Build: Rolex Explorer II 1655

[AlphaCat]

Hi, I already presented myself in the dedicated section.
I landed here after many researches as I wanted to build a Rolex Explorer II 1655 replica by myself.
I read a lot of stuff about this model that has been posted here on RWI and also on other forums / reddit.

I want to build it myself, I know it'd be difficult, especially for a newbie like me.
As a first attempt of modding I want to keep an eye on the expenses and try to stay on a low budget build.

I know that many start from a Cartel / BP base, but what do you think starting from something like this?



The bezel is not perfect nor near Phong level, however it'd be a huge saving. Then I was thinking about:
- Work the case and the crown guards a little bit
- Change the hands (including the GMT hand)
- Maybe keep the dial and try to age it a little bit, or would you directly change it?
- Change the crystal

Let me know your opinion and where you'd sort out the parts (keeping in mind the budget)

Thank you to anyone willing to help!

 

[Caboose]

Talk to @PHILIP74

He does builds with a base BP watch and may be able to provide insight. Example of his work:

[SOLD] - 1655 STEVE MCQUEEN DG3804B

Hi I'm introducing you to my 1655 Steve Mcqueen for sale bought by Trusty, The following operations were performed on this watch: -Aged dial with patina to create a lived effect -Created a yellow effect of the markers -Aged hands and Colored hand Gmt -Aged Gear -I have created a...

forum.replica-watch.info

 

[dpd3672]

What I'm about to say is probably the most generic advice anyone can give, but it's no less true for being vague:

No one can answer that for you.

Only you can decide if the cost, amount of work invested, and accuracy to the gen is good enough.

On a scale from 1 "Canal Street Shitter" to 10 "Straight from the factory in Switzerland" most reps score between 6 and 9 at a cost of $50 to $10,000.
You just have to find the sweet spot that makes sense for you. For most here, it seems to be the OOTB $300-700 range (mostly 8s and 9s, with the occasional 9.5) ) or the OOTB $100-500 + a lot of elbow grease range (mostly 7s to 9.9s).

The model you posted looks like a nice start, and one that would benefit from some reasonable mods.

 

[AlphaCat]

What I'm about to say is probably the most generic advice anyone can give, but it's no less true for being vague:

No one can answer that for you.

Only you can decide if the cost, amount of work invested, and accuracy to the gen is good enough.

On a scale from 1 "Canal Street Shitter" to 10 "Straight from the factory in Switzerland" most reps score between 6 and 9 at a cost of $50 to $10,000.
You just have to find the sweet spot that makes sense for you. For most here, it seems to be the OOTB $300-700 range (mostly 8s and 9s, with the occasional 9.5) ) or the OOTB $100-500 + a lot of elbow grease range (mostly 7s to 9.9s).

The model you posted looks like a nice start, and one that would benefit from some reasonable mods.

Thank you for the general advice. Sounds logic and reasonable

About this specific starting base, looking at the different mods I was thinking above. What do you think?

 

[Caboose]

Thank you for the general advice. Sounds logic and reasonable

About this specific starting base, looking at the different mods I was thinking above. What do you think?

The printing on the dial of the watch you showed is too thick. Additionally, the lume is not raised giving it that fried egg look on the BP which I prefer. I'm not sure of the bezel either. You've got the flat 4s on yours which I like better than the BP. Obviously the magnification on the cyclops is off but if you are changing the crystal this should not be a problem.

In short, if you go with the pictured watch:

• Change the dial
• Change the crystal
• Reshape the case

The crown is also too long so you'll have to source a replacement if you care.

EDIT: And if you can find a better datewheel, I'd recommend that too!

 

[AlphaCat]

Thanks for the tips!
Yeah, the bezel is not perfect, however if you consider that I'd pay the base as it is in the photo only 130$... I think it's a lot better than Cartel or BP.
About the case shape, I was thinking about slimming it down on these areas, because they're too large.

 

[dpd3672]

Thank you for the general advice. Sounds logic and reasonable

About this specific starting base, looking at the different mods I was thinking above. What do you think?

I should be a politician, because I'm about to give another vague answer, lol. As far as your suggested mods (and with the disclaimer that the Explorer II is one of the models I'm less familiar with the details of):

- Work the case and the crown guards a little bit
Sure, anything you do to take an imperfect rep closer to gen will improve the look. I don't know how far off those are from gen, but if it's obvious, go for it. Shaping the case is reasonably easy to do, just be careful of doing it wrong or too much! Working the case will make it look better if done right, but much worse if done wrong.
- Change the hands (including the GMT hand)
If they're obviously not accurate, changing them to something more accurate is a step in the right direction, and a (usually) inexpensive upgrade. That said, if you can't point out some specific shortcoming of the current hands, it doesn't make much sense to change them.
- Maybe keep the dial and try to age it a little bit, or would you directly change it?
It depends on what you're looking for as an end result. Be aware that every model usually has several variations across the range of production. An early Explorer II is a bit different than a later one, and there might have been several small changes during the production run. Your watch may look different from one gen photo online, but nearly exactly right for another. Services, especially by non ADs, can also cause some changes to be made over the years.
Something like this you have to decide what your goal is...is it a specific era of production, that's different from what you have? To correct an obvious flaw?
And within each model and production, every individual WATCH ages differently. There are 50+ year old watches that people find in their late grandfather's desk that look like the day they were purchased...and there are 2 year old tool watches, used as intended, that look like someone used it to pound nails into a board.
I know when I'm trying to chase "perfection" in a watch I'm building (not that I claim to ever get close, but I do make the attempt!), I usually come up with a loose "back story" and modify the watch toward that look. Is this going to be an Explorer II that a pilot impulse bought himself at Heathrow airport on a layover and wore to work for a few years before finding something he liked better, or something a mountaineer wore to do the Seven Summits? One is going to look a lot different than the other. Was it worn outside, so the hands and dial will be faded, or was it worn in an office, where the only wear will be on the clasp? Aging usually gives a more authentic look to a watch, but only if it's done with some type of consistency with the history, real or fabricated, of the individual watch. For example, you see a lot of well worn Submariners, but very few well worn Day Dates, lol.
- Change the crystal
A crystal is another cheap upgrade. Some watches benefit from it, some not so much. If there's something about the current crystal that's obviously flawed to you, go for it. If not, it's really probably not worth doing, in my humble opinion.

 

[Caboose]

Thanks for the tips!
Yeah, the bezel is not perfect, however if you consider that I'd pay the base as it is in the photo only 130$... I think it's a lot better than Cartel or BP.
About the case shape, I was thinking about slimming it down on these areas, because they're too large.

See this thread:

The Evolution of a BP Explorer 1655 or: a rep-freaks intro to professional modding

Like 10 years ago I kind of rediscovered Steve McQueen as a cool guy, since he would suddenly appear in media as a male fashion style icon of the moment. I still think he was cool and I also know there’s no picture of him wearing a Rolex Explorer 1655 (but a Submariner). But I like the 1655...

forum.replica-watch.info

Also, those crown guards need a lot of love, but the dial for me is the big concern. The lume is wrong, and the thickness of the font is wrong. It MAY be cheaper to get a BP and mod that than replace the dial and the crown. I feel like the BP is much closer and will require less work and less parts sourcing.

 

[dpd3672]

Something else to consider. Cartel and BP may not be the most accurate starting point, but they do have the benefit of being the basis for a LOT of others' builds.

So a lot of the problems you might encounter on yours will have already been solved by someone else, and a detailed explanation posted in a thread somewhere.

Starting from scratch on something different makes you the guy who has to solve the problems. And the one who might go down the wrong path more than once before you end up on the right one.

This type of pioneering is great for the community in general, but can be a headache for the individual who has to figure it all out, lol. Know what you're committing to before you start, and thank you in advance, on behalf of the community, if you go for it!

 

[Caboose]

Something else to consider. Cartel and BP may not be the most accurate starting point, but they do have the benefit of being the basis for a LOT of others' builds.

So a lot of the problems you might encounter on yours will have already been solved by someone else, and a detailed explanation posted in a thread somewhere.

Starting from scratch on something different makes you the guy who has to solve the problems. And the one who might go down the wrong path more than once before you end up on the right one.

This type of pioneering is great for the community in general, but can be a headache for the individual who has to figure it all out, lol. Know what you're committing to before you start, and thank you in advance, on behalf of the community, if you go for it!

My primary point is the BP or Cartel would be closer to the intended destination and likely save money as there are so many things to fix on the watch pictured. The BP and Cartel also have the benefits you mentioned. I see that as the best way forward.

 

[dpd3672]

My primary point is the BP or Cartel would be closer to the intended destination and likely save money as there are so many things to fix on the watch pictured. The BP and Cartel also have the benefits you mentioned. I see that as the best way forward.

Generally speaking, in any pursuit, the "beaten path" is used because countless others before you have found it to be the best way to go.

Occasionally, there are pioneers who blaze new trails, and a new, better path is the result. If it weren't for these guys, we wouldn't have America, the iPhone, or even clocks you could wear on your wrist, with accuracy capable of navigation.

But for every Jobs or Columbus, there's a lot of Betamax players, Zunes, and New Coke, littering the landfills, lol.

Unless you're willing to accept the risks, expenses, and failures associated with looking for a better way (and possibly finding it, some do) the safe path isn't so bad.

 

[Geonor]

Hroudland makes an NH34 homage, maybe that could be a starting point

It's about $250 on AliExpress. Would probably need a DW overlay though.

 

[Caboose]

Generally speaking, in any pursuit, the "beaten path" is used because countless others before you have found it to be the best way to go.

Occasionally, there are pioneers who blaze new trails, and a new, better path is the result. If it weren't for these guys, we wouldn't have America, the iPhone, or even clocks you could wear on your wrist, with accuracy capable of navigation.

But for every Jobs or Columbus, there's a lot of Betamax players, Zunes, and New Coke, littering the landfills, lol.

Unless you're willing to accept the risks, expenses, and failures associated with looking for a better way (and possibly finding it, some do) the safe path isn't so bad.

Completely agree. However, as @AlphaCat wants to keep this as budget as possible, I think the best bet to get a good looking watch are to start with a BP or Cartel as we have both said. Obviously blazing a path is fun, but you find issues that can cost money. IE when I made the metal Moonswatches it became clear early on that I would have to spend money on stems and also a spring inside the caseback. Both not something I'd thought I'd have to do, but both cost money and delayed the build.

 

[wubsub]

BP stock is your best starter budget to kick things off. rework lugs and cgs. swap the bezel to a vietnam (not expensive, should be under €150). tbh dial and hands are fine .

i started the same but eventually went for a vietnam build..

 

[AlphaCat]

See this thread:

The Evolution of a BP Explorer 1655 or: a rep-freaks intro to professional modding

Like 10 years ago I kind of rediscovered Steve McQueen as a cool guy, since he would suddenly appear in media as a male fashion style icon of the moment. I still think he was cool and I also know there’s no picture of him wearing a Rolex Explorer 1655 (but a Submariner). But I like the 1655...

forum.replica-watch.info

Also, those crown guards need a lot of love, but the dial for me is the big concern. The lume is wrong, and the thickness of the font is wrong. It MAY be cheaper to get a BP and mod that than replace the dial and the crown. I feel like the BP is much closer and will require less work and less parts sourcing

Thank you everybody for the contribution! I really appreciate it!

Regarding the Viet Dial you're talking about, where can I find it? Do you have a link?
Also want to ask you, if the photo you posted is the Viet build or the BP base + viet dial. And whichever it is, how much did it cost?

 

[Caboose]

Thank you everybody for the contribution! I really appreciate it!

Regarding the Viet Dial you're talking about, where can I find it? Do you have a link?
Also want to ask you, if the photo you posted is the Viet build or the BP base + viet dial. And whichever it is, how much did it cost?

This may be a good option: https://www.yukiwatch.com/Explorer-II-1665-yel-lume-dial-p489550185

 

[AlphaCat]

Sorry I had to write viet bezel (not viet dial). Do you have a link for the bezel you were talking about?

 

[wubsub]

Sorry I had to write viet bezel (not viet dial). Do you have a link for the bezel you were talking about?

Kuared (viet seller) has for sale for $190 and $70 shipp.

Aftermarket Steel Bezel for Vintage Rolex EXPLORER ref 1655- Mark1 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Aftermarket Steel Bezel for Vintage Rolex EXPLORER ref 1655- Mark1 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

if you need this i have a new spare one i can let go for a discount if you're interested. shoot a pm and we'll set up a reserved sale.

 

[AlphaCat]

Any suggestions for a good Viet dial without breaking the bank?

 

[Caboose]

Any suggestions for a good Viet dial without breaking the bank?

Dial or bezel? I know that bezel is posted is expensive, and frankly I'd have the BP over that to save a buck, but the BP isn't a Mark I, if you like that flat 4 and whatnot.