AHX's Milgauss Megathread

[timmbo]

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[AHX]

I'm a little confused which rep this is. Looking at the Puretime board, the movement looks like shown is nickel-plated, yet the one you posted has a different coloured movement. Could you confirm which one this is? Thanks!

Happy to help!

The gold movement I have listed as having bought is called the Asian ETA-2836. It is available on the $188 1:1 Editions listed by Puretime here.

The Nickel Plated movement you refer to in that thread is the Asian ETA-2836 Modified To Rolex Cal. 3131 look, better known as the Asian 3131 or A3131. It is available, along with an optional Swiss ETA-2836 which is more or less the same as the gold Asian ETA-2836, on the A3131 Best Edition for $298 here.

The difference between those watches is only the movement. Also, supposedly the steel is of a better grade on the higher end Milgauss, but to be honest I don't think I believe that, I haven't seen a shred of proof, I think the slightly higher grade of steel is a sham. I've posted information about the differences between these movements in my original post in this thread, so you can go back and check it out and that will explain the difference between these movements and why I believe you should NOT buy the A3131 movement.

Did that help your confusion?

 

[timmbo]

Perfect! Thanks.

 

[AHX]

Hey again, folks.

I have a few updates for this thread. I will list them here and then upload my original post with them. First of all, I bought a Panatime leather band today (Pics forthcoming soon) and fitted it myself, in doing so I just had a couple of additions of information about bracelet removal and the text behind the bracelet between the lugs...

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Replacing The Bracelet

Despite my initial confusion, replacing the bracelet is relatively easy. The easiest way I can explain to do it is to first of all get some tape or something and mask off your lugs. You may think you'll be fine and you won't scratch them but it is very easy to slip, as I learnt the hard way when I put a very light scratch into one of my lugs during removal. There are actual tools for this but I found that if you just get a push pin, you can insert it in the holes, apply it to the springbar which has a tiny notch in it on each side, and then simply apply pressure from the front of the watch towards the caseback with your thumb while applying pressure on the pushpin (And thus the springbar) towards the middle of the bracelet. This will, or at least should, be easy enought for you to pop one side of the springbar out. Once this is done, apply the same method for the other three notches and the end links come right off. Rolexes, or at least most of them including the Milgauss, take 20mm leather straps. I have a 20mm strap I ordered from Panatime on mine right now and the fit is perfect, so this is good, rep is correctly sized to gen.

Image of removed bracelet forthcoming...

Changing out the bracelet for leather does not really affect the weight of the watch that much. It does feel a bit lighter with the removal of the bracelet but the overall feel is the same. This watch is also well suited to leather. I bought a Crocodile style black leather w/ orange stitching & highlights from Panatime and it could not be any nicer or suit the watch any better. I recommend the same strap to anyone with a Milgauss, you could easily mistake it for a stock strap if you didn't know any better, it matches that well. I prefer the look of the stock bracelet, but having the option for leather is very good and I do not regret my purchase at all, I will wear it with pride.

Image of the Milgauss laid flat front side with my personal choice of strap attached forthcoming...
Image of the Milgauss laid frat back side with my personal choice of strap attached forthcoming...
Image of the Milgauss on wrist with my personal choice of strap attached forthcoming...

That said, I would not recommend a NATO strap or any other type of strap/bracelet for this watch. Stick to black or orange leather is my opinion. This is entirely up to you though, my word is not gospel.

An image stolen borrowed from Watchuseek demonstrating how the Milgauss looks on a Nato, with orange accent.


Between The Lugs

First of all, on removing the bracelet, I found more grime. Not really surprising, and I've already cleaned it, but again, another indication of how reps have sucky QC sometimes, this watch was pretty dirty everywhere hidden. I don't look forward to hearing what state the movement might be in lol

Second of all, for anyone who is curious, the serial number & model code between the lugs are present and appear to be well engraved. On the top side between the lugs is printed "ORIG ROLEX DESIGN" on one line and "116400" under it. This is the correct model code for the Milgauss, so that is good. On the bottom side between the lugs is printed "STAINLESS STEEL" on one line and my M serial under it. The serial matches the one engraved into the rehaut, so as far as I know, between the lugs engraving checks out to how it should appear on a gen.

Image of top side between the lugs forthcoming...
Image of bottom side between the lugs forthcoming...


Printed (Not engraved) on the inside of the end links is "EO 72400" and next to that a small Rolex coronet. This, unlike the case body engraving, appears to be somewhat poorly done. I don't know what it should look like on the gen but being a Rolex, I am quite sure it would be very sharp and striking, this is very blurry and it almost appears a very slight shade of murky brown rather than black.

Image of the printing on the end links is forthcoming...

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I also have some additions to the comparisons to gen, as I went into an AD today and examined the genuine Milgauss Black at great length. I came away feeling, if I'm honest... disappointed.

The replica Milgauss, as we know, has an incorrect seconds hand. I previously stated this was only majorly noticeable in pictures, I totally take this back, the difference in real life is actually very prominent, easily visible from the naked eye at a reasonable viewing distance. The problem is not only is the genuine hand noticeably sharper but it's also much better finished at the edges (As though it's been painted all over and the rep has only been painted top side) and it's very nicely bevelled as well so it has great depth. The seconds hand is a huge problem on our reps, it is definitely the wrong shape and nowhere near as sharp and catching as the gen, which shines brightly under light.

Another totally new flaw I noticed is the printing on the dial. As I said before, the dial printing on the replica is sharp and clear and I stand by this. What I did not realise and what cannot be seen in photo's of the gen Milgauss is that the actual orange dial text 'Milgauss' is actually bevelled and glossy like the seconds hand! That caught me by surprise, I think I might be the first person to be reporting this difference as I've never seen it shown in pictures nor mentioned on a forum. It is not a killer detail, it is very minor, but it means that even if you bought yourself a gen seconds hand, your rep would still be distinguishable to the naked eye to somebody who knew exactly what to look for. I still stand by my claim with a gen seconds hand you could fool AD's though.

The final additional flaw I noticed was that under light, it appears the metal edges of the hour markers are very slightly thicker, as they exhibit a much nicer shine than the replica. This could possibly have just been the type of light used in the AD, but it certainly seemed that way to me. I still cannot see a difference in pictures though, if this is even a flaw, it is a VERY minor one.

Apart from that everything else seems very very accurate, I am not aware of any flaws other than those listed here. Fix the seconds hand and you have a near perfect super replica, but not so perfect as that someone who knew EXACTLY what to look for could not spot the difference.

 

[Bonesey]

As always AHX lots of lovely information forthcoming. You've made yourself somewhat of the go-to guy for this current line of Milguass Reps. I quite like the picture you've posted of the Nato strap on the Milguass. The one you've posted is actually the same as the Tudor Chronograph and I think fits pretty well.

I've got a fully PVD'd black Nato strap waiting at home for my Pro-Hunter Milguass to arrive which hopefully should look pretty nice against the PVD'd case.

Here's a little Milguass background that hopefully you'll like

http://i.imgur.com/YfBRs.jpg

 

[AHX]

As always AHX lots of lovely information forthcoming. You've made yourself somewhat of the go-to guy for this current line of Milguass Reps. I quite like the picture you've posted of the Nato strap on the Milguass. The one you've posted is actually the same as the Tudor Chronograph and I think fits pretty well.

I've got a fully PVD'd black Nato strap waiting at home for my Pro-Hunter Milguass to arrive which hopefully should look pretty nice against the PVD'd case.

Cheers mate

Actually though, I haven't really written anything on the Pro Hunter Milgauss, I don't know much about it just seen a couple pics here and there. I can actually see NATO working on the black PVD body, the reason I'm against it on normal Milgausses is that it clashes with the entirely polished steel case, but I can see it working on PVD black. I might drop in some info about the Pro Hunter model soon too, drop us a picture of yours on/off NATO when you get it and I'll include them

Here are some pictures of my Milgauss on leather strap. I won't include these in the original post just yet as they are taken with my iPhone in poor light, not with the DSLR. I will get around to proper pics soon.

 

[Bonesey]

Looks crackin'. I won't even start to moan about how long it's going to be before i get to see mine.

 

[opus5]

Great Review

 

[AHX]

Great Review

Thank you

And bonesey, I can't wait to see pics of your Pro Hunter.

 

[SpootyPuff]

Awesome AHX! rep pts added

Thanks for taking the time!

 

[acg2010]

Very nice review!

A note on the white, I've tried on the gen, considered buying it, and on some of them the orange lume is not as smooth as on the black watch on the gen either.

 

[AHX]

Very nice review!

A note on the white, I've tried on the gen, considered buying it, and on some of them the orange lume is not as smooth as on the black watch on the gen either.

I will add this into the main post, thank you.

I also had a pm from mazz68 regarding why the Milgauss crown coronet is underlined, I will add this in too.

 

[AHX]

New addition today about how to set the time. I realise this is pretty basic info for most of you but as this is meant to be a one stop Milgauss info thread I think it's best I include it as I've been getting a lot of questions via PM and one today was about how to set the time.

 

[levelmanroger]

New addition today about how to set the time. I realise this is pretty basic info for most of you but as this is meant to be a one stop Milgauss info thread I think it's best I include it as I've been getting a lot of questions via PM and one today was about how to set the time.

I haven't read your instructions on setting the Milgauss, but many people fail to mention the Farraday compensation so I thought I'd mention it here.

Due to the Farraday cage's ability to channel the earth's magnetic fields around the movement, it actually affects the accuracy of the rep movements which were built to be used in a wide variety of watches and not just in watches with a Farraday cage. As such, in the Northern Hemisphere you should set your watch 3 minutes ahead in the morning hours, and 3 minutes behind in the afternoon/evening hours. When you look at your watch to tell time, you have to remember whether it is am or pm and make the mental compensation to achieve correct time.

In the Southern Hemisphere, you reverse the process (setting the watch 3 minutes behind in the am hours and ahead in the pm hours) and, again, do the mental compensation when you tell time.

This will keep your Milgauss running in tip-top shape and counter-act the magnetic shielding of the Farraday cage. I hope this helped anyone who didn't already know this information. Sorry if I bored the enlightened among us.







:biglaugh::biglaugh::biglaugh::biglaugh::biglaugh:opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:opcorn::biglaugh::biglaugh::biglaugh::biglaugh:

 

[Bonesey]

Then why is AHX's movement running within 6 secs a day if he's not calibrating this extra 3 mins?

Or is what you're saying that due to the flux reduction in the faraday case back that through the day the movement will fluctuate 6 mins (3 in am to 3 in pm) and will only be accurate at 12 every day?

I think I might have got myself confused there.

or are you just taking the proverbial piss?

 

[levelmanroger]

It's possible that AHX is located very near the Equator. This would equalize the magnetic fields from both poles and thus eliminate the need for Farraday compensation.

 

[Bonesey]

Away you go, Oz isn't that near the equator.

 

[levelmanroger]

Oh... Australia. If you ever see a magnetic map of the earth, you'll notice an anomoly running through Australia. The magnetic fields are actually rather high in the atmosphere there. Unless he lives in the mountains, his watch is being afffected very little.
As for you in Scotland, however, you'll have a bugger of a time compensating. You might need to use 4 minutes for your calibration gradient.

 

[Bonesey]

Well I'm in the South China sea at the moment. Getting closer to the equator. If I had mine here i'd have to be constantly adjusting the time by a few seconds every 15 mins as we get closer I imagine. What a pain!

 

[AHX]

Good lord that is some rubbish haha. The replica Milgauss doesn't even have a faraday, nor a parachrom blu hairspring even if it did. Any difference made by the Earth's magnetic fields would be extremely minor, I shan't be adding that to the original post