Hello i'm new here and i got my first reps QC pictures and the amplitude of the watch is 328 isn't that very high. Should i RL?
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Amplitude of watch
- Thread starter breadise
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Last edited:
Seems a bit high, but you're giving absolutely zero context.
What movement is this?
What are the other timegrapher values?
Oh yeah ofc sorry. The watch is CF 126622 Yatch-master with VR3235 movement. 28,800 bph. Lift 52 degrees. Period 12s. Rate 1s/d. And some other number that says 0.0ms
Also, you need to consider the charge of the main spring. Was the watch fully wound? If so, and if the other numbers are fine, this is IMHO not really a reason for concern.
Plus those timegrapher photos can be very misleading because they are just a momentary snapshot of the movement in a single position with the same charge in the mainspring.
Plus those timegrapher photos can be very misleading because they are just a momentary snapshot of the movement in a single position with the same charge in the mainspring.
- 24/12/11
- 67,017
- 18,740
- 113
hi amplitude is really not a problem unless you encounter pin banking (or knocking) which can be seen on the timegrapher trace as irregular dots outside the timing trace
Okay, i don't know if it was fully wound. So if it was fully wound the amplitude goes higher?
And thank you for help. I was just concerned because there is visually nothing wrong in the watch and quickly searched the amplitude thing.
So nothing to worry about and GL atleast for the timergraph numbers?
That looks fine to me. I personally would probably GL.
There you go. With @Raddave, an actual pro chimed in.
I'm switching from "probably GL" to "definitely GL".
Okay thank you!There you go. With @Raddave, an actual pro chimed in.
I'm switching from "probably GL" to "definitely GL".
Yeah, the way I understand it, the amplitude is sort of the "heartbeat" of your watch. The lower it is, the less accurate the timekeeping will be. So a high amplitude is what a watchmaker will be aiming for. However a too high one will cause the banking effect @Raddave described.
Typically, amplitude is measured with the mainspring fully wound and in a variety of positions. For example, in a dial up position, the amplitude measured will be higher than in a dial down position.
You need to understand the timegrapher photo you receive in QC simply as proof that the watch works, not as a detailed and accurate technical analysis. It's pointless to obsess over the values you see because, like I said, they are only a temporary snapshot in a single position.
What could be added would be that fundamental to the 3135 movement (the VR3235 is basically a 3135 and not a real 3235 superclone like the VS movement) that the amplitude is higher than that of a "real" 3235. It's absolutely fine. The knocking/hitting would be seen on the timegrapher as @Raddave mentioned. 52 degrees of lift angle is correct for the 3135 (or VR3235).
1. Replica movements are very different depending on the situation compared to the gen movements
2. A watch that is fully (fully!) wound up and runs precisely with the dial at the top, can already (displayed) run 5s/24h too slowly after half an hour like @eBoy mentioned basicly.
In the end, what counts (especially for reps) is the effective when you wear the watch. The QC is showing that the movement works.
In the end, what counts (especially for reps) is the effective when you wear the watch. The QC is showing that the movement works.
Exactly. Noobs really don't need to obsess over the values seen in QC timegrapher shots. They don't have the relevance that you may think they have. Not in just a snapshot they do...
But I can totally relate to the newbies' worries. As a total noob (I once was and still am one, just maybe without the "total"), who doesn't yet have any real idea of what any of these values truly mean, those photos of your watch hooked to a machine, giving it the appearance of it being in a coma in an ICU or so, can be quite intimidating.
But the actual purpose of it is quite unspectacular and rather boring: It's just a proof that it works, SOMEWHAT within acceptable specs.
Nothing more, nothing less.
PS: Plus, noobs cannot possibly grasp the intricacies of the differences of rep movements vs gen movements, so like @derjenigewelcher absolutely correctly implied, trying to for example look up the gen values of a respective watch model as a reference to compare them to the values of a rep QC is especially pointless, because there's an almost 100% chance that the "in spec" values of both the movement used in the gen and in the rep will not even be comparable AT ALL.
Overthinking stock reps is the biggest obstacle and enemy on the way to enjoying stock reps!
Overthinking stock reps is the biggest obstacle and enemy on the way to enjoying stock reps!
Just buy from TD, wear till it busts, then either sell busted and buy new, or let it fix.
And carry on wearing.
Or, like me, regulate and check every new watch, brush bracelet in genspec, oil and ultrasonic clean, check waterproof, and just treat them like they are your baby.
And carry on wearing.
Or, like me, regulate and check every new watch, brush bracelet in genspec, oil and ultrasonic clean, check waterproof, and just treat them like they are your baby.
Or, like me, regulate and check every new watch, brush bracelet in genspec, oil and ultrasonic clean, check waterproof, and just treat them like they are your baby.
