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AP 15500 41mm
- Thread starter vcappp
- Start date
Yes I agree totally. With exception of special models (to allow for caseback engraving or perhaps for robust diving) the majority of APs will come with exhibition casebacks and as a gen owner I prefer it that way.
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- 20/6/18
- 1,000
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here is another professional review comparing 15500 vs 15400
SIHH 2019: AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK REF. 15500. LIVE PICTURES, PRICING AND DETAILED EXPLANATION OF NUANCES.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 15500ST
With the release of the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 15500 with a 41 mm case, the 41 mm Royal Oak reference 15400 is now officially discontinued. While many felt that the reference 15400 was not perfect, to us it was a very well balanced Royal Oak in terms of overall proportions and design. When the Royal Oak reference 15400 first came out in 2012, collectors of the brand were critical about the fact that the AP calibre 3120 seemed relatively too small for a 41 mm case size —as it was originally launched for the 39 mm reference 15300—, and that due to that, the date aperture was positioned too far to the left needing a small hash marker to its right. Regardless of the date positioning, the reference 15400 was simply perfect as a more robust Royal Oak still fitted with a quick-set calendar, a screw-down crown, double-baton at 12 o’clock and a display case back.
Nuances Between Preceding Royal Oak 15400 vs. New Royal Oak 15500
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 15500ST
With the release of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 15500 is important to list all the nuances between this new watch and its predecessor ref. 15400 now phased out and to be discontinued. First, the redesign of the new Royal Oak ref. 15500 follows the release of the new AP automatic movement, calibre 4302 to power the new Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Date model —more on this topic to follow on a separate article.
The new calibre 4302 is an automatic movement with a larger diameter at 32 mm and more suited for a 41 mm case size. While the automatic AP calibre 3120 seemed to work just fine within the 41 mm Royal Oak case regardless of its 26.6 mm diameter —5.4 mm narrower than the new calibre—, Audemars Piguet mentions that the wider calibre 4302 is more reliable and it provides 10 extra hours of power reserve —70 hours versus 60 on calibre 3120. Turning the watch over reveals a new look on the calibre with a completely different oscillating weight and new architecture. Below you’ll see a picture of calibre 3120 next to the new calibre 4302.
With the new Audemars Piguet calibre 4302 also comes greater case thickness but not by much. While both the Royal Oak ref. 15400 and the new Royal Oak ref. 15500 have a case diameter of 41 mm, the ref. 15400 had a thickness under 10 mm at 9.8mm. The new Royal Oak ref. 15500 is slightly thicker at 10.4 mm. Honestly, the additional 0.6 mm are not perceivable when you hold the two watches side-by-side like we did. We didn’t even bother to take a picture of one watch on top of the other because you really can’t tell that the new Royal Oak ref. 15500 is slightly thicker.
The biggest impact from the new Calibre 4302 on the 41 mm Royal Oak is that the dial had to be redesigned to reposition the date aperture at 3 o’clock. Even though the new dial seems more legible and cleaner, it feels like there’s something missing as the applied markers are wider and shorter than those on the 15400 and the date aperture is bigger and positioned too close to the edge of the dial without a 3 o’clock marker. Something else that catches your eye when looking at the 15400 next to the 15500 is that the applied ‘AP’ logo at 12 o’clock is slightly bigger on the latter.
At first glance, one would think that this is a quartz Royal Oak as the word ‘Automatic’ was removed, making this Royal Oak reference, the first self-winding Royal Oak since 1972 to not bear the ‘Automatic’ designation on its dial. Additionally, both the ‘Audemars Piguet’ name and the minute track had been printed on a smooth finished area and not on the “Grande Tapisserie” pattern. Lastly, the counterweight area on the seconds hand has been skeletonized and the hour and minute hands slightly widened.
The new Royal Oak ref. 15500 —still 41 mm like its predecessor the ref. 15400— is available in stainless steel with blue, slate grey —in reality we perceived no color difference against the ruthenium grey dial on our 15400— or black dial. Additionally, a pink gold model is also available with black dial and the option of pink gold bracelet or black alligator strap. The new Royal Oak 15500 is exclusively available at the AP boutiques.
After perusing both watches at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva this week, all we can say is that the Royal Oak ref. 15400 is much superior despite the use of calibre 3120 and a watch that will be dearly missed from AP’s lineup. In reality the 15400 is by far a much better looking Royal Oak when compared to the new 15500. With the 15400 phased out and soon to be officially discontinued expect for the secondary market to pick up and prices to go up really fast on any 15400s out there.
Sticker Price $19,200 USD.
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SIHH 2019: AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK REF. 15500. LIVE PICTURES, PRICING AND DETAILED EXPLANATION OF NUANCES.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 15500ST
With the release of the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 15500 with a 41 mm case, the 41 mm Royal Oak reference 15400 is now officially discontinued. While many felt that the reference 15400 was not perfect, to us it was a very well balanced Royal Oak in terms of overall proportions and design. When the Royal Oak reference 15400 first came out in 2012, collectors of the brand were critical about the fact that the AP calibre 3120 seemed relatively too small for a 41 mm case size —as it was originally launched for the 39 mm reference 15300—, and that due to that, the date aperture was positioned too far to the left needing a small hash marker to its right. Regardless of the date positioning, the reference 15400 was simply perfect as a more robust Royal Oak still fitted with a quick-set calendar, a screw-down crown, double-baton at 12 o’clock and a display case back.
Nuances Between Preceding Royal Oak 15400 vs. New Royal Oak 15500
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 15500ST
With the release of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 15500 is important to list all the nuances between this new watch and its predecessor ref. 15400 now phased out and to be discontinued. First, the redesign of the new Royal Oak ref. 15500 follows the release of the new AP automatic movement, calibre 4302 to power the new Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Date model —more on this topic to follow on a separate article.
The new calibre 4302 is an automatic movement with a larger diameter at 32 mm and more suited for a 41 mm case size. While the automatic AP calibre 3120 seemed to work just fine within the 41 mm Royal Oak case regardless of its 26.6 mm diameter —5.4 mm narrower than the new calibre—, Audemars Piguet mentions that the wider calibre 4302 is more reliable and it provides 10 extra hours of power reserve —70 hours versus 60 on calibre 3120. Turning the watch over reveals a new look on the calibre with a completely different oscillating weight and new architecture. Below you’ll see a picture of calibre 3120 next to the new calibre 4302.
With the new Audemars Piguet calibre 4302 also comes greater case thickness but not by much. While both the Royal Oak ref. 15400 and the new Royal Oak ref. 15500 have a case diameter of 41 mm, the ref. 15400 had a thickness under 10 mm at 9.8mm. The new Royal Oak ref. 15500 is slightly thicker at 10.4 mm. Honestly, the additional 0.6 mm are not perceivable when you hold the two watches side-by-side like we did. We didn’t even bother to take a picture of one watch on top of the other because you really can’t tell that the new Royal Oak ref. 15500 is slightly thicker.
The biggest impact from the new Calibre 4302 on the 41 mm Royal Oak is that the dial had to be redesigned to reposition the date aperture at 3 o’clock. Even though the new dial seems more legible and cleaner, it feels like there’s something missing as the applied markers are wider and shorter than those on the 15400 and the date aperture is bigger and positioned too close to the edge of the dial without a 3 o’clock marker. Something else that catches your eye when looking at the 15400 next to the 15500 is that the applied ‘AP’ logo at 12 o’clock is slightly bigger on the latter.
At first glance, one would think that this is a quartz Royal Oak as the word ‘Automatic’ was removed, making this Royal Oak reference, the first self-winding Royal Oak since 1972 to not bear the ‘Automatic’ designation on its dial. Additionally, both the ‘Audemars Piguet’ name and the minute track had been printed on a smooth finished area and not on the “Grande Tapisserie” pattern. Lastly, the counterweight area on the seconds hand has been skeletonized and the hour and minute hands slightly widened.
The new Royal Oak ref. 15500 —still 41 mm like its predecessor the ref. 15400— is available in stainless steel with blue, slate grey —in reality we perceived no color difference against the ruthenium grey dial on our 15400— or black dial. Additionally, a pink gold model is also available with black dial and the option of pink gold bracelet or black alligator strap. The new Royal Oak 15500 is exclusively available at the AP boutiques.
After perusing both watches at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva this week, all we can say is that the Royal Oak ref. 15400 is much superior despite the use of calibre 3120 and a watch that will be dearly missed from AP’s lineup. In reality the 15400 is by far a much better looking Royal Oak when compared to the new 15500. With the 15400 phased out and soon to be officially discontinued expect for the secondary market to pick up and prices to go up really fast on any 15400s out there.
Sticker Price $19,200 USD.
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Blue Ocean
Getting To Know The Place
- 7/12/17
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Tigerdragon
Mythical Poster
- 19/10/13
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the bezel looks shitty the whole dimension looks like a cheap replica lol
Agreed, at least jf will provide (maybe) a good minute marker printing.
BIONONE
Respected Member
- 28/4/17
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Following the currently occuring discussions about the 15500 in the gen world and the consensus seems to be happy with a cleaner dial layout while hating the short sticks and right aligned date window...
thats just how it is when you push a watch for over 40 to almost 50 years now. Some references are not for everyone...
thats just how it is when you push a watch for over 40 to almost 50 years now. Some references are not for everyone...
Tobel
Respected Member
- 6/7/17
- 5,456
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- 113
I doubt people will appreciate the extra thicknes. Not sure what AP did there...
gilrob
Legendary Member
The only ones that will appreciate the thickness are the rep makers, makes it easier for them to copy.
Tobel
Respected Member
- 6/7/17
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BIONONE
Respected Member
- 28/4/17
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and the rest won't even mention it on the wrist as only a minority of AP customers are true watch enthusiast at picky like rep geeks hehe
- 27/7/15
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Knowing JF they will somehow still make it 1mm thicker than gen, maybe use a different brand of aluminium foil for the movement deco plate
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LuminorReptar
RepTime BST Mod
I think we'll definitely be seeing a super rep of this soon, I think all the new changes from 15400 to 15500 will make it an easier watch to rep..
Jury is still out on which I prefer, but I'm leaning 15400. I think it has a lot more subtle elegance to it that gets lost with the sportier approach with the 15500..
Jury is still out on which I prefer, but I'm leaning 15400. I think it has a lot more subtle elegance to it that gets lost with the sportier approach with the 15500..
As long as the reps use the miyota movement, it does not matter if it is the 15400 or 15500, it will never be a super rep IMHO.
Good rep on the wrist, yes. But then again, our definitions of good or super reps all differ, and it boils down ultimately to how happy you are with the watch. That is all that matters in the end, accurate details or otherwise.
LuminorReptar
RepTime BST Mod
Agreed, I don't typically get hung up on 'super rep' status - ultimately the end user will decide what they enjoy, and the flaws they can live with. I think if the Miyota movement ends up the only thing holding the 15500 back from being a super rep due to open case back, thats not something I'd personally be concerned with... on wrist you'd never see it anyway so for all intents and purposes you'd have a near perfect rep.
I was just speculating that the rep makers should have no problem getting the dial print and details, DW font, case shape, and most importantly thickness same as gen. I don't think I'd be surprised if the V1 15500 is a closer rep (thickness, print, DW) , than the 15400.. (but who knows)
Personally the sizing won't work for me anyway, I just wish JF would update the 15450 ..
Nicely put.
There is nothing stopping anyone from considering the JF 15400 v4, for example, a super rep, or a piece of junk. It all depends on their expectations, and what they are comparing it to.
That is why this forum exists as a platform to share all our opinions, expectations and experience as individuals. There is no "correct" definition of a super rep and it is all subjective and individual.
Like you, I see the 15500 as something reppable, once they get over the placement of the datewheel/window position. Technically it does not seem to be more difficult to produce than the 15400, but I have not seen or held the gen in person, so I do not know for sure.
Well the size of the watch is subjective too. There is "no one size fits all" approach though Rolex seems to have gotten it very close with their perennial 40mm insistence through the majority of their watches.
Fab87pz
Active Member
- 2/8/18
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If JF reps this I will 99% buy it. I liked the 15400 but never bouth a rep because I think they had too many flaws compared with gen. But this should be Easier to replicate (theorically) . The thickness doesn't bother me, such as the absence of the "automatic" print. What I really don't like is the absence of the marker at 3 o 'clock and the new DW position but if the rest is repped fine I can live with that. Now I just have to sit and wait some months...
- 20/6/18
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Here are side-by-side comparison pictures of new models between 15500 and 15202.
(41mm vs 39mm)
more info https://www.fratellowatches.com/ap-royal-oak-15500-versus-152202/
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(41mm vs 39mm)
more info https://www.fratellowatches.com/ap-royal-oak-15500-versus-152202/
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk