- 10/1/19
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While factories can produce near-exact replicas of almost any new, popular watch, there’s an itch with vintage watches that can’t seem to be scratched given the current factory offerings.
When there’s an itch that can’t be scratched… some who are truly insane (*ahem*) take matters into their own hands.
Before discovering this forum, I had begun piecing together Cartel 1675 mods with parts I found online. Right after I finished my final Cartel build, I discovered the Vietnam 1675 existed, and well… the rest is history (RIP wallet).
Here they are, compared below -
Specs:
Cartel:
All in, with labor ~ $550.00
Vietnam:
So with an extra ~$1,200, what do you really get in return?
Major Differences:
First and foremost, I think the most immediately noticeable difference is in the right-hand profile of the watch/crown guards. The crown guards on the Vietnam build (and "gen" 1675) seem to poke out of the profile of the watch, while the cartel mod has a more gradual slope. While the cartel somewhat mimics the very early 1675's with the "eagle beak" crown guards, it still doesn't come quite close to gen.
Another detail that this gif illustrates really well is the difference in dial quality. I'm not quite sure where the pure-white 'modded' dial originates from, but the Vietnam dial is noticeably more refined, with much different sizing/spacing on the GMT writing/crown logo. While the dial has changed quite a few times throughout the 1675's life, the Vietnam dial really has an intricate presence, while the (I'm guessing) non-viet dial definitely has fatter, less detailed print work.
The next most noticeable detail for me is the size/placement/depth of the case holes where the pushpins of the bracelet attached to the watch. The Viet case's push-pins seem to completely fill the case holes, and they're observably bigger than the cartel's. This is also a great illustration of the huge difference in crown size between the gen crown and the cartel crown - you can also see the huge change in overall case thickness between the two #Thicc
Some other, smaller details that I noticed were the slight change in dial depth that comes with the viet case, as well as the length of the GMT hand/the size of the lumed triangle. I'm not sure which is closer to gen, but if I had to put my money on it (which I guess I did), I would figure the longer hand is closer to gen - not to mention the application of the red paint on the longer GMT hand has a much more even, polished finish.
Something else that's easier to notice in person is the change that comes with the gen 116 crystal. I'm not quite sure if the gen 1675 was ever made with a plastic "plexi" material, but the gen 116 crystal really provides a depth/feel of quality to the whole build.
Final details are the Viet case's better brushed finishing and the 7206 riveted bracelet's feel. Obviously, the 7206 bracelet isn't inherently "Vietnam", but damn the bracelet feels 1:1. It sounds it too as it clanks and rattles around - very vintage.
Intangible difference:
What probably surprised me the most about the Vietnam build, was that it didn’t capture the “feel” of the 1675 - it literally was the 1675. There was no feel to capture, it just completely embodied the watch without question: that’s what you’re paying $1,200+ for.
If you’re a fan of the 1675, a cartel build might suffice - but if you truly love the 1675, it’s the kind of watch that you love for it’s minute details, and its the amalgamation of these tiny details that add up to truly produce the watch (for me at least...).
Glamor shots:
(P.S. while I just bought the watch, the real credit here goes to Tripdog who actually created this mastery - from hand re-luming the hour marker patina to fading the fuchsia insert. Not surprisingly, he didn't disappoint
)
When there’s an itch that can’t be scratched… some who are truly insane (*ahem*) take matters into their own hands.
Before discovering this forum, I had begun piecing together Cartel 1675 mods with parts I found online. Right after I finished my final Cartel build, I discovered the Vietnam 1675 existed, and well… the rest is history (RIP wallet).
Here they are, compared below -
Specs:
Cartel:
- Cartel base watch
- Replacement face
- WSO bezel ring
- WSO insert
- Replacement plexi
- Riveted bracelet
- Hand-painted, color-matched hands
All in, with labor ~ $550.00
Vietnam:
- Viet case
- Viet dial
- Low beat DG3804B movement
- Handset
- Gen Rolex 116 crystal
- Gen Rolex crown
- Silver DWO
- 7206 riveted bracelet
So with an extra ~$1,200, what do you really get in return?
Major Differences:
- Case thickness/profile
- Crown size
- Right side profile: crown guards, lug angle, crown guard slope/angle
- Lug length/angles
- Bracelet pinhole size/visibility
- Face depth into case
- Dial quality (subtle, fine-printed enamel, v.s. the thicker, bolder lines. Also crown logo width/placement, but I’m sure this varied throughout the generations)
- Plexi v.s. gen crystal reflectiveness
- GMT hand lume size/hand length
- Case brush finishing
- Bracelet feel/wearable noise (7206 literally feels vintage/gen, even without aging)
First and foremost, I think the most immediately noticeable difference is in the right-hand profile of the watch/crown guards. The crown guards on the Vietnam build (and "gen" 1675) seem to poke out of the profile of the watch, while the cartel mod has a more gradual slope. While the cartel somewhat mimics the very early 1675's with the "eagle beak" crown guards, it still doesn't come quite close to gen.
Another detail that this gif illustrates really well is the difference in dial quality. I'm not quite sure where the pure-white 'modded' dial originates from, but the Vietnam dial is noticeably more refined, with much different sizing/spacing on the GMT writing/crown logo. While the dial has changed quite a few times throughout the 1675's life, the Vietnam dial really has an intricate presence, while the (I'm guessing) non-viet dial definitely has fatter, less detailed print work.
The next most noticeable detail for me is the size/placement/depth of the case holes where the pushpins of the bracelet attached to the watch. The Viet case's push-pins seem to completely fill the case holes, and they're observably bigger than the cartel's. This is also a great illustration of the huge difference in crown size between the gen crown and the cartel crown - you can also see the huge change in overall case thickness between the two #Thicc
Some other, smaller details that I noticed were the slight change in dial depth that comes with the viet case, as well as the length of the GMT hand/the size of the lumed triangle. I'm not sure which is closer to gen, but if I had to put my money on it (which I guess I did), I would figure the longer hand is closer to gen - not to mention the application of the red paint on the longer GMT hand has a much more even, polished finish.
Something else that's easier to notice in person is the change that comes with the gen 116 crystal. I'm not quite sure if the gen 1675 was ever made with a plastic "plexi" material, but the gen 116 crystal really provides a depth/feel of quality to the whole build.
Final details are the Viet case's better brushed finishing and the 7206 riveted bracelet's feel. Obviously, the 7206 bracelet isn't inherently "Vietnam", but damn the bracelet feels 1:1. It sounds it too as it clanks and rattles around - very vintage.
Intangible difference:
What probably surprised me the most about the Vietnam build, was that it didn’t capture the “feel” of the 1675 - it literally was the 1675. There was no feel to capture, it just completely embodied the watch without question: that’s what you’re paying $1,200+ for.
If you’re a fan of the 1675, a cartel build might suffice - but if you truly love the 1675, it’s the kind of watch that you love for it’s minute details, and its the amalgamation of these tiny details that add up to truly produce the watch (for me at least...).
Glamor shots:
(P.S. while I just bought the watch, the real credit here goes to Tripdog who actually created this mastery - from hand re-luming the hour marker patina to fading the fuchsia insert. Not surprisingly, he didn't disappoint
)
