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Clean Factory 116613LB weighs like gen???/ Help almost got scammed!

KlendatuBug

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Everything ? As in, it doesn't exist ?



OK, I'll let Tudor know you think it's crap - it's all gen except for the insert. It was a restoration project, but it looks like Tudor really screwed up with those models.



You've given the wrong answer.The right answer is 'it's not possible to tell, with any degree of precision if a watch is genuine or rep from just one pic'.

Just as it's not possible to tell if a watch is gen or rep by looking at the clasp codes - the clasp codes used are also used by the genuine manufacturers - in fact, that's where the Chinese factories get their ref' codes, the genuine manufacturers.

Well, it's been fun, but I have things to do - you play nice with the others now, you hear ?

Ok without insulting you. The dial of that Tudor sub is clearly reworked/relumed, rather badly i might add.
As for the serial number clasp codes. You still don’t get it. Yes they used the clasp and serial numbers from ONE (yes only one) genuine watch. Then they use the same clasp code and the same serial code number range on ALL of their reps. You see where this is going? Exactly, it very very unlikely that you will ever come across a gen watch with both matching clasp code and serial number range from a known rep factory. It never happens! Ever! You understand the concept of randomness?
I’ve come across real ST9 and E5N clasps but never in combination with a matching serial number sequence. Its just math and probability, quite an easy concept.
 

Tucker

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Welcome to this forum..

"II love it again and again how the people here treat each other like naughty little brats. It seems that adults too have the phenomenon that as soon as they sit in front of their computer they forget their manners and their good upbringing.

Such people who answer such simple questions hopefully do not work in any service or service area and would, if they were so disrespectful in real life, receive a slap in the face pretty quickly or simply no longer have friends.

However, the courage is enough here to post a GIF or be cheeky.
Long live the internet: D



funfact: this posting is 1:1 copy from another posting of mine recently in another thread. Seems to be currently normal here"


If it's so bad, nasty, and disrespectful here why stay?
 
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ornateLover

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Fair enough. It wasn’t my intention to diminish your knowledge on watches rep or gen. The problem starts when one of your mods goes mayhem and keeps mocks justified means of authentication. I didn’t start the dick comparison, your moronator did and i still don’t have a clue what kind of derangement ultimately lead him to the conclusion that i am a noob who needs some schooling. Really disrespectful and unnecessary. Nowhere dif
i say that clasp codes, weight comparisons, etc. are the only means of authenticating a watch. I just said they are a reasonable start and if dawg disagrees i automatically think that he is either completely retarded or just doesn’t know his stuff. I mean there is just no wiggle room, my methods are sound, people rely on my expertise and when i say a watch is genuine, people usually start pulling out their wallets…

hey I’m sorry you are in this predicament. Maybe you can ask the people to stop relying on your expertise?
 

tripdog

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Welcome to this forum..

All of this seems to be upsetting you terribly.

RWI is universally accepted as being an incredible resource of information regarding genuine and replica watches. People with great knowledge of both replica and genuine watches have taken the time to share that knowledge on RWI in the form of tutorials, comparison and explanatory threads etc.

One of the reasons for this plethora of knowledgeable and informed posts and lack of inaccurate, ill-informed posts is that anybody posting crap is quickly shot down - it eliminates the possibility that false, inaccurate, incorrect information be passed off as correct, useful, precise.

One of the great things about the internet is that anybody can post anything and claim to be an expert - anybody can be a legend in their own mind. Our newly installed Professional Watch Authenticator for example, has told us that if you wish to establish the authenticity of a watch, then it's simply a case of checking your clasp code list.

This is simplifying things to a child like level, and is extremely poor advice. His knowledge is weak, approximate, inaccurate and at worst, dangerous.

Determining whether a watch is genuine or not is something best left to people who know what they're talking about - if you ask for advice, purchase a watch based on that advice and later discover you've been scammed, do you think you'll be able to take legal action against your advisor ?

Post ill-informed, inaccurate nonsense and you can expect to be called out - and ridiculed.

The OP is the one who started with the insults, he's the one who's tried to belittle and demean other members - and if you're that easily offended by some mocking GIF, then you really do have thin skin and RWI (and the internet) is no place for you.
 

KlendatuBug

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One of the great things about the internet is that anybody can post anything and claim to be an expert - anybody can be a legend in their own mind. Our newly installed Professional Watch Authenticator for example, has told us that if you wish to establish the authenticity of a watch, then it's simply a case of checking your clasp code list.

This is simplifying things to a child like level, and is extremely poor advice. His knowledge is weak, approximate, inaccurate and at worst, dangerous.

Ha! nice try simplifying my statements by taking my advice out of context. Way to go bro! Where exactly did i claim, that relying on clasp codes and serial numbers is the one and only way to authenticate a watch? Maybe you should actually read what i was trying to say.

Nowerdays codes and serial numbers are a good first step to find out if you possibly have a superclone in your hands. You are able to identify almost every high quality replica with the combination of clasp code and serial number. If both codes matches your (hopefully up to date and manually compiled list) your watch is 99,99999% replica. If the codes dont appear on your list you will have to do all the things which are necessary to make sure, that every fucking part of the watch is genuine. This takes a lot of time and experience. I want to know how many people would actually be able to identify a fake LV bezel inlay on a gen 116610LN. Or a TC 166610 case with a gen 3135 movement.

I mean you actually have to make that call! I am one of the few people who actually are able to make that determination and all i get is low quality fud from someone who obviously should know better

you are just childish. You lost the argument and instead of trying to add something valuable to the conversation you just create hostility with the sole intention to mock my advice.

Just step down from your high horse and realize that there are many ways to start authenticating a watch..

FFS…
 

tripdog

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The dial of that Tudor sub is clearly reworked/relumed, rather badly i might add.


I really didn't intend to reply to any more of your fatuous pap, but you really do have absolutely no idea what you're talking about.

The dial is all original, with the original tritium lume in place and in pretty good condition.

Stop posting, you're either high or delusional - and looking more and more like a fool, it's embarrassing, I'm embarrassed for you.
 
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KlendatuBug

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I really didn't intend to reply to any more of your fatuous pap, but you really do have absolutely no idea what you're talking about.

The dial is all original, with the original tritium lume in place and in pretty good condition.

Stop posting, you're either high or delusional - and looking more and more like a fool, it's embarrassing, I'm embarrassed for you.

Ok, did the albanian guy who sold you that dial tell you this? Because you are mistaken. You understand what the word mistaken actually means? Look at this. This is a genuine 79090 dial. Your dial is relumed, and quite frankly the guy who relumed your dial must be at least 4 fingers short on each hand.

Also, i clearly did not start the insult. In the very first reply i received in this forum, that guy called me a „knob jockey“. I even started apologizing for my initial post and that i didnt mean to troll. What did i get, yep.. even more insults. I really don’t give a fuck but please dont turn this around and blame me.

So stop flaming and start thinking once in a while…

 

KlendatuBug

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tripdog You are such a tool!

you remember this thread?:
this is the thread where you asked the guys at TRF about the condition of this very watch. Maybe, just maybe you shouldn’t have relied on one opinion prior to buying this watch. I now give you a second one since you clearly aren’t able authenticate a watch for yourself. Your dial is relumed! In reality, you don’t know shit and you have to rely on the opinions of others. I don’t even want to know, how many shill TRF accounts you use to leech expertise from people who actually know. You expertise is just like your watches: veeeerryyyy fake!

At least we know have some proof about this…
 
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StreetFighter

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So back on topic.. how did the scammer add weight to the 116613?

Just thinking out loud here, is there any space inside the caseback to add a disc or even a washer of say, lead, and there still be space for the rotor to do it's spinning thing?
 

KlendatuBug

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..or could the rotor itself be replicated in a heavy metal?

I really dont think so. As i said before i am pretty sure that that guy just used genuine 116613lb parts on that CF replica. There is just no other feasible way.

I’d also imagine that manipulating the watch with some foreign weights would make watch noticeably top heavy. This wasn’t the case with this watch.

All things considered I’d say that the frankening is the best bet. After all the watch was still short 2 grams ( even with the plastics still on, hahhaha
 

pistebasher

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So back on topic.. how did the scammer add weight to the 116613?

Just thinking out loud here, is there any space inside the caseback to add a disc or even a washer of say, lead, and there still be space for the rotor to do it's spinning thing?

Not enough to make a difference. Gold is much denser than lead.

The 8 Densest Metals:
  1. Osmium 22.6 g/cm^3.
  2. Iridium 22.4 g/cm^3. ...
  3. Platinum 21.45 g/cm^3. ...
  4. Neptunium 20.2 g/cm^3. ...
  5. Plutonium 19.84 g/cm^3. ...
  6. Tungsten 19.35 g/cm^3. ...
  7. Gold 19.32 g/cm^3. ...
  8. Uranium 18.95 g/cm^3. ...
As you can see, gold is fricking dense.
 
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tripdog

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tripdog You are such a tool!

you remember this thread?:

this is the thread where you asked the guys at TRF about the condition of this very watch. Maybe, just maybe you shouldn’t have relied on one opinion prior to buying this watch. I now give you a second one since you clearly aren’t able authenticate a watch for yourself. Your dial is relumed! In reality, you don’t know shit and you have to rely on the opinions of others. I don’t even want to know, how many shill TRF accounts you use to leech expertise from people who actually know. You expertise is just like your watches: veeeerryyyy fake!

At least we know have some proof about this…

Enough.

That's not me posting on TRF you imbecile.

Time to put you out of your misery.
 

Cicero

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That gentleman was truly lost. He didn't even have the correct country for Tripdog. A true dimwit.
 
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StreetFighter

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I really dont think so. As i said before i am pretty sure that that guy just used genuine 116613lb parts on that CF replica. There is just no other feasible way.

I’d also imagine that manipulating the watch with some foreign weights would make watch noticeably top heavy. This wasn’t the case with this watch.

All things considered I’d say that the frankening is the best bet. After all the watch was still short 2 grams ( even with the plastics still on, hahhaha

Gotcha. It's potentially been something along those lines. It's not unheard of for a scammer to mix the parts of a genuine and a rep watch to make 2 frankens and selling both as gen.