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BP Sea-Dweller 16600 re-release with VR3135

fra44

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When choosing a 5-digits Sub, which one would you favor between this BP 16600 SD or the ARF 16610 Sub? I know that both require modifications - the Sea-Dweller in the case and the Sub Date needs a better movement and a click spring for the bezel (if I understood correctly).

With that said what's the best deal out of the two in terms of value for money, accuracy to Gen, and so on?

@flashu I think you own both, would you mind sharing your opinion on this?
 

flashu

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@flashu I think you own both, would you mind sharing your opinion on this?

I have the BP 16610 and 16600 - not ARF16610 :)

As you know 16610 ARF and BP are different in many ways so I cannot help you here.
 

bowtiefanatc

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When choosing a 5-digits Sub, which one would you favor between this BP 16600 SD or the ARF 16610 Sub? I know that both require modifications - the Sea-Dweller in the case and the Sub Date needs a better movement and a click spring for the bezel (if I understood correctly).

With that said what's the best deal out of the two in terms of value for money, accuracy to Gen, and so on?

@flashu I think you own both, would you mind sharing your opinion on this?

So, today I’d rather have an ARF sub because the BP SD is not nearly as good as the older ones.


 
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fra44

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8/10/23
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So, today I’d rather have an ARF sub because the BP SD is not nearly as good as the older ones.


Wow mate, that's an insane collection!!

Would you rather have an ARF even if I have a skilled modder trim the lugs and the crownguards of the new BP Sea Dweller? Sorry if I insist, I am just trying to get as much information as I can before I spend money haha
 
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bowtiefanatc

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I love my old SD, and it’s one that won’t be leaving my collection.

I actually plan on building some subs with the Silian cases this year.

I have a newer 16600 case coming from a friend. I plan on doing a 16660 rep with that one.
 

fra44

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8/10/23
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I love my old SD, and it’s one that won’t be leaving my collection.

I actually plan on building some subs with the Silian cases this year.

I have a newer 16600 case coming from a friend. I plan on doing a 16660 rep with that one.
These are some great projects, and tbh I would be very interested in seeing them once you complete! Especially the 16660.

But if you didn't have neither a SD nor a Date Sub right now, considering the current versions - would you get the BP SD or the ARF Sub?
 

bowtiefanatc

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That’s a tough one. Between newer SD and ARF is choose ARF.

If it was older SD and ARF I’d choose SD.

The newer SD not having the right lugs or CG or Bezel construction or even bracelet and clasp is a bit of a downer.
 
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Everett270

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These are some great projects, and tbh I would be very interested in seeing them once you complete! Especially the 16660.

But if you didn't have neither a SD nor a Date Sub right now, considering the current versions - would you get the BP SD or the ARF Sub?
Have you looked at the new BP 16610 thread? That seems like the best bargain right now as it sounds like you just want a 5-dgiti and aren't sold on a SD.
 
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Everett270

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BP subs aren’t bad, but I personally much prefer the ARF.

I have a BP Bluesy that is great.
I haven't had either, just the 16600 and JF 16610, so I have no hands-on experience, but it seems the BP at ~300 with the VR movement is a pretty great value compared to the ARF at ~500 with an SH. It also seems the latest batch from ARF is getting a bit worse (lume mismatch on the LV and incorrect flush sel) while the BP is getting better, even if it isn't constructed like gen. In my opinion, it goes into the value versus potential accuracy. The ARF has an advantage for the latter, but I believe the BP to be the better value.

Of course we all know how much importance the subjective "feel" of a watch has, and if the newer ARF has it compared to the BP, then that's all it needs. I'd be curious to hear if so.
 

bowtiefanatc

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Sorry if the question is a bit of a noob one, but what does it mean?

The older BP used a more gen like construction using a small click spring. The newer ones I believe use the large wire for the clicks.

You also typically have to shave down a Gen insert to fit it into a BP bezel.
 

fra44

You're Saying I Can Sell?
8/10/23
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Have you looked at the new BP 16610 thread? That seems like the best bargain right now as it sounds like you just want a 5-dgiti and aren't sold on a SD.
No tbh, I just read that ARF is very good and I automatically assumed it's better than BP when it comes to the Date Sub.

Ideally I would be sold on the SD, as I prefer the watch with no cyclops, but I am also trying to get a watch that is as close as possible to gen. Not to pass it off as gen, just for my own peace of mind.

Modding a SD is 400 euros from a trusted modder and I don't mind spending it if I can get a very good result close to gen. But he can't mod the glass unfortunately. So this pushed me to check out ARF, but did my homework and found out that it also needs mods
 

bowtiefanatc

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I haven't had either, just the 16600 and JF 16610, so I have no hands-on experience, but it seems the BP at ~300 with the VR movement is a pretty great value compared to the ARF at ~500 with an SH. It also seems the latest batch from ARF is getting a bit worse (lume mismatch on the LV and incorrect flush sel) while the BP is getting better, even if it isn't constructed like gen. In my opinion, it goes into the value versus potential accuracy. The ARF has an advantage for the latter, but I believe the BP to be the better value.

Of course we all know how much importance the subjective "feel" of a watch has, and if the newer ARF has it compared to the BP, then that's all it needs. I'd be curious to hear if so.

If you just want an out of the box solid wearing watch. Go BP (better bang for your buck).

If you want to Franken even at some point, go ARF
 

Everett270

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Ideally I would be sold on the SD, as I prefer the watch with no cyclops, but I am also trying to get a watch that is as close as possible to gen. Not to pass it off as gen, just for my own peace of mind.
From my experience, the newer 16600 with polished sides to the bracelet and a new insert is pretty good. To be 99% there, yes it needs some other things, but you'll really only know if it's tolerable when you have it on the wrist. Might as well buy it to see, you'll be able to get 95% of your money back if it turns out you can't deal with the issues, and if you love the feel you'll feel better about further mods.
 

flashu

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Ideally I would be sold on the SD, as I prefer the watch with no cyclops, but I am also trying to get a watch that is as close as possible to gen. Not to pass it off as gen, just for my own peace of mind.

Buy the watch you like as your eyes will see it every time you look on your wrist.
Trust me no one will notice your SD as is guess what - no cyclops - and even will notice you are wearing an old reference which is no longer in production for some time and close enough to gen for what it is

If you like the sd get it don’t overthink

I don’t care about ARF vs BP but I do care for VR movement and price difference
 

bowtiefanatc

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I do agree with @flashu that the majority of people won’t know.

Just depends on your level of neuroticism or OCD ;)
 
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