I was scrolling through some local Chinese second hand website, and found a vintage 2824/Raffles style case. Was curious about it and saw this was stamped on the inside of the case back:
I have a few 36mm DJ type cases with this case back and they are about 20 years old, if not more. Some of the cases were higher quality with a case clamp groove and some did not have the clamp groove. Most were made for DG 28xx movements or ETA 2836 and the SH**** case back you saw may or may not be original to the case
Does anyone know which day date bezels fit the 16013 and 16233? I see 18038 bezels stating they fit the 16013 (but not the 16233) even though that DD-reference has the sapphire crystal…
The case necks on all 16xx, 160xx, and 162xx cases are the same OD as are the 36mmm DDs. The main difference in the bezels is some are taller than others with the bezels made for acrylic crystals not being quite as tall as sapphire bezels. Usually. No guarantees with all the parts swapping going on.
If a solid gold bezel seems to be too tight when pressing it down over an acrylic crystal or sapphire crystal gasket, stop! and make sure the bezel is level and then be careful because a gold bezel can snap! in two. That is why you see gold bezels for sale that have been soldered back together with laser welded bezels usually ending up looking better than heat soldered bezels.
Another reason for broken solid gold bezels is a flimsy bezel press or press cups that allow the bezel to get out of level. With steel bezels, the results of a flimsy bezel press or out of spec aftmkt crystal is usually just a cracked crystal (acrylic) or ruined crystal gasket (sapphire), although I have seen cracked top edges on sapphire crystals caused this way.
I have stuck quite a few DJ projects together over the years and had the best luck with Swiss ETA 28xx movements, 3135 date wheels (oem or quality aftmkt), and oem spec or genuine cases with genuine dials, crystals, and crowns, although sticking the 3135 date wheel over the ETA date wheel can be a real hassle by the time it is finished imho.
Having close fitting (metal) movement spacers with case clamps and screws will (usually) prevent 'dial edge scuffing' caused by the movement/dial sliding when setting the date etc. Another cause of 'dial scuffing' is the dial being too small for the dial seat in the case, allowing room for the dial to move.
My favorite DJs are the early models with 'pie pan' dials.
Cheapo DJ project watch down near the bottom of the thread with genuine 'engine turned' bezel...
https://rwg.cc/topic/187497- rolex-wristies-thread/page/139/#google_vignette
Cheapo project DJ at the bottom of the thread with 14K bezel...
https://rwg.cc/topic/187497- rolex-wristies-thread/page/143/
Some DJ etc. case info...
https://rwg.cc/topic/197775- genuine-16220-case-vs-replica-16200-case/
Close the gaps.
Amc is also J3. Long story.
Typos are free.
I have a few 36mm DJ type cases with this case back and they are about 20 years old, if not more. Some of the cases were higher quality with a case clamp groove and some did not have the clamp groove. Most were made for DG 28xx movements or ETA 2836 and the SH**** case back you saw may or may not be original to the case
Does anyone know which day date bezels fit the 16013 and 16233? I see 18038 bezels stating they fit the 16013 (but not the 16233) even though that DD-reference has the sapphire crystal…
The case necks on all 16xx, 160xx, and 162xx cases are the same OD as are the 36mmm DDs. The main difference in the bezels is some are taller than others with the bezels made for acrylic crystals not being quite as tall as sapphire bezels. Usually. No guarantees with all the parts swapping going on.
If a solid gold bezel seems to be too tight when pressing it down over an acrylic crystal or sapphire crystal gasket, stop! and make sure the bezel is level and then be careful because a gold bezel can snap! in two. That is why you see gold bezels for sale that have been soldered back together with laser welded bezels usually ending up looking better than heat soldered bezels.
Another reason for broken solid gold bezels is a flimsy bezel press or press cups that allow the bezel to get out of level. With steel bezels, the results of a flimsy bezel press or out of spec aftmkt crystal is usually just a cracked crystal (acrylic) or ruined crystal gasket (sapphire), although I have seen cracked top edges on sapphire crystals caused this way.
I have stuck quite a few DJ projects together over the years and had the best luck with Swiss ETA 28xx movements, 3135 date wheels (oem or quality aftmkt), and oem spec or genuine cases with genuine dials, crystals, and crowns, although sticking the 3135 date wheel over the ETA date wheel can be a real hassle by the time it is finished imho.
Having close fitting (metal) movement spacers with case clamps and screws will (usually) prevent 'dial edge scuffing' caused by the movement/dial sliding when setting the date etc. Another cause of 'dial scuffing' is the dial being too small for the dial seat in the case, allowing room for the dial to move.
My favorite DJs are the early models with 'pie pan' dials.
Cheapo DJ project watch down near the bottom of the thread with genuine 'engine turned' bezel...
https://rwg.cc/topic/187497- rolex-wristies-thread/page/139/#google_vignette
Cheapo project DJ at the bottom of the thread with 14K bezel...
https://rwg.cc/topic/187497- rolex-wristies-thread/page/143/
Some DJ etc. case info...
https://rwg.cc/topic/197775- genuine-16220-case-vs-replica-16200-case/
Close the gaps.
Amc is also J3. Long story.
Typos are free.
