Hey again, folks.
I have a few updates for this thread. I will list them here and then upload my original post with them. First of all, I bought a Panatime leather band today (Pics forthcoming soon) and fitted it myself, in doing so I just had a couple of additions of information about bracelet removal and the text behind the bracelet between the lugs...
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Replacing The Bracelet
Despite my initial confusion, replacing the bracelet is relatively easy. The easiest way I can explain to do it is to first of all get some tape or something and mask off your lugs. You may think you'll be fine and you won't scratch them but it is very easy to slip, as I learnt the hard way when I put a very light scratch into one of my lugs during removal. There are actual tools for this but I found that if you just get a push pin, you can insert it in the holes, apply it to the springbar which has a tiny notch in it on each side, and then simply apply pressure from the front of the watch towards the caseback with your thumb while applying pressure on the pushpin (And thus the springbar) towards the middle of the bracelet. This will, or at least should, be easy enought for you to pop one side of the springbar out. Once this is done, apply the same method for the other three notches and the end links come right off. Rolexes, or at least most of them including the Milgauss, take 20mm leather straps. I have a 20mm strap I ordered from Panatime on mine right now and the fit is perfect, so this is good, rep is correctly sized to gen.
Image of removed bracelet forthcoming...
Changing out the bracelet for leather does not really affect the weight of the watch that much. It does feel a bit lighter with the removal of the bracelet but the overall feel is the same. This watch is also well suited to leather. I bought a Crocodile style black leather w/ orange stitching & highlights from Panatime and it could not be any nicer or suit the watch any better. I recommend the same strap to anyone with a Milgauss, you could easily mistake it for a stock strap if you didn't know any better, it matches that well. I prefer the look of the stock bracelet, but having the option for leather is very good and I do not regret my purchase at all, I will wear it with pride.
Image of the Milgauss laid flat front side with my personal choice of strap attached forthcoming...
Image of the Milgauss laid frat back side with my personal choice of strap attached forthcoming...
Image of the Milgauss on wrist with my personal choice of strap attached forthcoming...
That said, I would not recommend a NATO strap or any other type of strap/bracelet for this watch. Stick to black or orange leather is my opinion. This is entirely up to you though, my word is not gospel.
An image stolen borrowed from Watchuseek demonstrating how the Milgauss looks on a Nato, with orange accent.
Between The Lugs
First of all, on removing the bracelet, I found more grime. Not really surprising, and I've already cleaned it, but again, another indication of how reps have sucky QC sometimes, this watch was pretty dirty everywhere hidden. I don't look forward to hearing what state the movement might be in lol
Second of all, for anyone who is curious, the serial number & model code between the lugs are present and appear to be well engraved. On the top side between the lugs is printed "ORIG ROLEX DESIGN" on one line and "116400" under it. This is the correct model code for the Milgauss, so that is good. On the bottom side between the lugs is printed "STAINLESS STEEL" on one line and my M serial under it. The serial matches the one engraved into the rehaut, so as far as I know, between the lugs engraving checks out to how it should appear on a gen.
Image of top side between the lugs forthcoming...
Image of bottom side between the lugs forthcoming...
Printed (Not engraved) on the inside of the end links is "EO 72400" and next to that a small Rolex coronet. This, unlike the case body engraving, appears to be somewhat poorly done. I don't know what it should look like on the gen but being a Rolex, I am quite sure it would be very sharp and striking, this is very blurry and it almost appears a very slight shade of murky brown rather than black.
Image of the printing on the end links is forthcoming...
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I also have some additions to the comparisons to gen, as I went into an AD today and examined the genuine Milgauss Black at great length. I came away feeling, if I'm honest... disappointed.
The replica Milgauss, as we know, has an incorrect seconds hand. I previously stated this was only majorly noticeable in pictures, I totally take this back, the difference in real life is actually very prominent, easily visible from the naked eye at a reasonable viewing distance. The problem is not only is the genuine hand noticeably sharper but it's also much better finished at the edges (As though it's been painted all over and the rep has only been painted top side) and it's very nicely bevelled as well so it has great depth. The seconds hand is a huge problem on our reps, it is definitely the wrong shape and nowhere near as sharp and catching as the gen, which shines brightly under light.
Another totally new flaw I noticed is the printing on the dial. As I said before, the dial printing on the replica is sharp and clear and I stand by this. What I did not realise and what cannot be seen in photo's of the gen Milgauss is that the actual orange dial text 'Milgauss' is actually bevelled and glossy like the seconds hand! That caught me by surprise, I think I might be the first person to be reporting this difference as I've never seen it shown in pictures nor mentioned on a forum. It is not a killer detail, it is very minor, but it means that even if you bought yourself a gen seconds hand, your rep would still be distinguishable to the naked eye to somebody who knew exactly what to look for. I still stand by my claim with a gen seconds hand you could fool AD's though.
The final additional flaw I noticed was that under light, it appears the metal edges of the hour markers are very slightly thicker, as they exhibit a much nicer shine than the replica. This could possibly have just been the type of light used in the AD, but it certainly seemed that way to me. I still cannot see a difference in pictures though, if this is even a flaw, it is a VERY minor one.
Apart from that everything else seems very very accurate, I am not aware of any flaws other than those listed here. Fix the seconds hand and you have a near perfect super replica, but not so perfect as that someone who knew EXACTLY what to look for could not spot the difference.