scratched… some who are truly insane (*ahem*) take matters into their own hands.

Before discovering this forum, I had begun piecing together Cartel 1675 mods with parts I found online. Right after I finished my final Cartel build, I discovered the Vietnam 1675 existed, and well… the rest is history (RIP wallet).

Here they are, compared below -
Specs:

Cartel:

• Cartel base watch
• Replacement face
• WSO bezel ring
• WSO insert
• Replacement plexi
• Riveted bracelet
• Hand-painted, color-matched hands

(no case re-working, no change to the internal movement)

All in, with labor ~ $550.00

Vietnam:

• Viet case
• Viet dial
• Low beat DG3804B movement
• Handset
• Gen Rolex 116 crystal
• Gen Rolex crown
• Silver DWO
• 7206 riveted bracelet

All in, with labor ~ $1,750.00

So with an extra ~$1,200, what do you really get in return?

Major Differences:

• Case thickness/profile
• Crown size
• Right side profile: crown guards, lug angle, crown guard slope/angle
• Lug length/angles
• Bracelet pinhole size/visibility
• Face depth into case
• Dial quality (subtle, fine-printed enamel, v.s. the thicker, bolder lines. Also crown logo width/placement, but I’m sure this varied throughout the generations)
• Plexi v.s. gen crystal reflectiveness
• GMT hand lume size/hand length
• Case brush finishing
• Bracelet feel/wearable noise (7206 literally feels vintage/gen, even without aging)

First and foremost, I think the most immediately noticeable difference is in the right-hand profile of the watch/crown guards. The crown guards on the Vietnam build (and "gen" 1675) seem to poke out of the profile of the watch, while the cartel mod has a more gradual slope. While the cartel somewhat mimics the very early 1675's with the "eagle beak" crown guards, it still doesn't come quite close to gen.

Another detail that this gif illustrates really well is the difference in dial quality. I'm not quite sure where the pure-white 'modded' dial originates from, but the Vietnam dial is noticeably more refined, with much different sizing/spacing on the GMT writing/crown logo. While the dial has changed quite a few times throughout the 1675's life, the Vietnam dial really has an intricate presence, while the (I'm guessing) non-viet dial definitely has fatter, less detailed print work.

The next most noticeable detail for me is the size/placement/depth of the case holes where the pushpins of the bracelet attached to the watch. The Viet case's push-pins seem to completely fill the case holes, and they're observably bigger than the cartel's. This is also a great illustration of the huge difference in crown size between the gen crown and the cartel crown - you can also see the huge change in overall case thickness between the two #Thicc

Some other, smaller details that I noticed were the slight change in dial depth that comes with the viet case, as well as the length of the GMT hand/the size of the lumed triangle. I'm not sure which is closer to gen, but if I had to put my money on it (which I guess I did), I would figure the longer hand is closer to gen - not to mention the application of the red paint on the longer GMT hand has a much more even, polished finish.

Something else that's easier to notice in person is the change that comes with the gen 116 crystal. The gen 116 crystal really provides a depth/feel of quality to the whole build.

Final details are the Viet case's better brushed finishing and the 7206 riveted bracelet's feel. Obviously, the 7206 bracelet isn't inherently "Vietnam", but damn the bracelet feels 1:1. It sounds it too as it clanks and rattles around - very vintage.

Intangible difference:

What probably surprised me the most about the Vietnam build, was that it didn’t capture the “feel” of the 1675 - it literally was the 1675. There was no feel to capture, it just completely embodied the watch without question: that’s what you’re paying $1,200+ for.

If you’re a fan of the 1675, a cartel build might suffice - but if you truly love the 1675, it’s the kind of watch that you love for it’s minute details, and its the amalgamation of these tiny details that add up to truly produce the watch (for me at least...).

 

[onsight]

@Fastman119 , thank you very much for updating the gifs. And for this post, in general. It's great.