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The mighty Oceanographic 4000 (beginners review)
- Thread starter santre22
- Start date
Decorated movement? That was unexpected
How about the movement of seconds hand? Smooth or rather choppy one (non regular steps)?
So far I can see only one flaw (except slightly different lume, as mentioned here) cheaper method of crown protection replication. The protection of 2'o clock crown consists of two elements, a clamp and a ring. Look at the gen:
On a gen, the clamp "eats" into the ring; it doesn't look the same on our rep...
This thing i missed. The crown guard is a 2 pice construction that can be separated so i guess to mod this is not hard if have a little piece of titanium rod and acces to a lathe. Make a new ring slightly bigger but same shape and file out room in the clamp before resoldering it together. Could work :maty:
Also what about the other rubber/textile strap it would be a killer if any one replicate it. I will sure buy it for big bucks then
I'm getting mine overhauled at the moment... I wonder what kind of movement mine has. Also hope it's water resistant. Will let you guys know in about 2 weeks.
Is there a recommended way to open the H-screws without scratching the black finish and without using an "H-screw driver"?
Decorated movement? That was unexpected
How about the movement of seconds hand? Smooth or rather choppy one (non regular steps)?...
Today i temporary fixed the second hands choppy sweeping by replace the chronograph wheel friction with the gen ETA7750 spare part. (manuals are on ETAs website) and also adjust the oscillating pinion to get right deep between teeth on it and the second wheel.
I also oiled the rotor bearing so it winds easy and quiet.
Really nice result for now untill i find the topgrade Swiss 7750 i want.
Soon I just have to find a HBB to compare with i think my friend have one and i meet him next week.
I use a smal pice of Amber Polyimide Protection Tape used to protect when polishing. Put it over the screw with a few mm over the edges and then use a H-screwdriver and no scratching at all.
Sexy watch! Wrist shot please!
This bad boy is a beast!!! Frickin' ate my wrist!!! Sorry for the bad pic... all I got for now.
Next to the PAM177
- 29/1/11
- 1,599
- 145
- 63
- 29/1/11
- 1,599
- 145
- 63
santre22, based on the parts you changed out and adjusted, am I correct in that the 7750 in the V6 diver is modified by having the normal running (small) second hand at 9:00 removed, with the large center chronograph second hand always engaged/running ? If so that would worry me about long term reliability... I wish they had used the ETA 2824-2 (like the earlier version) instead even though it is less like the gen movement.
Thanks for the review. I have to have one of these silly things.
Although- Is this the same watch and factory as puretime have just released?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Although- Is this the same watch and factory as puretime have just released?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just the video I took this morning, to show how it wears on my wrist. I have quite a big hand, as You can see I am using 2nd hole on the strap...
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mEN9YtTMCoo"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mEN9YtTMCoo[/ame]
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mEN9YtTMCoo"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mEN9YtTMCoo[/ame]
about the watch:
- pay attention to the bezel screws - they were not tightened!
- seconds hand is indeed choppy. I will apply a trick with changing of chrono seconds wheel to ETA one and we will see
- bezel operations are problematic - it tends to get stuck in a specific position - will try to determine the problem when dealing with seconds wheel as mentioned above
So.. just typical QC problems - looks good so OK maybe we will have to force TD to do QC videos from how watch operates
Question: what happen if all the screws on the bezel would be removed? Does it hold sapphire? Or just whole bezel is a cosmetic thing?
Considered above can be fixed - it is one great rep! Do not hesitate.
- pay attention to the bezel screws - they were not tightened!
- seconds hand is indeed choppy. I will apply a trick with changing of chrono seconds wheel to ETA one and we will see
- bezel operations are problematic - it tends to get stuck in a specific position - will try to determine the problem when dealing with seconds wheel as mentioned above
So.. just typical QC problems - looks good so OK maybe we will have to force TD to do QC videos from how watch operates
Question: what happen if all the screws on the bezel would be removed? Does it hold sapphire? Or just whole bezel is a cosmetic thing?
Considered above can be fixed - it is one great rep! Do not hesitate.
When you change secondwheel and its friction gasket be carefull when you put the dail and movement back so the index not touch the bezel if they do the bezel get scratch i had to repaint mine on a small edge of the bezel. Also the crown removal is critical i had to take apart whole movement and reassemble again to get the winding/date/time funktion to work smooth again.
Thank You for tips - I will take care about these details.
What about external bezel? What happen when unscrew all 6 H-screws? Does it hold sapphire or what? I am asking because most of these screws were not tightened on my watch - does it affect water resistance?
The H-screws only hold the titanium part of the bezel. the crystal is GLUED :frusty: to the main part of the case, no crystal gasket what i can se.. maby this is why it pass 100m water resist easy...
This is not good cause i want to take it appart to clean the crystal and inner bezel system to run smooth... i dont have any idea to remove the crystal, heating is not an option cause i will damage the inner bezel..
Thank You for this info. I will approach my rep friendly local watchsmith to mod this watch a bit:
- replace seconds wheel to an ETA one, adjust friction wheel etc. to make it smooth
- try to repair bezel
In case of my bezel - I can rotate it for most of the time but there is "5 minute" part I almost cannot rotate it - looks like gear is only barely touching bezel's teeth or something like that. I want to provide my watchsmith with all the tips to help him repair it - like "be carefull when installing the dial since indexes can scratch bezel" and so on...
Maybe, since You saw what's inside in case of bezel - there are any hints you can provide?
Wow.. please confirm when your replace movements since I heard the hands/dial are not considered the same between gen ETA 7750 and A7750. Maybe it is a myth only... Anyway, awaiting my diver, QC photos already accepted
Now i got a ETA 7750 elabore grade (425$ from ebay) its not new but in good condition (small scratches on bridges).
So i started mod the movment (remove chronograp, etc.)
There was a few mods to some parts i had to do for making the movement work with the dial and hands.
1. The sec wheel at 9 was moded by cutting the pin and edges was polishing to make it turn smooth.
2. All unnecessary chronograph parts was removed. (the cam, arms pusher springs, hour and minute counter wheels and so on)
3. The minute pinion and hour wheel was taken from the A7750 to ensure the fit of the hands and because they is silver plated (swiss was brass colour). the minute pinion was to tight so it was drilled about 0.15 mm wider to fit well.
4. The center sec pin was grinded against a fine stone to get it about 0.05mm smaller to get the sec hand fit (asian pin is smaller)
5. the asian bridges instead of the cam was ad to the swiss movement.
6. the Day disc and unnecessary wheels on dial side was removed.
Now when the movement fits well and run i will take it apart again and do a full service to get more accurate time keeping.
So there are still 4 asian parts on the movement 2 wheels, 1 bridge and the rotor but these does not affect the time keeping when running.
I also have dissected the case in molecules to clean it proper. and the case components is very well manufactured.
Over all the case and movement had a lot of dust and dirt on it when came from the factory. Not much but to much for a swiss hublot thats why i cleaning it
My biggest problem now is the 3 parts: main case, inner bezel and crystal that i cant take apart because crystal is glued... and i had some small dust fibres on inside of the glas that the compressed air dont remove and the rodico makes greasy stains on the inside AR...
Big thank you for such detailed info!
Just a question refering to your #4: when doing replacement of center seconds wheel from Asian to ETA version - I will have to grind a tip of ETA pin, I suppose. That mentioned 0.05mm, right?
About particles / fibers etc hard to remove - try do get photographic duster - a rubber ball with a soft brush. When you squeeze it and brush at the same time - it works
Something like this:
Since you disassembled the watch: what is your opinion about the total weight of the watch? There are people claiming the gen is MUCH lighter. So, what can you suggest about the weight of the rep? Not quite titanium? Only some titanium pieces and the rest steel?