5512 Build

[Mcqueen5513]

Hey - I hope that I posted this in the correct place.

I'm going to get started on a 5512/5513 build, but need some input from everyone. I'm shooting for accuracy, but also want something fairly bulletproof. I don't want a watch that is going to be right twice a day, lol. I also would love it if it could handle some abuse, like the original could.

I wish I could find a good 5512 ETA compatible dial, but Raffles doesn't seem to offer one.

Case - I'm going to go with a Ruby's case. How waterproof are these out of the box? I would really love to do a build that was 200m waterproof
Movement - I think its going to have to be a ETA, in all honesty. I don't want to deal with buying a rolex chinese replica movement, only to have it keep poor time, or break in a year or two. I'll be sourcing a good quality swiss made ETA-2824 (most likely), and then potentially having my watchmaker regulate it.

Bracelet - Probably Ruby's rivet bracelet for this as well.
Thought about doing one of these, but think the Ruby's is probably a better choice

Dial - https://rafflesdials.com/vintage-st...ota-8215-movement-29mm-super-yellow-luminova/
or
https://rafflesdials.com/vintage-st...movement-29mm-gilt-and-super-yellow-luminova/

That just leaves a few last minute items like a movement holder/retention ring. If anyone has tips for this, I'm all ears.

Not sure if I need gaskets or not.

Does anyone have any other items I'm going to need? If you have a link to a good aging technique forum, I'm all ears!

Thanks for any input you can provide! The big thing for me is trying to figure out how to make this thing as waterproof as possible.

 

[Karbon74]

are you set on doing a Ruby?
If you are still open about it, I would suggest to do a JKF.

 

[Mcqueen5513]

Do you know where to source one? I'm fairly new to this whole thing. Is the quality better, or is it that it is more accurate?

 

[Karbon74]

Marvellous Replica (TD section) get you vintage Rolex for an unbeatable price. You need to do some work on the case but the results can be pretty good

If it's your first mod built, it's a great starting point. You can afford to learn on it and do a Ruby later to apply your learnings

You can check out this tutorial.
Thread 'Building a 5513 - Tutorial'
https://forum.replica-watch.info/threads/building-a-5513-tutorial.10949961/

it's for a 5513, but mostly it's just the dial.

this is my first build ever, following the tutorial, and with advice from other members when I was stuck.

 

[Mcqueen5513]

That looks great!

If the case is going to need a bunch of work, what are the benefits to doing the JFK over the Ruby's case? What are some of the differences between the two cases?

 

[Mcqueen5513]

That tutorial is magic! Thank you! Tons of great info in there!

 

[dpd3672]

Do you know where to source one? I'm fairly new to this whole thing. Is the quality better, or is it that it is more accurate?

The thing is...it's not as simple as "which one is the most accurate," especially for a vintage watch like a 5512/5513.

There were so many variations in the case, dial, hands, and bracelet, and so wide a range of condition today (especially when parts replaced during service are factored in) that it's close to an impossible question to answer. All possible combinations considered, you're talking about hundreds of different watches, with different dials, hands, bracelets, cases, crystals, and condition that all can lay claim to the title "genuine 5512/5513."

How accurate it is depends on how much you want to spend, how much you want to get your hands dirty, and how much imperfection you can live with. There's also a world of difference in a NIB 5512 from before 1960 and a well worn 5513 from 1990 (the earliest and latest years these were made).

You can make a damn good rep from a Cartel or Raffles watch for under $200 and a fair investment of elbow grease, or you can build up a Franken with a case, dial, and hands, so everything visible on the outside is real. This could conceivably cost $20,000, depending on condition and which variation you want to get. There are infinite possibilities in between.

Take a look at some of the ones sold recently in the M2M section. The best ones I can remember seeing were generally Raffles or Cartel cases, sometimes with Raffles/Cartel Dials, sometimes with an upgrade to a Viet dial. Some had home made gilt dials which look absolutely amazing. Without exception, every single one had a lot of work done to make it appear more genuine.

One of the reasons so many questions are answered with some variation of "do your homework" is because there really is no correct answer.

The short answer is: Buy a cartel or a Raffles and a Dremel.
The slightly more detailed answer is: Look at hundreds of photos of genuine watches, find you that speaks to you, and get to work copying that exact model.

But in the end, you're the only one that can answer the question for your budget, level of patience, quality standards, and technical expertise.

Also, I wouldn't feel that a genuine ETA movement is a "must-have." They're great quality movements, but in the end, Swiss or Asian, it's just a machine, that needs maintenance and care. If budget is any kind of a priority, I'd personally spend the money on things I can see, rather than things I can't. Either movement can last forever, running to chonometer specs, if treated right.

 

[Karbon74]

Cartel = JKF
mostly


writing this because it took me months to figure it out

 

[Karbon74]

That looks great!

If the case is going to need a bunch of work, what are the benefits to doing the JFK over the Ruby's case? What are some of the differences between the two cases?

even the Ruby will need work if your aim is "accurate". The point here is to study the case shape, lugs and crown guard shape. And picture how you will meld the metal into what you want.

There is no OOTB case that's gen spec, except maybe some elusive and expensive viet cases

 

[Solution6]

If you don't care about case engravings, an in-between JKF and Ruby/Vietnam, would be a Milk case. Have a little look on the forum as there are many examples.

Regarding your waterproofing goals - these are replica watches/cases. Even a genuine 5512/5513 of the age might have trouble with water. Some of these kits are good and if you're lucky to get a great combo of Xtal+pressure ring, crown, case-back that seal ok, you'll be set for some light water action. If you want 100/200M, buy a Seiko Scuba

 

[Mcqueen5513]

Thanks for all of the input guys! I do really appreciate it.
I guess what I don't totally understand is why the JFK case is better than a ruby. The Ruby, at least from photos, seems pretty well made.

 

[Karbon74]

it's not "better"
just that a complete watch cost less than 200...

 

[Mcqueen5513]

This has been such a wealth of knowledge. Thanks guys I really appreciate it. If there isn't much difference in build quality between the JFK and the Ruby, I wonder why the ruby has such a higher cost. Maybe I'll save that if I choose to do a gmt Master rep build. My ultimate grail is coke bezel gmt, but I don't want to do one of those if I can't find a good reliable true gmt movement.

 

[Karbon74]

Best for you is to start with the JKF and do the Ruby just after.
If you do a good job, you will be able to sell the JKF. If you crash it, at worst you are 200€ out

This way you can know and feel for yourself the difference

 

[Mcqueen5513]

This is one of those "I know you are right" kinda things. Like when a buddy says he wants to buy a project car to start learning how to work on automotive things, and then suggests a plan for buying his dream vintage corvette for a first project. Leaving you to be the one to say "bud... lets get something cheap and easy to work on so that you can learn.

 

[Karbon74]

sometimes you want what you want. you just need to accept that the stakes are higher if you mess up

hobbies are like that.
Get into reps to save money, end up spending thousands on frankens