I prefer the baked. I have ghosted my 2 first bezels with too long in the bleach. the third is spotty. I like the even aging you achieved
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Building a Tudor 9401/0 on the basis of a milk case
- Thread starter matzemedia
- Start date
Repair Eta 2772
This week I received the missing spare part for my movement. The escape wheel is easy to put in. But it is more complex to fix the four gears all at the same time with a plate. One of them is always out of line. All's well that ends well - the movement is running again.
This week I received the missing spare part for my movement. The escape wheel is easy to put in. But it is more complex to fix the four gears all at the same time with a plate. One of them is always out of line. All's well that ends well - the movement is running again.
Dial and movement do not fit
As you have already noticed, things are not going so well with the project. My motivation is also waning a bit. And unfortunately, the next punch in the face is already waiting.
On this picture you can see that the dial at 3 o'clock doesn't match the winding stem. The dial is designed for modern ETA movements like the 2824. My old 2772 movement has the feet shifted a few degrees - I didn't notice at first. However, when it's in the case, it's impossible to miss.
So take off the feet and fix the dial with double-sided tape. That's terrible! Since the feet were no longer stuck in the movement anyway, my best idea.
As you have already noticed, things are not going so well with the project. My motivation is also waning a bit. And unfortunately, the next punch in the face is already waiting.
On this picture you can see that the dial at 3 o'clock doesn't match the winding stem. The dial is designed for modern ETA movements like the 2824. My old 2772 movement has the feet shifted a few degrees - I didn't notice at first. However, when it's in the case, it's impossible to miss.
So take off the feet and fix the dial with double-sided tape. That's terrible! Since the feet were no longer stuck in the movement anyway, my best idea.
Building a movement ring
As ward1991 has already written, there is a movement ring from helenarou that makes it possible to mount an eta movement in a rolex case. It looks great and makes total sense. But since I didn't order an adapter ring and want to get further in the project, I built it myself. Luckily I have my lathe. By the way: the lathe is a lot of fun.
It looks very similar to the helenarou and does the job.
As ward1991 has already written, there is a movement ring from helenarou that makes it possible to mount an eta movement in a rolex case. It looks great and makes total sense. But since I didn't order an adapter ring and want to get further in the project, I built it myself. Luckily I have my lathe. By the way: the lathe is a lot of fun.
It looks very similar to the helenarou and does the job.
First intermediate status of the construction
As a little motivation, everything has to be put together now. On the picture you could think my project was finished for now. Unfortunately it is not!
First the obvious open points:
The small dot on the insert is still missing. For this I will wait for the dark blue insert. Maybe I'll like that better.
Then to the flaws:
The 26.0 mm dial does not fit at all into the 1680 milk case. My attempt to put a larger dial (26.3 mm) underneath doesn't really work either. It took me 5 attempts to get the movement to fit straight into the case. The value keeps getting stuck in the case. I wrote to milk to ask if he could offer me only the main movement of the 5513. It's becoming my most expensive project.
Something is still wrong with the movement. The second hand runs reliably. But the minute and hour hands stop after 10 - 30 minutes. I suspect it has something to do with the gluing of the dial. The dial doesn't press the minute wheel hard enough, or something.
As a little motivation, everything has to be put together now. On the picture you could think my project was finished for now. Unfortunately it is not!
First the obvious open points:
The small dot on the insert is still missing. For this I will wait for the dark blue insert. Maybe I'll like that better.
Then to the flaws:
The 26.0 mm dial does not fit at all into the 1680 milk case. My attempt to put a larger dial (26.3 mm) underneath doesn't really work either. It took me 5 attempts to get the movement to fit straight into the case. The value keeps getting stuck in the case. I wrote to milk to ask if he could offer me only the main movement of the 5513. It's becoming my most expensive project.
Something is still wrong with the movement. The second hand runs reliably. But the minute and hour hands stop after 10 - 30 minutes. I suspect it has something to do with the gluing of the dial. The dial doesn't press the minute wheel hard enough, or something.
visually it looks good. any space issues at the crown or rotor in the case with the double dials?
sounds like it could be cannon pinon slipage? does the watch continue to run but the hour min hand stop or does it all stop after 30 mins?
sounds like it could be cannon pinon slipage? does the watch continue to run but the hour min hand stop or does it all stop after 30 mins?
No, that fits. The movement is only very slightly higher. Everything within the tolerance
Oh dear. You could be right. I did some more research on the pinon slipage. Is it really the case that the minute and hour move along via friction. So it's kind of crazy that it works.
Yes it is rather crazy... in fact I just recently dealt with this issue with a clone movement for a build. my searches revealed that a dab of oil to increase viscosity will work but in my case the hands would not move at all. so I need to reduce the diameter in order to allow it to contact sufficiently.
thats fancy lingo for use nail clippers and pinch the collar closer to the shaft , at least that was the advice I found online , somehow I didnt mess it up and it works minty now!!
no idea how I managed that !
I got it working again. The cannon pinon was not properly connected to the gear underneath. I learned that it has to engage properly. Only then are the hands carried along. At this picture from VWatchie at watchrepairtalk you can see it very good.
In the last week, I also got the deep blue insert from ali. Here you can see the insert in original color:
And here is the last one, after I did some bleeding. I think this is the one that fits best with the color.
After all my problems during the build, I decided to buy the correct mid-case form milk that fits the 26.0 mm dial and have to wait now for some weeks. At the end this is the only good solution.
In the last week, I also got the deep blue insert from ali. Here you can see the insert in original color:
And here is the last one, after I did some bleeding. I think this is the one that fits best with the color.
After all my problems during the build, I decided to buy the correct mid-case form milk that fits the 26.0 mm dial and have to wait now for some weeks. At the end this is the only good solution.
freebalkany
Active Member
- 24/8/21
- 245
- 234
- 43
Well, looks like you're finally seeing the light at the end of tunnel.
Hopefully everything will work fine with 5513 mid-case and your ETA 27xx.
Good luck!
Hopefully everything will work fine with 5513 mid-case and your ETA 27xx.
Good luck!
that insert in the middle is the one that appeals to me the most.
glad to hear you fixed the movement issue.
glad to hear you fixed the movement issue.
- 23/1/16
- 2,370
- 3,600
- 113
Yes, this move should solve your problem with the dial fitment as the 5513 case set takes a 26mm dial. You will be happy when it does.
My experience with milk case was (not bad) as I used a PA462-20A plexi which gave me the proper fitment around the collar which did not need any special modding.
My biggest let down with the milk case set is that it's not true to its size... mine measured at (38mm) which we know the Gen is a solid 40mm... but it fit well on the wrist at that size. I especially enjoyed the fact that the crown position is correct (sits high like gen)
And some wrist shots for some viewing pleasure
Cheers mate and good luck with the finished project I'll keep an eye out on this thread
- 23/1/16
- 2,370
- 3,600
- 113
Yes, this is exactly correct size for the re-thread tap bit as I had to do the exact same. I used Athaya crown & tube combo, after tapping new threads everything fit perfectly.Re-tap of the crown threads
My research has shown that I need a 3.0mm x .35 tap. And that worked. I recut the thread and the tube from my crown fits. Add some Loctite and the crown fits.
Project is completed
Not finished but finished for the time being. I think I can write that under all my projects so up to now - it's far away from Swissness.
As already written, I ordered a new mid case from milk to be able to mount the small dial. And with that, everything has worked out again so far. Of course, I had to recut the crown thread, adjust the spacer ring for the crystal and press on the crystal. But I've just got routine at it.
I also had the opportunity to buy a 21,600 bps Eta movement without a date disc. So now the Eta 2770 is mounted. This is probably the closest to the original Tudor.
Not finished but finished for the time being. I think I can write that under all my projects so up to now - it's far away from Swissness.
As already written, I ordered a new mid case from milk to be able to mount the small dial. And with that, everything has worked out again so far. Of course, I had to recut the crown thread, adjust the spacer ring for the crystal and press on the crystal. But I've just got routine at it.
I also had the opportunity to buy a 21,600 bps Eta movement without a date disc. So now the Eta 2770 is mounted. This is probably the closest to the original Tudor.
Alternative crystal
At the time, I bought and mounted a Sternkreuz XS 303.472 Tropic 19 crystal. Personally, I am not the biggest fan of Tropic crystals. During my picture research for Tudor 9401, I came across various versions of crystals. Among others also flatter crystals. Question: do any of you know which crystal I would have to buy for this?
At the time, I bought and mounted a Sternkreuz XS 303.472 Tropic 19 crystal. Personally, I am not the biggest fan of Tropic crystals. During my picture research for Tudor 9401, I came across various versions of crystals. Among others also flatter crystals. Question: do any of you know which crystal I would have to buy for this?
Its nice to be able see the progress of this build.
I also may need research about options for crystals.
Soon (I hope) I will receive parts to build a 9401, with Vietnam case which comes with a cristal (thats what I know about the crystal).
From there I will see whether the crystal dome is what I expect or if I should look into alternatives.
10 month later
It has now been 10 months since I put this Tudor watch together. Unfortunately, it didn't manage to get on my wrist very often. Maybe it's the blue, maybe it's the details that have bothered me since then. What details am I talking about? Firstly, the crown guard is a bit too big. Here, Rolex and Tudor have worked a little more filigree than Milk. Then the insert bothered me. The colour is great, but the process of heat and bleaching made it very soft and it didn't take long before the insert was a bit dented. But most of all, I didn't like the superdome crystal.
So this weekend I took it all apart again and reduced the size of the crown guard with the file. Then everything was polished again. I think the case is now quite close to the original. As an insert, I bought a nice light blue one from @ronin007 here in the forum. I treated it with bleach and 1000mm sandpaper, and it fits in well with the rest.
This time I used the Sternkreutz Tropic 19 crystal. It is much flatter and I like it a lot better.
Here are a few pictures:
It has now been 10 months since I put this Tudor watch together. Unfortunately, it didn't manage to get on my wrist very often. Maybe it's the blue, maybe it's the details that have bothered me since then. What details am I talking about? Firstly, the crown guard is a bit too big. Here, Rolex and Tudor have worked a little more filigree than Milk. Then the insert bothered me. The colour is great, but the process of heat and bleaching made it very soft and it didn't take long before the insert was a bit dented. But most of all, I didn't like the superdome crystal.
So this weekend I took it all apart again and reduced the size of the crown guard with the file. Then everything was polished again. I think the case is now quite close to the original. As an insert, I bought a nice light blue one from @ronin007 here in the forum. I treated it with bleach and 1000mm sandpaper, and it fits in well with the rest.
This time I used the Sternkreutz Tropic 19 crystal. It is much flatter and I like it a lot better.
Here are a few pictures:
Which insert is this one that’s fitted in first pictureI got it working again. The cannon pinon was not properly connected to the gear underneath. I learned that it has to engage properly. Only then are the hands carried along. At this picture from VWatchie at watchrepairtalk you can see it very good.
In the last week, I also got the deep blue insert from ali. Here you can see the insert in original color:
And here is the last one, after I did some bleeding. I think this is the one that fits best with the color.
After all my problems during the build, I decided to buy the correct mid-case form milk that fits the 26.0 mm dial and have to wait now for some weeks. At the end this is the only good solution.